Good old rust!!
#1
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Thread Starter
Good old rust!!
So I bought this car back in March with 64,000 miles, new tires, new oil cooler lines, new oil pan, etc for $5500. Car runs like a dream, handles well. I love it so much, I would buy another RX-8 in a heart beat AFTER DOING A DEEP CHECK. I bought it from my aunt (original owner, purchased late 2003) She took care of it, BUT it was a daily driver. In the winter, she would put snow tires on it. I knew it had surface rust when I looked at it. Some paint bubbling, and the wheel fender lips looked terrible. My plan was to chip away lose rust, coat it in Miracle paint (similar to POR15, Rust Bullet, etc) and epoxy sheet metal, fiberglass cloth and stuff to patch the holes. I did some grinding with my new Hazard Freight grinder, and.. Not really sure what to say. Guess I'll just patch what I can and paint it. The pinch welds where the rocker panels meet also looks like it was either improperly jacked up at some point, or something hit it. Considering both sides of the car have the bend, I'll guess it was jacked improperly. Perhaps that was the start of the rust (compromised pinch weld resulting in rust)
I've seen other 2004 RX-8s in New England (specifically Massachusetts where I live) and none of them are this bad. Lots of them don't even have visible surface rust. Now I don't have any compression tests for my engine, but I'm assuming it's okay. No starting issues regardless if the engine is hot or cold, and smooth power all the way to redline.
What should I do about the car besides patching. This kind of rust bothers me unfortunately. I'm wondering if I should try and find another RX-8 with a blown engine and swap my stuff over, or sell the car in a year or so and take a hit?
I've seen other 2004 RX-8s in New England (specifically Massachusetts where I live) and none of them are this bad. Lots of them don't even have visible surface rust. Now I don't have any compression tests for my engine, but I'm assuming it's okay. No starting issues regardless if the engine is hot or cold, and smooth power all the way to redline.
What should I do about the car besides patching. This kind of rust bothers me unfortunately. I'm wondering if I should try and find another RX-8 with a blown engine and swap my stuff over, or sell the car in a year or so and take a hit?
#3
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Thread Starter
Yup, and it's not worth it. For the price I paid, replacing panels would probably be enough to buy a nice series II RX-8. Plus it would need rockers, and who knows what else. Unless I could get a nice RX-8 body for cheap, I guess I'll just patch and paint it the best I can, drive it, sell it, and buy a nicer RX-8. Anyone else have rust on their RX-8?
#4
Super Moderator
Unfortunately where Mazda rolls the outer 1/4 panel lip, and the inner 1/4 lip 'Join' leaves a large air gap of about 4 mm in some places, salt, dirt and water hangs there and rust starts.
Then if you get stones chipping that bottom front lip next to your sill panel ends then rust can start there too...
I know there were a lot of early 8's in UK with blisters coming through externally over the wheel arch paint and Mazda covered most under the 6 year perforation warranty.
Really not much you can do once a car gets old, when I first got my 8 I removed the rear inner wheel arch felt mats and made sure any gaps between the inner and outer 1/4 panels were sealed, and then I sprayed over area with a deadener tar to also help sealing.??
Did the same on my then new MX-5 which had an even bigger arch gap to fill.
After it dried I re-installed the inner felt liners..
Does it help?, will it stop any corrosion?...so far so good...probably a complete waste of time on my part.
But yeah, unless you are prepared to spend money on body repairs then I would probably flick it or part it out?
Then if you get stones chipping that bottom front lip next to your sill panel ends then rust can start there too...
I know there were a lot of early 8's in UK with blisters coming through externally over the wheel arch paint and Mazda covered most under the 6 year perforation warranty.
Really not much you can do once a car gets old, when I first got my 8 I removed the rear inner wheel arch felt mats and made sure any gaps between the inner and outer 1/4 panels were sealed, and then I sprayed over area with a deadener tar to also help sealing.??
Did the same on my then new MX-5 which had an even bigger arch gap to fill.
After it dried I re-installed the inner felt liners..
Does it help?, will it stop any corrosion?...so far so good...probably a complete waste of time on my part.
But yeah, unless you are prepared to spend money on body repairs then I would probably flick it or part it out?
#5
Ouch, I feel your pain. I received my RX-8 from whoever its previous owner was with the rust creeping just under the surface of the edges of the quarter panels and around the trunk light among other things...
Just forked over the cash to have all of the rust repaired at the beginning of this summer; the body shop also found that the hidden underside of the rocker panels had rotted through as well. They repaired them and put a nice thick coating of rocker guard and rustproofing on all the undersides/wheel well edges.
Just forked over the cash to have all of the rust repaired at the beginning of this summer; the body shop also found that the hidden underside of the rocker panels had rotted through as well. They repaired them and put a nice thick coating of rocker guard and rustproofing on all the undersides/wheel well edges.
