2tone

iTrader: (3)

i had a power loss issue about a month ago, no problems since.

every time i start my car though, it immediately jumps to between 2 and 3000 rpms. takes a good couple minutes to come down to normal (i let it warm up before i drive). is this normal??

also, the check engine light comes on, but after a minute or two it will go away. it usually comes on once for a minute or two if i drove over 15 minutes or so, but it always turns off pretty quickly.

i know if i take it to the dealer they'll say, "the light's not on, we didn't notice anything wrong." any thoughts on what it could be, if anything?

2tone

iTrader: (3)

k, i didn't know they would/could do that. i'll try to do it tomorrow.

mzrx

I would check the ignition coils too. Your situation is similar to mine, your coils might be going bad. How many miles do you have on the odo and when was the last major tune up you did on the car? Just curious.

2tone

iTrader: (3)

^ just over 46k i think. the last major check up was ... 35k? whatever it was i got it late, i think around 40k, but i don't remember. i'll have to look it up.

i'm ok with the engine light for now, b/c it's flickering, it's not staying on. but what about that high idle at start-up. does anyone else have THAT? i can't remember back far enough to know if it's always done that, or if it's b/c it's getting colder, or if it's more serious. i just can't remember -- i'm pretty sure it's not normal to turn on and immediately go to 3000 rpms.

when i had my compression test, they checked the coils and said they were fine, that's all i know...

2tone

iTrader: (3)

for some reason the post about going to auto zone was deleted ...

anyway, i went there and they said they couldn't see if there were any codes unless the light was currently ON. bs, right? i thought the car stored the codes. i guess i'll have to go to the dealer...

Redpit10

I dont think the auto zone code reader is advanced enough to read stored codes. Probably have to go to the dealer for that. I would rest my computer if I were you. Just unplug the bottom 15 amp fuse under the dash for a few minutes and put it back in. Did you do anything to the car (mod wise)? If so it could be from you not re-setting the pc afterward. As far as idle I would say its normal. 3g's is a bit on the high side, but all cars idle high at start up.

2tone

iTrader: (3)

thanks redpit.

i started paying closer attention -- it jumps to just over 2000 rpms. the one or two times it was up over 2500 i think it was very cold out, so that might be why. it's warmer today, it still went to 2000 at start-up but it seemed to drop down faster to idle, presumably b/c it was already kinda warm given the ambient temps ... ?

nothing mod wise, unfortunately. i have no idea where the 15amp fuse is but i'll search around and try that out...

Redpit10

Np. The fuse is box is on the driver side to the left of the steering wheel and just to the left and under the hood pull. I would say your definately normal with the 2,000 startup idle, and yes temp plays a big role in how high the rpms jump.

Redpit10

Np. The fuse is box is on the driver side to the left of the steering wheel and just to the left and under the hood pull. I would say your definately normal with the 2,000 startup idle, and yes temp plays a big role in how high the rpms jump.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

When the Check Engine Light blinks it usually means there is a more immediate problem. That's why those with midpipes that have the rear O2 CEL, that CEL doesn't blink- it's solid because it doesn't pose immediate threat to the motor.

If you have a blinking CEL at idle there is a slight chance you have a trailing coil going bad. The PCM stores Trouble Codes so the dealer can easily retrieve what CEL you have.

Redpit10

I got the idea that the cel came on for a min., then dissappered. But if it is constantly flickering, then chicken is definately right. I beleive that kind of cel is most likely accompainied by a chime also.

2tone

iTrader: (3)

^thanks c-wafer

i don't know if we're on the same page. i guess "flickering" isn't the right word. it's not -going on-going off-going on-going off like a blinker, it's more that it comes on at start-up and is on for about two or three minutes, then goes off for good...

i understand what you're saying ... does that still possibly apply or did my use of "flickering" throw you off?

2tone

iTrader: (3)

sorry for the confusion guys, as of now, it is not flickering. it's on, then it's off. thanks again for the info redpit. i'll try that fuse tonight or in the morning. if that doesn't work, i'll head to the dealer next time i get a chance -- they're not too close and i'm about to go out of town.

DarkBrew

I bought myself a scan gauge and I'm able to read any codes as well as any stored engine states. I see it as an investment that will pay off when you consider what dealers charge for 'diagnosing' a problem.
You can randomly check everything on the car or you can pull the code when it happens and find out for sure.

2tone

iTrader: (3)

a little pricey ... i def see the benefit if you're out of warranty or just like doing things yourself, but if my car is still under warranty, the diagnosis should be free.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

OK, my bad. I thought you meant it was constantly blinking.


If you only have a CEL on start-up, the issue is more than likely cold start related. Your Air Pump may not be working. That is the first cold-start emissions device that comes to mind.

If you can get an OBD-II reader, the code is P0456

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if it just happens on startup, then it turns off, it could be a lot of things.

but like chicken saids, get a code reader, its a pretty good investment, just buy some OBD-II scanner that support CAN bus. you're all set. works for most cars out there. and usually last the life of any car you have.

DarkBrew

Ha ha, 'cus you obviously trust the dealer to look after you...

2tone

iTrader: (3)

good catch! now that i know they can access "stored" codes, then i can be more persistent -- i'm sure they'd at least come back with some sort of code that i could post here for you guys to help me and go from there. also, i'm broke as **** right now, so i need to at least TRY the free route, maybe i'll end up getting that scanner anyway down the road

thanks c-wafer, i'll keep that in mind when i get a code...

DarkBrew

The codes are listed in online manuals like this one http://smrmicro.com/rx8servicemanual/

2tone

iTrader: (3)

so ... just heard from mazda.

they are replacing my left taillight (unrelated, but luckily it happened at 47k and not 48,001k!

i had a thread about power steering loss, (here) too.

so, the lady said they are replacing a *something i can't remember now* that has to do with the power steering -- box, harness, something, i'm blanking on the word she used -- AND then she said they were NO stored codes for my cel and that they are thinking the ps issue was causing the cel. fine by me, except my cel has been coming on for numerous weeks, and the ps loss just occurred last week -- i guess it COULD be true, it just seems like it would be unrelated.

also, if this means anything, right before the ps loss (right before = about 3 or 4 days), the cel would come on at start-up, but it would also come on at highway speeds (>68mph). once i got below 65mph or so, the light would come off. don't know if anyone can comment on why the cel would be on at high speeds but not low speeds. also, why would there not be a stored code for that?