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12 VDC on the terminals of the motor produces an audible "clunk" and a small amount of movement in the gear (not even sure it's rotating at all), but nothing else. Sounds like I need a new motor - any disagreement?
Magnet should be at 1:00, I had my LIM coated when I did my build so I went through this. I literally spent hours checking and double checking cause I will be damned if I pull a motor for this stupid sensor. Luckily its been 1.2K miles and no code on it.
FYI here is the position full CW that mine was in when I installed it.
Interesting. Other threads have said "1 to 2 o'clock." If indeed it must be 1:00, does that then mean my internals are assembled wrong? Or can it be re-clocked by only 30 degrees by loosening the screw and repositioning the gear?
Engine mounts(then slide the engine to the driver side)
Remove the Air box, Throttle body, UIM, Middle Manifold, and injectors.
Then unbolt the LIM and pull it as far off the engine as possable
Remove the APV motor
Unbolt the intake gasket and slide it to the engine
You will have about one inch of room to work
You have to remove the large gear bolt. Not all the way just far enough that the gear falls out of place.
Then you can clock that gear
Remount the APV Motor
install the large internal gear.
Slide the intake manifold back in place, with 1 or 2 bolts
Turn the car to ACC then off and it will cycle. Check for error codes. When you get it clocked right put it all back together.
AND TRY TO DO IT ALL WITHOUT DROPING SOMETHING INTO THE INTAKE
Actually, I was able to pull the APV motor without unbolting the LIM using the wheel-well access method. You have to unbolt two hard lines - first, the larger diameter line that connects to the air control valve. This requires three bolts - one near the air control valve which is accessible from the top, and two on the exhaust manifold, which are accessible via the wheel well. One of these is a bitch and requires a swivel socket.
Once the larger hard line is moveable, you can remove the 12 mm bolt that holds the smaller, vacuum hardline to the LIM, then unplug the soft end of that line. Now you can move the vacuum line out of the way and can easily unbolt the APV motor. Once it is unbolted you can snake it up through the top and unplug it. Once you know how, the procedure is fairly quick.
I'll be ordering a new APV motor tomorrow. Hopefully the 2:00 position of the magnet will work. We shall see.
Thanks for the help everyone - I'll update later in the week when I have the new motor in.
George, Logal is refereeing to if you have the magnet in the wrong position, it can only be adjusted by removing the great under the LIM gasket and re-positioning it with his stated process which is a PITA
George, Logal is refereeing to if you have the magnet in the wrong position, it can only be adjusted by removing the great under the LIM gasket and re-positioning it with his stated process which is a PITA
The new APV actuator did the trick. No more CEL, even with the magnet at 2:00. Thanks for the help everyone - glad I did't have to go through logan's procedure.
The new APV actuator did the trick. No more CEL, even with the magnet at 2:00. Thanks for the help everyone - glad I did't have to go through logan's procedure.
I'm glad you didn't too. It was such a PITA. And the whole time I was worried about droping something into the intake and having to pull the engine.
Enzyme, don't be sorry this is the right place to ask for the same problem. That is definitely in the wrong position. Was it working then just went out of wack for some reason? or did you recently do something like a rebuild? With it out of the car you can adjust it in much finer increments by removing the inside gear on the shaft.
The outside gear only had the 180Deg movement that you previously mentioned.
Thanks! Once I removed the gasket and removed both APV barrels I was able to remove the rod inside and the gear inside so I was able to adjust the full clockwise position to 1:00.
I know this is an old thread, but rather than pulling the LIM (and potentially the engine, depending upon method chosen) when the internal gear is clocked wrong, does anyone have thoughts on using a dremel and moving or replacing the magnet in the appropriate location? I suspect epoxy will be sufficient to hold it in place and I have a spare gear since you can order one as part of the TSB # 01-012/10 for repairing certain 2004 vehicles. It may be a much quicker fix, but re-using the old magnet could be a challenge and getting the correct polarity in a replacement magnet may play a role. I'm going to attempt it in the interest of saving time, I just wondered if anyone had any thoughts or concerns. Mine is at 2:30 and throwing a P2004. It moves freely and the motor works fine. We just messed up when repairing the LIM prior to installation.
Hi sorry for ressurrecting the Thread but after reading the service manual it says that the opearating voltage should be 3,6-4,4 volts dosnt that mean that the motor is 5 volt? i saw your video with 5 volt testing af was wondering if that would hurt the APV.
the reason im asking is not to talk down your great video its acutally becaus i want to make device wich is able to control the APV from my Haltech ecu and i need to get a Custom control device, however it will be alot harder if i need a 5 volt surce?.
Yes, 5V. You really need a Mazda service manual; a real paper one, not the online version. The usual free online version was made very early. It's missing detailed information and has mistakes. It's pulse duty activated for specific time periods. Have fun with that.
Hi sorry for ressurrecting the Thread but after reading the service manual it says that the opearating voltage should be 3,6-4,4 volts dosnt that mean that the motor is 5 volt? i saw your video with 5 volt testing af was wondering if that would hurt the APV.
the reason im asking is not to talk down your great video its acutally becaus i want to make device wich is able to control the APV from my Haltech ecu and i need to get a Custom control device, however it will be alot harder if i need a 5 volt surce?.
Best regards Rasmus Andersen Denmark, commander of the armies of the north, general of cars and coffee, loyal customer to the true manufacturer, Mazda. Owner of a rx8, victim to low compression, and I will hit 500hp, with a renesis or rew
If the gear turns further than 1 o'clock when fully Clockwise (to the right), but not by much - roughly the 2-3 o'clock position, could this cause problems?
I wonder if when turning to the right, the motor stops once the magnet is tripped?
Alright, I have a real head scratcher on my hands and I'll try to keep it short and simple.
I had to rebuild my 2007 6 Port Renesis engine. I wanted to clean up the LIM and so I disassembled the entire thing. Cleaned it, primed it, painted it, and put everything back in place. I clocked the white gear to the 1 o'clock position, but I was going off of blurry pictures when putting the APV rack and pinion gears back together so I'm not entirely sure that I got that correct. However I noticed that on the black gear (behind the LIM Gasket) there is a single dimple. There is also an orange/tan gear with two dimples as well. Also, once I got the engine back in the car, it fired up right away, ran fine for about 3 minutes, stalled, and never started again.
This seems to me like there is a timing or rather a gearing position between the white gear that connects to the electric motor, the black gear on the engine side, and the orange gear which connects to the black gear to the rod (or rack) for the APV valves.
What I'm trying to figure out is 2 things. #1, does the gearing position between those gears matter other than the white gear with the magnet ? And #2, if the position of the APV valves, or gears, were not positioned correctly, could that prevent the engine from idling smoothly, stalling, or even starting ? I will post pictures of the gears in question as soon as I can so that people can see that I'm not entirely crazy. lol
I have researched this online COUNTLESS times and have come up with very little information. I could really use some help from someone who knows the stock Renesis engine well. Thank you.
Hey guys and gals..I have been looking at diagrams and auto websites and here...but i guess i just dont know what its called...its the cable that plugs into positive battery side to the top bolt alternator....any help on what its called so i can got get one. Thank you....
08-05-2013, 05:40 PM
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