BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

So, just now i tried getting into the car, and the keyless entry remote did not work. I unlocked the door with the key manually, and try to start the car... but get nothing.
No cranking sound, no chimes, nothing. The interior lights won't even work.

When I try to start it the only thing the car does is flash the red key symbol in the dash. I have a feeling the car is still "ARMED" and hence won't start.

So, I guess i need to change the battery in my keyless entry remote, and then disarm it.

Does anybody know how to open the keyless entry remote?

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

Well, i just called the dealership and they said that even if the remote battery died, the car should still turn over manually.

Tow trucks on the way... and im heading back to the dealership again. Thats two times in the past 3 weeks. I hope its not another dead battery.

-hS

Go48

Your ignition immobilizer system is having a problem in addition to the entry remote, so the problem seems to be more basic than the key and remote. So replacing the battery in the remote is unlikely to correct the problem. However, to replace the battery in the remote, stick a thin screwdriver in the little slot at the end of the remote and pop it open. Batteries are widely available at drug stores and elsewhere.

Make sure your car battery is fully charged. Do you have any aftermarket security devices installed on the car? Since the problem affects both the entry remote and the immobilizer system, I would suspect a problem with the PCM or a car power problem. Only way to find out is to get it to a dealer and have them diagnose the problem. You may want to call Mazda Roadside Assistance and have them truck the car to a dealer.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

I caleld Mazda Roadside... and they're gonna be here in a few hours. Until then is there anything i can do at home to try and fix this?

I don't have an aftermarket alarm, and the only thing connected to the PCM and Battery is the Interceptor-X.

On my mothers CRV she had a problem with the Key. The dealer said she needs to keep it away from other metal objects as that may interfere with the chip in the key. I'm thinking that might be my problem as well.

I'll report back after i get back from the dealer.

Go48

I doubt that your problem is related to proximity to another low-energy magnetic device. I don't know what the Interceptor-X is, but if you did the wiring yourself take it off before the dealer sees it or he may try to claim that caused the problem and refuse a warranty repair.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

The dealer knows about the turbo and interceptor... and has been really good about warranty service in the past.

Well i just got back, and here's the update...

When the roadside guy came, he tried jumping the car but his portable jumper wasn't strong enough. Then he tried with the truck, and that wasn't enough. Then he put the two together and we got it to turn over.
Oh, he also mentioned the car was too low to tow.

At the dealer we checked the battery load. The battery once charged had the normal amount of juice in it. We tested it with the car off... completely seperate from the car, connected to the car, and connected to the car with interceptor... they all had the same readings.
We're thinking i may have left one of the lights on (again). I guess i'll find out if it dies again.

Also at the dealer two people came out while i was leaving and wanted to talk cars. One of the guys said his Mazda 6 was putting 500 whp down with his 100 shot of nos, with a ported motor. He also said his friend who's a mechanic adjusted his gearings for him. I didn't look too close at the car, but it had tons of NOS stickers and the worlds largest aluminum spoiler. I call BS on the 500whp and lower gear ratio.

and thats my update for the last two hours.

Go48

Make sure your trunk light is not remaining on. Others have had that problem as a drain on the battery. Check it by removing the pass-through between the back seats to see if the light is on. The light or sound signal you get when you use the remote entry will not work if the trunk or the hood is not fully closed.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

I just checked and it wasn't the trunk light.
I'll keep looking around and keeping an eye out. I'll also make sure to be extra caution and ensuring the car is completely closed.

One thing i did always leave open is the hood. But i dont think that could be related.

-hS

zoom44

did you try the spare remote or valet while waiting?

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

yes and yes... didn't help.
the battery was completely dead.

Oh, while at the dealership i found out the batteries on the remote are also covered under warranty. I'll make sure to swing by next week and get mine replaced
One of mine died 6 months ago, and the other one is getting weak.

-hS

saxon987

back to the original question..."how to replace the battery".

if anyone has actually managed to open their remote, please explain:

the owners manual says "push the tab". i assumed that meant "push it down"...but doing that does not release the key. i only managed to chip the tab!

an obviously poor design. could someone offer more detail about how, and in what direction, to push the tab?



thanks,
saxon

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

BUMP - yeah, i now need to actually change the battery in my remote now. How do i do that?

-hS

ezrider55

The battery you need is a CR2025 if 2004 in your model year. Where the metal spring connects your key to the remote you will find a little slot in the remote. Put a standard screw driver in the slot and twist gently to pop open the remote and change the battery. Make sure you put the new battery in the same + direction.