Suffering From a Misfire? START HERE.
03-14-2014, 06:35 PM
#176
the headings don't line up with the numbers when i open it but can see enough to say ............at 6000 it isn't rich . A little lean if anything (the 13.38).
So it wont be a rich misfire .
Calc load does get to 105 which is pretty high (due to cold inlet temps no doubt) . I would be turning my attention to the ignition .
So it wont be a rich misfire .
Calc load does get to 105 which is pretty high (due to cold inlet temps no doubt) . I would be turning my attention to the ignition .
03-19-2014, 04:07 PM
#177
So I checked out the plugs, but they look fine, in fact they looked better than I thought they would...
Did another data log this morning, And I found one thing that really seemed strange, It's on 41.52 Time, Look @ RPMS. Its the full data log, I didn't edit it, It's basically the point from where I get on the interstate to where I park at work got a couple of redlines in there. I was running late.. so let's not look at the speed too much.
Did another data log this morning, And I found one thing that really seemed strange, It's on 41.52 Time, Look @ RPMS. Its the full data log, I didn't edit it, It's basically the point from where I get on the interstate to where I park at work got a couple of redlines in there. I was running late.. so let's not look at the speed too much.
I finally caught this sucker on a data log!! I just hope someone can tell me what went wrong! It's a 4th gear pull, threw a p0300 after too.
03-23-2014, 03:57 PM
#180
so .... was the misfire corresponding to the 11.17 at 6779rpm ?
If so ... I'm thinking it's ignition because it is not rich either side of that and there could be no other reason for it to go rich at that point.
If so ... I'm thinking it's ignition because it is not rich either side of that and there could be no other reason for it to go rich at that point.
Last edited by Brettus; 03-23-2014 at 04:00 PM.
03-23-2014, 08:31 PM
#181
I would assume so, it happened right when I got on it.
Would the motor having low compression have something to do with it?
I'm off tomorrow, so I'll be going over the whole ignition.
Here is the full log, if that helps somehow.
Thanks for the effort in helping me.
Would the motor having low compression have something to do with it?
I'm off tomorrow, so I'll be going over the whole ignition.
Here is the full log, if that helps somehow.
Thanks for the effort in helping me.
05-06-2014, 04:28 PM
#185
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Problem #7: Bad / Clogged CAT
Many people will one day suffer from a bad or clogged Catalytic Converter (AKA 'Cat'). This is very easy to test out - On a night, and on a safe road, take your car for a hard drive. After that, look underneath your car and see if the Cat is glowing. If it is, its clogged. Also, you may notice a loss in power or acceleration.
Many people will one day suffer from a bad or clogged Catalytic Converter (AKA 'Cat'). This is very easy to test out - On a night, and on a safe road, take your car for a hard drive. After that, look underneath your car and see if the Cat is glowing. If it is, its clogged. Also, you may notice a loss in power or acceleration.
Searched a bit, found this thread, read everything and as it started to get darker I filled up and make the clogged test. Well: a glowing cat looks pretty amazing. Will solve it on the weekend.
Thanks again for the summary of possible failures which could lead to misfire.
./edit: Second part of the cat was melted, got gutted. Wasn't the cause of the misfire
Now I wait for my new plugs and cables../edit2: Changed plugs and cables, weren't them either. Changed back to some old coils: working again. 3 of the 4 coils in the car were defective according to my car mechanic
Last edited by larsh; 05-17-2014 at 01:06 PM.
08-07-2014, 09:16 PM
#186
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Gutted cat
Can a gutted cat cause a misfire?
Mod edit to make sure this is eminently clear, and hopefully more Google hits.
A FLASHING CEL IS ALWAYS A MISFIRE!!!
Don't believe me? Check the list of CEL codes from the OEM documentation. The 3 misfire codes are the only ones that have "flash" in the column about what to do with the CEL.
CEL List: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...n-guide-26291/
So because of the large amount of threads being started recently regarding misfires (CEL Codes P0300, P0301, P0302), I have created this thread for any of you sufferer’s to start at. This is a list of possible problems and solutions that you can carry out in order to diagnose and possibly fix your misfire. I want to note that these are in no particular order, and that each persons circumstances can vary; therefore I encourage reading over all the possibilites and going from there. The only one in any real position is #1, as Coils/Plugs/Wires is a common, but not always source of the issue.
