Suffering From a Misfire? START HERE.
#201
Thank you SOOO much! I'm taking it to the State Inspector tomorrow with a ton of documentation, and I will include your comment, if you don't mind. Mazda has told me that what I suggested is "impossible" that the ECU, PCM, would have to be re-coded for a new engine. They didn't even want to give me the invoice for the new engine, gave me the runaround, they never sent it to me. Thank the Lord for bank statements! I'll let you know what happens! I was even told by the employee who "diagnosed" my car @ Mazda that they won't even let RX8s on their lot! What? Get rid of it!!! What? I love my car. Period. Again, Thank you!!!
#202
Thank you SOOO much! I'm taking it to the State Inspector tomorrow with a ton of documentation, and I will include your comment, if you don't mind. Mazda has told me that what I suggested is "impossible" that the ECU, PCM, would have to be re-coded for a new engine. They didn't even want to give me the invoice for the new engine, gave me the runaround, they never sent it to me. Thank the Lord for bank statements! I'll let you know what happens! I was even told by the employee who "diagnosed" my car @ Mazda that they won't even let RX8s on their lot! What? Get rid of it!!! What? I love my car. Period. Again, Thank you!!!
#206
Did you get this figured out?
301 indicates a misfire on the front rotor, as you may know.
If you are replacing the coils, replace the plugs at the same time. Preventative maintenance, plus it probably has to be done regardless.
Is the car running? Is it running OK, or bucking? If its running fine, there is no reason not to drive it to get the coils for example.
301 indicates a misfire on the front rotor, as you may know.
If you are replacing the coils, replace the plugs at the same time. Preventative maintenance, plus it probably has to be done regardless.
Is the car running? Is it running OK, or bucking? If its running fine, there is no reason not to drive it to get the coils for example.
#207
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Location: oceanside, CA
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need some advice on which route to take
I have a 2004 rx8 6speed manual. its my friends car which i bought off him for $2,000.
It blew a seal and there it coolant in the chamber and failed compression test. the engine only had 60,000 miles on it, and my friend took really good care of it. would you guys say its rebuildable or would the housings be toasted. the car was turned of immediately when it was overheated. Im looking at rebuild, rebuild plus turbo, junk yard engine, or reman engine. please let me know what you guys think.
thanks,
Brian
It blew a seal and there it coolant in the chamber and failed compression test. the engine only had 60,000 miles on it, and my friend took really good care of it. would you guys say its rebuildable or would the housings be toasted. the car was turned of immediately when it was overheated. Im looking at rebuild, rebuild plus turbo, junk yard engine, or reman engine. please let me know what you guys think.
thanks,
Brian
#208
Pretty difficult to answer a (sort of) question like this.
If the engine went out, then the only way to know the damage is to tear it down. Any engine can technically be rebuilt, and using a reputable builder known around these forums would most likely yield a more reliable running engine than if you went to a junkyard or reman, per say. I suppose the remans have been getting better, but personally I'd do a rebuild.
My opinion.
If the engine went out, then the only way to know the damage is to tear it down. Any engine can technically be rebuilt, and using a reputable builder known around these forums would most likely yield a more reliable running engine than if you went to a junkyard or reman, per say. I suppose the remans have been getting better, but personally I'd do a rebuild.
My opinion.
I have a 2004 rx8 6speed manual. its my friends car which i bought off him for $2,000.
It blew a seal and there it coolant in the chamber and failed compression test. the engine only had 60,000 miles on it, and my friend took really good care of it. would you guys say its rebuildable or would the housings be toasted. the car was turned of immediately when it was overheated. Im looking at rebuild, rebuild plus turbo, junk yard engine, or reman engine. please let me know what you guys think.
thanks,
Brian
It blew a seal and there it coolant in the chamber and failed compression test. the engine only had 60,000 miles on it, and my friend took really good care of it. would you guys say its rebuildable or would the housings be toasted. the car was turned of immediately when it was overheated. Im looking at rebuild, rebuild plus turbo, junk yard engine, or reman engine. please let me know what you guys think.
thanks,
Brian
#209
Hey, I have a problem with misfires at idle when warming up
04 manual, 58k miles, got new plugs about 3-4k ago.
