tcblank

So the clutch went out in my RX8 finally. Took it in to get it fixed at a small shop nearby. The shop is letting me buy my own parts and they are just charging me the labor. So I bought the clutch kit. They dropped the transmission to make sure there was nothing else wrong with it. They said they need a seal kit to put the transmission back on. Looking for a seal kit, all I'm finding is full rebuild kits for the engine, transmission, and air intakes. Not looking to spend that much. I found a place that lists two different seal kits and I'm not sure which I need or if either works.

SEAL KIT. Mazda # FB0149470

SEAL KIT. Mazda RX-8 # B3124153Z

Any help?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

There is no kit. You need a front input shaft seal or input shaft housing with seal (recommended) and a rear tailshaft seal. These parts are listed in the transmission parts section.


.

ASH8

Team is correct, MT Trans do not have ''seal kits'', all the round oil seals are purchased separately and as needed.

The seal kits you have shown part numbers of are FB01 for clutch hydraulics Slave Cylinder and B312 for Clutch Master-cylinder which supplies fluid to Slave Cylinder which operates Clutch Fork which engages in or out of Clutch.....basically.

Actual 6MT Trans Seals, one of each, OEM #, Y601-17-131 Seal Input Shaft, R501-17-335A Seal Prop Shaft Output

2 x Trans Seals are for Series I RX-8 only, 2004-2008 MY.

tcblank

R501-17-335A shows up as an automatic transmission seal

ASH8

Believe who you wish, the genuine Mazda EPC + someone who has work @ and 'with' Mazda Parts for over 3 decades (nearly 4 actually, being me), says R501-17-335A.

This Seal fits just about all AISIN Manual Transmissions used in Mazda MANUALs from 1987 to end S1 RX-8 6MT.

Just for the record the Auto is...BW60-17-335 (4 Speed Auto ) or SJ01-17-335 (2006~ 6 Speed Auto).

BTW Again, Full Seal Kits are available but only for AT's...you have a MT.

Signal 2

If they're pulling the FW off for re-surfacing (and if you have any miles on it they should, especially with a new clutch) then ask them to re-torque the engine tension bolts. All they need to do it is a torque wrench and a page out of the FSM to show the order to do it. Takes < 10 minutes. With the FW off it's also easy and <$20 to replace the rear main seal and 'O' ring too.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with that

Signal 2

OK. I'm waiting....please explain why this will require "luck".

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Cuz, u be lucky if a dealership tech will even dare to touch any of the engine tension bolts. For the record, dealership is not allowed to do anything(read: touch) on the short block

Karack

and it's highly unlikely they will want to mess with those items for the minor amount of money you assume they will charge.

even as a builder i don't often like to retorque main bolts just for the hell of it, because if one snaps then what? the finger pointing and pissing match begins.

Signal 2

Wasn't aware that snapping tension bolts was common. It's certainly not in my experience. But I understand from a shop perspective...because there is exposure there w/o any real return.

And I don't come here often, but it's good to see you here Karack....or should I call you Rotary Evolution?

tcblank

I was just saying when I looked up those part numbers, that was what google returned to me. I was out of town and unable to contact the tech until today. He's going to call me a bit in again and read off the part numbers from what is already on there to me. However, I think he's going to read the same ones back to me that you already posted here. But I like to double check. I go by the old adage of measure twice and cut once.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Ash has been a parts guy for decades,

Im not a parts guy, even i know what he gave u was right, that seal hasnt been change for decades so there is nothing special there. Mazda parts name are always funny, they call gasket a washer, vice versa.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Tension bolts usually wont back out on its own, if it did, that means the engine wasnt even built correctly in the first place

Signal 2

Wow...good think you're not backing them out when you re-torque.

j9fd3s

the best one is SE01-15-205. its a radiator cap, and the description says "chugotta cap".

for what its worth (zero) the Mazda USA computer just says seal oil for the R501-17-335A

ASH8

Huh, What has a Mazda T Series Truck (SE01-15-205) Radiator Cap got to do with anything??

Where in description?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

rofl ... lemme turn that counter-clockwise see if it gets any tighter ....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

j9fd3s

for the US its an Rx7 GSL-SE cap, nothing to do with anything although when you order it the blue tag says something funny

Karack

thanks, i don't mind either name.

the risk versus reward is just too great for the tension bolts. i've seen people do it without issue but it's just something i prefer to avoid.

the rear main seals usually don't give me any problems either and i prefer to leave sleeping dogs lie. "if it aint broke don't fix it", you can create problems by simply touching something that otherwise would have been fine and then who pays the bill? i just prefer to avoid the risk.

for the Y16M-D Aisin series I 6 speed RX8 tranny, for reference if they break just toss them. took far too long to rebuild this one, although it worked perfectly the cost of the internal parts plus labor outweighs the worth of the transmission. on the upside i have enough parts leftover to rebuild the other spare i have for the caterham 7.