#6
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Mine's not that bad, but the all the trouble areas are exactly the same. Definitely an engineering issue on the earlier models. I've even seen older Mazda 3s with major rust in the exact same area. In the rear fender wells and along the seam where the panels come together.
Last edited by 77mjd; 08-15-2015 at 12:10 PM.
#8
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Thread Starter
Not sure, but I've seen several other 2004, 2005 RX-8 in my area with no rust (or very little) whatsoever. My pinch welds and outer rocker panel were also crunched upwards on both sides leading me to think that the car was lifted improperly at some point. Then the area would be vulnerable, and prone to rusting. Once it starts, it spreads. For rust to start, something has to be compromised.
I think I'll patch it up the best I can, paint it, sell it, and take what little I get and put it towards a nicer RX-8. I wish someone had a perfect RX-8 body with a blown engine and wasn't asking such high prices ($2500) that I could buy and switch stuff over. But it's probably better to just get a whole new car.
I think I'll patch it up the best I can, paint it, sell it, and take what little I get and put it towards a nicer RX-8. I wish someone had a perfect RX-8 body with a blown engine and wasn't asking such high prices ($2500) that I could buy and switch stuff over. But it's probably better to just get a whole new car.
#9
Super Moderator
Nope..
Mazda like so many other brands has a very very thin paint and clear coat, frankly one of the worse manufacturers out there, if they can save a few mils or ounces of paint they will, good old bean counters.
Probably more than anything Mazda's paint is my main bug bear, yes it looks good where you can see it, it is where you cant see is what concerns me.
Sharp stones can break into the thin paint very easy and rust starts fast if not 'touched up'....it is a PITA.
One really has to be **** around these areas, particularly in countries where salt is applied to roads.
Mazda like so many other brands has a very very thin paint and clear coat, frankly one of the worse manufacturers out there, if they can save a few mils or ounces of paint they will, good old bean counters.
Probably more than anything Mazda's paint is my main bug bear, yes it looks good where you can see it, it is where you cant see is what concerns me.
Sharp stones can break into the thin paint very easy and rust starts fast if not 'touched up'....it is a PITA.
One really has to be **** around these areas, particularly in countries where salt is applied to roads.
#10
Zoom Zoom
Thread Starter
Mine's not that bad, but the all the trouble areas are exactly the same. Definitely an engineering issue on the earlier models. I've even seen older Mazda 3s with major rust in the exact same area. In the rear fender wells and along the seam where the panels come together.
#11
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Thread Starter
Can anyone post photos on the lower quarter panel wheel arch/rocker panel area? Need a photo so I can shape the metal and then fiberglass filler correctly.
#12
Check out this one, Local guy to me, but I have not seen the car.
https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5173375229.html
I picked mine up with a blown motor for $1600 its silver.
https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5173375229.html
I picked mine up with a blown motor for $1600 its silver.
#13
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Thread Starter
If I found one with a blown motor near by for a good price, then I would think about it.
I'm wondering if anyone would even buy my car for $4000 or so with the rust it has. I spent $5500 on the car. Say I drive it 6 more months (I would have had it a year then) and sell it for $4000 the lowest. Then I basically spent $1500 ($125 a month) for a super fun loaded sports car. Doesn't seem to bad. BUT is my car even worth $4000 with the rust it has...?
Also, can anyone post photos on the lower wheel arch/rocker panel area (inside the wheel well, and out side) So much material is gone, I need something to work off of.
I'm wondering if anyone would even buy my car for $4000 or so with the rust it has. I spent $5500 on the car. Say I drive it 6 more months (I would have had it a year then) and sell it for $4000 the lowest. Then I basically spent $1500 ($125 a month) for a super fun loaded sports car. Doesn't seem to bad. BUT is my car even worth $4000 with the rust it has...?
Also, can anyone post photos on the lower wheel arch/rocker panel area (inside the wheel well, and out side) So much material is gone, I need something to work off of.
#14
If I found one with a blown motor near by for a good price, then I would think about it.
I'm wondering if anyone would even buy my car for $4000 or so with the rust it has. I spent $5500 on the car. Say I drive it 6 more months (I would have had it a year then) and sell it for $4000 the lowest. Then I basically spent $1500 ($125 a month) for a super fun loaded sports car. Doesn't seem to bad. BUT is my car even worth $4000 with the rust it has...?
Also, can anyone post photos on the lower wheel arch/rocker panel area (inside the wheel well, and out side) So much material is gone, I need something to work off of.
I'm wondering if anyone would even buy my car for $4000 or so with the rust it has. I spent $5500 on the car. Say I drive it 6 more months (I would have had it a year then) and sell it for $4000 the lowest. Then I basically spent $1500 ($125 a month) for a super fun loaded sports car. Doesn't seem to bad. BUT is my car even worth $4000 with the rust it has...?
