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I have an manual 04 with about 59,800 miles on it.. I have no warranty..
Its been acting really weird for the past month.. My car drives fine like nothing is wrong in the morning and night time.. But once 1-5 o'clock come around we have major problems. Its the hottest part of the day, temp range frm 101-115 what my car reads.. I can drive for about 10 mins till I hear a noise like a rattle near my engine (im guessing) and once I come to a stop it just dies out.. I have to sit for about 30 mins or so.. Then I go to start it, it cranks and cranks then it will start.. Sometimes it takes longer.. My car isn't over heating, battery is fine, new plugs, wires, water pump and coils.. One other thing I notice is every time I come to a stop and go I can hear something like a marble in a can type of noise under my car or behind it.. I will be taking it in on Monday but I just want to have an idea.. Could it be my cat? If so is, is this cover by any warranty?
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Prolly not the cat, it would start fine with a bad cat, but no power.
First thing I would do is change gas stations, buy some premium from a name-brand pump. Your hot day problem sounds like a vapor lock caused by crappy gas, and the detonation you are hearing is dangerous - get some good fuel in there and get back to us.....
S
__________________ S
“You give a man a fish - you feed him for one day,
You whack him - you don't got any more of this 'gimme a fish' bullshit!" - Tony Soprano
Prolly not the cat, it would start fine with a bad cat, but no power.
First thing I would do is change gas stations, buy some premium from a name-brand pump. Your hot day problem sounds like a vapor lock caused by crappy gas, and the detonation you are hearing is dangerous - get some good fuel in there and get back to us.....
S
I will try this but I always put good fuel from different pleases like shell etc.. What about the marble in the can noise I always hear? Does that come from bad gas too?
It might be a a failing fuel pump as well...simply because you said it runs fine in the morning and at night. The fuel pump may be over heating during the afternoon because of the temp...
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FOR SALE:'04 TiGray MT parts car
Current ride: 2010 Celestial Blue MS3, Corksport SRI/TIP
The engine might actually be getting very hot - you would not notice this as the temp guage does not move till quite a high temp anyway . I'm picking this is in slow speed stop start traffic ?
Suggest you try putting about 6-7oz of two stroke oil in with the gas next time you fill up - this may improve your compression when hot . If it works you may have a compression loss issue ......
It might be a a failing fuel pump as well...simply because you said it runs fine in the morning and at night. The fuel pump may be over heating during the afternoon because of the temp...
The check engine light comes on and off sometimes.. And I got it scanned I forgot the code but it was for idle to low.. Nothing to do with the fuel pump but I will get that looked at as well.. Thanks..
BTW whats the detonation?
The only real way to check the fuel pump is to replace it. You won't throw a code for it. Detonation occurs when excessive heat and pressure in the combustion chamber cause the air/fuel mixture to auto ignite prematurely.
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FOR SALE:'04 TiGray MT parts car
Current ride: 2010 Celestial Blue MS3, Corksport SRI/TIP
second Brettus on low engine compression being a likely cause, sorry to say that engine stalling under high heat conditions due to a bad engine is a definite issue on the early RX-8s, the noise could be internal mechanical damage
you say there is no warranty? Is this due to being a salvage or something? Mazda extended the engine warranty due to problems on the early models, so unless there's something unusual causing you not to be under warranty if the engine compression is under spec it should be covered.
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I would start with coils, etc. But your symptoms are just like mine and I had low compression which is why my baby is getting its third engine. Texas heat is a ****!!! What part of Texas are you in?
The '04-'05 models were prone to low compression due to inadequate OMP volumes so a compression test is probably the FIRST thing that should be tested.
__________________ Please do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
If you are still stalling after replacing all those components then likely (like 99.9% sure because its exactly the symptoms my last two motors had) its low compression and you should have the dealer look at it.
We will be having a mod day here in San Antonio once my car is back from North Park so if you want we can take a look at it then. Just check the Gulf Forum for updates.
Since you've replaced electrical components it would seem to be compression related. Stick with 91 or better octane to preclude pre-detonation and in the short term you could try pre-mixing some 2 -cycle oil in the gas, typically 4 oz. per tankful (Idemitsu or similar) to aide the apex seals.
Keep in mind that we do have a 8 yr/100k warranty on the drivetrain so if worse comes to worst you're covered for a Mazda rebuilt engine.
Mazda extended the engine warranty due to problems on the early models, so unless there's something unusual causing you not to be under warranty if the engine compression is under spec it should be covered.
If you didn't see this OP, the engine warranty is good for 100,000 miles or 8 years, your engine should still be covered.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RawrX8
But jamming about how its a "Time Attack" and yet no picture of it actually attacking anything but a crowd of teenagers outside a movie theater.
Throw 2-4 ounces of 2 cycle oil in the tank and see what happens. If it start running good, your apex seals are going from the recall issues and you need to get the engine replaced.
Throw 2-4 ounces of 2 cycle oil in the tank and see what happens. If it start running good, your apex seals are going from the recall issues and you need to get the engine replaced.
Make it 6-10 ounces per tank and loose the cat...and then drive the hell out of it.
__________________
FOR SALE:'04 TiGray MT parts car
Current ride: 2010 Celestial Blue MS3, Corksport SRI/TIP
Cleaning the MAF sensor, cleaning the e-shaft sensor, and resetting the e-shaft profile may be in order, as well.
My apologies if these have already been discussed.
__________________ Please do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
I gave up! I took it into the shop on Monday wit Sean at Northpark Mazda.. Still no word.. I want to say it's the engine but I had an marble in a can noise all the time coming frm the back.. Thanks for letting me know about the warrenty, I was wondering how I was going to pay for a new engine.. Thanks for all the help.. I will let yall know whats wrong wit in when I find out.. BTW how long does it stay in the shop for a new engine?
Yeah NP has had my car for a week and they still have not gotten the engine yet. I went this morning and there were two others currently getting motors in the shop and several others in the service lot.
Damn you TX weather for punishing our car in the summer time!!!!
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