DreRX8

I did a search but didn't come up with anything--anybody have a DIY for front brake pad replacement--gonna order EBC Red stuff and try and replace my front pads this weekend.

Go48

Don't know if there is a DIY on that, but it's a very simple operation. I have attached the shop manual diagram that should get you started. Basically, you would remove the bolt (#1), rotate the caliper (#2) up and remove items #3-5. Install the pads, existing shims and clips ("guide plate") in the reverse order. Doesn't hurt to put a little "anti-rattle" compound between the shims and the back of the pads as shown. (Go easy with this stuff and don't get any on the front of the pads.) The compound is not critical, but it's not a bad idea if you think that brake squeal might be a problem.

Why not do a DIY yourself while you're at it? Good luck.

DreRX8

Appreciate that--once I do it I'll post a DIY.

expo1

Need to bleed them after or any other precautions with the pedal?

Go48

Not unless you somehow get air into the lines.

Only thing to keep in mind is that if you have added brake fluid to the reservoir as the original pads have worn, make sure you watch the reservoir as you install the new pads. You may find that the fluid level will overflow the reservoir as the new pads force the caliper pistons back to their original positions. You may have to remove some of the fluid from the reservoir or at least wrap a rag around the top of the reservoir, with the cap removed obviously, to catch any overflow.

If you have never added any fluid to the reservoir, overflow is not a consideration.

Go48

Sure. Glad to help.

DreRX8

What size socket do I need for that bolt?

Go48

If you're asking me, I don't have any idea. Trial and error is the standard approach.

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

since its a mazda, that bolt should either be a 12, 14, or 17 mm. basic sizes you need for majority of japanese vehicles are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21...

Nubo

Just to add -- brake fluid is a paint stripper, so this is one reason why we don't want it spilling over.

Spin9k

Don't think that is exactly correct, or quite that simple on the RX-8. The pads won't push the pistons back, you must do that first, otherwise you'll not get the calipers back in place with the new pads. AND if you try to push the pistons in the rear in you can't - will need a special tool that grabs some indentations in the piston face and then rotates the piston back in, it does not simply push in. This is because of how the parking brake actuates the rear pistons by rotating with the cable. And once you've rotated the piston, there is a metal tab on the pad that must fit into its respective cavity on the piston, so you need to line up the piston to match that tab. otherwise you have a pad that is canted against the piston. It's all explained pretty well in the shop manual, but be careful and use the correct tools.

Go48

Picky, picky, picky. I will give you that my explanation of how the pistons are moved back into the calipers was not particularly precise. The main point I was trying to make was that when the pistons are returned to their original positions within the caliper, brake fluid is forced back through the lines into the reservoir and could cause an overflow of the fluid, especially if fluid had been topped off at any point. I can't imagine anyone thinking that the pads had the inherent ability to move the pistons back into the calipers by themselves.

I do appreciate the clarification on the rear brakes, as it may prove useful to someone in the future. I didn't know of the special procedure. BTW, his original post indicated he was only replacing the front pads.

ShowandDriftRX8

check out the thread I just posted about painting our brake calipers in the DIY or just go to the link in my signature. There is a detailed how to section on my website.

DreRX8

OK--how do I get the piston back enough to fit the pad?--Never mind--gonna use a C-clamp. Since this was my first time doing it--its taking me a little while--gonna go finish it up.

ShowandDriftRX8

I was gonna say use a C clamp but it looks like you figured it out .

DreRX8

Ok--its done--it took like 15mins to do--one last question though--do I need to use those metal plates (#4 in the shop diagram) that were on the old pad on aftermarket pads?

Go48

Yep, everything you removed needs to be re-installed with the new pads.

DreRX8

Thanks--I hear a slight noise but it is sporadic--I'll give em a little while to set to see if the noise goes away--but as compared to the Mazda pads--these EBCs are nice--NO BRAKE DUST!! Usually I would have a fresh coat after every drive.

Go48

Did you use what Mazda calls "Antirattle brake grease" between the back of the pads and the "shim"? If not, you probably should have. That stuff is known by different names and it is available at any auto parts stores. It is intended to dampen, reduce or eliminate minor vibrations that are inherent in the functioning of these components.

So if the "slight noise" doesn't go away, you may want to use some of this stuff as indicated in the shop manual diagram.

DreRX8

Yeah--I used some--but I didn't put the shims on the external brake pads--so if the sound doesn't go away then I'll put those on--I think they just need time to set and warm up--its been a little chilly and wet around here the past couple of days. So we'll see this weekend.