I started it, started fine. As soon as the RPMs got down to normal range, it began sounding like it was about to stall out, then engine slowed down dramatically, then it would bounce back up to about 2k-2.5k RPM. Over and over again. Also at this time I got a flashing CEL (misfire). It would go to the edge of stalling, then bounce back up. It would slowly come back down like it normally does during start up. But it sounded very rough and clogged.
other details, its been sitting a lot lately. with the exception of one long trip (250+ mi) its gone under 1k miles in the last 6 months... so gas may not be as fresh, it is premium though. It just passed inspection, air filter and oil change was done. Never experienced inability to start it hot.. and my starter is old too.
Any idea what it would be? I've been taking care of it for the most part, i'd be devastated if this was due to low compression.
04 manual, 58k miles, got new plugs about 3-4k ago.
I started it, started fine. As soon as the RPMs got down to normal range, it began sounding like it was about to stall out, then engine slowed down dramatically, then it would bounce back up to about 2k-2.5k RPM. Over and over again. Also at this time I got a flashing CEL (misfire). It would go to the edge of stalling, then bounce back up. It would slowly come back down like it normally does during start up. But it sounded very rough and clogged.
other details, its been sitting a lot lately. with the exception of one long trip (250+ mi) its gone under 1k miles in the last 6 months... so gas may not be as fresh, it is premium though. It just passed inspection, air filter and oil change was done. Never experienced inability to start it hot.. and my starter is old too.
Any idea what it would be? I've been taking care of it for the most part, i'd be devastated if this was due to low compression.
#210
Currently having a strange cold start misfiring issue that causes my 8 to run like a lawnmower for the first 5-25 seconds if it's sat for reasonable length of time (5+ hours) with the longer wait meaning longer period of misfiring.
Once the first couple of seconds passes it'll warm up like normal and there's no noticable loss of power.
I installed a BHR ignition around 6k miles ago, with new plugs at the same time. No cat and have an AEM intake. Also running SOHN + Premix using idemitsu.
The issue began after reinstalling my sohn adapter (wasn't feeding correctly, thought I screwed up the adapter but after reinstalling I noticed I didn't put a hole in the reservoir to prevent vacuum) I decided to clean off the MAF/ESS while I was in there. I did the NVRAM/KAM reset as well.
I'm pointing my finger at the MAF/ESS as those are the only two components I touched that would have any effect on starting/misfiring. I've since reset the KAM/NVRAM multiple times and re-cleaned both sensors twice.
Normally I'd just chalk it up to something being fouled or dirty, but I'm scratching my head at this point, as I haven't gotten any codes other then the p0301 for the misfiring. Again, after the first couple of seconds it runs just fun with no lack of power.
Any ideas?
Once the first couple of seconds passes it'll warm up like normal and there's no noticable loss of power.
I installed a BHR ignition around 6k miles ago, with new plugs at the same time. No cat and have an AEM intake. Also running SOHN + Premix using idemitsu.
The issue began after reinstalling my sohn adapter (wasn't feeding correctly, thought I screwed up the adapter but after reinstalling I noticed I didn't put a hole in the reservoir to prevent vacuum) I decided to clean off the MAF/ESS while I was in there. I did the NVRAM/KAM reset as well.
I'm pointing my finger at the MAF/ESS as those are the only two components I touched that would have any effect on starting/misfiring. I've since reset the KAM/NVRAM multiple times and re-cleaned both sensors twice.
Normally I'd just chalk it up to something being fouled or dirty, but I'm scratching my head at this point, as I haven't gotten any codes other then the p0301 for the misfiring. Again, after the first couple of seconds it runs just fun with no lack of power.
Any ideas?
#212
I had an extra set of plugs laying around, so figured I might of swell swap them out if I'm pulling them.
Reset NVRAM and KAM as well. Ran rough for about 3-4 seconds and then idled like normal, though did not give a flashing MIL. Will update after a couple of days of sitting. To see if it cured the issue.
It sat for 2 days before this, where it normally would of misfired for around 20 seconds for this long.
My coolant was also slightly low, making me think that its leaking into the housing after the vehicle cools off, though I'm not positive.
As for the pulled plugs, they were all dry and seem to be mostly brown, with the front rotor being slightly more black.
http://imgur.com/KtqpShf
Something to note - during my SOHN initial install I premixed heavily, around 100:1 or so.
I premixed like this for about three weeks, as I wasn't positive the adapter was working correctly, which it wasn't. I ran heavy premix with the working adapter for about of week.
I'm currently on my first tank without any premix.
Could it be possible that the heavy amount of premix was fouling the plugs? It doesn't really explain as to why it would misfire at only cold starts after it sat, as I'd assume it'd cause misfires all over the place.
Anyway, were my plugs 'OK'?
