broke mazsport ppf
01-13-2009, 04:24 PM
#2
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Maybe ditch that piece and go to a solid, non-welded piece of bar stock and machine the ends. Would be heavy but strong.
Approximately how much power were you putting to the ground when this happened?
Approximately how much power were you putting to the ground when this happened?
01-13-2009, 04:29 PM
#3
Put on the stock one for a while and see how long it lasts. Machining a new one that will meet above-stock specs is very hard.. so better go back to stock and see what happens before thrashing money again 
01-13-2009, 05:37 PM
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The problem with this particular design is that; 1) it is using thin-wall tubing, and, 2) it doesn't control the oscillating forces generated by the transmission's output shaft, which occur at the same time as vertical forces from the rear diff are also present. I have had this idea in my head for 5 years and............
01-14-2009, 08:53 AM
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Back to your original questions...
If you're just planning on re-welding it, is add more bracing at the point of connection on the right-hand side of that photo. Put in a web brace, welded to the two tubes and again to the bracket. That will make it a whole lot more solid at that connection; essentially those tubes weren't broken off by shear; they were twisted off. A good web brace in there will prevent the twisting at that point and prevent that from happening.
However, the twisting motion is still pretty severe, it seems, and you may not really be able to prevent another failure without going with a thicker tube, or a stronger metal. These particular tubes show they can't withstand the twisting, and even if you firm up the connection at the bracket, that twisting is still happening; the failure point will just move farther down the tube away from the bracket, eventually. Start thinking about either a thicker tube (say 3/16" wall) or a stronger metal (DOM or Chromoly)
If you're just planning on re-welding it, is add more bracing at the point of connection on the right-hand side of that photo. Put in a web brace, welded to the two tubes and again to the bracket. That will make it a whole lot more solid at that connection; essentially those tubes weren't broken off by shear; they were twisted off. A good web brace in there will prevent the twisting at that point and prevent that from happening.
However, the twisting motion is still pretty severe, it seems, and you may not really be able to prevent another failure without going with a thicker tube, or a stronger metal. These particular tubes show they can't withstand the twisting, and even if you firm up the connection at the bracket, that twisting is still happening; the failure point will just move farther down the tube away from the bracket, eventually. Start thinking about either a thicker tube (say 3/16" wall) or a stronger metal (DOM or Chromoly)
01-14-2009, 03:36 PM
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I'll have it re-welded for now so i can drive it at least, and see about getting extra bracing like you described.
Could the diff just be connected to the frame nearby instead?
Could the diff just be connected to the frame nearby instead?
01-15-2009, 11:21 AM
#13
Haven't you got your stock one? even with the extra braces you could buy it would still be a weak\garbage PPF.
Looking at the pictures i don't really know how this could be meant and sold as a "performance" upgrade.
Looking at the pictures i don't really know how this could be meant and sold as a "performance" upgrade.
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