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The only non-standard part of the job is pushing the rear piston back in while turning it. Some have not had a problem, it was a royal pain on mine. You can use a big C clamp on the fronts before you take them off. The back has to be turned before they go in.
I borrowed one from autozone half way through (they have tools you can buy, then return). I then bought basically the same set from harbour freight http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html . Getting pressure on the piston, and turning, is the really hard part.
That was the only hard part.
2004 Nordic Green HPS, Tokico D, Tein H, Progress Tech Sway Bars, Super Blue, AP w/ MM Tune, $100 Stuff, Air Pump Fell Off, ACT Pro-Lite Flywheel, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
. First $100 Mods ... New Owners
just get the tool from autozone. it's very easy to use. its braced against the inside of the front part of the caliper which allows you to turn the handle and compress the piston. just turn slowly as to not tear the piston boot.
That would be an impact screwdriver, in case the screws holding the rotor to the hub are stuck.
I have not yet done brakes on my 8, but I've encountered stuck screws on other cars. I just drilled the heads off, then picked up a sack of replacements at the hardware store. You don't really need those screws. They just hold the rotors in place til you get the wheel back on. Some replacement rotors don't even have holes for them. So no need to panic if they get munged.
On better quality rotors, there are usually four holes. Two plain and countersunk for those screws. Two threaded. The idea is that if the rotor is frozen to the hub you screw the screws into the threaded holes to pop the rotor off.
2006 MT, Galaxy Gray
Fuel cap hook