Thanks in advance,
Blake
Reset NVRAM and KAM as well. Ran rough for about 3-4 seconds and then idled like normal, though did not give a flashing MIL. Will update after a couple of days of sitting. To see if it cured the issue.
It sat for 2 days before this, where it normally would of misfired for around 20 seconds for this long.
My coolant was also slightly low, making me think that its leaking into the housing after the vehicle cools off, though I'm not positive.
As for the pulled plugs, they were all dry and seem to be mostly brown, with the front rotor being slightly more black.
http://imgur.com/KtqpShf
Something to note - during my SOHN initial install I premixed heavily, around 100:1 or so.
I premixed like this for about three weeks, as I wasn't positive the adapter was working correctly, which it wasn't. I ran heavy premix with the working adapter for about of week.
I'm currently on my first tank without any premix.
Could it be possible that the heavy amount of premix was fouling the plugs? It doesn't really explain as to why it would misfire at only cold starts after it sat, as I'd assume it'd cause misfires all over the place.
Anyway, were my plugs 'OK'?
Thanks in advance,
Blake
#213
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
I wouldn't call 100:1 heavy
IMO heavy is at least 50:1 and off the rails would be 20:1
So no I don't believe you've fouled the plugs
You're being honest about not installing your SOHN correctly which I appreciate.
When I read that my first thought was "oh no"
Hope I'm wrong. Keep us posted.
IMO heavy is at least 50:1 and off the rails would be 20:1
So no I don't believe you've fouled the plugs
You're being honest about not installing your SOHN correctly which I appreciate.
When I read that my first thought was "oh no"
Hope I'm wrong. Keep us posted.
#214
I wouldn't call 100:1 heavy
IMO heavy is at least 50:1 and off the rails would be 20:1
So no I don't believe you've fouled the plugs
You're being honest about not installing your SOHN correctly which I appreciate.
When I read that my first thought was "oh no"
Hope I'm wrong. Keep us posted.
IMO heavy is at least 50:1 and off the rails would be 20:1
So no I don't believe you've fouled the plugs
You're being honest about not installing your SOHN correctly which I appreciate.
When I read that my first thought was "oh no"
Hope I'm wrong. Keep us posted.
Drove the lovely 8 to work on the 27th, ran rough for about 2 seconds. Car sat for two days prior.
Took her out again today, the 31st. Sat for four days, and started up beautifully without any issues. At this point the tank shouldn't of had any premix whatsoever left in it.
Assuming that the first 2 starts were just the ESS relearning the profiles still, I'm going with the problem is solved.
Something to note is the plugs I had before were off of ebay, though they appeared to be normal NGK plugs. The ones I replaced were bought from advanced auto.
Could the old plugs just been some counterfiet crap that were shitting out early?
Anyway, thanks for the help guys. Plugs seemed to fix it completely, just hope it doesn't come back.
Last edited by alphawolff; 05-31-2015 at 09:48 PM.
#215
I couldn't make my own thread in the troubleshooting section so I'll beg for help here.
Few days ago I was driving down the highway, everything was good. I was about to overtake and as I started to switch lanes I lost half of the power and started to make a deep growling noise. I pulled up to the side wondering what might have happened.
So I browsed the forums and found multiple hits that it has a misfire in one of the "cylinders". Later the CEL was flashing confirming that. Later I was picked up and taken to my local Mazda mechanic. I've told them what I suspect and they later called me confirming that the coil was broken and they recommend changing all the plugs.
They called me today saying that they replaced the plugs and coils but it still sounds the same. It has that low RPM, deep sound and won't stay "alive" without accelerating.
It seems that one of the cylinders still won't ignite
One of the exhausts pops from time to time and heats up the tip of it making the bumper around it melt.
They've contacted another Mazda service to get the right tools to check the compression.
The engine has been replaced with a new one 2 years ago. For the last two years it has only driven 5600 miles. The warranty ended last year in October. I bought it a couple of months ago and had no problems until now.
So I wonder if you guys know what else may cause this problem.
Few days ago I was driving down the highway, everything was good. I was about to overtake and as I started to switch lanes I lost half of the power and started to make a deep growling noise. I pulled up to the side wondering what might have happened.
So I browsed the forums and found multiple hits that it has a misfire in one of the "cylinders". Later the CEL was flashing confirming that. Later I was picked up and taken to my local Mazda mechanic. I've told them what I suspect and they later called me confirming that the coil was broken and they recommend changing all the plugs.
They called me today saying that they replaced the plugs and coils but it still sounds the same. It has that low RPM, deep sound and won't stay "alive" without accelerating.
