04Green

iTrader: (1)

Am replacing the transmission soon. I cooked this one. CAT had issues at a track weekend, shifter got hot, trans got really hot.

I replaced the CAT with a resonated mid-pipe, but the resonator is next to the trans. I am planning on using VHT Flame Proof paint on the resonator to keep the heat in the resonator, and out of the trans. It looks like it should work as good or better than header wrap, and survive a speed bump better than header wrap.

Anyone got any experience with this stuff? I know I have to cure it, but can do that with engine heat.

I plan to add a CAT back in, but it will be downstream of the mid-pipe.

Thoughts?

Karack

it works OK as a covering but i wouldn't expect much in the way of results in keeping the heat in the exhaust. a $8 can of ceramic mixed rattle can paint isn't a replacement for a proper ceramic coating or exhaust wrap.

yes it does work even on turbo exhaust housings but you can tell the difference between it and a good quality ceramic application where you can keep your hand on the exhaust even after a few minutes of run time.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Thanks..

Maybe that and wrap. I just figure I am going to lose the wrap the first time I scrape on a speed bump.

I found a couple of videos on application where bikers had used it and they claimed a better performance than the wraps.

Thanks for the response.. Maybe I can before and after it... Not sure how....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

send ur pipe to get it ceramic coat, it's expensive but it does make a difference

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Update / Bump / Whatever

Got under the car today with the engine running. Looking for an exhaust leak, because I was too foolish to replace the front crush washer (Long story, lost it, found it after car was back together).

Let engine warm up, fond leak, while under car notice that flanges were really hot, pipe out of resonator was really hot, resonator was so so warm, I could put my hand on it... Grabbed non-contact pyrometer.

Heat shield surface on head pipe ~ 195 degrees
Flange for head pipe ~ 250 degrees
Pipe between flange and resonator ~ 410 degrees
Front of resonator ~220 degrees
Rear of resonator ~ 185 degrees
Pipe out of resonator ~390 degrees.

These temps were at idle, after about 10 minutes. To me, the most telling ones are the inlet pipe and the outlet pipe (~ 400 degrees) to the surface (~200).

I sprayed a can of the primer on the resonator, then a can of color, following the directions, and curing it on the car.

Yes, I had a bad CAT (broken media), and that baked the trans, and really heated up inside the car. Now the floor is cool, the trans is cool, the shifter is cool, the console is cool, all is cool. My coffee does not stay warm as long, but I can live with that. I intend to add a race cat back in when finances permit, but I will coat that as well.

Car has been tracked several times, so track heat is not an issue. It did scratch when I drug the car over a speed bump.

So, those looking to kill heat, this stuff works pretty good.

I did look at header tape, but it would not have lasted over the speed bump.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I ran for about 8 months:
VHT coated exhaust pipe.
Fiberglass header wrap.
Everything coated with aluminum HVAC tape.

You could touch the exhaust very briefly without burning your hand and radiant heat was drastically cut. The fiberglass did start to break down, but it didn't fall apart or lose functionality until I removed it. The VHT paint was hit or miss, some sections had a bit of flaking and some looked like new, but it all comes down to prep there. I was pleased with the results and will use that technique in the future.

Really though there is no need to go through all that unless you have other considerations. The stock exhaust is fine.