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Just thought people would like to know that i recently had my 2004 RX8 (12/2003 build) engine compression tested as I'm close to running off the bumper to bumper warranty. My compression test came back 110-120psi in both chambers, which is optimum compression as I understand. Most of the engine replacements appear to come from my vintage, so it was refreshing to see my engine test well.
I've never really had any "engine" Issues other than a rough idle which was likely more the mounts than the engine. I have run royal purple 5W-30 in the car since about 3,000 mi. I also have premixed when on the track but not usually when daily driving. The car is my daily driver so it sees alot of stop and go traffic, although I do punch the engine a fair amount as well for fun. Houston is also not exactly a cool environment (summers in the high 90's low 100's), but we do have humidity, unlike Las Vegas.
given the oiling system issues that have contributed to the problem, I can say if it was my getting on the engine, the Royal Purple, or the likely combination that have helped protect my engine.
Anyways just thought I'd post a "my engine is running great thread" to counter some of the negative press of late.
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2004 Red Mazda RX8
Base Model - Build Date 12/03
Scan Guage II, RP Highflow Cat, Royal Purple Tranny/Diff Fluids, Mazdaspeed Suspension Package, Racing Beat Intake, Racing Beat Spark Plug Wires, Optima Redtop 35R, Dunlop Direzza Z101 225/45/18
Even though I'm a 2005, it's nice to hear some good news with that kinda mileage. Your humidity in Houston is similiar to mine in Florida(East Coast), so that's good news!
Still running 5w20, but will probably go to 5w30 here on next oil change. Think I'll stay Dino though. Don't turn this into another oil thread guys, just commenting on his use of syn.
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05 TiGray, 6MT...GT.
Mods..........too many to list, so.......View my garage
Just to add a counter to this - A proper compression check will be for each chamber of each rotor, yielding 6 numbers.
Since this check is in PSI and without a relevant RPM number, we don't know how the check was run and using what equipment.
A motor with a single blown apex seal could actually return numbers this high (with a lot of ifs, but it is possible) if an accumulative compression test was done with a mechanical gauge.
Good to see. Without exception all of the Atlanta/Southeast bunch that I am familiar with (more than a dozen) that regularly excercise their 8's have not had a single serious occurance of engine trouble. The ones maintained by my shop are on Valvoline 5/20. Seems that good maintanence and plenty of hard excercise pays off.
Just to add a counter to this - A proper compression check will be for each chamber of each rotor, yielding 6 numbers.
Since this check is in PSI and without a relevant RPM number, we don't know how the check was run and using what equipment.
A motor with a single blown apex seal could actually return numbers this high (with a lot of ifs, but it is possible) if an accumulative compression test was done with a mechanical gauge.
True but it would run like ****. I'll test mine with the digital for comparison next oil chg. Regardless, the dudes car makes him happy so leave him alone.
Just to add a counter to this - A proper compression check will be for each chamber of each rotor, yielding 6 numbers.
Since this check is in PSI and without a relevant RPM number, we don't know how the check was run and using what equipment.
A motor with a single blown apex seal could actually return numbers this high (with a lot of ifs, but it is possible) if an accumulative compression test was done with a mechanical gauge.
Very true........good point......I had forgotten about that, but at least to what was tested or reported it looked good.........and he's not running poorly. So at least some bright news.
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05 TiGray, 6MT...GT.
Mods..........too many to list, so.......View my garage
I had a compression test done this past Thurs. Brillo can you post yours in a simillar format? I have 98,000 miles in my motor and the lower RPM I think was do to having a original starter. While on the low end of ok it does show things are not that bad with my nearly 100,000 mile motor (5/2003 build).
I had my dealer do my test. I don't have a print out, the device they had at the dealer couldn't produce a print out so all I got were certified #'s from the service manager.
