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I have an 04 with a hair over 7K miles on the odometer. Over the past month my 8 has developed a "clunk" in the front, passenger's side wheel assembly. It feels just like when a shock/strut has worn out. Anytime I go over rough pavement (which is often in Mass) I can feel the wheel bouncing through the steering wheel. Although, handling doesn't seem to have been compromised at all. Also since the "clunking" began, I hear an occasional grinding noise coming from the same area when taking a left hand turn (around 30mph...nothing too agressive). I think it's safe to say the two symptoms are related.
With only 7k miles, I find it hard to believe that the shock is gone. Could there be something loose in the front suspension assembly?
I'm planning on visiting good ol' 128 Mazda with this problem and my squeaky seats in the next couple weeks. Clearly, since my car only has 7K miles on it, Mazda should be responsible for fixing the clunking. Does anyone have any advice on how to convince them of this. I anticipate some resistance on their part given that any suspension issues are normally wear-and-tear related.
Any advice is appreciated
-J
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just because it is on an low mileage car doesnt mean its warreenty. for instance if you lost control momentarily and slammed that side up over a curb and broke something- that would not be covered. but your insurance might pay for it . etc. get it diagnosed first before deciding "this should be covered"
I've already looked at the TSBs and unfortunately this feels like a suspension problem.
Also, I've never curbed the car or done anything that would ostensibly cause such a problem. When I assert that this should be covered under warranty I am taking into consideration the fact that the car has very low-mileage and has been babied. If I thought I had caused the problem then I wouldnt expect Mazda to fix it on their own dime.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone else with this same problem.
I kind of figured if he smacked it up a curb he wouldn't be asking us what the cause of the noise might be, and probably wouldn't expect it covered under warranty. :D
I haven't seen this before either Jack. Good luck and post the results.
I had a driver's side front shock blow out at 20,000 miles or so. I hit nothing, crunched agaisnt no curbs or any such, but I live in Pennsylvania, which is quite similar in pot holed road worthiness to Mass. I did hit some potholes from my house to work fairly regularly and that probably did it, however, I consider it a pretty cheap shock that blows out that fast.
Do yourself a favor. Check the shock yourself before you go to the dealer. I took it in, and they told me that all was fine under the car when I reported the clunk so I took the car home then checked it myself. There was oil all over the base of the spring. It was impossible to believe that any mechanic of any level of competence could have missed it. In my opinion, my local tech is very lazy and bad and refused to check the car.
Instead of fighting with the dealership, I ended up buying Konis and putting them on the car under the theory that if the shock blew out this fast, because of potholes, any replacement shock would simply do the same, and why drive on a car with constantly blowing shocks. For me upgrading was the right choice. However, I also believe that the Tokicos in the car are not up the task of driving on potholed roads. They also don't ride with a great deal of control compared to the Konis, but that's a different question altogether.
If your shock is blown, it will be easy to see because there will be oil all over the base of the spring and leaking evident on the shock piston. Best of luck.
You may also want to check the upper control arm bolts to see if they are loose. When I had my springs change there is a thread here about keeping the bolts loose until the car had settled on it weight. I drove the car around the block slowly to help with the settling and I can hear clunking noise whenever I hit some road bump or get up on my driveway. This might be what you are hearing.
I had a similar problem at 9K miles, the dealer performed the TSB, changed the swaybar bushing... the noise was still there. Finally they replaced the strut - no more noise!
I think I have the exact same problem. Does it sometimes make an incredibly loud racket when under hard braking over certain road surfaces? Also, can you hear it on a speed bump for instance?
Also, is it the strut or the shock.. .or are those the same things? I dont know much about suspensions
Oh yeah, you can hear it going over a speed bump. Sounds like hell. The suspension is complicated enough that you don't hear it all the time, but catch a bump the right way and clunk.
A shock and a strut perform the same function in a suspension so you will never have both, however, I think that in the 8 it is a shock only and not a strut, but I am perfectly happy to be flamed if I am wrong. The terms are often used interchangeably although they are not the same thing.
i have what sounds like the same clunk. It is from something pretty connected to the frame and or suspension and feels/sounds like it comes from both sides of the front.
I haven't taken it in yet and will check the shocks myself but for me, the noise has started since I installed my RB sway bars. I have regreased and tightened them and that had no effect.
My expectation from my dealer is that they will point all fingers at the bars and waste a day but I will take it in anyway if my shocks look okay.
i have what sounds like the same clunk. It is from something pretty connected to the frame and or suspension and feels/sounds like it comes from both sides of the front.
I haven't taken it in yet and will check the shocks myself but for me, the noise has started since I installed my RB sway bars. I have regreased and tightened them and that had no effect.
My expectation from my dealer is that they will point all fingers at the bars and waste a day but I will take it in anyway if my shocks look okay.
Craig
I doubt that it's your shocks. My guess is that there is a problem with the installation of the endlinks into your new sway bar. As I recall the procedure from Racing Beat, they were very detailed about how to drill out your mounting points and getting the orientation of the endlink correct. Apparently, there was a problem with owners putting them in backwards and causing clunking. Just a thought.
As I recall the procedure from Racing Beat, they were very detailed about how to drill out your mounting points and getting the orientation of the endlink correct. Apparently, there was a problem with owners putting them in backwards and causing clunking. Just a thought.
Of course, that applies only if he installed the optional RB end links.
Willhave8: Did you torque the bolts/nuts associated with the RB swaybars to spec? If not, loosen and tighten them to spec using a good torque wrench. If you don't have the torque specs, I can provide them.
Of course, that applies only if he installed the optional RB end links.
Willhave8: Did you torque the bolts/nuts associated with the RB swaybars to spec? If not, loosen and tighten them to spec using a good torque wrench. If you don't have the torque specs, I can provide them.
Actually, if he pulled the OEM endlinks completely out of the car while installing the sway bar then it is possible to reinstall the OEM links on the wrong side as well. Both the Racing Beat and OEM endlinks are directional and need to be reinstalled/installed in the appropriate orientation, at least according to Racing Beat and Mazda. It's in the service manual that the endlinks are marked for which side they go on, and that's all that I was trying to get at. Sorry if I was oblique
Ok now I'm confused again... is the clunk because of the lower control arm/ball joint or because of a blown shock?
If it were the shock, would I know because it happens suddenly and loudly? I cant remember it doing that. Plus, if it happened a long time ago, would the oil still be all over the shock?
The shock usually will go bad slowly and there will be oil all over the base of your spring.
As for the other potential causes of clunks, lower ball joint is definitely on the list, but I discounted it because there is no proper reason for a lower ball joint ot be going bad on a car this new, but then there are always manufacturing and engineering defects which seem to be the case. Ball joints are nothing to play around with. If you think you have that problem, get it checked by the dealer as soon as possible.
ok thanks for the help.. im going to have it checked tomorrow, if i can figure out whether i can get my car back from them without signing my life away for the other recall
I kind of figured if he smacked it up a curb he wouldn't be asking us what the cause of the noise might be, and probably wouldn't expect it covered under warranty.
:D 
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