HELP! Heads up Display is on the Fritz
#1
HELP! Heads up Display is on the Fritz
Hey all i have no idea what happened.
I was trying to put a toggle switch on the TPMS, according to Mazdamanics suggestions
I accently cut the blue wire with red strip that goes into the head units wiring harness, (i wasn't thinking) but i soddered it back together.
I finally found the TPMS module (i think, see picture, and i cut that red a blue wire) and ran wires from that to the toggle i put near the cupholder.
I had lowered my tire pressure to 25psi in 1 tire to see if the toggle will work... it doesn't nor does just cutting the red and blue wire.....
Now the red digital display where it normally says "mazda rx8" and displays amb temp cd etc.... its going crazy just flashing numbers and letters...... it returns to normal if i apply pressure on the piano black part of the dash.
I was trying to put a toggle switch on the TPMS, according to Mazdamanics suggestions
I accently cut the blue wire with red strip that goes into the head units wiring harness, (i wasn't thinking) but i soddered it back together.
I finally found the TPMS module (i think, see picture, and i cut that red a blue wire) and ran wires from that to the toggle i put near the cupholder.
I had lowered my tire pressure to 25psi in 1 tire to see if the toggle will work... it doesn't nor does just cutting the red and blue wire.....
Now the red digital display where it normally says "mazda rx8" and displays amb temp cd etc.... its going crazy just flashing numbers and letters...... it returns to normal if i apply pressure on the piano black part of the dash.
#2
Since i first posted my cars battery went dead and when i jumpstarted it neither the red digital display works at all now nor navigation nor the homlink for the garage.......
I decided to take out the toggle switch and wires that i ran from the TPMS. I would have soddered the red and blue wire from the TPMS back together but i didn't have enough slack on one end and not much to strip on the other end.
I also added air back to the tire and the warning light went away however I now have a CEL !!!!!!!!!!!!?!?!??!?!? and when ever i turn off the car the dimed tach goes to 2000rpms, the oil pressure to full, and a couple other things.... When i restart the car the tach jumps to 9000k before it lets me start the car....
Whats going on?.... MazdaManiac?
Edit and the car won't lock via the remote.
I decided to take out the toggle switch and wires that i ran from the TPMS. I would have soddered the red and blue wire from the TPMS back together but i didn't have enough slack on one end and not much to strip on the other end.
I also added air back to the tire and the warning light went away however I now have a CEL !!!!!!!!!!!!?!?!??!?!? and when ever i turn off the car the dimed tach goes to 2000rpms, the oil pressure to full, and a couple other things.... When i restart the car the tach jumps to 9000k before it lets me start the car....
Whats going on?.... MazdaManiac?
Edit and the car won't lock via the remote.
#8
Evolution of REvolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Germany
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Blue/Red and Blue/White wires are the CAN communications wires. The CAN (Communication Area Network) is a data bus between all the control modules that allows data sharing in two directions. If you have too much or too little resistance in these wires you will probably have error codes popping up.
However, your repair should have worked. What I think is causing your problem is a bad connection between your audio module and the harness it plugs into behind it. It is very easy to bend or break the circuit boards inside the audio module when removing it, the reason often being that the screw on either side were not removed before trying to remove the module? If you have a loose connection, then depending on the wire that is loose, you could possibly have a MIL illuminating.
I would pull out your audio module and check the connections if I were you. It might pay to actually open up the radio and check the circuit boards, if you can do this easily without leaving any traces of your work (that would void your warranty!). It is possible a technician caused the damage previously when removing the radio for some reason, ask your dealer if this was the case before touching anything.
If the radio has never been removed, then this must have something to do with that CAN wire. Maybe it is not soldered properly, or is pulled out of the connector slightly?
However, your repair should have worked. What I think is causing your problem is a bad connection between your audio module and the harness it plugs into behind it. It is very easy to bend or break the circuit boards inside the audio module when removing it, the reason often being that the screw on either side were not removed before trying to remove the module? If you have a loose connection, then depending on the wire that is loose, you could possibly have a MIL illuminating.
