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This is my first time rebuilding a Rotary, I've read lots about how impossible it is. We shall learn the hard way I guess. This is where I will post about things I have learned. This will be a slow process, as I have a broken neck and cant work for long/hard on the car, let alone drive myself to the shop with my Halo brace on. Once September comes I hope to have the motor ready to go back in the car, and by then I should be able to install it unencumbered.
Getting the engine of the car out is pretty straight forward and well documented on the site by rotaryresurection. I have an automatic transmission car and was able to remove it with the torque converter attached although I recommend not forgetting to take it off like I did. Also the cross member that is removed is necessary to be taken off because the exhaust will hit it on removal, at least it did in my case.
There is also a battery tray bracket that nobody talks about removing to keep the OMP safe, it looks to me like this is the unknown culprit of damage to the OMP if you spin the engine on removal it will hit this bracket, two bolts removes it.
Once I got the engine out, I had to get the rear nut off the flexplate, this requires a 2-1/8" socket and holding the engine down was the hardest part, after that, use a big breaker bar and cheater pipe. Same for the front nut, wont go, get a bigger pipe. I didn't have access to a big impact (3/4" drive). I used a piece of chain from the engine lifting lug to a flexplate bolt to hold the crank from spinning, this bent the bolt and I recommend you do it some other way.
Once I got the flex plate off the counter balance was a problem for me. It is pressed on a tapered shaft, and requires a puller of some sort to get it off. Mazmart sells a puller for about $40 which is reasonable. I just got some bolts at sears and used my backing plate and some washers to get it off. My regular puller would not work.
I picked up 4 M10x1.25 bolts by 40mm long, and some nuts from sears hardware. I had the large washers on hand. would recommend you get 6 bolts to make it easier.
Bolts installed, using some washers or the nuts to stand the heads off of the backing plate so the wrench can get on.
Keep the big nut on a bit to protect the threads:
Use a stack of washers to space the backing plate:
Installed assembly:
Just turn each bolt a bit in a star pattern, don't be afraid to rap on the counter balance with a ball peen hammer to shock it. it comes off with a bit of effort.
Once the counter balance was off the rear stator gear was easily removed using a 12mm socket and ratchet. I like to use an electric screw gun to zip out all the bolts once I break them free. My son loves to help with this. I use ziplock bags to organize all the bolts and nuts and pieces, and a sharpie to identify front/back of components and a camera phone to document the sequence of removal.
Once I got the rear counter balance off, I took the rear stator gear off, which is as simple as unbolting and removing, but then I put it back on because I'm not sure I'm supposed to have it off at this point.
Then I moved to the front cover removal. This is also very straight forward, 7-8 12mm bolts to pull the cover, plus 5-6 oil pan bolts in the bottom. Once you get all the bolts off the cover will be stuck and you will want to pry it off, DONT. Don't break the cover as I'm sure its not cheap to replace. The oil pan is sealed with a gray sealant that needs to be separated and the cover will come off easily. I hammered a screw driver in between the oil pan and the cover and then used a razor knife to cut the seal all the way across this worked surprisingly good. and was quick to do. Once I got the cover off I enlisted my son to hold it up for a photo soot.
Behind the cover is the drive gear for the OMP on top, and the drive gear for the oil pump on the bottom, connected by a chain. These are not timed. To remove them the bottom gear nut has to be removed. Straighten the retaining washer with a hammer and screw driver and then use a 17mm wrench to take the nut off. You will need to restrain the crank (e-shaft) to do this, I just struck the wrench with a dead blow hammer and it spun free.
Then the oil pump and front counterbalance are exposed.
The oil pump comes off easily, and I typically hold the rotor in my hand and slide my fingers over it, if it feels sharp it is worn, if the edges are smooth inspect for tolerances per the FSM. I've not read that these oil pumps are prone to wear/failure. I don't like to replace oil pumps unless they show signs of wear.
The front counterbalance is not retained by anything and will slide off, behind it is a shim, a bearing and then a washer. The bearing has a direction so keep it that way using zip ties or tape. mark parts front to back with a sharpie. I bag and tag everything using ziplock bags and photograph for reference later.
Then the front stator gear washer is removed, this is timed, or held in place by locating pin atleast.
Another bearing rides behind the washer
There is a centering ring and a backing washer as well, all shown in this picture. There is an oil hole in the crank here for oiling this bearing I guess.
Backing washer coming out:
That's as far as I got, got pretty tired at this point.
