Couple of questions (Pettit Tank and Rad Swap)
02-18-2017, 07:27 PM
#1
Couple of questions (Pettit Tank and Rad Swap)
So I've done some reading and I couldn't quit find the answers I was looking for. So as soon as the weather breaks I am going to pull my 8 out of storage and make a few upgrades. However, I do not want to make any boneheaded mistakes because I thought I knew everything. So here the questions are:
1. I'm going to be swapping the radiator, coolant tank, fans, and hoses out for better aftermarket products. So obviously, I'm going to be flushing the coolant and putting new stuff in. I was planning on just putting in the OEM fluid, because it seems that there isn't much/if any benefit to running the big name stuff. If that's changed, what's the "good" stuff?
2. I know this may sound dumb, but maybe there is something I haven't thought about. Would you put all the new stuff on, then flush? Or flush everything out first, then put all the shinny stuff on?
3. I bought the Pettit Racing coolant tank (spec A) and have a few questions about that in itself. What exactly do they mean by a "closed system"? It's my understanding that basically any car made in the last 60 years has a closed (pressurized) system. So therefore, they could only be referencing to the overflow setup (power steering connector lubrication system). It appears that the nipple that would be for overflow in the stock setup, has been turned 180* on the aluminum tank. It also seems that this nipple is supposed to be connected to this recovery resivoir theyre talking about. This is where I get confused. What the heck does this thing really do? What benefit is there? Is this connection and tank under pressure with the system? Does it have to be mounted higher than the radiator cap on the tank? I'm just not 100% sure on what is so much different with this setup than oem
1. I'm going to be swapping the radiator, coolant tank, fans, and hoses out for better aftermarket products. So obviously, I'm going to be flushing the coolant and putting new stuff in. I was planning on just putting in the OEM fluid, because it seems that there isn't much/if any benefit to running the big name stuff. If that's changed, what's the "good" stuff?
2. I know this may sound dumb, but maybe there is something I haven't thought about. Would you put all the new stuff on, then flush? Or flush everything out first, then put all the shinny stuff on?
3. I bought the Pettit Racing coolant tank (spec A) and have a few questions about that in itself. What exactly do they mean by a "closed system"? It's my understanding that basically any car made in the last 60 years has a closed (pressurized) system. So therefore, they could only be referencing to the overflow setup (power steering connector lubrication system). It appears that the nipple that would be for overflow in the stock setup, has been turned 180* on the aluminum tank. It also seems that this nipple is supposed to be connected to this recovery resivoir theyre talking about. This is where I get confused. What the heck does this thing really do? What benefit is there? Is this connection and tank under pressure with the system? Does it have to be mounted higher than the radiator cap on the tank? I'm just not 100% sure on what is so much different with this setup than oem
02-19-2017, 02:43 PM
#2
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
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FL22 is going to perform as well as any other water/glycol-based coolant. If you want to go crazy, you can switch to something like Evans NPG but I doubt it's worth the added cost.
If you just add FL22 back in, just drain the system, swap the parts, pressure test and (if it holds pressure) refill.
If you go with something like Evans, you should flush with their prep fluid after a successful pressure test.
If you just add FL22 back in, just drain the system, swap the parts, pressure test and (if it holds pressure) refill.
If you go with something like Evans, you should flush with their prep fluid after a successful pressure test.
02-23-2017, 02:48 PM
#4
40th anniversary Edition
Call Pettit Racing Phone (561) 844-2258 and talk to Cam. He can explain it fully , in more detail . In this configuration the aluminum tank works as an Air Separator Tank (AST), reducing entrained air in the system. Do you absolutely need this, maybe not, But I have used Pettit stuff on my street and track cars over the years and their products work for me. I trust what they make like I trust what Charles of BHR makes, and what Mazmart sells. I have had good results with their products on my rotary cars.
If nothing else you get rid of the risk of failure of that plastic bottle and its sensor, and get a real sensor that will only light up when you truly have a low coolant situation .
I installed their full AST (spec A) system at same time I replaced my radiator with a Hyper V-Core Koyo radiator, and replaced the hoses with a Racing Beat set of silicone radiator hoses. Flush everything before new installation, which you want to be as clean as possible. FL22 is the best coolant for our engines, don't recommend you use anything else.
If nothing else you get rid of the risk of failure of that plastic bottle and its sensor, and get a real sensor that will only light up when you truly have a low coolant situation .
I installed their full AST (spec A) system at same time I replaced my radiator with a Hyper V-Core Koyo radiator, and replaced the hoses with a Racing Beat set of silicone radiator hoses. Flush everything before new installation, which you want to be as clean as possible. FL22 is the best coolant for our engines, don't recommend you use anything else.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-23-2017 at 02:58 PM.
02-23-2017, 03:38 PM
#6
Yeah I'll post pics of the setup in a couple minutes. I did end up calling them and this is what I pulled from the convo ( don't remember who exactly I spoke with)
1. The alum coolant tank is the same from all three of their versions.
2. The alum coolant tank is a direct swap for stock (duh)
3. The alum coolant tank does NOT have a sensor in it.
4. This is where the tanks themselves differ between the models (only in operation)
• Spec C is exact swap and method of use
•Spec B and A requires the alum tank to be completely topped off when cold.
