surfnlow

Alright guys, here it goes. I have an 04 6 speed and I just rebuilt the motor. I have great compression. The problem is that I can;t seem to get it out of limp mode. It is popping codes p0410 and p0506. Most people on here go strait to the cat being clogged, but mine is gutted. I have adjusted the MOP and also cleaned the MAF. I have a K&N Typhoon intake. I have checked the plugs, coils and wires. The weird thing about it is that if I reset the code, it will run great and rev all the way up for about 10 secs after I have started the car. Anything would be helpful here. I am at a loss.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I would suspect that you have a massive vacuum leak somewhere, to the point that the ECU can't figure out how to control the engine.

surfnlow

That is the next thing I was going to try. I gotta get the intake off, and that is a chore in itself. I will update when I get it off.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's your MOP.......that is how it presents itself.....reset and start...throttle works for about 10sec...then goes into limp mode. You won't get a CEL code with this failure

Try and move the adjuster around a bit and try resetting it in between.....if you get lucky it will behave

The only other limp mode is a DBW throttle issue and it will throw codes for sure....and an ECT sensor....it throws codes as well

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Thanks dannobre.

I've experienced only 2 of the limp modes, but none from the OMP. One I got that is very rare was from a frozen accelerator pedal sensor from under -10F temps outside all night. Revs were fixed at 3,000rpm immediately at start, accelerator pedal was completely non-responsive. I haven't exhaustively researched them all, but i suspect there are 4-5 limp modes total.

surfnlow

Yeah, I have tried re-positioning the MOP sensor, but no luck. I had to run out for a bit today, so I didn't get a chance to pull off the mani to make sure there is no vacuum leak. I don't hear any hissing other than the intake, so I don't think there is one. I was afraid you were going to say the MOP. Crazy thing is that I just sold my spare a few months back. sucks!

surfnlow

Just curious if the sohn adapter would have anything to do with this. I know it is a long shot, but I have to ask. I installed it at the same time I rebuilt the motor.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Indirectly at least ... you had to mess with the OMP to install it :-)

surfnlow

I think I am going to take off and take it apart to see if there is something I may have adjusted out of whack. I painted it to too, so I took off the controller to do that. Cool, that gives a bit to work with. I like to fix things rather than just but new ones. Thanks for the advise!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Just take of the switch and turn the team all the way clockwise and put the switch back on. I think that's correct. . Or maybe counter clockwise? ? If you search i posted about it a couple of years ago. ..

surfnlow

That is what I was going to try. Had to pull some OT at work this we, so I am going to try it tomorrow if I don't get to it tonight. I think it is Clockwise from what I saw in the forums. Thanks for the advice. I will post regardless of the outcome.

surfnlow

Looks like it is spring-loaded, so I put tension on the spring but still no luck. Looks like I will be buying an OMP.

infiltr_eight

@surfnlow:

Try that:
Loosen the 2 OMP position Screws lightly so u can barely turn the sensor .. start in the centred position. Start the car up ... if it goes into limp mode give the sensor a "very slight" turn into one direction. Turn the Car off, delete the CEL and restart. In a certain position the CEL should stay off ... then tighten the 2 screws down. If u do it like this be sure the sensor doesnt move while running the engine ... so dont loosen the 2 screws too much.

This way i found the right Position on my OMP switch some years ago.

Sorry not my native language so i hope u understand me...

Greetings
Thomas

surfnlow

Thanks for the tip. I have tried this, and it didn't seem to make any difference at all. I am wondering about the TB though. I get some smoke out of the tailpipes and a very pungent gas smell. This would indicate a fuel mixture issue imo. I also noticed that dan mentioned that the OMP will not throw a code, yet mine is throwing p0410 and p0506. p0506 is a TB code. Please correct me if I am wrong. The only reason I am second guessing it is because of the gas smell and smoke.

infiltr_eight

Maybe u got into limp mode because of the Throttle Problem .. hmm ... i remember the OMP as the only thing putting the 8 in limp mode .. but there can be other parts that do that too....

drebbrnator

After you repaired your OMP, did you have a way of verifying that it operated? I have recently done some work on mine, but I don't know when the ECU calls for the OMP to actuate.
As near as I can tell, the only time it actuates is above 7k rmp, and with limp mode you won't be able to use that as verification that your OMP is okay.

logalinipoo

You dont want to load the spring in the omp sensor before installing. It has to be just right and when you get it working you might have to adjust it again shortly from my experience. So keep that 7mm wrench around.