I would pull out your audio module and check the connections if I were you. It might pay to actually open up the radio and check the circuit boards, if you can do this easily without leaving any traces of your work (that would void your warranty!). It is possible a technician caused the damage previously when removing the radio for some reason, ask your dealer if this was the case before touching anything.
If the radio has never been removed, then this must have something to do with that CAN wire. Maybe it is not soldered properly, or is pulled out of the connector slightly?
#9
Few car is back in working order YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What happened:
Turns out when i cut the red/blue wire that runs into the TPMS and ran wires from it to the switch in my cupholder, when i yanked the parking brake the steel-cable from the brake the touched the 2 ends of the switch in the cupholder hole. Effectively grounding it and shorting out a fuse called "room", by the driver side left foot fuse box. Room is apparently the name Mazda appropriately gave to the fuse that controls all the console lights, the HVAC, the CD Headunit, the Red Digital Display, Navigation and the Homelink on the rear view mirror. All by a 15amp fuse, now that my friends is one magical fuse!
Now as for the reason it flashed wired numbers and letters at me, MR M was right when i was taking out the head unit i unscrewed the wrong screw behind the dash. Which bent the piano black finish enough so that the connectors from the circuit board of the Main Console couldn't quite touch the connectors on the piano black side. This was easily remedied and there isn't any visual bend in the finish.
Now Can someone please confirm this was indeed the red and blue wire from the TPMS, not like my airbag deployment module or something, because if i lower my pressure enough the light still comes on. Did Mazdamaniac only intend this as a fix that when the sensors are out of range (not on the wheels) that it wouldn't throw a light?
What happened:
Turns out when i cut the red/blue wire that runs into the TPMS and ran wires from it to the switch in my cupholder, when i yanked the parking brake the steel-cable from the brake the touched the 2 ends of the switch in the cupholder hole. Effectively grounding it and shorting out a fuse called "room", by the driver side left foot fuse box. Room is apparently the name Mazda appropriately gave to the fuse that controls all the console lights, the HVAC, the CD Headunit, the Red Digital Display, Navigation and the Homelink on the rear view mirror. All by a 15amp fuse, now that my friends is one magical fuse!
Now as for the reason it flashed wired numbers and letters at me, MR M was right when i was taking out the head unit i unscrewed the wrong screw behind the dash. Which bent the piano black finish enough so that the connectors from the circuit board of the Main Console couldn't quite touch the connectors on the piano black side. This was easily remedied and there isn't any visual bend in the finish.
Now Can someone please confirm this was indeed the red and blue wire from the TPMS, not like my airbag deployment module or something, because if i lower my pressure enough the light still comes on. Did Mazdamaniac only intend this as a fix that when the sensors are out of range (not on the wheels) that it wouldn't throw a light?
#10
Evolution of REvolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Germany
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You got the right wire, it is the main power feed to the TPMS module, it was not the CAN. I just looked at the wiring diagram, and for some reason there are Blue/Red and Blue/White wires going in to that module, the same colors as the CAN wires!
The Blue/Yellow is the power from the ignition switch, the black the earth, the Green/Black and Blue/White ones are the CAN feed (speed information) from the PCM.
I still don't believe cutting that wire will disable the system, without causing trouble codes though.
The Blue/Yellow is the power from the ignition switch, the black the earth, the Green/Black and Blue/White ones are the CAN feed (speed information) from the PCM.
I still don't believe cutting that wire will disable the system, without causing trouble codes though.
#11
Originally Posted by Mr M
I still don't believe cutting that wire will disable the system, without causing trouble codes though.
#13
Evolution of REvolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Germany
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PoLaK
What the hell does that wire do.... its still cut and the system works fine... far as i can tell...... light comes on when i go below 26psi......
Like I said, it is the constant power supply (fused) for the unit. The TPMS has a 15 minute 'sleep' after switching the ignition off before actually shutting down, maybe that has something to do with it.
Just disconnect the connector and put a piece of black tape over the warning light! Be done with it...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shankapotamus3
Series I Trouble Shooting
28
03-14-2021 03:53 PM
JimmyBlack
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
273
02-10-2020 10:23 PM
Jelliott5384
Series I Interior, Audio, and Electronics
2
10-26-2016 05:15 PM