It seems that one of the cylinders still won't ignite
One of the exhausts pops from time to time and heats up the tip of it making the bumper around it melt.
They've contacted another Mazda service to get the right tools to check the compression.
The engine has been replaced with a new one 2 years ago. For the last two years it has only driven 5600 miles. The warranty ended last year in October. I bought it a couple of months ago and had no problems until now.
So I wonder if you guys know what else may cause this problem.
#216
Well, here I am again
8 sat for about five days or so, and went to start it today and it once again misfired for about 5 seconds or so before resuming normal idle.
Later that day I decided to take a spin out to the local abandoned highway and WoT to redline from slow roll to see if everything is reving alright. Shifting to third at 9k felt a small hesitation, though may of just been me on the clutch. However, it was becoming hard to accelerate once I got to around ~8000 in 4th, and at around 8500 began misfiring and I let off. Pulled the code and was getting random misfires, rather then a specific rotor which is what I normally get.
I turned around a couple of minutes later and repeated the test. Could not get the vehicle to misfire all the way to redline in 5th.
There has to be something going on here, and I'm not positive they're related to each other.
Again, BHR ignition/wires with ~7k miles on them and brand new spark plugs with 100 miles or so.
Is it possible that a BHR coil is failing prematurely? I've read about it happening, and am not too sure how to test them myself. I do have my old set of coils laying around that I could swap back to, and will try that the next free day I have.
Another possibility is that I over/under torqued the spark plugs during install or something, but I really doubt it. I'm also starting to go with I have a failing coolant seal. Reman has around ~50k or so on it, and I'm having the exact same symptoms as 9krpm did https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...3/#post4149564
Be sure they replaced not only the plugs, but all the coils and wires.
8 sat for about five days or so, and went to start it today and it once again misfired for about 5 seconds or so before resuming normal idle.
Later that day I decided to take a spin out to the local abandoned highway and WoT to redline from slow roll to see if everything is reving alright. Shifting to third at 9k felt a small hesitation, though may of just been me on the clutch. However, it was becoming hard to accelerate once I got to around ~8000 in 4th, and at around 8500 began misfiring and I let off. Pulled the code and was getting random misfires, rather then a specific rotor which is what I normally get.
I turned around a couple of minutes later and repeated the test. Could not get the vehicle to misfire all the way to redline in 5th.
There has to be something going on here, and I'm not positive they're related to each other.
Again, BHR ignition/wires with ~7k miles on them and brand new spark plugs with 100 miles or so.
Is it possible that a BHR coil is failing prematurely? I've read about it happening, and am not too sure how to test them myself. I do have my old set of coils laying around that I could swap back to, and will try that the next free day I have.
Another possibility is that I over/under torqued the spark plugs during install or something, but I really doubt it. I'm also starting to go with I have a failing coolant seal. Reman has around ~50k or so on it, and I'm having the exact same symptoms as 9krpm did https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...3/#post4149564
I couldn't make my own thread in the troubleshooting section so I'll beg for help here.
Few days ago I was driving down the highway, everything was good. I was about to overtake and as I started to switch lanes I lost half of the power and started to make a deep growling noise. I pulled up to the side wondering what might have happened.
So I browsed the forums and found multiple hits that it has a misfire in one of the "cylinders". Later the CEL was flashing confirming that. Later I was picked up and taken to my local Mazda mechanic. I've told them what I suspect and they later called me confirming that the coil was broken and they recommend changing all the plugs.
They called me today saying that they replaced the plugs and coils but it still sounds the same. It has that low RPM, deep sound and won't stay "alive" without accelerating.
It seems that one of the cylinders still won't ignite
One of the exhausts pops from time to time and heats up the tip of it making the bumper around it melt.
They've contacted another Mazda service to get the right tools to check the compression.
The engine has been replaced with a new one 2 years ago. For the last two years it has only driven 5600 miles. The warranty ended last year in October. I bought it a couple of months ago and had no problems until now.
So I wonder if you guys know what else may cause this problem.
Few days ago I was driving down the highway, everything was good. I was about to overtake and as I started to switch lanes I lost half of the power and started to make a deep growling noise. I pulled up to the side wondering what might have happened.
So I browsed the forums and found multiple hits that it has a misfire in one of the "cylinders". Later the CEL was flashing confirming that. Later I was picked up and taken to my local Mazda mechanic. I've told them what I suspect and they later called me confirming that the coil was broken and they recommend changing all the plugs.