Misfires can be caused by many problems in different areas of the car. Some are an easy fix with little to no cost, and others are major, such as loss of compression in one/multiple rotors.
Saying that, if you think that I have missed out on something, which I am quite sure I have, then please comment below and I will add into the list as time goes on.
Issue #1: Ignition (Can Include Coils, Wires, and Plugs)
The coils on the RX8 have long been known to cause problems and misfires in these cars. With an average lifespan of approximately 30,000 miles, the plugs should be changed on a regular basis. The coils as well will need changing, possibly around the same time. If you change the coils, always change the plugs as well. The wires too can have issues with them, as well as the harness's that connect to the back of each coil assembly.
Solution #1: New Coils, Plugs, Wires
There are many different types of replacements you can obtain to fix the burnt out coil/plug issue. You can buy OEM coils, or aftermarket. ALWAYS, I repeat, ALWAYS use the stock plugs in the car. They are properly designed for the right heat ranges. Do not go aftermarket, especially on an NA car.
If you are needing new coils, please do consider that if you go with Mazda OEM, you will again be having to replace them. There are other options out there, but my favorite would have to be the BHR Ignition, created by BHR. The coil packs are known to have an almost 0% failure rate, and you should not have to worry about replacing them again. Please note though, that the plugs will still have to be replaced as time goes on. This kit although will help your plugs last many, if not thousands of more miles than if running on the OEM coils. They also significantly help reduce/eliminate the chance of flooding the engine. To check the plugs, take them out and look at them. Brown is OK, but black and chunky is BAD. If you can take out the plugs, you can tell if there OK or not. Check the coils by attaching an inductive timing light to the wires and revving up the engine. If the light blinks faster and faster (Or intensifies), then the coils should be in OK working condition. There is now a link below to a thread created by TeamRX8.
Also check over the wires with an inductive timing light, as well as visual inspection. You should also be able to tell when you connect the wires on both the coils and plugs that they seat properly. The harness's on the back of the coil packs should also be checked; it may not be likely that these are damaged, but if you find that with an inductive timing light, one coil is not producing spark throughout the rpm range, it could be coil, wire, harness.
PLEASE NOTE: If you change the plugs, wires, and coils (Which you should do at the same time), then please, PLEASE remember to place the plugs in the proper spots and the wires to the proper coils/plugs!!
Links (DIY'S):
For testing the coils, I have pre-written a procedure above, but it is also good to visit this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
For changing the coils, click the below link and read Post #2
DIY: How to replace ignition coils - RX8Club.com
Or
Suffering From a Misfire? START HERE. - RX8Club.com
For changing the spark plugs, click the link below
DIY: Spark Plug change....... - RX8Club.com
Issue #2: MAF Sensor
It is not uncommon for the MAF sensor to become dirty inside the intake. Although this may not be the current issue directly related to the misfire, it can play a significant role. The MAF sensor is for Mass Air Flow measuring, which in short helps with your air/fuel ratio.
Solution #2: Clean or Replace
For the most part, you will most likely be able to clean your MAF sensor. There is a link included with more detailed instruction, but in short, remove the MAF sensor from the intake and spray the two prongs inside of the cylinder with Electrical Contact Cleaner. Be careful to not touch the sensor with your hands, either. Note that replacing the sensor may be necessary if it is damaged.
Links (DIY's):
For Cleaning the MAF
DIY: How to clean the MAF..... - RX8Club.com
Issue #3: Dirty ESS
A dirty ESS (E-shaft) can cause a misfire as well, which is related with NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory). You can
Solution #3: Clean ESS, Reset NVRAM
Also known as the “20 Brake Stomp”, this is an easy, quick, and free fix. Simply turn the car to On mode, and stomp the brake pedal 20 times within 8 seconds. If successful, the oil pressure gauge will sweep. Please Note: You must have the up-to-date ECU flash. Although older flashes do support this procedure, only the updated flashes (past few) will give the oil pressure gauge sweep confirmation.
As for cleaning the ESS, check out the links below
Links (DIY's):
Resetting the NVRAM is provided above.
For Cleaning the ESS
tired of searching ess cleaning - RX8Club.com --- Specifically post #6
Problem #4: Fuel Pump
The fuel pump is an obvious problem that can be directly related to a misfire. Although not too common for the fuel pumps to go, it has happened to many people. To check if the fuel pump is in working order, hook up the fuel line to a pressure gauge. If the pressure is Around 58 PSI, then you should be fine in this area.
