BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

High Performance break pads always squeel. Do you want quiet pads that are made for minvans???

Has anyone tried lubing there pads. Whenever you buy high performance pads it usually comes with the lube.

The squeeling isnt causing damage either way.

rx8cited

Lubing my pads did not help. While squealing is not damaging, it's annoying as hell .......... until you get used to it and accept it as a hi-performance car's feature as I keep reading here :D !

rx8cited

DZeckhausen

High performance street pads do NOT always squeal. And most brake pads do not come with lube. I know this because I'm in the brake business.

Most of the squealing that occurs as you apply gentle brake pedal pressure as you are coming to a stop (the so called "bank teller window" squeal) is due to the sudden jump in friction level as you transition from sliding friction to static friction. Those of you who took physics in school will recall that static friction is higher than sliding friction. By properly bedding the pads and rotors, you end up with higher sliding friction so the transition from sliding to static is less. That usually reduces or eliminates any squeal under light pedal pressure.

The addition of "lube" or rubberized anti-squeal paste to the BACK of the brake pads can temporarily reduce pad squeal by damping out the high frequency vibrations. But that only treats the symptom. The root cause of the squeal is improper bedding. Follow this process and it will cure the squealing problem in 90 percent of your braking applications: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Now, if you were referring to racing brake pads that are for dedicated track use and not for street use, then they WILL eventually squeal. This happens because racing pads will quickly un-bed themselves when driven on the street. They need the high temperatures seen only at the track to stay within their operating range and to keep from chewing away the pad transfer layer from the rotors. But it's my understanding that this discussion is focused on high performance street pads and not dedicated track pads.

There are a few street pads that are notorious for being squeaky, regardless of the bedding process. One such example is the Hawk HP Plus. But there are plenty of high performance street pads that can be made to be as quiet as any pad on a minivan. You don't have to live with brake noise just because you have performance brakes.

MEGAREDS

My problem is that the bedding procedure is not an easy one to do on public roads. What kind of roads do you guys have access to where you can run from 60 mph to 10 mph again and again, then drive around for a significant time without braking? Maybe in Kansas or North Dakota, but not in Chicagoland...

DZeckhausen

I'm in northern New Jersey, just 25 minutes west of Manhattan. There is a 2 mile long road that runs through a reservation which has no buildings, good visibility, and very light traffic. I do a standing start up to 60mph, then threshold brake to 10 and go back up to 60 and down to 10 about four times before I have to turn around and do it again on the way back. Then I just drive around the local roads for the next five or ten minutes, timing my approach to traffic lights so I don't need to come to a complete stop. It's really not that bad.

If I lived in the Los Angeles or Washington DC area, I would simply do it very late at night or early in the morning. At 6 AM on Sunday, there's nobody else driving around!

djantlive

Mazda brakes tend to squeek when the pads are cold. Once warmed up after a few brakes, they are more quiet.

Applying some Disc Brake Quiet on the back of the pads can help the noise.

Helmano

hopefully mazda figures out an easier way to solve this problem because mine have been squeeling as well since about 3000 miles.

DZeckhausen

What would be easier than the customer executing a series of 60-10mph stops? This issue is not unique to Mazda.

Helmano

haha ya i guess u have a point

Mitch Strickler

Dave Z's instructions are for newly-intalled brakes. Mine started squealing at about 6,000 miles, and continue at 9,600. Is the same break-in procedure as for new brakes still appropriate? If so, should I expect that many fewer than 8 60-10 reps will be needed?
Mitch

Rotarian_SC

Lets say you do this on an interstate and a policeman sees you, thinks you are driving erratically, and puts on his lights and comes after you. I think explaining to him why you couldn't pull over for another 10 minutes would make it a little harder :p