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some say they lose horsepower when they have a K&N typhoon SR intake on their car, but i just don't see how that's possible. :/
for anyone who has experience with this particular intake, what rpms are you losing HP?
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I have the k/n V2 and the only time I notice a loss of power is 85+ degrees by then its completey heat soaked, but I just insalled a RB air duct and it works out a whole lot better.
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2004 Ti Grey 6sp MT, K&N V2, RB air duct, Agency power full exhaust, clear coners, mazdatrix 10mm spark pulg wires, BHR TB spacer, BHR stealth nozzel, 65 shot zex wet kit, zex nitrous pressure gauge, and lotek gauge pod(still need to buy gauges)
I have the k/n V2 and the only time I notice a loss of power is 85+ degrees by then its completey heat soaked, but I just insalled a RB air duct and it works out a whole lot better.
really,
why and how.
beers
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Thanks, Mr. moody sardonic expert on so many things. Potentiated 09 Banned
All the stuff???? All I need is rum dude; everything else takes care of itself! Kane 09
I have the k/n V2 and the only time I notice a loss of power is 85+ degrees by then its completey heat soaked, but I just insalled a RB air duct and it works out a whole lot better.
I ran with the k&N v2 for about 40,000 miles and logged intake air temperatures as high as 190 degrees when it was about 110 degrees ambient outside.
As stated, the intake requires you have all your engine panels installed to provide a seal but the problem is air still gets into the intake from the motor and most people don't run all of their plastic engine panels anyway.
As your intake air temps increase, you're robbed of power AND you also risk detonation if you're tuned with leaner air/fuel mixtures.
I've seen posts from other people that the RB air duct provides some relief from the warm air. The best method is to either go with a true CAI like the AEM or to stick with the stock intake.
While BHR hasn't had an opportunity to get hard data, it's our stance that the stock intake is more than capable of delivering the necessary flow for the RX8. If anything, you can get a drop in green or k&n filter for it.
ahh the sound ...... im actually in the process of insulating the KnN ver 2i have. i found that majority of the heat is actually being radiated thru the bottom or whats remaining of the stock intake setup when the ver 2 is installed cuz the radiator is right under it. also, theres a gap i found and sealed which is where the VFAD duct enters the intake box, there was like a 5mm gap around the vfad duct and the stock intake box so when the rad fans are on and air is being pulled thru the radiator, some gets thru that gap and the intake temps rise. ill post pics when my whole experimental thingy is done. so far ive noticed a difference cuz the filter is a little cooler than the intake tube after a long drive now whereas before, it would be the same temp.
Cuz it scoops up cooler outside air. I wish I had a temp gauge to show some numbers but sorry I don't. It just feels like it runs better with the RB duct unless your in stop and go traffic then your kinda scewed. I should of bought the duct when I bought the intake tho.
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2004 Ti Grey 6sp MT, K&N V2, RB air duct, Agency power full exhaust, clear coners, mazdatrix 10mm spark pulg wires, BHR TB spacer, BHR stealth nozzel, 65 shot zex wet kit, zex nitrous pressure gauge, and lotek gauge pod(still need to buy gauges)
The reason why VFAD is not good for K&N V2 is that
They position VFAD vertically, and the "opening" is right inside the fender above the oil cooler. its ok for stock intake because everything seals and thats the only opening, so if the engine "wants air", it will create a vacuum and it will only get air from there. It doesnt matter if the car is not moving or moving.
but if you use K&N with it. there is a space between the VFAD and K&N's filter. so when engine wants air, remember VFAD sits "inside" the bumper at all times and there is no vacuum because its not seal. so there is nothing there to push fresh air in. then K&N will suck whatever air thats around them. This engine needs quite a lot of air at high rpm, maybe thats why some people are experiencing lack of power with stock VFAD + K&N.
If you use RB duct with it, its opening at the front. when your car moves, the air will blow direct into it and feed the K&N filter happily.
I just dunno why K&N never thought of that. They could really design something better. or maybe make a special intake like RB Duct + AEM or something.
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Feel free to ask every single little thing on this forum. a lot of cool dudes will answer your questions accordingly
I just went back to stock yesterday after having the K&N on there for a year and I noticed a huge drop in my IAT. With the K&N at idle intake temps would climb well over 100 degrees on a 70 degree day. Now they stay about 10 degrees above ambient temp with the stock intake back on.
Power wise, if the K&N gets heat soaked sitting at a light you can definitely notice a loss of power in the low RPM's up to like 4k, but it totally makes up for it on the top end. Also, once the car is moving again and air starts circulating around in the engine bay the intake temps go back down.
All I can say is that I'm going to miss the increased rotary sound and extra top end power from the Typhoon. :-(
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"Well if you think it was luck, then let's do it again." -Tom Cruise(Cole Trickle), Days of Thunder
I just went back to stock yesterday after having the K&N on there for a year and I noticed a huge drop in my IAT. With the K&N at idle intake temps would climb well over 100 degrees on a 70 degree day. Now they stay about 10 degrees above ambient temp with the stock intake back on.
Power wise, if the K&N gets heat soaked sitting at a light you can definitely notice a loss of power in the low RPM's up to like 4k, but it totally makes up for it on the top end. Also, once the car is moving again and air starts circulating around in the engine bay the intake temps go back down.
All I can say is that I'm going to miss the increased rotary sound and extra top end power from the Typhoon. :-(
a lot of cool dudes will answer your questions accordingly 
better off with the oem one?
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