5. The recovery reservoir is NEVER under pressure
6. The recovery reservoir does not have any special relation to alum coolant tank in terms of height or distance
7. The recovery reservoir, when system is cold, should be a little less than half full of coolant.
Basically, on a stock setup, there is always air in the system, just at the top of the coolant tank. Pettit is saying that with this system (Spec A) all the air in the sealed section of the coolant system will get evacuated into the reservoir and then out the vented cap. When the coolant gets hot and expands, it then fills up the reservoir a little more, meanwhile the coolant tank is always 100% full with fluid. When the fluid cools off, it is then drawn back into the alum coolant tank. The level sensor is in the plastic recovery reservoir.
With all that said, I don't see it being much of an upgrade over just the spec C version (stock)
1. The alum coolant tank is the same from all three of their versions.
2. The alum coolant tank is a direct swap for stock (duh)
3. The alum coolant tank does NOT have a sensor in it.
4. This is where the tanks themselves differ between the models (only in operation)
• Spec C is exact swap and method of use
•Spec B and A requires the alum tank to be completely topped off when cold.
5. The recovery reservoir is NEVER under pressure
6. The recovery reservoir does not have any special relation to alum coolant tank in terms of height or distance
7. The recovery reservoir, when system is cold, should be a little less than half full of coolant.
Basically, on a stock setup, there is always air in the system, just at the top of the coolant tank. Pettit is saying that with this system (Spec A) all the air in the sealed section of the coolant system will get evacuated into the reservoir and then out the vented cap. When the coolant gets hot and expands, it then fills up the reservoir a little more, meanwhile the coolant tank is always 100% full with fluid. When the fluid cools off, it is then drawn back into the alum coolant tank. The level sensor is in the plastic recovery reservoir.
With all that said, I don't see it being much of an upgrade over just the spec C version (stock)
02-23-2017, 03:54 PM
#8
Very good quality. But my understand is that the recovery reservoir is fed from the same nipple design as the stocks overflow nipple. Meaning, the second pressure is built, the rad cap seals off that nipple....?
02-23-2017, 04:47 PM
#11
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Oh that plastic bottle is part of it? I thought it was a SOHN reservoir. Oh yeah I can't see why that would be needed. I have a custom res and i just set up the fittings the same way as OEM and I have never had an issue. I also run Evans water less coolant so no pressure.
02-23-2017, 04:51 PM
#12
Hahaha yes it is part of it. Yes it does look identical to my SOHN container.
That's where it hooks up to, which if I put on the rad cap, plug the T stat nips, and lightly blow on the rad nipple, you can hear air come out of the overflow nipple. As soon as you put any kind of force into it, the rad cap seals of the nipple. So I just don't get it.....
That's where it hooks up to, which if I put on the rad cap, plug the T stat nips, and lightly blow on the rad nipple, you can hear air come out of the overflow nipple. As soon as you put any kind of force into it, the rad cap seals of the nipple. So I just don't get it.....
02-23-2017, 07:35 PM
#15
40th anniversary Edition
No plastic nipple fittings to break off at the radiator hose is an advantage with this and the Koyo radiator setup. . No the AST system is not absolutely necessary, but I like the physics behind it (former physics major in school, before switching to journalism). It is not unlike a system from Racing Beat that I used many many years ago on a modified track car they helped build for me. And the isolation of the sensor, out of the reservoir tank, into a recovery tank ,should give the level sensor a better life expectancy.
Many folks have their own systems to accomplish similar goals, especially in turbo applications, such was the case in my Racing Beat car .
Many folks have their own systems to accomplish similar goals, especially in turbo applications, such was the case in my Racing Beat car .
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-23-2017 at 07:49 PM.
02-23-2017, 07:47 PM
#16
40th anniversary Edition
tgaffner, what radiator are you selecting to use and what hoses ? I have the fan relay switch set installed for a lower temp switch on, and the remedy water pump installed to help reduce cavitation at sustained high rpm. That is less necessary if you don't ever intend to track the car.
If you have decided you don't need the kit, return it or sell it. Better to understand what you are buying and if you need it, before purchase. Best to you.
If you have decided you don't need the kit, return it or sell it. Better to understand what you are buying and if you need it, before purchase. Best to you.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-23-2017 at 07:56 PM.
02-23-2017, 08:41 PM
#17
I have a Ron Davis radiator, FAL fans, and hps hoses. I do not track the car so I don't have the need for the Remedy water pump and I think the thermostat is an absolute waste. I agree about the knowledge before order thing and I did try to see a thread about this version of AST but didn't have the results I would have liked. I am in no way trying to badmouth this product, I myself just don't see the need I guess. So I was trying to see what others opinions on it were. The aluminum tank is badass and I'll use that no matter what haha
02-23-2017, 10:20 PM
#19
40th anniversary Edition
The Ron Davis is a top choice, just somewhat overpriced I think, but a very good quality radiator. I came close to buying one, but talked with some knowledgeable RX8 owners who have great results with the latest Hyper V-core Koyo which is also a beaut and quality built. So far it is working great and my temps are where I want them to be.
Keep us informed as you complete your upgrades. Cheers !
Keep us informed as you complete your upgrades. Cheers !
02-26-2017, 06:46 PM
#20
So basically I've come to the decision that I have it (plastic tank) so I may as well use it. I've also decided to run Evans coolant for the fact that it is basically pressureless. Figured that IF I ever were to get a coolant leak, it'll trip the sensor in the plastic tank before I'm ever actually low. I guess the extra air escape feature of the tank, although very minimal IMO, is just a bonus. Come spring time when I start wrenching I'll post my new cooling setup on here and let you guys know how it all works.