Solution #4: Replace Fuel Pump
Title states it all - Replace the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is one of the problems, or the main one for that matter, get it replaced ASAP.
Problem #5: Fuel Pump Harness
The fuel pump’s harness can also be an issue. Whether damaged, corroded or completely destroyed for some reason, it will cause the fuel pump to not act properly or at all, therefore causing a misfire. Check is the same way as the fuel pump - If the pressure is off, you may be able to check the harness for proper connectivity by either just observing it or trying some sort of grounded light method on it.
Solution #5: Replace / Fix
If the wires are broken and you want to try it, solder the wires up. But I would highly recommend replacing the harness.
Problem #6: Low Fuel
Yupp, that’s right. Low fuel can cause fuel pump issues, which can cause a misfire. (And its not good to run your car on low fuel because it makes the job on the fuel pump significantly harder).
Solution #6: Fill Up
Fill up on gas (Premium of course
)
Links (DIY's):
For filling up your Gas Tank
How to Fill Up Your Gas Tank | eHow.com
Problem #7: Bad / Clogged CAT
Many people will one day suffer from a bad or clogged Catalytic Converter (AKA 'Cat'). This is very easy to test out - On a night, and on a safe road, take your car for a hard drive. After that, look underneath your car and see if the Cat is glowing. If it is, its clogged. Also, you may notice a loss in power or acceleration.
If this does not work, the best way to inspect the Cat is to physically remove it and hold it towards the sun / point a flashlight into it. You should be able to see through it. When in doubt, visit the dealership.
Solution #7: Gut or Replace
If you are still under warranty, you can most likely get your Catalytic Converter replaced at no cost to you. If, like myself, you are not under warranty, you have two options: Gut the Cat, or Replace the Cat. To gut it, remove the Cat (Search in DIY), and gut it by pounding out everything inside of it. Make sure you do not hit the O2 sensor!!!
If you do not want to gut the Cat due to emissions, noise, or apparent smell, then either buy a Mazda OEM one and get it installed (Looking at upwards of at least $1k), or, replace it will a higher quality Midpipe, Resonater, High-Flow Cat, etc. You can find these from Racing Beat and other companies, although I would highly recommend the BHR Midpipe.
Links (DIY's):
For Removing and Gutting the Cat (Follow Same Procedure For Installing a New one if you are doing that)
DIY: Gutting out your Catalytic Converter - RX8Club.com
Problem #8: Low Compression
Low compression is a for-sure for misfires. If you have low compression, you will get a misfire. But in all honestly, if you have low compression, a misfire should be the least of your concerns. To check your compression, take it to a dealership. It should only cost half/1 hour of labour at most, and will give you accurate results. Because of the fact that these are Rotary engines, you cannot get accurate results from a normal compression tester, as you have to check each face of each rotor for its separate values - In other words, get it done properly.
Solution #8: Repair, Rebuilt, Replace
Well, if you have lost compression, you have three (3) options: Sell the car, do/get an engine rebuild, or get a whole engine altogether. If you are still under warranty, time to visit the dealership for a new engine! Otherwise, save up around $2k for a used engine, and either install it yourself or get someone/some shop to do it for you.
For a quick-check to see if you may still be under warranty, see this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...rranty-147287/
Other Information
There are many preventative measures one can take to help, well, prevent misfires from occurring. Such idea's could include: Installing a catch can, replacing the coils and plugs when necessary (General maintenance), get a compression test once every year or so, reset your NVRAM or KAM when the car is running roughly, keeping a close eye on your CAT, etc.
One other thing, and definitely the most important tip of them all: Search these forums and use the information already here to your advantage. Too many times there are new threads started on topics that have been covered hundreds of times. This thread will furthermore be dedicated to everything Misfire related.
A FLASHING CEL IS ALWAYS A MISFIRE!!!
Don't believe me? Check the list of CEL codes from the OEM documentation. The 3 misfire codes are the only ones that have "flash" in the column about what to do with the CEL.
CEL List: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...n-guide-26291/
So because of the large amount of threads being started recently regarding misfires (CEL Codes P0300, P0301, P0302), I have created this thread for any of you sufferer’s to start at. This is a list of possible problems and solutions that you can carry out in order to diagnose and possibly fix your misfire. I want to note that these are in no particular order, and that each persons circumstances can vary; therefore I encourage reading over all the possibilites and going from there. The only one in any real position is #1, as Coils/Plugs/Wires is a common, but not always source of the issue.
