dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

i just hit 50000 miles today is there any thing i should check on the car or replace.

an how do i get the extend warranty of 100,000 miles from mazda or does it just happen

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Uh, have you done anything to the car in 50,000 miles beside drive it?

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

8yrs or 100k miles is the standard warranty

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

yes i bought the car with 35k on it i have replaced the oil every 4,ooo miles, i am planing on replacing the rear tires, i replaced the spark plugs and the clutch and the flywheel all 5000 miles ago. i also check the oil evey time i get gas an give her some if it needs it.

i was just wondering if there are certain things i should look to replace or that Mazda recommends changing at 50k

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

coils, air filter....

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

would these coils be best, http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...ition-system6/.

and are you recomending getting a whole new like cold air intake or just a k&n drop in

Old Rotor

K&N or OEM are a great way to go. Have you replaced your spark plug wires yet?

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

i have not replaced the wires yet no

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

The BHR kit is great, I would also recommend you start premixing. The BHR kit is pricey but it will pay for itself if you plan on keeping the car.

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

ive seen people on here go to 10w30 for the oil what difference would that make

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Honestly I ran Castrol 10W-30 on my second engine and it lasted over 70,000 miles. I am certain with premix and a good synthetic oil I could have gone another 25,000 or more. I was consistent with my oil changes at 3,000 but based on what I'm seeing now, my Castrol dino oil was probably pretty broken down at 3,000 miles.

You live in Michigan so I would stick with a 0W-40 or 5W-40 like Royal Purple or if your cost conscious, Mobil 1. You could get away with a 0W-30 or 5W-30 full synthetic as as well.

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

i thought we werent suppose to put synthetic in the rx8. except for royal purple,
what is the premix ratio you use and what kind, i just looked at the premix thread and its 77 pages, sorry i dont have 3 days to waste

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

i meant OEM air filter or K&N drop in
BHR coil upgrade is the way to go
i use Royal Purp 10W-30 and running strong
get some Moroso or Racing Beat Wires
ive heard many good things about Idemitsu but havent used premix my self although i should

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

And any premix is better than none. I premix Lucas UCL. 5oz per tank. But will run Amsoil Saber pro in my SOHN.

dabax2324

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks this thread has helped alot, what about breaks i remeber my focus and my friends jetta both recomended changing at 50k

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Change your brakes when they need it. Just take the wheels off and check. Really depends how you drive. My first set lasted almost 80k and that was with quite a few track days.

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

Hawk HP pads FTW

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

what about breaks? what breaks what ?

just messin' with ya buddy

stanknasty56

i hit 54000 and my clutch petal broke and then the cluch went out. 1536.94 to fix both of them. im going to replace the coils and plugs here pretty soon. thats all i had to do besides new rotors and break pads

UrbanOcho

iTrader: (2)

my 05 just got its first set of replacement coils...just last week at a bit over 60K miles. couple of regrets. 1. that i didn't replace them around 55k when i got the car and 2. that i didn't get BHRs put in.

BigMikeATL

Idemitsu. 4-6oz per tank. You can get it from Mazdatrix.

Some FP Plus doesn't hurt either.

Nubo

If you don't know the maintenance history, probably should replace tranny and differential lubes as well as coolant and air filter. Inspect belts and hoses. Flushing the brake system probably a good idea too.

04RX8man

coolant flush
diff flush
trans flush
air filter

tiltmode43

iTrader: (15)

Just for clarification, to anyone reading this thread - the 8yr/100k warranty is only on rotors/housings/seals/gaskets aka motor internals + core. Nothing else is covered under the extension...

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Just to recap:

1. Coils, either OEM or better the BHR kit (which also contains 'plug cables)
2. Sparkplugs, which you've done (hopefully NGK Iridium)
3. Sparkplug cables, if not going with BHR; stock are good, Moroso or MSD a bit better.
3. Intake Air filter; stock is good; K&N drop-in to stock intake box is a plus.
4. Cabin air filter, the Aldehyde from Mazda is better than stock http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=273&page=1
5. Transmission fluid, drain and replace with Redline MT90
6. Differential fluid, drain and replace with Redline 75w90
7. Oil and filter change; OEM filter and Castrol GTX 5W30 (10w if warmer climate)
8. Premix with 3.5-4 oz of Idemitsu 2-cycle oil every tankful
9. Brake pads, if necessary. Inspect current thickness. Stock are good, Hawk a bit better.
10. Rotors, if necessary. Inspect and replace if 'phonograph record' grooves. Stock are good, Racing Brake a bit better.
11. Coolant flush and refill with 50/50 premix Dextron
12. Brake hydraulic fluid flush and refill with DOT3 (optional; but at least check level)
13. Rotate your tires and check pressure; note that some aftermarket tires are directional.
14. Clean your MAF with spray electronics cleaner.
15. Reinforce your Clutch Pedal with welding or bracket.

There, that ought keep you busy over the winter an establish a clean baseline going forward.