Bleeding the heater core?
06-11-2005, 08:39 AM
#1
Rotary Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bleeding the heater core?
Anybody tried bleeding the heater core? A few pointers in how to do it are appreciated (hopefully I don't need to remove the dashboard).
More of a nuisance than a necessity probably (car is fine, no overheating in 1 year, the noise was always there, just now I quieted all the other noises and this is the last one). Mine has some air trapped inside, I can hear a slushing noise when starting the car. Thanks in advance.
More of a nuisance than a necessity probably (car is fine, no overheating in 1 year, the noise was always there, just now I quieted all the other noises and this is the last one). Mine has some air trapped inside, I can hear a slushing noise when starting the car. Thanks in advance.
06-11-2005, 07:50 PM
#2
Hubble has been saved!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-12-2005, 09:16 PM
#4
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I had a car once that had a big problem with trapped air and would need bleeding occasionally because the air pocket seemed to live near the thermostat and you'd start to get increasingly divergent temperature swings....
Anyway, as long as the system is hot (i.e. thermostat is open and interior heat on), you should be able to bleed from any point in the system. If my understanding is correct, it should be just like bleeding brakes, in that once the fluid is under pressure, any bubbles will find their way to the point where a rapid pressure release is occurring. In that old car of mine it was easy because there was a small fitting on the side of the pipe leading to the filler cap. It had come plugged from the factory, but a small piece of rubber hose and a petcock valve made short work of bleeding and gave good control over the amount of pressure being released (that is - kept me from horribly scalding myself). It seemed like the fitting was actually designed for the task, or maybe it was a connection for some other variant of the car. Not sure, never had the "official" workshop manual for that vehicle.
I'd urge great caution in any attempt at bleeding a pressurized system. Trying to finesse a hose clamp to get the job done is reaally dangerous. Installing some type of t-fitting in the system that allows some type of petcock, and another hose to carry the hot fluid safely into a container might be one way to replicate what I used to do on my old econobox.
Anyway, as long as the system is hot (i.e. thermostat is open and interior heat on), you should be able to bleed from any point in the system. If my understanding is correct, it should be just like bleeding brakes, in that once the fluid is under pressure, any bubbles will find their way to the point where a rapid pressure release is occurring. In that old car of mine it was easy because there was a small fitting on the side of the pipe leading to the filler cap. It had come plugged from the factory, but a small piece of rubber hose and a petcock valve made short work of bleeding and gave good control over the amount of pressure being released (that is - kept me from horribly scalding myself). It seemed like the fitting was actually designed for the task, or maybe it was a connection for some other variant of the car. Not sure, never had the "official" workshop manual for that vehicle.
I'd urge great caution in any attempt at bleeding a pressurized system. Trying to finesse a hose clamp to get the job done is reaally dangerous. Installing some type of t-fitting in the system that allows some type of petcock, and another hose to carry the hot fluid safely into a container might be one way to replicate what I used to do on my old econobox.
06-13-2005, 12:15 AM
#5
Mazda Tech Tip :D
COOLING SYSTEM AIR BLEEDING
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
After performing repairs or any time cooling system coolant is drained, the cooling system must be purged of air. Use the following procedure below to remove air from cooling system:
1. Safely elevate front of vehicle on hoist. Elevating the front end only, at a steep angle will allow air trapped in system to escape easily.
2. Temporarily remove a coolant hose to the throttle body.
3. Fill coolant system with proper mix ratio of coolant / water per work shop manual.
4. Start engine N carefully monitor coolant level, topping off as necessary.
5. When coolant begins to flow from throttle body hose, air is bled from system.
6. Carefully attach coolant hose back to throttle body pipe. **Caution, coolant may be extremly hot!
7. Verify proper coolant level N add as necessary.
8. Check system for leaks.
9. Verify repair.
COOLING SYSTEM AIR BLEEDING
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
After performing repairs or any time cooling system coolant is drained, the cooling system must be purged of air. Use the following procedure below to remove air from cooling system:
1. Safely elevate front of vehicle on hoist. Elevating the front end only, at a steep angle will allow air trapped in system to escape easily.
2. Temporarily remove a coolant hose to the throttle body.
3. Fill coolant system with proper mix ratio of coolant / water per work shop manual.
4. Start engine N carefully monitor coolant level, topping off as necessary.
5. When coolant begins to flow from throttle body hose, air is bled from system.
6. Carefully attach coolant hose back to throttle body pipe. **Caution, coolant may be extremly hot!
7. Verify proper coolant level N add as necessary.
8. Check system for leaks.
9. Verify repair.
11-06-2016, 07:14 PM
#6
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
I had a most hilarious time changing my coolant on the 2010 GT (Series II) and wanted to add additional notes to the discussions: (1) order the exact crush washer BEFORE YOU DO THE DIY COOLANT CHANGE needed to replace the stock CW if you drain your engine block (see link below and Note C) (2) be quick on starting up the engine with the reservoir at F and cap off - you'll need to fill it several times over 2 minutes as the engine warms else you'll have even more air in the lines. (3) get the air out and the heat back by bleeding the coolant lines by step A or B below
A. bleed the highest point once warmed fully by carefully removing the coolant line from the throttle body - see above
B. rev the engine carefully whilst continuing to fill the reservoir to F. then cap the reservoir and rev to 2500 rpm for min 3 - max 5 minutes then rev to 3000 for 5-10 sec. repeat until heat magically reappears.
C. If you do not replace the malformed one use crush washer you will find you have a very slow drip that will not go away until you're out of coolant or you buy a new crush washer.
A. bleed the highest point once warmed fully by carefully removing the coolant line from the throttle body - see above
B. rev the engine carefully whilst continuing to fill the reservoir to F. then cap the reservoir and rev to 2500 rpm for min 3 - max 5 minutes then rev to 3000 for 5-10 sec. repeat until heat magically reappears.
C. If you do not replace the malformed one use crush washer you will find you have a very slow drip that will not go away until you're out of coolant or you buy a new crush washer.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
05rx8mazda
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
18
11-28-2015 09:42 AM