Misfires can be caused by many problems in different areas of the car. Some are an easy fix with little to no cost, and others are major, such as loss of compression in one/multiple rotors.
Saying that, if you think that I have missed out on something, which I am quite sure I have, then please comment below and I will add into the list as time goes on.
Issue #1: Ignition (Can Include Coils, Wires, and Plugs)
The coils on the RX8 have long been known to cause problems and misfires in these cars. With an average lifespan of approximately 30,000 miles, the plugs should be changed on a regular basis. The coils as well will need changing, possibly around the same time. If you change the coils, always change the plugs as well. The wires too can have issues with them, as well as the harness's that connect to the back of each coil assembly.
Solution #1: New Coils, Plugs, Wires
There are many different types of replacements you can obtain to fix the burnt out coil/plug issue. You can buy OEM coils, or aftermarket. ALWAYS, I repeat, ALWAYS use the stock plugs in the car. They are properly designed for the right heat ranges. Do not go aftermarket, especially on an NA car.
If you are needing new coils, please do consider that if you go with Mazda OEM, you will again be having to replace them. There are other options out there, but my favorite would have to be the BHR Ignition, created by BHR. The coil packs are known to have an almost 0% failure rate, and you should not have to worry about replacing them again. Please note though, that the plugs will still have to be replaced as time goes on. This kit although will help your plugs last many, if not thousands of more miles than if running on the OEM coils. They also significantly help reduce/eliminate the chance of flooding the engine. To check the plugs, take them out and look at them. Brown is OK, but black and chunky is BAD. If you can take out the plugs, you can tell if there OK or not. Check the coils by attaching an inductive timing light to the wires and revving up the engine. If the light blinks faster and faster (Or intensifies), then the coils should be in OK working condition. There is now a link below to a thread created by TeamRX8.
Also check over the wires with an inductive timing light, as well as visual inspection. You should also be able to tell when you connect the wires on both the coils and plugs that they seat properly. The harness's on the back of the coil packs should also be checked; it may not be likely that these are damaged, but if you find that with an inductive timing light, one coil is not producing spark throughout the rpm range, it could be coil, wire, harness.
PLEASE NOTE: If you change the plugs, wires, and coils (Which you should do at the same time), then please, PLEASE remember to place the plugs in the proper spots and the wires to the proper coils/plugs!!
Links (DIY'S):
For testing the coils, I have pre-written a procedure above, but it is also good to visit this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
For changing the coils, click the below link and read Post #2
DIY: How to replace ignition coils - RX8Club.com
Or
Suffering From a Misfire? START HERE. - RX8Club.com
For changing the spark plugs, click the link below
DIY: Spark Plug change....... - RX8Club.com
Issue #2: MAF Sensor
It is not uncommon for the MAF sensor to become dirty inside the intake. Although this may not be the current issue directly related to the misfire, it can play a significant role. The MAF sensor is for Mass Air Flow measuring, which in short helps with your air/fuel ratio.
Solution #2: Clean or Replace
For the most part, you will most likely be able to clean your MAF sensor. There is a link included with more detailed instruction, but in short, remove the MAF sensor from the intake and spray the two prongs inside of the cylinder with Electrical Contact Cleaner. Be careful to not touch the sensor with your hands, either. Note that replacing the sensor may be necessary if it is damaged.
Links (DIY's):
For Cleaning the MAF
DIY: How to clean the MAF..... - RX8Club.com
Issue #3: Dirty ESS
A dirty ESS (E-shaft) can cause a misfire as well, which is related with NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory). You can
Solution #3: Clean ESS, Reset NVRAM
Also known as the “20 Brake Stomp”, this is an easy, quick, and free fix. Simply turn the car to On mode, and stomp the brake pedal 20 times within 8 seconds. If successful, the oil pressure gauge will sweep. Please Note: You must have the up-to-date ECU flash. Although older flashes do support this procedure, only the updated flashes (past few) will give the oil pressure gauge sweep confirmation.
As for cleaning the ESS, check out the links below
Links (DIY's):
Resetting the NVRAM is provided above.