I have a question, Are these the correct bolt locations (bolts installed for clarity) to mount the motor to the engine stand? The top one is only an M8x1.25 bolt but the other two are pretty beefy. Seems like a lot of concentrated force on the front iron. I will be making my own engine stand adapter, or getting one from Mazmart.
Hey look at that page 24 of the manual shows which holes to use.
Lists the special tool, which is the engine stand adapter, and gives you the bolts required.
Last edited by p8ntman442; 07-14-2015 at 09:48 AM.
Yup, we are practically neighbors. This is the first time I've worked on it since we talked. Its hard for me to get going on this. I just ordered my engine stand adapter from Pineapple Racing which had reasonable shipping. 67.50 for the adapter shipped. When the engine stand adapter comes in I will let you know and we can hang out and disassemble the engine. Sounds like fun right.
My engine stand adapter came in today. Ordered on the 14th. Quality looks real good. The extra hardware is nice as well.
This means that the engine will be on the stand this weekend for some progress next week. Once I tear it apart I'll know the extent of the damage and asses how the rebuild will go. This rebuild does not have a budget but it going to be a budget rebuild. After all the goal is daily driver the wife can borrow. If we have good success and fall in love with rotors perhaps a manual shift car in the future, or convert this one. But for now rebuild and drive it.
Well, Finally got the engine up on the engine stand, should start making some faster progress now (because slower is not possible). I'm more able to work in the shop now but still have trouble getting there.
Next step is to tear it down, catalog the parts and figuring out what damage is done and where to go from there. Hoping to keep the same irons rotors and housings but only time will tell.
Last edited by p8ntman442; 08-25-2015 at 06:51 PM.
Well, Tore it down today. The front rotor which had no compression has eaten an apex seal and ruined the housing and the rotor. The irons all look and feel fine but I will need to check them with a dial indicator. my intake ports look pretty gummed up.
Good luck with the build. I was in your position two years ago, whittling away at mine in the garage. I look forward to your "first start" video, but much work to be done before then
Your first RE build is a real learning and enjoyable experience, I don't know any RE re-builders who dislike the process, even those who earn a living from doing so.
Grr, so found a 6 spd car local with fresh rebuild for a little bit more than my rebuild costs..... Car has less miles and an OMP adapter already installed. Placed a call we will see how it goes.
OK, the local car is sold, so back to plan A. Still looking for a rotor and housing.
Last edited by p8ntman442; 08-28-2015 at 08:51 AM.
I'm too am rebuilding my engine right now, and i'm at about the same progress as you!. Luckily, my seals were all still in tact except for the softer seals which will all be replaced.
I do have a question though. the Front 19mm bolt with the spring behind it, how did you manage to get that off? i have a very large cheater bar and it still doesn't seem to want to budge, although i still haven't tried using a torch on it. Any suggestions if you did something special?
I used a piece of chain from the engine lifting lug to a flexplate bolt to hold the crank from spinning, this bent the bolt and I recommend you do it some other way.
I do have a question though. the Front 19mm bolt with the spring behind it, how did you manage to get that off? i have a very large cheater bar and it still doesn't seem to want to budge, although i still haven't tried using a torch on it. Any suggestions if you did something special?
I used a torch and a big pipe, it was not easy, holding the motor still was the hardest part, I have NO IDEA why this bolt is torqued so much. As for the flexplate bolt, cant say I didn't warn you.
I'm too am rebuilding my engine right now, and i'm at about the same progress as you!. Luckily, my seals were all still in tact except for the softer seals which will all be replaced.
I do have a question though. the Front 19mm bolt with the spring behind it, how did you manage to get that off? i have a very large cheater bar and it still doesn't seem to want to budge, although i still haven't tried using a torch on it. Any suggestions if you did something special?
I bought two water pipes from Home Depot. I think they are 0.75" diameter by about 4-6' long or so. One I stuck between the flywheel and motor. The other I put the socket adapter from a cheater bar on with the socket. Then I levered with all my might between the two and it came loose
Woopls, just read from the beginning that you have an automatic... I got nothin' sorry!
Maybe throw the exhaust manifold back on and put the pipe between the manifold and engine for leverage?
I used a torch and a big pipe, it was not easy, holding the motor still was the hardest part, I have NO IDEA why this bolt is torqued so much. As for the flexplate bolt, cant say I didn't warn you.
yeah the biggest problem i've had is trying to hold the motor down, guess i'll need some help with that, just bought a torch head yesterday because my other is MIA. Thanks!
07-14-2015, 08:23 AM
My First Renesis Rebuild
