Royal Purple's view on synthetics in the rotary engine
03-06-2004, 08:46 PM
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Royal Purple's view on synthetics in the rotary engine
I didn't see this anywhere else so I apologize if this has been posted already. Royal Purple added a section to their FAQ page that deals specifically with the rotary engine. I'll just copy and paste it below.
"Rotary Engines
Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?
Yes. A rotary engine is a modified four cycle engine that recommends the use of an API licensed motor oil for street applications.
More information and FAQs on lubrication of Rotary Engines:
In a rotary engine, the oil lubricates the eccentric shaft bearings, thrust needle bearings and rotor bearings similar to a crank and rod bearing of a piston engine as well as being injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex seals, corner seals, and side seals helping to create the sealing mechanism doing the equivalent job of the piston rings.
Royal Purple provides outstanding protection for the e-shaft, rotor bearings, thrust bearings and is suitable for the oil injection system as it has proven to run cleaner than other oils and is an excellent choice for rotary apex seals, corner seals, and side seals.
Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?
Royal Purple has performed seal compatibility testing on the components used in a rotary with excellent results, including older rotary engine seals dating back to the Cosmo. Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
In the early development of synthetic oils decades ago, there were purportedly some seal compatibility issues. Today’s synthetic oils do not have the compatibility issues of the old oils. There is no substantiated evidence of seal compatibility issues with Royal Purple.
Here are some facts:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 26B 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
I heard that synthetic oil doesn't burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits.
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal, and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil actually burns cleaner due to the synthetic base stock being free of contamination and many of the additives being ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil does burn at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged. (500 – 1700° F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)
Will the synthetic oil effect the oil seals?
No. Royal Purple’s Motor Oil is fully compatible with the elastomers found in rotary engines as well as more conventional piston engines. The oil seals, housing seals and other elastomers used in rotary engines typically consist of Buna N, Nitriles, Neoprene, or Viton materials which are also commonly found in piston engine cars.
I hear that synthetic is ‘thinner or lighter’ oil, is there a greater possibility that the oil will leak between the seals?
No. If an engine’s sealing surfaces are in good condition, synthetic oil should not cause any leakage. However, if an engine has marginal seals, there is a 50/50 chance the seals will leak less or more. A synthetic motor oil is going to have similar viscosity to that of a conventional motor oil – except at extreme temperatures. Due to a flatter viscosity curve, at low temperatures it will not thicken as much (easier winter cranking) and it does not thin out as quickly at higher operating temperatures (better oil film at higher rpm).
Should I go longer or shorter between oil changes?
Royal Purple recommends that the maximum oil drain / filter change interval listed in the Owner’s Manual be followed while under warranty (new RX8). For SA, FB, FC, FC Turbos, and FD rotaries, extending drain intervals from two to five fold is possible if desired. Since the rotary engine injects oil through the use of a metered oil pump, either adding oil into the carb base plate air / fuel mixture or directly injecting oil into the rotor housing, rotary engines will consume oil of one quart per 1000 – 3000 miles. It is important to maintain the proper crankcase oil level in your rotary engine if you decide to extend oil drain intervals.
If I pre-mix my fuel for the rotary engine, do I use the same ratio as with mineral based oils? Does it burn at the same rate?
In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings, and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard TCW III 2 Cycle Oil if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending on which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous, turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our Racing 2 Cycle TCW III product or the standard 2 Cycle TCW III can also be used.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich)."
I think that about sums it up nicely! Thanks Royal Purple!
RG
"Rotary Engines
Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?
Yes. A rotary engine is a modified four cycle engine that recommends the use of an API licensed motor oil for street applications.
More information and FAQs on lubrication of Rotary Engines:
In a rotary engine, the oil lubricates the eccentric shaft bearings, thrust needle bearings and rotor bearings similar to a crank and rod bearing of a piston engine as well as being injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex seals, corner seals, and side seals helping to create the sealing mechanism doing the equivalent job of the piston rings.
Royal Purple provides outstanding protection for the e-shaft, rotor bearings, thrust bearings and is suitable for the oil injection system as it has proven to run cleaner than other oils and is an excellent choice for rotary apex seals, corner seals, and side seals.
Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?
Royal Purple has performed seal compatibility testing on the components used in a rotary with excellent results, including older rotary engine seals dating back to the Cosmo. Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
In the early development of synthetic oils decades ago, there were purportedly some seal compatibility issues. Today’s synthetic oils do not have the compatibility issues of the old oils. There is no substantiated evidence of seal compatibility issues with Royal Purple.
Here are some facts:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 26B 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
I heard that synthetic oil doesn't burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits.
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal, and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil actually burns cleaner due to the synthetic base stock being free of contamination and many of the additives being ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil does burn at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged. (500 – 1700° F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)
Will the synthetic oil effect the oil seals?
No. Royal Purple’s Motor Oil is fully compatible with the elastomers found in rotary engines as well as more conventional piston engines. The oil seals, housing seals and other elastomers used in rotary engines typically consist of Buna N, Nitriles, Neoprene, or Viton materials which are also commonly found in piston engine cars.
I hear that synthetic is ‘thinner or lighter’ oil, is there a greater possibility that the oil will leak between the seals?
No. If an engine’s sealing surfaces are in good condition, synthetic oil should not cause any leakage. However, if an engine has marginal seals, there is a 50/50 chance the seals will leak less or more. A synthetic motor oil is going to have similar viscosity to that of a conventional motor oil – except at extreme temperatures. Due to a flatter viscosity curve, at low temperatures it will not thicken as much (easier winter cranking) and it does not thin out as quickly at higher operating temperatures (better oil film at higher rpm).
Should I go longer or shorter between oil changes?
Royal Purple recommends that the maximum oil drain / filter change interval listed in the Owner’s Manual be followed while under warranty (new RX8). For SA, FB, FC, FC Turbos, and FD rotaries, extending drain intervals from two to five fold is possible if desired. Since the rotary engine injects oil through the use of a metered oil pump, either adding oil into the carb base plate air / fuel mixture or directly injecting oil into the rotor housing, rotary engines will consume oil of one quart per 1000 – 3000 miles. It is important to maintain the proper crankcase oil level in your rotary engine if you decide to extend oil drain intervals.
If I pre-mix my fuel for the rotary engine, do I use the same ratio as with mineral based oils? Does it burn at the same rate?
In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings, and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard TCW III 2 Cycle Oil if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending on which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous, turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our Racing 2 Cycle TCW III product or the standard 2 Cycle TCW III can also be used.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich)."
I think that about sums it up nicely! Thanks Royal Purple!
RG
Good stuff....
03-07-2004, 10:44 AM
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As taken from this source :
A special synthetic oil was developed by Idemitsu Kosan Co. just for the Le Mans race. It has a polyalphaolefin base with a detergent inhibitor package and a molybdenum friction reducer. A street version of this oil called "Rotary 1", meeting API specifications, became available in 1996 in 1-liter and 4-liter tins painted like the Le Mans winner. Be warned that it's incredibly expensive: $38 per LITER (1999) or $133 for 4 liters.
----
Unfortunately the links for this oil aren't working anymore.. I wouldn't mind having a can with the 787 color scheme just for decoration!
A special synthetic oil was developed by Idemitsu Kosan Co. just for the Le Mans race. It has a polyalphaolefin base with a detergent inhibitor package and a molybdenum friction reducer. A street version of this oil called "Rotary 1", meeting API specifications, became available in 1996 in 1-liter and 4-liter tins painted like the Le Mans winner. Be warned that it's incredibly expensive: $38 per LITER (1999) or $133 for 4 liters.
----
Unfortunately the links for this oil aren't working anymore.. I wouldn't mind having a can with the 787 color scheme just for decoration!
03-07-2004, 01:13 PM
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Originally posted by ranger4277
As taken from this source :
A special synthetic oil was developed by Idemitsu Kosan Co. just for the Le Mans race. It has a polyalphaolefin base with a detergent inhibitor package and a molybdenum friction reducer. A street version of this oil called "Rotary 1", meeting API specifications, became available in 1996 in 1-liter and 4-liter tins painted like the Le Mans winner. Be warned that it's incredibly expensive: $38 per LITER (1999) or $133 for 4 liters.
----
Unfortunately the links for this oil aren't working anymore.. I wouldn't mind having a can with the 787 color scheme just for decoration!
As taken from this source :
A special synthetic oil was developed by Idemitsu Kosan Co. just for the Le Mans race. It has a polyalphaolefin base with a detergent inhibitor package and a molybdenum friction reducer. A street version of this oil called "Rotary 1", meeting API specifications, became available in 1996 in 1-liter and 4-liter tins painted like the Le Mans winner. Be warned that it's incredibly expensive: $38 per LITER (1999) or $133 for 4 liters.
----
Unfortunately the links for this oil aren't working anymore.. I wouldn't mind having a can with the 787 color scheme just for decoration!
a "polyalphaolefin base " is a normal group IV PAO synthetic base stock, a "molybdenum friction reducer" is just an ordinary friction reducer package most manufacturers use, and it has a detergent package like everybody else....
if only a company would get serious and make a real rotary oil - an oil that gasoline isn't soluable in, will resist foaming and water retention, and offer great wear resistance... unfortunetly I know a formulation that was this, but never made it past the beancounters at a particular oil company... maybe one day
03-07-2004, 05:49 PM
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Here in Fort Lauderdale Speed and Truck World carries it. There's a guy on Ebay who sells it cheaper though, even with shipping factored in.
One thing I don't know...does RP make the specified weight for the RX-8?
jds
One thing I don't know...does RP make the specified weight for the RX-8?
jds
Originally posted by islandsoon
So, where do you guys find Royal Purple?
So, where do you guys find Royal Purple?
04-14-2004, 08:37 AM
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I originally posted this on the Australian Forum. Someone pasted it on the Tech garage forum, but I'll add it here for those who have yet to read it....
Finally got an answer to this age old question, and an official answer at that.
I have a copy of a parts bulletin, distributed to all dealers, for circulation to Dealer Principal, Parts Manager, and Service Manager which reads as follows: (Sorry, can't copy it onto the forum yet...technical issues!!!)
Dated 17-9-03!!!!!!
Quote:
Due to some misunderstandings in the field in relation to the use of Synthetic and Mineral oils in rotary engines, National Technical Dept have created this Tech Tip in order to assist your staff with enquiries.
Pre- Renesis:
All Pre-Renesis engines have a set of oil control seals in the sides of the rotors, which are designed to keep oil from the lubrication system out of the combustion chambers. Each seal consists of a metal scraper with a rubber o-ring within.
MC advise this o-ring is not compatable with synthetic oils (or synthetic/mineral blends) and that such oils can attack the material in o-rings, causing them to break down and deteriorate. Should this occur, excessive amounts of oil would be drawn into the combustion chambers causing high oil consumtion, smoke from the exhaust, fouled spark plugs and reduced engine life.Therefore, synthetic oils or blends are prohibited and only mineral oils must be used in early rotary engines.
Renesis engine:
This engine has similar seals, which perform the same function as with the Pre-Renesis engines, however, the o-rings are constructed with a completely new type of material that has improved longevity and compatibility with synthetic oils.
While such oils are not prohibited from being used in this engine, MC still advises that mineral oils are more suitable for these engines. This is why MA will be importing mineral based 5W30 engine oil.
Genuine MC Engine oil for Rotary Engines:
We are currently in the process of sourcing genuine MC oil from Japan. This is a straight mineral oil with a viscosity of 5W30. There is quite an involved process to import this oil and then decanter it, which is the reason for the delay in supply to dealers. When available, this oil will be dedicated for rotary use, whether Renesis or early models and only available to the parts departments of our dealer network in 5 litre and 1 litre packs.
We will advise part numbers as soon as stock is available for sales.
Aldo Schepis
Part Business Manager.
End Quote.
Guy's the key info imparted here IMHO is the use of the words "improved longevity and compatibility". Mazda know their engine better than ANYONE, if long term durability isn't an issue with you, pay more and freely use a synthetic! BTW, Mazda Rotary Oil is now avail in Oz @ AUD$55 for 5Ltrs....Its been decantered into a Castrol container.
Regards, Gomez.
Finally got an answer to this age old question, and an official answer at that.
I have a copy of a parts bulletin, distributed to all dealers, for circulation to Dealer Principal, Parts Manager, and Service Manager which reads as follows: (Sorry, can't copy it onto the forum yet...technical issues!!!)
Dated 17-9-03!!!!!!
Quote:
Due to some misunderstandings in the field in relation to the use of Synthetic and Mineral oils in rotary engines, National Technical Dept have created this Tech Tip in order to assist your staff with enquiries.
Pre- Renesis:
All Pre-Renesis engines have a set of oil control seals in the sides of the rotors, which are designed to keep oil from the lubrication system out of the combustion chambers. Each seal consists of a metal scraper with a rubber o-ring within.
MC advise this o-ring is not compatable with synthetic oils (or synthetic/mineral blends) and that such oils can attack the material in o-rings, causing them to break down and deteriorate. Should this occur, excessive amounts of oil would be drawn into the combustion chambers causing high oil consumtion, smoke from the exhaust, fouled spark plugs and reduced engine life.Therefore, synthetic oils or blends are prohibited and only mineral oils must be used in early rotary engines.
Renesis engine:
This engine has similar seals, which perform the same function as with the Pre-Renesis engines, however, the o-rings are constructed with a completely new type of material that has improved longevity and compatibility with synthetic oils.
While such oils are not prohibited from being used in this engine, MC still advises that mineral oils are more suitable for these engines. This is why MA will be importing mineral based 5W30 engine oil.
Genuine MC Engine oil for Rotary Engines:
We are currently in the process of sourcing genuine MC oil from Japan. This is a straight mineral oil with a viscosity of 5W30. There is quite an involved process to import this oil and then decanter it, which is the reason for the delay in supply to dealers. When available, this oil will be dedicated for rotary use, whether Renesis or early models and only available to the parts departments of our dealer network in 5 litre and 1 litre packs.
We will advise part numbers as soon as stock is available for sales.
Aldo Schepis
Part Business Manager.
End Quote.
Guy's the key info imparted here IMHO is the use of the words "improved longevity and compatibility". Mazda know their engine better than ANYONE, if long term durability isn't an issue with you, pay more and freely use a synthetic! BTW, Mazda Rotary Oil is now avail in Oz @ AUD$55 for 5Ltrs....Its been decantered into a Castrol container.
Regards, Gomez.
04-14-2004, 11:16 AM
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I wish Royal Purple and Mazda would just don the gloves and duke it out. Someone should do a test that proves squarely that synthetic oil eats these seals and o-rings. I personally don't believe it, and have seen plenty of anecdotal evidence that it does not, while seeing nada to imply that it does, save statements like this. Sorry, I'm just not buying it. That said, I'm not convinced that the benefits outweigh the risks, especially in a normally aspirated motor like the Renesis.
jds
jds
04-14-2004, 12:21 PM
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I've used synthetics in my RX-7's and never had any seal issues. I know several others that have too with no problems. It just sounds like Mazda needed an excuse and figured that a majority of the people would not have experience with synthetics and the older engines and would believe this. Remember they used synthetics in many of their race cars including the LeMans 787B.
04-16-2004, 09:38 PM
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I have sheduled a dyno session on Thurs 4/22/04. I have baselined the car at 1000miles. I just installed Stage 1 Canzoomer mod and want to test it. The big reason is b/c I was invited to test [before and after] royal purple in my car. They claim it will increase HP and protect the engine better.
We shall see.
I expect to do several pulls:
1. With the 5W20 or whatever Mazda puts in it - CZ1 off.
2. ...CZ1 - ON
3. Change to Royal Purple, CZ1 ON
4. Royal Purple CZ1 OFF
We shall see.
I expect to do several pulls:
1. With the 5W20 or whatever Mazda puts in it - CZ1 off.
2. ...CZ1 - ON
3. Change to Royal Purple, CZ1 ON
4. Royal Purple CZ1 OFF
04-16-2004, 09:48 PM
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That will be great. Not only the first independently published dyno runs of CZ stage 1, but pulls before and after the purple stuff. Look forward to seeing your results!
04-16-2004, 10:48 PM
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Racing Beat noted an increase in horsepower in the RX-7 when using Royal Purple, but I wouldn't expect anything major. It was noteworthy in that there really should be no expectation of any power gain. I don't know what your expectations are exactly, but I doubt this will be considered a major power adder
jds
jds
04-17-2004, 09:09 AM
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Originally posted by Gomez
[...]Guy's the key info imparted here IMHO is the use of the words "improved longevity and compatibility". Mazda know their engine better than ANYONE, if long term durability isn't an issue with you, pay more and freely use a synthetic![...]