For Cleaning the ESS
tired of searching ess cleaning - RX8Club.com --- Specifically post #6
Problem #4: Fuel Pump
The fuel pump is an obvious problem that can be directly related to a misfire. Although not too common for the fuel pumps to go, it has happened to many people. To check if the fuel pump is in working order, hook up the fuel line to a pressure gauge. If the pressure is Around 58 PSI, then you should be fine in this area.
Solution #4: Replace Fuel Pump
Title states it all - Replace the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is one of the problems, or the main one for that matter, get it replaced ASAP.
Problem #5: Fuel Pump Harness
The fuel pump’s harness can also be an issue. Whether damaged, corroded or completely destroyed for some reason, it will cause the fuel pump to not act properly or at all, therefore causing a misfire. Check is the same way as the fuel pump - If the pressure is off, you may be able to check the harness for proper connectivity by either just observing it or trying some sort of grounded light method on it.
Solution #5: Replace / Fix
If the wires are broken and you want to try it, solder the wires up. But I would highly recommend replacing the harness.
Problem #6: Low Fuel
Yupp, that’s right. Low fuel can cause fuel pump issues, which can cause a misfire. (And its not good to run your car on low fuel because it makes the job on the fuel pump significantly harder).
Solution #6: Fill Up
Fill up on gas (Premium of course
)Links (DIY's):
For filling up your Gas Tank
How to Fill Up Your Gas Tank | eHow.com
Problem #7: Bad / Clogged CAT
Many people will one day suffer from a bad or clogged Catalytic Converter (AKA 'Cat'). This is very easy to test out - On a night, and on a safe road, take your car for a hard drive. After that, look underneath your car and see if the Cat is glowing. If it is, its clogged. Also, you may notice a loss in power or acceleration.
If this does not work, the best way to inspect the Cat is to physically remove it and hold it towards the sun / point a flashlight into it. You should be able to see through it. When in doubt, visit the dealership.
Solution #7: Gut or Replace
If you are still under warranty, you can most likely get your Catalytic Converter replaced at no cost to you. If, like myself, you are not under warranty, you have two options: Gut the Cat, or Replace the Cat. To gut it, remove the Cat (Search in DIY), and gut it by pounding out everything inside of it. Make sure you do not hit the O2 sensor!!!
If you do not want to gut the Cat due to emissions, noise, or apparent smell, then either buy a Mazda OEM one and get it installed (Looking at upwards of at least $1k), or, replace it will a higher quality Midpipe, Resonater, High-Flow Cat, etc. You can find these from Racing Beat and other companies, although I would highly recommend the BHR Midpipe.
Links (DIY's):
For Removing and Gutting the Cat (Follow Same Procedure For Installing a New one if you are doing that)
DIY: Gutting out your Catalytic Converter - RX8Club.com
Problem #8: Low Compression
Low compression is a for-sure for misfires. If you have low compression, you will get a misfire. But in all honestly, if you have low compression, a misfire should be the least of your concerns. To check your compression, take it to a dealership. It should only cost half/1 hour of labour at most, and will give you accurate results. Because of the fact that these are Rotary engines, you cannot get accurate results from a normal compression tester, as you have to check each face of each rotor for its separate values - In other words, get it done properly.
Solution #8: Repair, Rebuilt, Replace
Well, if you have lost compression, you have three (3) options: Sell the car, do/get an engine rebuild, or get a whole engine altogether. If you are still under warranty, time to visit the dealership for a new engine! Otherwise, save up around $2k for a used engine, and either install it yourself or get someone/some shop to do it for you.
For a quick-check to see if you may still be under warranty, see this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...rranty-147287/
Other Information
There are many preventative measures one can take to help, well, prevent misfires from occurring. Such idea's could include: Installing a catch can, replacing the coils and plugs when necessary (General maintenance), get a compression test once every year or so, reset your NVRAM or KAM when the car is running roughly, keeping a close eye on your CAT, etc.
One other thing, and definitely the most important tip of them all: Search these forums and use the information already here to your advantage. Too many times there are new threads started on topics that have been covered hundreds of times. This thread will furthermore be dedicated to everything Misfire related.
08-21-2014, 07:07 PM
#187
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Hey guys, looking for a bit of advice here. I read the whole thread but I'm confused. It sounds like most times when a misfire shows up, the CEL is flashing and is only at specific rpms or during certain occasions based on the problem.
Quick story since I'm not sure if you can see my signature when I post from mobile. I bought my completely stock 09 GT MT about two weeks ago certified preowned from a Mazda dealership. They said they had done a compression test on it, but I never received the results. I know I was silly to leave without the test results but all I really wanted to do was drive my new car.
