Driver Door Will Not Open
01-29-2014, 04:46 PM
#126
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Been following this thread all day trying to fix the lock on my drivers door. I'm at my wit's end with my car, spent almost 9k in repairs over the last year including 2800 to fix the power steering less than a week ago. And now my door doesn't work. I'm in no way even close to a mechanic or anything, more computer tech than auto. But so far, I've finally managed to get my panel off, and took out half the bolts to the inner black plastic however I cannot pull it out further thanks to the item you'll see in the pic below. That's problem number 1. It's connected to a large black plastic item on the other side that connects to the wires in the pic and that in turn is connected to the door frame. Not sure how to take it off. Problem number 2: I can reach in and pull on the second rod, but all that does is the same thing as when I hit unlock on my keyless entry or door controls. I hear one click, followed by a second click and nothing. I haven't attempted to cut open the plastic box yet since that object is in the way and it's keeping me from pulling the black plastic further. Any ideas?
*edit. Seems I'm having the exact same problem as Drakan290 here.
*edit. Seems I'm having the exact same problem as Drakan290 here.
Last edited by Jordan1182; 01-29-2014 at 04:53 PM.
01-29-2014, 05:07 PM
#127
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This issue is a bitch, there is no way to guide you on how to get it without being there. But it doesn't happen often and when it does it is almost always on RX-8's are at least 10 years old. $2800 for steering? Man you got raped, you can replace the whole rack for under $500.00.
01-29-2014, 05:14 PM
#128
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This issue is a bitch, there is no way to guide you on how to get it without being there. But it doesn't happen often and when it does it is almost always on RX-8's are at least 10 years old. $2800 for steering? Man you got raped, you can replace the whole rack for under $500.00.
01-29-2014, 05:32 PM
#129
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Steering issues are probably the most misdiagnosed issue known to the RX-8. Very rarely is the actual rack the problem and even if it were they can be found for cheap all over. But oh well, too late now.
01-31-2014, 10:37 AM
#130
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Ok that little black plastic box with the white clip. The wires/clip can be removed from that box and from my memory you won't be able to completely remove the black plastic cover. (At least I wasn't because I had to do all these things with the door closed)
After you remove as many clips/bolts from the black plastic cover that you can move it and stretch your arm in through the top between the window and the black cover, remember those rods that seem to work the locks? Well they're 2 of them and they lead down into another box that has a thick plastic cover.
You'll know you have the right box because the cable that actuates the inside handle will connect to it, the plastic is more of a cover and not an actual solid box, and the plastic would be rather soft and somewhat bendable.
Also you probably will barely be able to see this box if at all.
You will want to cut open the face that points toward the front of the car and there should be a little wheel right inside maybe a little lower, just follow the rods and you'll feel it. I found that the single razor blades work best. You will need to turn the wheel, hold it (spring actuated), and unlock the car and open the door. (Something like that, I had to keep messing with it before I got the door open)
Hopefully this helps!
After you remove as many clips/bolts from the black plastic cover that you can move it and stretch your arm in through the top between the window and the black cover, remember those rods that seem to work the locks? Well they're 2 of them and they lead down into another box that has a thick plastic cover.
You'll know you have the right box because the cable that actuates the inside handle will connect to it, the plastic is more of a cover and not an actual solid box, and the plastic would be rather soft and somewhat bendable.
Also you probably will barely be able to see this box if at all.
You will want to cut open the face that points toward the front of the car and there should be a little wheel right inside maybe a little lower, just follow the rods and you'll feel it. I found that the single razor blades work best. You will need to turn the wheel, hold it (spring actuated), and unlock the car and open the door. (Something like that, I had to keep messing with it before I got the door open)
Hopefully this helps!
01-31-2014, 12:29 PM
#131
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Ok that little black plastic box with the white clip. The wires/clip can be removed from that box and from my memory you won't be able to completely remove the black plastic cover. (At least I wasn't because I had to do all these things with the door closed)
After you remove as many clips/bolts from the black plastic cover that you can move it and stretch your arm in through the top between the window and the black cover, remember those rods that seem to work the locks? Well they're 2 of them and they lead down into another box that has a thick plastic cover.
You'll know you have the right box because the cable that actuates the inside handle will connect to it, the plastic is more of a cover and not an actual solid box, and the plastic would be rather soft and somewhat bendable.
Also you probably will barely be able to see this box if at all.
You will want to cut open the face that points toward the front of the car and there should be a little wheel right inside maybe a little lower, just follow the rods and you'll feel it. I found that the single razor blades work best. You will need to turn the wheel, hold it (spring actuated), and unlock the car and open the door. (Something like that, I had to keep messing with it before I got the door open)
Hopefully this helps!
After you remove as many clips/bolts from the black plastic cover that you can move it and stretch your arm in through the top between the window and the black cover, remember those rods that seem to work the locks? Well they're 2 of them and they lead down into another box that has a thick plastic cover.
You'll know you have the right box because the cable that actuates the inside handle will connect to it, the plastic is more of a cover and not an actual solid box, and the plastic would be rather soft and somewhat bendable.
Also you probably will barely be able to see this box if at all.
You will want to cut open the face that points toward the front of the car and there should be a little wheel right inside maybe a little lower, just follow the rods and you'll feel it. I found that the single razor blades work best. You will need to turn the wheel, hold it (spring actuated), and unlock the car and open the door. (Something like that, I had to keep messing with it before I got the door open)
Hopefully this helps!
Last edited by Jordan1182; 01-31-2014 at 12:31 PM.
02-05-2014, 09:37 AM
#133
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It's not the rods, it's a broken spring (see the pic I posted). There is no way to explain how to do it over the internet honestly. We have done it twice here locally, it just takes patience and fiddling with the latch.
