Obsidian

I cant seem to find what I am looking for searching but anyway. Just got the car last Saturday so I havent driven it all that much yet.
Has been perfect so far. 2007 Black M6 GT.
Went in to the dealership to do the first oil change yesterday, then drove it over to my parents place, parked for the day, then when I started it up 6 hours later the CEL came on. I have done the obligatory checks that I could do in a short amount of time yesterday, but still looking for more..

What can I do on a sunday when I have no access to any code reading device?
Is there a thread with troubleshooting steps when you cant get an error code?
65000kms. Stock cat, coils, wires.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

you know how many codes are there?

Get the code first, then come back.

Flashwing

Without an error code there is no way to determine the root cause of the check engine light.

Obsidian

Well, I guess thanks for the quick response.
Its just I am in Canada and we dont have Autozone so my only way to get the code is to go to the stealership, and I work 10 hour days all week when they are open.

Is there any chance they could have done something during an oil change or knocked something loose? When I checked the dipstick last night, it was loose and put in backwards. Is there a sensor/code for that too?

ASH8

Hi..

I suggest you invest in a good OBD-II Reader..universal use.

Difficult to tell what the CEL is, do you have any misfire or poor performance symptoms.

You REALLY need to get the code or tell us more...all guess work really otherwise.

ASH8

NO...

I would check to make sure your Gas cap is on properly...I guess you don't have performance issues??

As others have said...we need the code.

You could try and re-set PCM, disconnect Negative Cable, if you have no performance problem and see if CEL comes back on??

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

It could be as simple as gas cap is loose/not tighten, or it could be something more serious like Engine running super lean or misfire.

The car is trying to tell you "Hey, my default program said there is something wrong", but if you don't communicate with it via OBD II code, there is no way to know what the computer is trying to tell you.

The cheapest way is unplug your battery for couple of minutes, plug it back on and see if it will come back.

next one is if you can find someone around you who can lend you an OBD II CAN-BUS compatible reader just for 15 seconds.

but still you should try to spend maybe 30 bux to buy a small OBDII Can-bus compatible reader.

Obsidian

yeah I might end up getting an OBD-II reader. Never really thought I would need one I guess.

I just thought someone might have had a quick idea of something caused by the oil change.
I did check all of the basic stuff in the manual and a couple of other things, I also reset the ECU with the method of making the odo screen go to test twice as per the sticky? Still stayed on at engine start.

I will take it in to get the code checked over the next couple of days.
I did notice that the oil was overfilled (no spill over though), and that the dipstick was put in backwards and not all the way in.
Also took a light spin around the block and I am pretty sure it is misfiring, along with the occasional horrible stink from the exhaust.
I wasnt really 100% sure what a misfire in an 8 would sound/feel like but I think I know now.

We'll see right?

zoom44

did you get gas before or after the dealership and the parents place?

FungsterRacing

iTrader: (4)

NOOO! Lol Part Source does it for free! Just tell them you need a code read and they do it on the spot for free!

Obsidian

A lot of people on here seem pretty convinced that I have left the filler cap undone. It was the first thing I did, right out of the OEM manual, before I even started searching on here. Besides that, had filled up a few days before and it was fine. Either way I have checked and rechecked that. Not The Cap!

I have never heard of Part Source before. We mainly just have Lordco Autoparts here, a few Napa's, and some JB autogroup places. I guess I can try Lordco. They are the biggest around here but not quite as consumer-centric as places like AutoZone.

EDIT: The only place I can think of that would sell an OBD reader for a decent price (that I can look at online and buy locally) is from Canadian Tire, and they want $130 for the cheapest one. Who sells one for $30??

ASH8

Obsidian,
None of us are convinced of anything, we are just running through a few known DTC symptoms that 'could' be giving you a CEL..

Up until your last post you failed to mention an engine miss or unsure if you even have one, this "could" be related to Spark Plugs or probably Ignition Coils or other, could be a stuck or sticking SS Valve.

There are a multitude of DT Codes in all makes of late model cars, until you have this stored code in your cars PCM (ECU) read we are ALL guessing or suggesting.

Purchasing a good OBD II Code Reader is an investment as they can be used on virtually all makes of cars made from around 2002 on-wards.

I suggest you do some "Canadian" Googling to find a good OBD-II reader in your country or purchase one on-line in the US.

Then get back to us...

Good Luck!

Obsidian

Good points.
I never mentioned anything about misfires because I didn't know I had any (still don't for sure). Depending on how early I can get off work tomorrow I'll look into getting a reader or atleast getting the code pulled. If it is coils I'll probably just get the bhr kit.
Haven't read much about the ssv? Yet but I'll look into it.
Sucks it's happening already, just blew all my money on the car so not a whole lot left for the next little while!

Anyway thanks everyone for the tips and pointers. I'll let you know what I can come up with.

