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Old 08-03-2012, 01:23 PM   #1
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True tourque of your spark plugs

What is the true tourque for your spark plugs
I have discuss this with other 8 owners,
Mazda says to tighten by hand untill you feel resistance and a half turn and the plug will be tourqed,
others say to tighten by socket until plug will not turn anymore (im sure this will work out to be an crazy amount of FPT,
and others say you tighten by hand a make a two full rotation,

What is the CORRECT tourque in your opinion?
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:02 PM   #2
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Tighten by hand until tight.
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #3
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I was going to ask where the OBII plug was as well.



this is sarcasim, found a funny thread while searching
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:50 AM   #4
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According to the manual 114-156 inch/pounds.

SPARK PLUG REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Mazda says to tighten by hand untill you feel resistance and a half turn and the plug will be tourqed
I don't recall offhand whether the half turn is the right value for our plugs, but that kind of spec applies to a new crush washer. If you're putting a used plug back in and using the same washer, that won't get you there. Use a torque spec, like Edzride says.

If you have a car that uses tapered seat plugs without a washer, then "hand tight plus 1/8 (or whatever) turn more" always works.

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Old 08-04-2012, 12:06 PM   #6
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:46 PM   #7
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hand tighten until it stops, then use your ratchet to give it another 1/4 turn. done.

before install, ALWAYS apply Anti-seize to the threads.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:20 PM   #8
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...before install, ALWAYS apply Anti-seize to the threads.
I'm with you 100% on that. But just to give the OCD crowd some angst, NGK says to not use anti-sieze.

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Old 08-04-2012, 04:41 PM   #9
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I'm with you 100% on that. But just to give the OCD crowd some angst, NGK says to not use anti-sieze.

Ken
cuz they are afraid it might effect the grounding point of the spark plug aka the threads

honestly, most if not all anti-seize are electricity conductive. even if it does add a few ohm of resistance. I still will use it, cuz it's better to have less performance than a seized-up spark plug
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:25 PM   #10
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^ note that increased electrical resistance also means reduced heat transfer. A loose or over gooped spark plug will run hotter than it should, which may, if it goes far enough, cause pre-ignition.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:53 AM   #11
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^ note that increased electrical resistance also means reduced heat transfer. A loose or over gooped spark plug will run hotter than it should, which may, if it goes far enough, cause pre-ignition.
but honestly, how much are we losing? I would say it's probably negligible and not going to cause any "reduced heat transfer"

and again, would u rather have reduced heat transfer or a dead stuck spark plug ... I take reduced heat transfer.

next time when I do my plugs (or doing it for other members) I'm gonna use a torque wrench and check how much torque am I putting to the spark plugs.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:53 AM   #12
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heres a new thought--maybe while we are focused on sparkplug TQ ( how did this get started anyway
what about indexing the plugs? Who thinks that there may be some value in doing that?.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:08 AM   #13
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I left mine at stock, but if u are racing (autoxing, whatever), then It might be a better idea to do that.

or just use Denso plugs
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:08 AM
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