I scribed 3 lines when removing mine and still had to adjust it when re installing it.

Use an ohm meter to confirm its operation. There is 3 pins. Ohm the outside 2 while turning it. The resistance jumps all over then completely goes away. That will confirm the switch is working.

infiltr_eight

The only way i had was nearly same 2 stroke consumtion in OMP Reservoir under nearly the same driving conditions and the engine was running good about 35000km ... then it had a main bearing failure due to bad oil dilution in a winter.

Dont mess with the sensor as long as the Pump is ok ... if its faulty then its worth a try since these OMP pumps are expensive.

Greetings
Thomas

logalinipoo

He already removed the sensor to paint the pump, and has attempted to adjust it. So it is almost definately the problem. The bad thing is there might be an aditional problem and he will have to figure out how to fix both of them while the other might be keeping it in limp mode.

suzaan

Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will clear the code unless it is what is called a 'hard fault' meaning the condition that set the code is still present. Limp in mode is a condition that prevents normal transmission shifting so chances
are that the shift solenoid is causing your problem and needs to be addressed. As far as the 02 sensor code that should not affect the transmission operation.

logalinipoo

He's got a manual suZann. The problem resets very quickly. The OMP does a test just after start up and if it's not working properly it goes into limp mode about 10 seconds after starting. You can reset with every time with the battery but it happens immediately on the first start up.

surfnlow

This is correct. I have gotten it out of limp mode every time by unhooking the neg on the batt. The problem is that it goes back into limp mode 10 secs after starting as you said. The codes indicate an airflow problem which is why I am pushing the TB as maybe the problem. Does the Drive-by-wire system have anything to do with this? I am still adjusting here and there as I get time, but I keep losing light. The only problem I cannot wrap my head around is the smoke and the gas smell. Would limp mode cause that? if so, would it be an OMP issue or possible a fuel mixture problem? I do have an sohn adapter pumping amsol 2 stroke. to my knowledge, the pump worked prier to me rebuilding the motor, so I am sure it is something I did or didn't do. I really do want to have to pull the motor again, but it doesn't sound like an internal issue. Do you think unhooking the O2 sensors might help narrow the options?

logalinipoo

My guess is you are not running the engine for very long and flooding it a bit. That's why your getting the strong oil gas smell.

After installing a new engine you should not run a stock cat until you get it running properly or you will kill that cat very quickly and risk killing your engine again. That is if that cat is not already bad and caused you to loose the engine in the first place.

Edit: to set your switch you have to move it all the way clockwise or counterclockwise. Then move it back as little as possible and keep moving it back little by little. If it does not solve the problem when you get it all the way in the other direction then start going back the other way. I actually broke mine in pieces during my rebuild and had to deal with the same issue and concerns. I kept thinking that I had f-uped the rebuild and I was going to have to get a professional rebuild, but I finally got it. Then drove down the road and had to limp back to adjust it again.

Does your engine Idle smooth?

Edit Edit, Do you have any testing devices? Such as a cobb?

surfnlow

The engine does idle smooth, it revs great with very little back firing for the first 10 secs. I will continue to adjust the switch to find the best position. Thanks for not giving up on me. I have ran the engine for up to 10 mins at a time and had it warm before cutting it off. All the time, it had at least a little smoke coming out. I am going to attribute it to the fact the the housings were used and the seals need time to wear in a little. I do have an OBD-II bluetooth and Torque downloaded to my phone. It is popping p0410 and p0506. I did swap out the IAC for s*its and giggles and it did not help. Is there a certain metric I need to look at? BTW, I have gutted my cat, so no chance of it being bad.

logalinipoo

As long as you aren't being a ***** ill try to help. Not that i really know what to do.Good on the cat and Bluetooth. If its idling good then you probably have the injectors hooked up right.

Get your maf, ltft, and stft, omp stepper. Those will help confirm that you have the right airflow at idle and the maf and injectors are in good shape.

That 0506 code sounds to me like it might be maf related but i did see some threads that say it might be the throttle body. Ive never had it personally.