02-05-2014, 01:22 PM
#134
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Then I assume I missed something, because the others were stating they were able to push down on the second rod and it opened the door but that just doesn't happen with mine. And the other problem remains that I cannot get the inner black plastic piece off due to some other attachment and wires that I'd have to break free before I'd have enough slack to uncouple the connections.
02-10-2014, 11:57 AM
#135
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Well, not sure what to say here. After two weeks of having my door locked and getting in through the passenger side, I noticed my passenger door light wouldn't turn off. Pull into a gas station and shut the passenger door again but the light stays on and my dash has the open door light on. I figure ok, so I try to open my driver's door, lo and behold it opens and the locks work fine... I was thinking maybe it was frozen but we've had warmer and colder days than the day it originally got stuck so I'm at a loss as to the original problem. Now I just gotta find a way to get the cable back onto the inner driver's door handle so I can open it from the inside.
02-10-2014, 02:04 PM
#137
Rotary Evolution
i would also, unless you want to wait and go through this whole process again..
on a side note, the cables can break but in this case it's not that. the door handle cable to the latch on my driver's door snapped shortly after i got the car.
on a side note, the cables can break but in this case it's not that. the door handle cable to the latch on my driver's door snapped shortly after i got the car.
02-11-2014, 08:50 AM
#138
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Which part is the assembly and how do you replace it? The door handle cable is perfectly fine, the only reason it is off the handle is because I removed it thinking that was one of the steps mentioned previously. I just need to get ahold of some needle nose to put it back in.
02-11-2014, 05:36 PM
#139
The link attached will show you the actuator.
There are three screws where the machanism meets the striker. Before you remove those, unplug the wires that connects to the actuator and remove the rods that connects to the outside door handle. You do not need to remove the handle, only the rod. Once you've removed the machanism out from the door, you could easily take out and open the plastic box by removing the only two screws that secures it.
Front Door Latch and Lock Actuator Removal/Installation
You'll see the broken spring as soon as you open it. Home Depot should have the similar length and size spring with hooks on each ends. Here's a picture that 9krpmrx8 took during his ordeal.
Front Door Latch and Lock Actuator Removal/Installation
You'll see the broken spring as soon as you open it. Home Depot should have the similar length and size spring with hooks on each ends. Here's a picture that 9krpmrx8 took during his ordeal.
02-12-2014, 12:42 PM
#140
Rotary Evolution
the whole latch assembly in the center of the door that holds the door closed. mine got jammed up once but it was due to a lock rod that was out of place after i fixed the cable that snapped in my last post which kept the door from being able to unlock.
i haven't seen a spring break yet but apparently it happens from time to time, but it's not a really common failure. when it does happen though, the same results of this thread happen with a door you can't open.
i haven't seen a spring break yet but apparently it happens from time to time, but it's not a really common failure. when it does happen though, the same results of this thread happen with a door you can't open.
Last edited by Karack; 02-12-2014 at 12:46 PM.
03-25-2014, 10:09 AM
#141
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The issue is the spring is broke. I agree with everyone else. I don't agree with cutting or breaking the black box around the spring. Once I got it all out of the car I noticed that all you need to do is unhook the door handle linkage from the black box and then lift the lever that the door handle linkage was on past what the point of what the door handle makes it travel. This releases the locking mechanism so you can open the door up. I repeat - you don't have to break the black box. Good Luck.
Window Problem.
05-30-2014, 12:18 PM
#145
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This makes me want to change my whole assembly out even though its not broke yet.
I just did my passenger side door actuator much easier then this sounds like.
I just did my passenger side door actuator much easier then this sounds like.
06-04-2014, 12:28 AM
#146
New Member
Does anyone still need some help with this issue? My car did it the second time to me this weekend. Havent locked since first occurance. So now I have had my door panel off with the door shut twice. Easier the second time. The problem with mine was the the latch return spring being broken.
Putting it back together I documented steps needed to do repair. In the end it cost me a couple hours of time fighting it and $1 for a new spring.
Putting it back together I documented steps needed to do repair. In the end it cost me a couple hours of time fighting it and $1 for a new spring.
06-24-2014, 11:33 PM
#147
New Member
07-06-2014, 06:57 PM
#148
This is a ridiculous problem to have and judging by the frequency it occurs, it seems that Mazda should handle this repair for free. I have owned over 20 cars of various makes and models and I have never ever had a car that you couldn't get into because of a broken $1 spring or faulty door assembly. This is just poor engineering to the highest degree. Yes, I am frustrated, because I have spent the last two days trying to get the door open all to no avail. Removed the door panel with ease, can see the black box, pulled on the rods... nothing. Pulled on the wires/cables... nothing. Now I am getting ready to spend the next week crawling through the passenger side of my car like it is a peice of crap hoopty. I came short of kicking the door open from inside. Taking a break now. If any body on here lives in South Florida and can help me with this, I would really appreciate it.
07-06-2014, 07:18 PM
#149
You are in the right spot. Pulling the rods doesn't just do the trick. You have to cut open the soft-black plastic cover. You will see both black and white plastic pieces that works your door lock actuator. You need to push(or pull, I cannot remember, it's been three years) that black plastic tab and pull on the lower rod closest to the front of the car; or pull the door handle outside.
Hope you don't kick the door open out of frustration. That door will just push you back and might cause you to break your leg or deploy your side-curtain air bags. I was crawling in the cabin from the passenger side for almost four weeks. There is another member who experienced this and did that for more almost a year!
Hope you don't kick the door open out of frustration. That door will just push you back and might cause you to break your leg or deploy your side-curtain air bags. I was crawling in the cabin from the passenger side for almost four weeks. There is another member who experienced this and did that for more almost a year!