About three days ago my boyfriend and I went to get food and do some errands (aka a bit of spirited driving for both of us), my car was completely fine when we got food, on the way to the bank I hit redline through 3rd, car felt wonderful. When I started my car after we left the bank, the CEL came on and stayed on solid, but the car didn't feel like it was driving any different. We had been on the way home to drop off his car because we had been about to head to the dealership (45 minute drive one way and both our cars get terrible mileage) to harass them some more about the compression test.
Anyway, went to autozone instead to get the code read. The only thing showing up was P0301. Drove home and parked the car, haven't drove it since because I don't want to make the problem worse.
My car idles a bit weird hot or cold, goes between about 1000rpm and 750-800rpm at no specific intervals. It also takes 2-3 seconds of cranking to start, hot or cold. Now I had intended to replace plugs/coils/wires because I'm not sure when that was done, if ever, but I don't want to replace them and then find out the engine is gone. And yes, I have annoyed the dealership to the point where they're going to do the test again/for the first time, for free whenever I get back from this trip.
So questions, if the CEL is on solid, does that mean that it's not likely to actually be a misfire, or is it worse if it's on all the time?
Second, in you're opinion, would it be better to go ahead and order the plugs/coils/wires, or should I wait till after the compression test is done? Assuming that if the engine is gone and they replace it under warranty that I'll get all new stuff with it.
Third, said boyfriend swears by the Lucas oil fuel injector cleaner for his old mustang, is that ok to use in our engines and could it possibly help the 8s issue?
And finally, like I said, the dealership is about a 45 minute drive one way, is it a bad idea to drive my 8 that far when I don't know precisely what the issue is? But I don't want to tow it to the dealership and leave it there because I don't want them to work on it nor do I want to PAY them to work on it.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you as much information as possible. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions that you can give!
Quick story since I'm not sure if you can see my signature when I post from mobile. I bought my completely stock 09 GT MT about two weeks ago certified preowned from a Mazda dealership. They said they had done a compression test on it, but I never received the results. I know I was silly to leave without the test results but all I really wanted to do was drive my new car.
About three days ago my boyfriend and I went to get food and do some errands (aka a bit of spirited driving for both of us), my car was completely fine when we got food, on the way to the bank I hit redline through 3rd, car felt wonderful. When I started my car after we left the bank, the CEL came on and stayed on solid, but the car didn't feel like it was driving any different. We had been on the way home to drop off his car because we had been about to head to the dealership (45 minute drive one way and both our cars get terrible mileage) to harass them some more about the compression test.
Anyway, went to autozone instead to get the code read. The only thing showing up was P0301. Drove home and parked the car, haven't drove it since because I don't want to make the problem worse.
My car idles a bit weird hot or cold, goes between about 1000rpm and 750-800rpm at no specific intervals. It also takes 2-3 seconds of cranking to start, hot or cold. Now I had intended to replace plugs/coils/wires because I'm not sure when that was done, if ever, but I don't want to replace them and then find out the engine is gone. And yes, I have annoyed the dealership to the point where they're going to do the test again/for the first time, for free whenever I get back from this trip.
So questions, if the CEL is on solid, does that mean that it's not likely to actually be a misfire, or is it worse if it's on all the time?
Second, in you're opinion, would it be better to go ahead and order the plugs/coils/wires, or should I wait till after the compression test is done? Assuming that if the engine is gone and they replace it under warranty that I'll get all new stuff with it.
Third, said boyfriend swears by the Lucas oil fuel injector cleaner for his old mustang, is that ok to use in our engines and could it possibly help the 8s issue?
And finally, like I said, the dealership is about a 45 minute drive one way, is it a bad idea to drive my 8 that far when I don't know precisely what the issue is? But I don't want to tow it to the dealership and leave it there because I don't want them to work on it nor do I want to PAY them to work on it.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you as much information as possible. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions that you can give!
08-21-2014, 07:15 PM
#188
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Oh, and also I had just filled up my tank for the second time the night before after letting it get to the point where the gas light came on (mostly for my knowledge about when it would come on). I'm not sure what grade they filled it up with when they sold it to me. Could the engine be reacting badly to the mix of mostly premium and *maybe* some leftover regular?
Edit: 60k on the odometer, to my knowledge the engine has not been replaced before.
