Help! Clutch pedal stuck, couldn't shift
10-24-2007, 08:11 PM
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Help! Clutch pedal stuck, couldn't shift
While waiting in stop and go traffic at the Lincoln tunnel my clutch pedal started to stick to the floor and wouldn't come up all the way. It got harder if not impossible to shift. The toll person had a cop turn me back around and I called a tow truck as by then it wouldn't go into 1st at all.
When the tow truck arrived the tech pulled my pedal up then asked my to start my engine after which the car shifted fine. I drove home changing gears without any trouble. He told me it could be the linkage most likely not the clutch. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have an 04 with 90,000 miles.
When the tow truck arrived the tech pulled my pedal up then asked my to start my engine after which the car shifted fine. I drove home changing gears without any trouble. He told me it could be the linkage most likely not the clutch. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have an 04 with 90,000 miles.
10-25-2007, 03:35 AM
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Had the same problem. Theres a TSB on the clutch which the dealership took care of. I'd look for it but it's pretty late. Anyways, did the same thing, I turned off the car and pulled the clutch off the floor myself. Took the car straight to the dealership, no problems shifting on the way there.
BTW, does your make any rattling noise when you depress the clutch at low RPMs? The person who told you it might be the linkage might be right, because the noise that I hear in my car sounds like a loose bolt.
well good luck. I'd like to hear more about this though, what youre going to do and what the dealership will do if you decide to bring it in.
BTW, does your make any rattling noise when you depress the clutch at low RPMs? The person who told you it might be the linkage might be right, because the noise that I hear in my car sounds like a loose bolt.
well good luck. I'd like to hear more about this though, what youre going to do and what the dealership will do if you decide to bring it in.
10-25-2007, 05:07 AM
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10-25-2007, 05:58 AM
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Had the same problem. Theres a TSB on the clutch which the dealership took care of. I'd look for it but it's pretty late. Anyways, did the same thing, I turned off the car and pulled the clutch off the floor myself. Took the car straight to the dealership, no problems shifting on the way there.
BTW, does your make any rattling noise when you depress the clutch at low RPMs? The person who told you it might be the linkage might be right, because the noise that I hear in my car sounds like a loose bolt.
well good luck. I'd like to hear more about this though, what youre going to do and what the dealership will do if you decide to bring it in.
BTW, does your make any rattling noise when you depress the clutch at low RPMs? The person who told you it might be the linkage might be right, because the noise that I hear in my car sounds like a loose bolt.
well good luck. I'd like to hear more about this though, what youre going to do and what the dealership will do if you decide to bring it in.
10-25-2007, 09:34 AM
#5
I've replaced a few clutch release cylinders (96 Miata and 97 Montero Sport), it doesn't require dropping trans. The cylinder is on the outside of the clutch housing. Sometimes can be a pain to reach but typically held in place by two bolts and then you need someone to depress the clutch pedal as you bleed new fluid to get out the air. The ones I've replaced cost about $80. On the 97 MS I also replaced some of the clutch hydraulic lines (150K miles). Not a difficult job but it will cost you a bit going to the dealer (figure somewhere around $200 with labor).
10-25-2007, 10:24 AM
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I've replaced a few clutch release cylinders (96 Miata and 97 Montero Sport), it doesn't require dropping trans. The cylinder is on the outside of the clutch housing. Sometimes can be a pain to reach but typically held in place by two bolts and then you need someone to depress the clutch pedal as you bleed new fluid to get out the air. The ones I've replaced cost about $80. On the 97 MS I also replaced some of the clutch hydraulic lines (150K miles). Not a difficult job but it will cost you a bit going to the dealer (figure somewhere around $200 with labor).
10-26-2007, 11:25 AM
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Took it to auto shop (non Mazda). I gave them the TSB and they checked it out. They couldn't find anything wrong. Hydraulics were good, no leaks. They mention the TSB issue was not the cause. They also said that mazda would probably be better able to find out what's wrong. It shifted fine all morning. I'm thinking that I'd try to re-enact with some local stop and go traffic this weekend. Will take it to Mazda Monday and have them look at it.
10-26-2007, 02:18 PM
#8
Doesn't sound like a problem with the clutch release cylinder or the clutch since it shifts fine. Since the clutch linkage is hydraulic it seems likely that the problem is mechanical in the pedal/pivot itself. Let us know if it happens again and/or what you find out.
10-29-2007, 12:35 PM
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I have an appointment Wednesday at Mazda for an oil change. I will casually mention that my clutch pedal stuck one day last week while I was in traffic and that it's been working fine since. I drove to work this morning in traffic about 35 mile one way, no problems. Have to be careful about how I broach the subject as to not get raped by Mazda 's service but also to make sure it is thouroughly checked. They are quick to say I'll probably need a new part before they even inspect. Thus my inspection at another mechanic first.
10-31-2007, 09:33 AM
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Took it to Mazda this morning for an oil change. Casually let them know that the pedal stuck one day last week but has been working fine ever since. They asked how many miles. I told them 90,000. They said I was due. Without even looking at it. Mazda!
10-31-2007, 11:32 AM
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I took it to another mechanic precisely for this reason. They mentioned they couldn't find anything wrong with it and get this, they told me they didn't want to just start replacing things for no apparent reason.
