Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Yep, that's 'cause the P-5 is an Odyssey OEM. Can't go wrong.

crossev

I find myself in need of a new battery. My local pep boys is recommending a 540 cold crank Boesch battery for 89.90. They have the Optima Red Top in stock fo 154. Is this a good price or can I get an Optima cheaper online?



Thanks

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

I'm going with an Odyssey 925 MJT. It's "only" 380 CCA, but there are other things to consider. From the specs, it'll deliver plenty of current for 30 seconds and it's never taken more than about 2 seconds for my car to start. If you gotta crank enough to require a monster battery, there's something else wrong with the car. What it does do is take 20-25 lbs right off the nose of the car. Being smaller it also lets me open up some space behind the radiator for better cooling. The stock "box" the battery sits in isn't for better cooling, it's for venting corrosive fumes generated by all wet batteries away from electronics and connectors. The dry cell Odyssey generates no such fumes, plus can't spill acid. Summit Racing sells them for about $175. If you have a mega-sound system, it's might be too small. The red-top in my other car barely made it through this winter and is due for replacement at 42 months, BTW.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925mjt.htm

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

+ 1

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Looks like $160 plus shipping from Summit Racing online for the Red Top and they're typically a good price. So, your Pep Boys is competitive. Autozone was over priced when I checked last summer but might be better now as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ULT-9020-164/

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

With something like a battery, it's always advantageous to be able to not have to deal with shipping in the event of making a warranty claim.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

^ I was just rendering a comparison, not advocating shipping a battery. Heavy/costly and as cited a chore to get warranty replacement.

tadleyhustla

Hi I have been reading all the threads and all signs lead to buying an optima battery. However the 35r is not instock in the UK. I have tried all the online stores and they all say they havent had it in stock for a while.

http://www.optimabatteries.co.uk/ Could some one have a look on this website and tell me which red top exactly i would need. My current battery has problems starting in cold.

Also could you advise me on how dificult it is to fit these batteries.... Are any modifications needed... or do they just slot in. I have an 2004 Model.

Thanks

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

The Optima Red Top comes with a plastic standoff since it isn't as tall as OEM, but otherwise straightforward.

9020-164 Optima RedTop

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ULT-9020-164/

Munchy

iTrader: (2)

What's the difference between the 9020-164 and the 8020-164 that the Optima website suggests?

Nubo

The "OPTIMA® YellowTop R 3,7 " looks to be the proper group35 size, which has the terminals in the correct locations. It should come with a plastic "spacer", which goes under the battery to raise it to the standard height. This is needed for the RX8 due to the positive terminal attachment.

Their "red top 3,7" looks to be the proper size but terminals are reversed. With a bit of work you can fit that battery; you just need to rework the attachment cable -- see the DIY section; there is a whole thread on fitting Optima batteries.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-optima-red-top-75-35-install-mod-33340/

My yellow-top install is on page 3.

If I were you I'd go with the yellow-top, it's the right size and terminals in the right locations. As long as they include the spacer, it's a direct drop-in replacement. It makes a good starting battery.

If your heart is set on the red top, then reworking the cables for the 3,7 isn't too hard. Alternatively, the red-top 4,2 with reversed terminals might fit without modification, though it's 1/2 inch longer. There is a white mark in the battery box which serves as a fitment guide. The end of the battery should not extend past the white mark. This is to provide adequate cooling. Check the measurement.

Munchy

iTrader: (2)

I figured out the part number difference is the box the battery comes in.

But now this whole reversed terminal thing, some people day it fits perfect, then others say the terminals are reversed. Then when you look up 35R it doesn't exist, so why would Optima suggest a battery for the RX-8 that wouldn't actually fit?

Munchy

iTrader: (2)

In the DIY he's using a 75/35 where the terminals are reversed but on pics of the 35, the terminals are the proper way.

im confused

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

YellowTop D35

Redtop 35 8020-164

Get one of the above, it will fit 100% nothing special needed.

kanundra

I got a Sears Platinum (it's a rebranded Odyssey drycell):

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...tive+Batteries

Nubo

I was responding to the poster in the UK, and the website he's trying to order from, and its available models.

Personally, I prefer the Odyssey batteries at this point, especially when you can get the product from a local Sears and well-warranted. My Optima yellow-top lasted 4 years, could probably have made 5. Ok, but hoping for better.

Olorin2

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, I'm resurrecting this older thread because of issues with my Red Top battery that I wanted to bring to light. I purchased it in January 2009 (8020-164 35) and since the beginning of the summer it has been dying on almost a daily basis.

When charged up, the engine starts up quickly. If I let the car sit for more than about 12 hours (less if I haven't driven the car a lot), the battery will be dead, or too drained to start. If I leave the stock radio on for 10 minutes, I won't be able to start the car. This is a 19 month-old battery in a car with no stereo or other electronic mods.

I bought the battery from Amazon, because it was the cheapest place I could find at the time. I did read some reviews about shipping problems (broken batteries because of inadequate packaging), but decided to take my chances. What I didn't see initially though were the multiple bad reviews stating that their red tops were dying in under 20 months. Optima has a 3 year warranty on them, but you cannot get warranty service through Amazon, and Optima won't honor it. Okay, lesson learned - get the battery from the manufacturer next time.

But the question is, why are many of these batteries going bad after such a short time? Even as far back as last winter, when my car sat for only a couple days at time, the battery would be dead. I read that Optima was taken over by another company and quality has suffered. Could this be the problem? I was going to try a yellow top, but then decided against it because I really have no need for a deep cycle battery. I may just go with an Interstate, since I've had good experiences with them in the past. Any similar problems with red tops here?

Nubo

It could be the battery, or it could be your car. In addition to replacing the battery, you should check that the car is adequately charging the battery and that there is no excessive current draw when parked. If something is drawing too much power when parked, that's bad for any battery.

Optima was bought out by Johnson Controls, iirc.

Olorin2

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info. I'm just not sure what could possibly be drawing excessive current in the stock set-up. The battery life has worsened dramatically over the past month - and nothing has changed with the car. Any ideas?

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

+1 for optima or napa gel cell sealed batteries. My 1958 has had one in it for over 5 years, I dont leave the car on a battery tender and it starts right up after months of not being driven.

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problems with the red top I purchased online. It only lasted about a year and trying to get it replaced under warranty proved to be impossible. I switched to the Sears Platinum Diehard and my problems were solved.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Many problems reported with the newer versions of Optima! Sears Platinum = Odyssey, which is engineered by the guy who did the original Optimas (the ones that were good.)

srb7f

FYI, I just bought a brand new battery at Costco for $59.99 when my battery died. You don't get service to install it, but if you're reading this thread you probably don't need it anyway.

Identical battery case, handle, etc. as the one I removed with the only difference being that it had a Kirkland sticker instead of a Mazda sticker (which I assume must be the original from 2004). Hard to beat if this bang for the buck if this one lasts another 7 years...

CChris17rx8

I'm sure u bought a new battery by now but for thoes who are looking get a 124R-65. Mine is a Parts Plus, available at Smyth Automotive in the greater Cincinnati area. It has a 700 CCA capacity, and fits like a glove in the car!

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Guys, what would be the advantage of going from the OEM battery to the optima. Anything worth considering on a new '10 8?