Edit: 60k on the odometer, to my knowledge the engine has not been replaced before.
Last edited by Drazil; 08-21-2014 at 07:25 PM.
08-31-2014, 09:18 AM
#189
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hi there ~ been puzzled after reading the thread. i own a JDM 2003 mazda rx8 and the CEL misfiring code keeps popping out even after changing plugs ,coils and wires. But it does not flash , not even once and i do not feel a lack of power.. maybe it is just the JDM model which is like that?
09-11-2014, 07:32 PM
#190
hi there ~ been puzzled after reading the thread. i own a JDM 2003 mazda rx8 and the CEL misfiring code keeps popping out even after changing plugs ,coils and wires. But it does not flash , not even once and i do not feel a lack of power.. maybe it is just the JDM model which is like that?
A FLASHING CEL is the sign of a misfire. Did you have the codes checked and they came up as 30#?
09-11-2014, 07:36 PM
#191
Oh, and also I had just filled up my tank for the second time the night before after letting it get to the point where the gas light came on (mostly for my knowledge about when it would come on). I'm not sure what grade they filled it up with when they sold it to me. Could the engine be reacting badly to the mix of mostly premium and *maybe* some leftover regular?
Edit: 60k on the odometer, to my knowledge the engine has not been replaced before.
Edit: 60k on the odometer, to my knowledge the engine has not been replaced before.
Make sure you run premium, that could cause a bit of hiccups for sure.
As for what is going on - get those results first. If they did the test, it should just be a phone call to get the numbers. Replacing the coils and plugs and wires is always a good idea if you are unsure if and when they were last replaced - it's a preventative maintenance at the least and a worth while one at that.
I personally wouldn't use the injector cleaner on this car, but I will let some others pipe in on that specific part.
If the car starts fine hot and cold and drives fine, then there should be nothing stopping you from driving it. Might be worth checking out the CAT (if you cant take it off to check, drive the car hard and see if its glowing underneath). Also, if you have access to an inductive timing light you could hook that up to your wires to check the plugs/coils/wires all at once - but again, I would recommend replacing if you don't know the maintenance history. Not everyone will agree with me on that one, mainly because I'm just like that.
11-23-2014, 02:29 PM
#192
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Misfire Problem
I have a Mazda Rx 8 2005 1.3 Manual 6 speed. With 100826 miles
I have check the Crankshaft Sensor and the spark plug do make fire, but a the moment they are inside the motor it stop working.
By any chance do anyone know whats the resistance of he knock sensor to check if it failing.
Thanks in advance.
I have check the Crankshaft Sensor and the spark plug do make fire, but a the moment they are inside the motor it stop working.
By any chance do anyone know whats the resistance of he knock sensor to check if it failing.
Thanks in advance.
11-23-2014, 04:05 PM
#193
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Which is Cylinder/Rotor 1?
Hello Guys.
My RX8 is misfiring and after flashing for a very short while the engine management light has come on permanently, which is sad as the coils and plugs are less than 10k miles old.
The EBCD standard fault code for my RX8 states it is misfiring on cylinder (which in the RX8 case will be rotor) 1 - but which rotor is rotor 1? Front or back?
Cheers
David
My RX8 is misfiring and after flashing for a very short while the engine management light has come on permanently, which is sad as the coils and plugs are less than 10k miles old.
The EBCD standard fault code for my RX8 states it is misfiring on cylinder (which in the RX8 case will be rotor) 1 - but which rotor is rotor 1? Front or back?
Cheers
David
11-23-2014, 04:31 PM
#194
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I have a Mazda Rx 8 2005 1.3 Manual 6 speed. With 100826 miles
I have check the Crankshaft Sensor and the spark plug do make fire, but a the moment they are inside the motor it stop working.
By any chance do anyone know whats the resistance of he knock sensor to check if it failing.
Thanks in advance.
I have check the Crankshaft Sensor and the spark plug do make fire, but a the moment they are inside the motor it stop working.
By any chance do anyone know whats the resistance of he knock sensor to check if it failing.
Thanks in advance.
Hello Guys.
My RX8 is misfiring and after flashing for a very short while the engine management light has come on permanently, which is sad as the coils and plugs are less than 10k miles old.
The EBCD standard fault code for my RX8 states it is misfiring on cylinder (which in the RX8 case will be rotor) 1 - but which rotor is rotor 1? Front or back?