FungsterRacing

iTrader: (4)

Do you have a Princess Auto? If so, I bought my OBD2 reader and eraser there for $39.99. Also multi-acts as a trip-recorder (Mileage, TPS, etc.) It does everything on a little screen. If you can't find one, order one off of their website.

Also, I made a thread about misfire's, the link is in my sig

zoom44

i asked about the cap because you hadnt mentioned the miss AND you hadnt said when you got gas. the test that fails the gas cap runs AFTER the car is turned off. so the first time you see the code is the next time you start the car. your situation of driving home and then seeing a cell is classic for failing that evap test.

you still could have a failed the evap test AND have something else wrong causing the miss.

you said " had filled up a few days before and it was fine." but still havent answered the question of did you get gas THAT DAY. have you checked with the service department if they put any gas in?

the cel will will also take several driving sessions to clear if you have remedied a loose cap by clicking it again. saying you checked and re-checked the cap doesnt mean the code was cleared. did you clear the code yourself after checking the cap and then have it come back on? or has it been steady lit? how many driving cycles have you done since checking it and re-checking it?

Obsidian

I havent really had an opportunity to check with the service department other than to tell them it went on the day of, so I dont know if they put gas in. I dont know why they would have, but I did not. I had filled up about three days before the oil change and had done several drive cycles before the oil change. Since the light has come on, I have done maybe three or four? The light has been on constant, not flickering or situational. When I cleared the ECU ( a few times ), it came on and stayed on solid even before the car was started, and stays on after its going.
I never really noticed any misfires the day of, but when I washed it yesterday I took it for a spin, and I am pretty sure its misfiring. At idle/standstill I can just rev the throttle barely, and once in a while it misses, and under load at higher RPM's it does the same thing.

There are no Princess Auto's here that I have ever heard of. We just have LordCo, NAPA, JB Auto Group and Cambodian Tire.
Both NAPA and JB close at 5 so I havent been able to get in there yet, both LordCo and Crappy Tire start at $130.

My 12 hour work days are preventing me doing much about this for the time being . At least I have a second car still...

tonik

check this one..
http://www.princessauto.com/contact-...mbia/?Itemid=0

zoom44

the persistence of the cell suggests ignition or emissions codes. my gut tells me its going to be cat related .

Obsidian

Good Guess!

Got off work as early as I could today so I could do some running around. Found a OBD-II reader at NAPA for $69; might pick that up tomorrow.

Anyway, went into the dealer and told them about the CEL and the oil change overfill, and they helped me out.

Turns out that the code "P0031" was showing as 02 Sensor. I was told that the oil being so overfilled as it was, was causing the engine to run overly rich and was fouling the 02 Sensor because of the pressure being thrown out of whack.
Sounds kind of fishy in relation to what I have read about others being overfilled, but the sensor part makes sense.

He managed to clear the code, but the light came back on about 30 mins later. Should I be expecting this to go away after a few more drive cycles or should I look elsewhere?

I might go in and get that reader tomorrow morning - they had to order it from another store first so it wouldn't have been in until tomorrow anyway.

zoom44

over filling the oil can cause it to get in the intake track causing the maf to be dirty, causing the engine to run lean or rich etc etc etc. its very "reasonable" except they shoudl be doing more- like checking an cleaning the intake/maf etc- than just clearing the code and sending you on your way.

Obsidian

I did the MAF DIY before the oil change, and then checked again after it when I started having problems. I cleaned it again for good measure, but the intake was spotless. I have the mazdaspeed CAI and I can see its still shiny on the inside of the tube, no residue whatsoever.
Should I be worried that the CEL came back on again? Do you think it did any permanent damage to the cat?

zoom44

yes. or it could just be the sensor. did they tell you about the test they ran on the sensor?

Obsidian

They didn't really run any tests as far as I know? He came out to the parking lot and pulled the code, then after the mechanic drained some of the oil and took it for a spin to see if it was still rough.
I'll know more after today when I have more time to drive if it's still rough at all.

What test would/should they have done?

zoom44

see attached documents

Obsidian

All fixed now, new front O2 sensor, and new plugs to boot. Sure makes a difference in idle and smoothness, too. The mileage had gotten HORRIBLE because it was running so rich.. Talking 260km to a tank. OUCH!

After getting it up on some jack stands, getting the plugs out was EASY.
The O2 sensor is another story. From how hard it was to get the harness connector undone, to the clip on the side of the transmission, to the sensor itself. WHAT A PAIN! I could not get it out with a 22mm box wrench after letting it soak and re soak on the exhaust.. had to take it in for a half hour labor to get the new one put in. Why are there no DIY's for the sensor?? I looked for ages with the google search on here and couldnt find anything!

Anyway, here is what the plugs looked like after 65000km's. First time they have been replaced on this car: