CURED RX8

Jax, what do you mean when you say you love this mod?

Does it feel like the engine actually runs smoother?
Are your exhaust tips cleaner? A lot or a little?
Is it just the comfort of clean burn & not having to check the oil dipstick every other fill up?

How does the Idemitsu feed through the OMP? Does the resevoir need to be higher for gravity feed? Or does the pump pressurize the line from your resevoir?

How long has the Adapter been on your car and how much Idemitsu is used up? Can you tell yet?

Sorry for all the ???, but this mod really interests me.

Jax_RX8

Happy to help

1. Hard to tell if car runs smoother since it is still very new (1800 miles total) and runs great already. I do have the latest computer flash. Exhaust tips are cleaner, but they still do develop some soot - I think it is somewhat less due to cleaner burning 2-cycle oil and some due to the FP60.

2. I did it for the better lubrication and cleaner burning to avoid the longer term carbon and exhaust port buildup issues many have had. Overall I think this is a better solution that Mazda should have done in the first place, but did not because they did not think the general car buyer would maintain the 2-cycle tank.

3. While many have considered a separate tank, and I actually bought one, in the end I decided to use the washer tank as it is large, secure, and thick at the base to easily tap with a barb fitting. I then used a standard 1/4" gas hose connected to the new barb running down to the barb connection on the adapter. This is gravity feed and tank must be 6 inches above the Adapter barb connector to provide enough gravity pressure to properly feed.

4. I have run about 500 of fairly easy driving miles since I have installed and have used about 1/8 quart so far (I marked a line on the tank to measure usage, so this is best guess so far as I have not added any oil yet). Note that the rate of usage will be the same as if it was drawing oil from the sump - which will vary based on how hard you drive the car.

5. I agree with your earlier statement that this mod is good for all motors, not just FI motors, and I recommend for all. FI motors would likely want the Adjuster as well so they can feed more oil via the OMP to handle the additional stresses (or they can premix)

Hope this helps

CURED RX8

Non-FI - the OMP would inject cycle-2 oil at the stock settings, which so far everyone seems to agree would be correct.

FI - Would require a different setup. Adjuster may not be applicable.

Maybe you'd just want to get the Adapter and premix the extra in the tank for the different driving conditions. If the system failed (stock or with this mod) you'd still have oil coming in through the premix.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Did you take any pics while you worked?

Jax_RX8

No because there was already a very good DIY with great picks and there was really nothing more I could add other than tips.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

ugggg

Firefox can't find the server at www.turborenesis.com

CURED RX8

Unless I'm reading this wrong on the Roataryaviation web site...The Adjuster does give you more oil flow, but at a fixed amount. You would have to set the Adjuster at the max condition flow rate needed to ensure enough oil under the most extreme driving condition you may encounter. But that means oil flows at that high rate all the time regardless of RPM, boost, etc.

Racing Beat's OMP mod still uses the 60 settings, but widens the higher RPM port/piston in the OMP so more oil (approx. 31 % according to their web site) flows in higher RPM & Load conditions. While idle, light throttle, and low RPM remain at the stock flow rates by leaving that port/piston in the OMP the same. This seems to be a much better application for FI.

You could still use the Sohn Adaptor to pull two stroke from a separate resevoir. But the Sohn Adjuster seems impractical for the RX-8.

If you want more than Racing Beat's 31% increase (which is probably conservative) you could always premix a set rate in the gas tank and add more for different racing applications.

CURED RX8

The BIG question is...Does the Adjuster set the oil flow rate to a set amount and bypass the 60 OMP settings or not?

jird20

Same here.

jird20

Jax_RX8

GTAW put up this site and I cannot acces it anymore either. May want to send him a PM to see if he still has this hosted somewhere else.

Jax_RX8

See this thread for answer (we have two going on now)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/sohn-adaptor-adjuster-help-107838/

bxb40

I would make sure a large, clear label on the washer fluid tank indicates that it is not to be filled by any overzealous gas station (less likely at a dealership) attendant.
Just imagine the mess you'll get if someone would add windshield washer fluid on top of your 2T oil...

juanjux

Someone has a mirror of the document in turborenesis.com? It isn't in google cache or archive.com :-(

dgrx8

has anyone used a seperate oil tank for the 2-stroke? i'm going to order the adapter but would like to spare my washer fluid tank. i have found several tanks online but can't figure out where i would mount it. any input would be great. thanks!

MadDog

^ DAMN!! Take that man's information off that post! WTF are you thinking?

zoom44

done

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Sorry - did not mean to post the whole copy, just the domain info.

dgrx8

bump

Jax_RX8

Site back up.

Here is the updated OMP Install page:

http://www.turborenesis.com/OMPinstall.html

mysql101

You should be able to tell what oil I'm using just by the color :>


Boy was the Sohn adapter a pain to install though. I had to remote the batt, then to remove the OMP I needed to remove the passenger tire... then couldn't reach the bolts properly without taking off both turbo tubes. Couldn't do that without removing the front bumper. Also had to remove the under tray. Then I couldn't get one out of the three bolts to thread. Had issues with making the Sohn adaptor fit to the side of the engine - turns out he's got amazing clearances, it's just SLIGHTLY too big, but screwing in the 3 bolts will push it into place, no way this thing is going to leak.

I'm not sure how well the clear fuel tube will hold up, might have to replace it. At least that part will be easy.

mysql101

btw, I used my washer fluid container...



I might want to see what the clear OEM container costs and get that instead. But this thing will be able to hold enough oil to last longer than several oil changes.

Jax_RX8

Oil and Fuel oxidize - that is why I also add about 1oz of Lube Control's LC20 (not FP60) to each quart of Idemitsu premix as I add it to my tank. LC20 is an oil antioxidant and cleaner - helps prevent oil oxidation/breakdown of the 2-cycle once opened and exposed to air.

Jax_RX8

Make sure it is the Syncroshift II for that price, which is a full synthetic. If it is, that is a great price as I see it in the $10-15/qt range.

Normal Syncroshift (dino) - I'm pretty sure they still make it - is less and around the $6-8 price range you stated.

mysql101

I read on the OMP install page that he put in a breather. It looks like the cap breaths enough .. anyone have any idea how much the OMP pulls? I don't want to expose the oil to more than I have to. Even a gentle squeeze on the washer fluid bottle shows that air easily escapes and gets sucked back in.

Jax_RX8

I have the clear tank with a yellow cap. The yellow cap has a very small hole in the top to allow air in as oil is used, but not too much to prevent spilling. I do not think any changes are required here as I have not seen any issues with enough ventilation for proper flow with mine.