mryoshi

I have a 05' with 65,000 miles.
It died on me while driving down the freeway.
Had it towed to dealer.
They are telling me that it has zero compression...

They are also telling me they are going to deny the warranty claim unless I can furnish Itemized invoices to prove I did the maintenance. I do all my own maintenance.

I did not keep they receipts for parts I purchased... Kind of pissing me off, because if you open the hood of my car or luck under neath it anywhere you will not find a single thing you would think was not very well maintained. I am very qualified to do this work. I have passed all of A.S.E and used to work in motorcycle industry as service manger, mechanic, and even did some super bike work.

What I want to know is.
Does it say in writing with the documentation that comes with the car that you must retain maintenance receipts or your warranty will not be honored?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Sorry buddy, gotta keep those receipts. This is from the extended engine warranty.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5227222148/
Time to take a $100.00 to the nearest mechanic shop in the shady part of town

s.sidhu23

Fawk, this sucks. I bought my car second hand and I'm going to get a compression test before the end of the year and if it fails, and they ask me for receipts, I got them since 80k kms and its at 90k as of now! Wonder if they'll cover..
I do all my work on my own but keep OEM filter/oil receipts.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Your only required to prove up receipts since you have owned it, they usually won't hassle you for receipts from before you owned it unless the previous owner was told by the same dealer it was failing before you bought it. Also make copies of the register recipients because they will fade over time.

mryoshi

I looked up all the records on my bank statements and found the purchases I made at pep boys etc
Gonna see if by some miracle they can bring up those old receipts based off my credit card....
Dont think I am going to have Santa Monica Mazda do my work if it's not warranty (assuming I don't just dump it get something else). I called Tri Point Engineering for second opppinion and sm Mazda had just called him for advice... lol
Those receipts would show royal purple btw...

ZoomieZoom

I had same warranty issues back in the day with my 1998 Dodge Durango that 318 was a piece of crap. Anywho after about 25,000 miles my oil pressure dropped to zero and check engine light came on. Had it towed to stealership and was surprised to get a call back saying main bearing was warped and needed new engine then they started asking for reciepts beause if not they were going to void the warranty for neglect due to excessive oil sludge in the pan even though i changed oil every 3000 miles. Anywho I found thousands of consumer posts on web of people describing the same exact problem i had. i printed the whole stack and took it to the stealership and argued my case/ long story short i got my engine. So you can potentially get around it if your a big enough pain. Also if you have a military base around tell them your in the military and talking with legal on base and that legal is looking into having the dealership blacklisted for the base. Its a complete BS bluff, but that was the final tipping point to get chrysler to pay in the end. Hope that helps!!!

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Some dealers are good about this kind of stuff and some will jerk you around. But having receipts with Royal Purple on them won't help even though the owners manual for you car only stated that synthetic is not recommended, it does not say that using it is forbidden and will void your warranty. keep that in mind, they have since revised the owners manual and I believe it does say specifically to not use synthetic now.

I got my my last engine at 96,000 and they were not happy about it but I was able to provide receipts

mryoshi

Yea it only matters what the manual that came with my car says.

shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

use mazdausa (maintenence section, free to register) to input all your receipts and mileage next time.. that way its all right there in black in white, on their own website. They didnt argue a thing when i showed them all my oil receipts and documentation on there.

PearlStorm

As in you ran synthetic? You have the OMP block off done?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Well Royal Purple is synthetic so what do you think? OMP block off? You mean the SOHN adapter?

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

I always bring mine to dealer for oil change, only.
I do other maintenance somewhere else or myself.
It's a bit more, but with free car wash and having them keep my record, I think it's worth it, imho.
And always go with coupon.

xexok

Yes dealer oil changes are stupid cheap, but you also have to suffer and use the 5w20 oil they provide. Out here my Mazda dealer sells oil changes in packs, I think it is 5 or 6 oil changes for $69.99 which beats any DIY price out there. I would rather do my own so I could use the oil I want and it ends up costing me $10 for the filter and another $20-22 for the oil needed.

Lyssayn

I'm the 2nd owner on an '04 A/T with 47K miles and just had a new engine put in last week. I took it to a local mechanic who had it apart for 3 days and ended up sending me to a dealer for tests Mazda had to run.

1 day at the dealer = diagnosis of compression issues and a prescription for a new engine. The dealer just suggested the replacement, I didn't ask, and they told me it was still under warranty. Mazda extended the warranty on the rotary to 8 years and 100,000 miles which covered me.

They didn't ask for any paperwork, documentation of maintenance, nothing. Just got me a rental at their cost, kept the car for 10 days while waiting for engine to come in, and sent me on my way.

Hope this helps - let me know if I can provide you anything that might help you at the dealership.

Now having the coolant light and motor mount issues found on myriad threads here... Might be posting my own "help me out" thread soon!

RX8RX7

OMP block off is a thing for S4 and older guys. (or S5 RX-7 with chipped ECU that delete the OMP fault code) it basically a piece of metal that blocks the part where the OMP sits (OMP completely removed)

so easy to do on S4 and older Rotary engines, cuz they use a Mechanical OMP that's based on throttle (load), later Rx-7 (s5 and S6) can still be done, just remove the code in ECU (Chipped), remove OMP, put the plate in place, Premix. done.

I like how some RX-7 guys just keep bsing about how bad synthetic is : when most of them have no idea why. all they can bring up is "oh, incomplete burn" but they just can't explain further. worst is, a Crappy "MINERAL" oil is just as bad as a BAD SYNTHETIC oil. It's all about the additives. want to talk about based oil? funny so a Group II JUNK (which what Mineral oil is based on) is better than III, IV, and V. Oh yeah.

RX8RX7

question : what Filter u got that cost 10 bux? a good WiX filter cost 5. hell a stock Mazda filter cost about the same ... and autozone from time to time have Mobil1 oil change special, the only real deal in Mobil1 is 0w40 and 15w50(I think), get them with filter usually cost 29.99. Use the rewards card to get credit, it brings the overall cost of 5 changes to about 130. not that bad for Group IV oil and a good filter.

as for oil, u get what u paid for. I get them only when there is "oil special" or I dig every single site for special "deals" ...