Either way, if it's the clutch bracket i wouldn't be covered at 90,000 miles anyway, would I?
10-31-2007, 11:54 AM
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The problem mentioned in the TSB shouldn't make your clutch pedal stick to the floor. The clutch should just become extremely easy to depress and the clutch might not fully disengage, and if it does it will fully engage just from letting off a little. I had that problem and they replaced my slave cylinder with no problems since. The problem would only crop up in the summer when in stop and go traffic, since the alcohol in the boot would expand as it got hotter.
It could be worth it to replace the slave cylinder, since it shouldn't be an extremely expensive part and you're a 2004, so alcohol was used in the manufacturing process.
It could be worth it to replace the slave cylinder, since it shouldn't be an extremely expensive part and you're a 2004, so alcohol was used in the manufacturing process.
10-31-2007, 12:02 PM
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Let me get this right. I was told if it was the master cylinder the clutch wouldn't work right at all, and if it's the slave cylinder, the clutch would give you problems when it's hot. Is this correct? I was sitting in Lincoln Tunnel traffic when I had my problem and I know for a fact that the car got real hot. I sat for an hour waiting for the tow and it worked fine when he arrived and ever since. The pedal felt real spongy and easy to depress.
10-31-2007, 01:31 PM
#16
Talan, The TSB description of the problem due to the ethanol expanding (as a gas) when it is hot. This would make the clutch pedal feel like there was a lot of free-play in the pedal and it would be hard to shift gears because the clutch would not be able to fully disengage when the pedal actually starts to move hydraulic fluid. Think of it as having a large gas bubble in the system. Bleeding may help but if the ethanol continues to gas out of the rubber boot then it could come back. This is different than the typical way that slave cylinders fail which is a hydraulic leak that develops, you lose fluid (slowly or rapidly) and the pedal just goes to the floor without doing anything. Your mechanic told you that there were no leaks so it isn't the Master cylinder or slave losing hydraulics.
If it were me (and I'm out of warranty as well), I would have my mechanic replace the slave cylinder or I would do it myself first before going into a new clutch. Hell, I have the original clutch in my SUV at 150K miles with a new slave cylinder and I had a Camry that ran 225K miles on the original clutch. Mileage isn't a good indicator of clutch replacement.
Ah, you beat me to it! Glad it came out to be the slave cylinder.
If it were me (and I'm out of warranty as well), I would have my mechanic replace the slave cylinder or I would do it myself first before going into a new clutch. Hell, I have the original clutch in my SUV at 150K miles with a new slave cylinder and I had a Camry that ran 225K miles on the original clutch. Mileage isn't a good indicator of clutch replacement.
Ah, you beat me to it! Glad it came out to be the slave cylinder.
Last edited by SilverStreak; 10-31-2007 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Add on
10-31-2007, 01:38 PM
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Talan, The TSB description of the problem due to the ethanol expanding (as a gas) when it is hot. This would make the clutch pedal feel like there was a lot of free-play in the pedal and it would be hard to shift gears because the clutch would not be able to fully disengage when the pedal actually starts to move hydraulic fluid. Think of it as having a large gas bubble in the system. Bleeding may help but if the ethanol continues to gas out of the rubber boot then it could come back. This is different than the typical way that slave cylinders fail which is a hydraulic leak that develops, you lose fluid (slowly or rapidly) and the pedal just goes to the floor without doing anything. Your mechanic told you that there were no leaks so it isn't the Master cylinder or slave losing hydraulics.
If it were me (and I'm out of warranty as well), I would have my mechanic replace the slave cylinder or I would do it myself first before going into a new clutch. Hell, I have the original clutch in my SUV at 150K miles with a new slave cylinder and I had a Camry that ran 225K miles on the original clutch. Mileage isn't a good indicator of clutch replacement.
Ah, you beat me to it! Glad it came out to be the slave cylinder.
If it were me (and I'm out of warranty as well), I would have my mechanic replace the slave cylinder or I would do it myself first before going into a new clutch. Hell, I have the original clutch in my SUV at 150K miles with a new slave cylinder and I had a Camry that ran 225K miles on the original clutch. Mileage isn't a good indicator of clutch replacement.
Ah, you beat me to it! Glad it came out to be the slave cylinder.
10-31-2007, 02:05 PM
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11-05-2007, 10:32 AM
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+1 on the dealership price and labor. But when I ordered a slave cylinder from AutoZone for my Montero Sport for $45 it turned out they gave me the wrong one. Looked close enough that I had the old one out and then the cylinder piston didn't align with the lever on the clutch. PO'd big time, ordered one from Mitsubishi dealership for $60. I went OEM on the wife's Miata slave cylinder for $75. So at least with a dealership you should get the right part when you DIY. I guess that I hit my estimate on dealer labor pretty close in #5.
03-01-2010, 03:40 AM
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I was sitting at the lights this morning just saying to the little lady that the car have been behaving well the last few weeks when low and behold the clutch panel decided not to leave the floor.
I tried slipping my foot under and pulling it up and it eventually sprung back into action (with a loud bang from the engine bay).
Does this sound like a possible slave clutch problem too?
I tried slipping my foot under and pulling it up and it eventually sprung back into action (with a loud bang from the engine bay).
Does this sound like a possible slave clutch problem too?