Jacob6875

2006 MT with 54k miles

I was driving back from work today on the interstate and my car just shut off. After I pulled over I restarted it again and it seemed to run fine for a coupe mins then lost all power and died. Started it up a third time and was running fine again for a few more mins but it once again lost power and sounded like it was running rough. Like a normal engine if only some on the cylinders were working. Then check engine light started flashing.

Any ideas? Never had an issue with the car in 4 years. Always started fine etc. it just all of a sudden seemed to just break.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Is it shutting off at idle? or under load at higher RPM?

Jacob6875

Both. It dies if I try to let it idle. It also does when driving. Acts like it had no power and can't maintain speed.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Do each of these, checking to see if the problem clears after each:
1: Clean the ESS and reset the profile.
2: Test the ignition coils, wires, and plugs
3: Get a compression test

If it didn't do it at idle, but only while driving, I'd say fuel pump failure, and only at idle but not while driving implies compression loss, except if it was severe loss suddenly, like seals suddenly failed, but there are several key symptoms for sudden seal failure that you haven't mentioned. I'm guessing that something got stuck to the ESS magnet and it's screwing things up all over the place, or you had a sudden coil failure.

Jacob6875

Here is a video from my Dashcam of the 4th or 5th time it quit working. Runs fine until 1/2 way through the video....... then well listen to it.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so not really a constant problem, it's intermittant or delayed.

That suggests it's not a problem that would be persistent all the time, like a compression problem or a complete coil failure. So clean the e-shaft sensor, reset the sensor profile (20-brake-pedal-stomp method), and check your plug wires on the plug ends. Make sure they are secure. If they are secure, disconnect them one at a time and pull the corresponding plug to inspect. There have been a few timres where the plug itself has failed internally somehow, like a cracked housing or the central core separated from the threaded base, etc... If the plugs all inspect fine, then ohm test the wires to see what resistance they are at. Then spark test the coils with a $5 ignition tester (local auto parts store, looks like a spark plug with a clamp on the side).

If those all test fine, then hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if you can replicate the problem and see if you are getting a fuel pressure drop, which would indicate a fuel pump failure.

Karack

could be a faulty pump but they usually only have issues in hot weather versus cold.

Jacob6875

So to update people (if anyone cares :D). The Mazda dealership says both the plugs / coils / wires are bad and also the Catalytic converter needs to be replaced.

I am running into an interesting issue though. My car was registered in December of 2006 which means it should be covered until December of this year for the Catalytic converter. However they are telling me that originally the car was built to meet California Emissions standards so therefore only has a 7 year 70k warranty instead of an 8 year 80k warranty so it isn't covered.

Anyone have any experience with this? Bizarre that it randomly has a lower warranty because it's built for California.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The dealership doesn't have their information right.

The 7yr 70,000 California warranty runs in parallel to the Federal 8yr 80,000 warranty. As in, for the first 7yrs and 70k, you are covered by both. Then only the Federal for the next 1yr 10,000, and after that, nothing.

They are just trying to keep from having to pay up on the warranty. Bring them the EPA document and/or complain to MNAO and they shouldn't resist. They can't legally deny you and they know it (or they are idiots for not understanding the laws that they operate under).

Jacob6875

Thanks for the conformation I called Mazda USA but when they tried to contact the dealer they left a message due to them not answering the phone so they are supposedly going to get back to me whenever the dealership calls them back.

Edit: They now told me they are going to try and cover it under warranty (after he called his district manager). They claim the problem was that my VIN was entered into the system incorrectly or something.