[...]Guy's the key info imparted here IMHO is the use of the words "improved longevity and compatibility". Mazda know their engine better than ANYONE, if long term durability isn't an issue with you, pay more and freely use a synthetic![...]
I can see that if you're inclined to be in favor of non-synthetic you can take comfort in this interpretation; similarly, those that believe the oil analysis and wear testing results showing synthetics provide superior performance in every way can also take comfort with that very same statement from Mazda.
Like Gordon oft points out at times like this, the manual states the specific oil weight and API requirements only -- something quite different from previous editions.
04-17-2004, 05:14 PM
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Originally posted by jdl
Like Gordon oft points out at times like this, the manual states the specific oil weight and API requirements only -- something quite different from previous editions.
Like Gordon oft points out at times like this, the manual states the specific oil weight and API requirements only -- something quite different from previous editions.
That said, I fail to see how any characteristic of synthetic makes it less suited to a rotary... better oil is simply better!
Regards,
Gordon
04-18-2004, 10:16 AM
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Originally posted by 1stRX8
I have sheduled a dyno session on Thurs 4/22/04. I have baselined the car at 1000miles. I just installed Stage 1 Canzoomer mod and want to test it. The big reason is b/c I was invited to test [before and after] royal purple in my car. They claim it will increase HP and protect the engine better.
We shall see.
I expect to do several pulls:
1. With the 5W20 or whatever Mazda puts in it - CZ1 off.
2. ...CZ1 - ON
3. Change to Royal Purple, CZ1 ON
4. Royal Purple CZ1 OFF
I have sheduled a dyno session on Thurs 4/22/04. I have baselined the car at 1000miles. I just installed Stage 1 Canzoomer mod and want to test it. The big reason is b/c I was invited to test [before and after] royal purple in my car. They claim it will increase HP and protect the engine better.
We shall see.
I expect to do several pulls:
1. With the 5W20 or whatever Mazda puts in it - CZ1 off.
2. ...CZ1 - ON
3. Change to Royal Purple, CZ1 ON
4. Royal Purple CZ1 OFF
04-19-2004, 06:08 PM
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Re: Royal Purple's view on synthetics in the rotary engine
Originally posted by rotarygod
Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
04-19-2004, 06:11 PM
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Originally posted by pr0ber
if only a company would get serious and make a real rotary oil - an oil that gasoline isn't soluable in, will resist foaming and water retention, and offer great wear resistance... unfortunetly I know a formulation that was this, but never made it past the beancounters at a particular oil company... maybe one day
if only a company would get serious and make a real rotary oil - an oil that gasoline isn't soluable in, will resist foaming and water retention, and offer great wear resistance... unfortunetly I know a formulation that was this, but never made it past the beancounters at a particular oil company... maybe one day
04-19-2004, 08:33 PM
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The idea to test with dino oil, then RP is a good one in theory, but unless you're planning on draining your oil coolers between runs, (which will almost certainly lead to leaks) I'd say that's gonna be tough to do.
That being said, I've been running RP 5W-20 since my first oil change, and it seems to run quieter now. It uses the RP at the same rate as the dinosaur, (about 1/2 qt every 1,000 miles), and I have not noticed any ill effects, nor any good ones other than the "percieved" drop in mechanical noise from the motor (which as we all know, is most likely mental).
If it's good enough for Racing Beat and good enough for a 727B enduro car, it'll do for my little Renesis. I ran RP in both my SC'd Miatas for 5 years, never had one complaint. It's the cheapest peace of mind I can buy.
That being said, I've been running RP 5W-20 since my first oil change, and it seems to run quieter now. It uses the RP at the same rate as the dinosaur, (about 1/2 qt every 1,000 miles), and I have not noticed any ill effects, nor any good ones other than the "percieved" drop in mechanical noise from the motor (which as we all know, is most likely mental).
If it's good enough for Racing Beat and good enough for a 727B enduro car, it'll do for my little Renesis. I ran RP in both my SC'd Miatas for 5 years, never had one complaint. It's the cheapest peace of mind I can buy.
04-19-2004, 08:42 PM
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Well the difference is that Mazda reccomends it for racing applications. That would leave me to believe that with our fuel maps that they thought some synthetic would not burn or leave deposits for drivers that don't rev the car. But then again they do allow synthetic in other countries and RP says that it burns very well. I am thinking of trying it but I am still a little skeptical.