They called me today saying that they replaced the plugs and coils but it still sounds the same. It has that low RPM, deep sound and won't stay "alive" without accelerating.
It seems that one of the cylinders still won't ignite
One of the exhausts pops from time to time and heats up the tip of it making the bumper around it melt.
They've contacted another Mazda service to get the right tools to check the compression.
The engine has been replaced with a new one 2 years ago. For the last two years it has only driven 5600 miles. The warranty ended last year in October. I bought it a couple of months ago and had no problems until now.
So I wonder if you guys know what else may cause this problem.
Last edited by alphawolff; 06-06-2015 at 01:44 AM.
#217
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
^^^^ Use one of these.
The HEI Spark Tester (The Best Spark Tester On the Market)
Make sure it's an HEI type when you purchase from Amazon or whatever
The HEI Spark Tester (The Best Spark Tester On the Market)
Make sure it's an HEI type when you purchase from Amazon or whatever
#218
Haha, well after driving my rebuilt engine for a week I got the occasional flashing CEL, but only when cruising and it was hot outside (over 85F or so). New coils, leads and plugs had just been installed. Tried using Mazdaedit to scan for codes a couple of times, but nothing was stored. Then finally got it to flash the CEL with a laptop plugged in and it came up with the P0301 code. I only saw the code that one time, but now I knew what to look for I could see the engine misfire detected signal triggering in my logs from time to time when the air temps were high.
Scratched my head for a bit, checked the coil connections, and was about to try swapping my coils, lead and plugs back and forth in case one of my new ones were bad.
Then I noticed that I had not tightened up the metal clip that holds the intake accordian to the throttle body. DOH! A few turns on the screwdriver, and 300miles later I have not seen another misfire recorded. Hopefully that has sorted it.
Scratched my head for a bit, checked the coil connections, and was about to try swapping my coils, lead and plugs back and forth in case one of my new ones were bad.
Then I noticed that I had not tightened up the metal clip that holds the intake accordian to the throttle body. DOH! A few turns on the screwdriver, and 300miles later I have not seen another misfire recorded. Hopefully that has sorted it.
#219
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I had flashing CEL when I tracked my car 1 month ago. I wasn't sure if it was because my engine was running too hot, low on fuel or reving way too high, i red line it for a good few seconds but thought nothing of it since it CEL went away. Last week, on the ramp up to the freeway, i rev the car up to 6-7rpm and got a quick flashing CEL, I quickly upshifted to 3rd-4th and it went away. Since the board is stating this is most likely a misfire, do I need to bring my car to the shop or am i find to keep driving it until my next service?
#220
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
If it's flashing, it's a misfire.
Misfires kill cats.
If you have a misfire, you need to figure out what is causing it and get it fixed.. it's not okay do drive the car while it's misfiring.
Travis
Misfires kill cats.
If you have a misfire, you need to figure out what is causing it and get it fixed.. it's not okay do drive the car while it's misfiring.
Travis
#221
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I had flashing CEL when I tracked my car 1 month ago. I wasn't sure if it was because my engine was running too hot, low on fuel or reving way too high, i red line it for a good few seconds but thought nothing of it since it CEL went away. Last week, on the ramp up to the freeway, i rev the car up to 6-7rpm and got a quick flashing CEL, I quickly upshifted to 3rd-4th and it went away. Since the board is stating this is most likely a misfire, do I need to bring my car to the shop or am i find to keep driving it until my next service?
Do you know when they were changed last?
Every 30k for coils, plugs & wires is recommended if you didn't already know.
#222
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
Suffering From a Misfire? START HERE.
Blkswan, have you performed any of the troubleshooting described on the first page.
Signs may point to one thing, but unless you figure out what the cause of the issue is, you're just throwing money at it...
Or you could strike the nail on the head lol. Just something to consider.
Signs may point to one thing, but unless you figure out what the cause of the issue is, you're just throwing money at it...
Or you could strike the nail on the head lol. Just something to consider.
#224
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#225
Help P0300
Hello I am new my name is taylor I have a 2004 rx8 with 80,000 miles on it my car keeps stalling after about 30 minutes to an hour of driving I have gutted my cat unplugged the air pump since it's not needed. I got new spark plugs and coils at 65,000 miles replaced air filter with a k and n box filter bought new MAF cleaned Eccentric Shaft Sensor did the 20 brake stomp replaced the vacuum check valve which was clogged but still no vacuum to passenger side at all. I live near kansas city missouri and I'm stumped is there anyone around that is willing to help me and look at my car?