Cheers
David
My RX8 is misfiring and after flashing for a very short while the engine management light has come on permanently, which is sad as the coils and plugs are less than 10k miles old.
The EBCD standard fault code for my RX8 states it is misfiring on cylinder (which in the RX8 case will be rotor) 1 - but which rotor is rotor 1? Front or back?
Cheers
David
There are usually easy answers for why there might be misfires this early if it is the ignition. Ebay coils, a wire worked loose or popped off, a plug cracked, or your driving behavior has fouled a front plug.
Easy enough to test the coils and wires with a $5 spark tester and a visual check on the plugs.
11-23-2014, 07:25 PM
#195
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Thanks for your help RIWWP. I did get a P0300 first so I will clear the faults and see what I get next! Hopefully it will be just P0301 as otherwise it is tricky to understand why both rotors should suddenly have ignition problems.
Last edited by Jzero; 11-23-2014 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Included original reply as part of my post.
11-23-2014, 07:30 PM
#196
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If it's affecting both rotors, then it's going to be something common to both rotors. Like a dirty MAF, fouled ESS, fuel trim problem, vacuum leak, clogged cat, grounding problem, etc...
11-24-2014, 04:03 AM
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Misfire starts at 2/3,000 revs and under load the engine will not rev above this on big throttle openings - so foot to floor in third at 3000 it will not rev above 3000 - but it will rev further if gentle on the pedal. Misfire started suddenly, it is not something that got worse over time. The misfire was evident before the engine warning light came on.
I will check the coils and plugs and have ordered some new leads, a vain hope I suspect: given their price it is pound to a penny the cat has failed!
I will check the coils and plugs and have ordered some new leads, a vain hope I suspect: given their price it is pound to a penny the cat has failed!
12-25-2014, 09:40 AM
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Misfire starts at 2/3,000 revs and under load the engine will not rev above this on big throttle openings - so foot to floor in third at 3000 it will not rev above 3000 - but it will rev further if gentle on the pedal. Misfire started suddenly, it is not something that got worse over time. The misfire was evident before the engine warning light came on.
I will check the coils and plugs and have ordered some new leads, a vain hope I suspect: given their price it is pound to a penny the cat has failed!
I will check the coils and plugs and have ordered some new leads, a vain hope I suspect: given their price it is pound to a penny the cat has failed!
However, the initial thing I did was tow the 8 to the nearest Mazda dealership and they had a look. Finds out it was compression loss and a seal went out. :[
Mines an 04.
Yay for insurance :D
01-07-2015, 07:23 PM
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I have a 2004 Rx8 and it won't pass emissions this year, real high HC 1700000 (how ever many 000s) and nox is a bit high. I replaced the engine in 2013, bought it from Mazda but someone else installed it. When I got it back from the replacement the engine light was blinking and was told by the mechanic it was a coil going bad...but if no loss of power, don't worry. Only 2200 miles on the new engine. Now, after spark plugs, wires, coils, oxygen sensors, all that, it still won't pass. I took it to a dealer and they said the PCM was bad. Monster bill for that if I replace it. They said it was rare. My question is...if you replace my rotary engine, wouldn't you have to re-code the PCM for that engine that might not be exactly the same? Maybe not but the replacement guy did not have the technology to do that. The code says it has a cylinder 2 misfire and I was promised by a dealer and another mechanic that they could assure me why it wouldn't pass emissions. They did not. Of course that cost a lot too. If I replace the PCM, the dealer told me that might not be it. Really? We have to do that first but no promises...really? I LOVE my car and will spend what it takes but I don't wanna be a fool. Now I am taking it to the State of Colorado mechanic on Friday. The car runs GREAT, it purrs like a cat but does use a LOT of gas, gets about 12mpg in the city.
Last edited by Caroljesus33; 01-07-2015 at 07:38 PM. Reason: I omitted some things that might be important to someone helping me
01-07-2015, 07:30 PM
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Most likely, the shop that did the engine replacement didn't reset the ECU. Search for 20-brake-pedal-stomp, you need the e-shaft profile reset is the main thing.
If that doesn't solve it, then the 2nd most common problem is that they would have connected up the injectors wrong.
Both are incredibly common problems post-engine replacement.
If that doesn't solve it, then the 2nd most common problem is that they would have connected up the injectors wrong.
Both are incredibly common problems post-engine replacement.