In hindsight, MM is correct, its best to have reading for both chambers. Next time I feel the need to test, I may try another shop that I think has an old school compression tester. I had my car at the dealer getting my steering issue resolved so it was more convenient to do it while they had it.
I also should point out i get pretty good mileage as well compared to most, about 16/17 city and 23/24 hwy on average.
It wouldn't be a thread with out MM picking on me
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2004 Red Mazda RX8
Base Model - Build Date 12/03
Scan Guage II, RP Highflow Cat, Royal Purple Tranny/Diff Fluids, Mazdaspeed Suspension Package, Racing Beat Intake, Racing Beat Spark Plug Wires, Optima Redtop 35R, Dunlop Direzza Z101 225/45/18
the dealer has the proper tool to give you the proper nubers- he cant report them any otehr way? wtf is he smoking?
his wds(whatever the correct letters are for the new one they are using) reports the numbers for each chamber and the largest difference between chambers for each rotor and the largest difference between rotor 1 and 2. thats what the test reports. how did he test it?
Good to see. Without exception all of the Atlanta/Southeast bunch that I am familiar with (more than a dozen) that regularly excercise their 8's have not had a single serious occurance of engine trouble. The ones maintained by my shop are on Valvoline 5/20. Seems that good maintanence and plenty of hard excercise pays off.
the dealer has the proper tool to give you the proper nubers- he cant report them any otehr way? wtf is he smoking?
his wds(whatever the correct letters are for the new one they are using) reports the numbers for each chamber and the largest difference between chambers for each rotor and the largest difference between rotor 1 and 2. thats what the test reports. how did he test it?
Rotary compression test can't be done on MDS. Digital, tape/graph, or WDS have to be dusted off.
the dealer has the proper tool to give you the proper nubers- he cant report them any otehr way? wtf is he smoking?
his wds(whatever the correct letters are for the new one they are using) reports the numbers for each chamber and the largest difference between chambers for each rotor and the largest difference between rotor 1 and 2. thats what the test reports. how did he test it?
You know what I know. Its a new Retail Rev Store, so I don't know what equipment he had. I found out sorta after the did the test that they couldn't print out the screen, I was a little miffed, so I made them certify the numbers and add them to work order summary. I'm sure they have what ever digital device they use when testing cars that fail the recall procedure. I've got a good relationship with these guys and they have always given me good service and the benifit of the doubt, so I highly doubt they would lie to me about my numbers.
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2004 Red Mazda RX8
Base Model - Build Date 12/03
Scan Guage II, RP Highflow Cat, Royal Purple Tranny/Diff Fluids, Mazdaspeed Suspension Package, Racing Beat Intake, Racing Beat Spark Plug Wires, Optima Redtop 35R, Dunlop Direzza Z101 225/45/18
The process for the recall doesn't even list a compression check as part of the test.
All they are supposed to do (besides all of the usual crap about the WDS/eMDCS, checking for stickers, etc) is drive the car twice for 20 minutes - once after running the OMP on full for 5 minutes - and look for a serious drop in idle (or stalling) or a serious loss of power. Then they run a vacuum test with a special rig comprised of a MAP sensor and an interface to the BARO sensor that they just check for output voltage. They don't even tell the techs what a "normal" voltage should be for that test. They make them call the tech line.
What I found interesting about that test is the complete lack of smoke from the car while the OMP is on full at idle! That should tell you something about how little oil the seals are getting by design!
I don't know if the question has been asked before...but, damn Maniac, how the hell are you always getting these great shots for your avitars? Do you produce adult videos or something?
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04 Black on Black GT w/ Nav. RacingBeat Springs, Sways, Endlinks. RB Cold Air Duct, K&N filter. Black RB Screens. RP Supercat. AFE Shifter, MB Quartz, JL Audio, 4080 Box, Monster, Viper, full Dynamat. Tint, Stealth bulbs, Clear Corners. Goodyear 245/40/18 F1s.
SOLD
a lot of cool dudes will answer your questions accordingly 
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