Also, can anyone post photos on the lower wheel arch/rocker panel area (inside the wheel well, and out side) So much material is gone, I need something to work off of.
No, your car is not worth 4000. Sorry I wish it was. I'm contemplating selling my shell that needs a motor, I could deliver it to your door. If your interested PM me.
#15
I just bought an '04 8 for $1k with 141k miles on it and im looking to do a restore. It's in great condition except for the rust. I'm at work right now, so I'll post pictures when I get home, but there is rust on the front wheel well, rear wheel well, and the pinch weld is starting bubbling.
I started cutting and grinding away some of the body to see the extent of what I was dealing with. After looking at it, I'm really only worried about the pinch weld.
I can't find anything online that will tell me where the main structural components of the car are, so I can't really tell if the rust I'm looking at is damning or not. Like I said before, I will post pictures later, but can anyone tell me if they've seen this before?
The car is in great condition and I can get my money back easily by parting it out, but I'd really like to finish the project.
I started cutting and grinding away some of the body to see the extent of what I was dealing with. After looking at it, I'm really only worried about the pinch weld.
I can't find anything online that will tell me where the main structural components of the car are, so I can't really tell if the rust I'm looking at is damning or not. Like I said before, I will post pictures later, but can anyone tell me if they've seen this before?
The car is in great condition and I can get my money back easily by parting it out, but I'd really like to finish the project.
#16
Does anyone make a patch panel for the wheel arch? Looking quickly its about $400 a side for a quarter, a repair that would exceed the value of the car. I guess I could roll some out, but why reinvent the wheel (arch)
#18
Registered
Hi. I have a 2004 Mazda RX8. I have alot of rust after a rust treatment I had done at least 10 years ago. It's on the wheel wells, and under the side skirts. There is alot of it, both sides. I can't get it fixed, because it's expensive and welding is involved. Anyone else have a problem? I hope it passes inspection next month. The engine is good, 143000 miles, not a single problem in 14 years since I bought it. Just rust. I'd appreciate anyones feedback.
Thanks,
Chad
Thanks,
Chad
Last edited by cmaderia10; 07-24-2023 at 01:23 PM. Reason: added pictures of rust
#20
Super Moderator
Nope..
Mazda like so many other brands has a very very thin paint and clear coat, frankly one of the worse manufacturers out there, if they can save a few mils or ounces of paint they will, good old bean counters.
Probably more than anything Mazda's paint is my main bug bear, yes it looks good where you can see it, it is where you cant see is what concerns me.
Sharp stones can break into the thin paint very easy and rust starts fast if not 'touched up'....it is a PITA.
One really has to be **** around these areas, particularly in countries where salt is applied to roads.
Mazda like so many other brands has a very very thin paint and clear coat, frankly one of the worse manufacturers out there, if they can save a few mils or ounces of paint they will, good old bean counters.
Probably more than anything Mazda's paint is my main bug bear, yes it looks good where you can see it, it is where you cant see is what concerns me.
Sharp stones can break into the thin paint very easy and rust starts fast if not 'touched up'....it is a PITA.
One really has to be **** around these areas, particularly in countries where salt is applied to roads.
The NEXT Generation Mazda's or what MMC calls the 7th Generation there has been extensive use of plastic finishers,
like Brand new from Ground Up CX-90, CX-60, CX-70 and other cars.
These are FULL Wheel Arch Liners, Sill Panel Plastic Covers, even alloy (aluminium) Hoods or Bonnets and Boot or Trunk Lids.
So I can still keep my close to 50 year faith in Mazda brand.
BTW: Both my Mazda's have basically been trouble free...apart from 2 Recalls.
#21
Hi. I have a 2004 Mazda RX8. I have alot of rust after a rust treatment I had done at least 10 years ago. It's on the wheel wells, and under the side skirts. There is alot of it, both sides. I can't get it fixed, because it's expensive and welding is involved. Anyone else have a problem? I hope it passes inspection next month. The engine is good, 143000 miles, not a single problem in 14 years since I bought it. Just rust. I'd appreciate anyones feedback.
Thanks,
Chad
Thanks,
Chad
#22
Registered
Thanks. Yeah, basically I am not looking to treat or replace these panels. They were already treated. I am looking to see if you think this car will last me based on the rust you see in the pictures. Is there a chassis to this. That would be the more important part, don't you think. These panels are not for operational purposes are they, just cosmetic? I would appreciate any input? Thank you.
Chad
Chad
#25
Registered
Yeah, I don't think I'll be able to fix this problem, because from what I understand everything is welded in.
I had it treated about 8 years ago with some minor rust, but it is spreading like crazy now. I hope its still feasible that it works.
I had it treated about 8 years ago with some minor rust, but it is spreading like crazy now. I hope its still feasible that it works.