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No Mazda dealers in Pakistan. Rolls yes/ Range Rover / BMW yes yes just not mazda ford and alfa romeo.
My 2004 auto is giving me trouble. 61k km oil change every 1500 km. Changed coils and plugs 4 k km ago. The car about two weeks ago just blew the Bose Amp. I tried to get it fixed but will probably have to get a new one. A couple of days later on starting the car it showed the CEL and went into limp mode. Got my diagnostics out and it shows P1688. Which is the oil metering pump circuit.
Then got the engine cover off and the battery and everything. A water/coolant pipe juts above the oil pump/metering pump had leaked and coolant got into the connector. Fixed it. The car had not overheated and the coolant loss was only a drip and minimal but certainly into the connector. Got the sensor out and the wire and had it cleaned and the connectors dried out. Removed the CEL but it came back again and car started in limp mode. Cleared KAM in desperation and same thing happened but for the fact that it started stalling at idle as well.
Restarted it a few score times and it once went out of limp mode.Drove it in limp mode 25 km to my home. Got fed up and parked it in the garage alongside with classics and used the FD for four days. Restarted the RX8 and it ran fine... no issues.. good performance. Switched it off ... same thing ... ran fine. Thought problem had gone away. Used it all evening...several starts. went to a friends... parked outside.. temp 12 celsius. Came back... limp mode again. CEL P1688
Is it the oil metering pump? Is it the sensor? Do I need to replace the wiring as well. I need the part numbers for the harness, Pump and sensor as well. Also the Bose amp.... thats where it all started. Could this be linked.Shall I just get a good electrician.
Help guys.
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There is a positioning switch in the "sensor" If it is crapped up inside it won;t work properly. I would try and clean it inside with contact cleaner..and then reset it.
You will likely have to remove the pump...and manually return it to the zero position by hand..and then reset the switch so that it reads zero...and then it should work
Did you remove the sensor to clean it out?..if you did and didn't reset the pump that is what started the problem...
There is a positioning switch in the "sensor" If it is crapped up inside it won;t work properly. I would try and clean it inside with contact cleaner..and then reset it.
You will likely have to remove the pump...and manually return it to the zero position by hand..and then reset the switch so that it reads zero...and then it should work
Did you remove the sensor to clean it out?..if you did and didn't reset the pump that is what started the problem...
PM me if you have any questions
Thanks a lot. will try it... By the way... I am a doctor so kindly forgive the idiotic question... how does one reset the pump to zero .. any links would be appreciated.
Cheers... will keep you posted
Are you doing the work yourself? If you are then the easiest way is to remove the pump from the car...and the switch ( black thing ) and turn the rotating piece clockwise to close it all the way..then carefully put the switch back on in the rotated position as well....then re-install the pump
Unless of course he is a Proctologist!
Reminds me of Kramer having the "Ass man" license plate!
He He... neurosurgeon actually... put that in as I am not an engineer and so would need guidance. I suppose mechanically electrically proficient guys would need less.
Hey Kamhus,
Can you please let us know about your OMP/DTC1688 problem. What is the outcome? If this (or OMP related) problem appear again?
I also have similar problem (DTC1686) and now in the process of deciding the best approach to it...
If anyone can give me any advice - you're more then welcome!
) and turn the rotating piece clockwise to close it all the way..then carefully put the switch back on in the rotated position as well....then re-install the pump
Linear Mode
