rx8 reliability mods (cheap and DIY)
10-31-2006, 09:51 AM
#26
Got Another Rotary
Originally Posted by silverwolf
now lets go into where to buy Idemitsu premix and fp60
http://www.lubecontrol.com/
Idemitsu can be bought from Rotary Performance at the link below:
http://www.rx7.com/store/rx8/rx8engine_maintenance.html
10-31-2006, 02:42 PM
#27
Lubricious
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Originally Posted by Coop '04
Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench.
Lubrication will allow the bolt to make more turns before reaching a given torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. Thus, there will be more strain and elongation of the lubricated bolt. The RX-8 torque specs for the wheel lugs is quite high. If you torque to that value with lubricated threads you may very well exceed the limits of the bolts. This is one reason why wheel lugs should not be lubricated.
Now we'll see a few posts of people who "always lubricate my wheel lugs and never have any problems", but does not invalidate my point.
10-31-2006, 03:55 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Nubo
Lubrication will allow the bolt to make more turns before reaching a given torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. Thus, there will be more strain and elongation of the lubricated bolt.
So a rusty nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's is torqued less than a lubricated nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's
Sorry, just not how it works...
10-31-2006, 06:28 PM
#29
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Coop, you're misunderstanding the point of torque. It's not actually the torque that matters. It's the stretch of the fastener.
Torque on the nut is actually a very poor measure of fastener stretch because the friction on the threads is a huge portion of the resistance. If you change this friction, you'll end up with wildly varying amounts of stretch in the bolt for the same amount of applied torque.
Yes, the torque applied to the outside of the nut is the same in all cases. The number of turns the nut makes before reaching that torque will change a lot based on friction, and the number of turns is actually what you want to control because it relates more to bolt stretch.
Look up anti-seize manufacturers and you'll see they usually tell you to torque x% less when using their product, but even this is a pretty poor estimate.
Torque on the nut is actually a very poor measure of fastener stretch because the friction on the threads is a huge portion of the resistance. If you change this friction, you'll end up with wildly varying amounts of stretch in the bolt for the same amount of applied torque.
Yes, the torque applied to the outside of the nut is the same in all cases. The number of turns the nut makes before reaching that torque will change a lot based on friction, and the number of turns is actually what you want to control because it relates more to bolt stretch.
Look up anti-seize manufacturers and you'll see they usually tell you to torque x% less when using their product, but even this is a pretty poor estimate.
10-31-2006, 06:38 PM
#30
Metatron
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Torque about it......
For most bolts, thread lubrication before torquing is OK, when new there is no rust and probably a little residual lube present.
The actual contact face of the stud must stay clean and unlubed or risk loosening.
S
The actual contact face of the stud must stay clean and unlubed or risk loosening.
S
10-31-2006, 07:55 PM
#31
Registered
Years ago I had a couple of annoying experiences with lug nuts that would not come off - they were frozen in place. No overt corrosion - just the customary grey patina - but they wouldn't budge with normal lug wrenches. One took an impact wrench to remove, the other took a breaker bar along with a Sacred Ceremonial Cheater.
Ever since then I've always lubed lug nuts, both the thread and the tapered seat. Just a drop of engine oil. (Good supply at the end of the dipstick if I was roadside.) Tighten to specs with a torque wrench. Never had one come off or even seem to be looser than it should have been.
Generally, when the amount of tightening is critical, the torque spec is for a lubricated bolt. For example, one always lubricates head bolts. Torquing a dry fastener is pretty unpredictable. I suspect that lug nuts are speced dry because people are not likely to lubricate when they change a flat tire.
Ken
Ever since then I've always lubed lug nuts, both the thread and the tapered seat. Just a drop of engine oil. (Good supply at the end of the dipstick if I was roadside.) Tighten to specs with a torque wrench. Never had one come off or even seem to be looser than it should have been.
Generally, when the amount of tightening is critical, the torque spec is for a lubricated bolt. For example, one always lubricates head bolts. Torquing a dry fastener is pretty unpredictable. I suspect that lug nuts are speced dry because people are not likely to lubricate when they change a flat tire.
Ken
11-21-2006, 09:10 AM
#33
Got Another Rotary
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
Exactly - using better 2-cycle oil (pure Idemitsu Premix, not diluted) instead of crankcase oil to feed the OMP will provide better and cleaner burning lubrication from the start. Adding FP60 into the gas (in addition to the mod), provides some additional lubrication benefits, but with the additional benefit of superb cleaning which is just as important to prevent carbon buildup.
This is my recipe for a long lasting, clean running engine. Other's may work as well, but IMHO from all that I have read on this forum and others, this is my plan.
This is my recipe for a long lasting, clean running engine. Other's may work as well, but IMHO from all that I have read on this forum and others, this is my plan.
I have noticed that the 8 now seems to be burning much, much cleaner as it has almost totally eliminated any exhaust tip carbon (original exhaust as I have not received the Hymee exhaust I ordered yet). There is almost no carbon now and what is there is lighter in color - which indicates to me a much more complete, cleaner burning combustion.
I highly recommend this duo formula to others as well.
11-21-2006, 01:15 PM
#35
Got Another Rotary
Originally Posted by sonicblue6
Did you buy the Adapter and the "Adjuster"?
But for others that want/need even more lubrication, especially FI engines, the adjuster would be a very good add-on as it is only about $20 more.
09-22-2014, 09:28 PM
#37
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[QUOTE=Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench.
Never use anti-seize (copper coat) on wheel studs or hubs, wi never properly torque and causes things to come loose. Personal experience from being a tire technician for ever, so many times customers install own wheels with copper coat and their wheels come loose
Never use anti-seize (copper coat) on wheel studs or hubs, wi never properly torque and causes things to come loose. Personal experience from being a tire technician for ever, so many times customers install own wheels with copper coat and their wheels come loose
09-23-2014, 08:13 AM
#38
Registered
Little offtopic sorry ...
@sonicblue6: If u use the Adjuster the ECU will go into limp mode so u Need to work
around ... ist not needed for the RX-8 .. u can adjust the amount in the ECU.
Oh .. and antiseize on wheelstuds is forbidden in Germany ... just fyi
Greetings
Thomas
@sonicblue6: If u use the Adjuster the ECU will go into limp mode so u Need to work
around ... ist not needed for the RX-8 .. u can adjust the amount in the ECU.
Oh .. and antiseize on wheelstuds is forbidden in Germany ... just fyi
Greetings
Thomas
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