rotorocks

I know old thread, ...was just reading

I am thinking of putting a miniature turbo on it and then finally I am going to have a twin turbo 8 like noone else!

DragonLord3688

I know this is an old post, but what did you do with the hose running from the top (blue) solenoid valve behind the UIM?? did you cap it off?? did you unhook the plug from that solenoid?? Or is the hose that is on part 7 still just sitting there?

JimmyBlack

The quick and dirty way is to cap the vac hose that used to plug into the airpump assembly with a screw/bolt. Not the neatest, but fast and effective - saves you removing the UIM.

You could do a neater job by unplug or possibly remove the solenoid entirely (can't remember how it plumbs into the UIM for it's vacuum feed). Just make sure you don't leave a path for air to be sucked into the UIM once you've finished, as this will throw off your tune. You'll also need to have the ability to reflash your PCM to block the DTC code for the disconnected solenoid. Easy enough for you to take the UIM off (15 minutes) and see what option is best for you.

DragonLord3688

took me two hours to remove the UIM... the bolt below the A/C line and the two bolts on the bottom of the right hand side, that bracket... ended up barely getting the one by the AC back on, not torqued to spec... the other two i left off... no leaks fortunately. I'll just cap the line from the air pump solenoid...

thanks.

JimmyBlack

Hardest part is finding the bolts the first time, and reaching them. A decent socket set with a knuckle joint and at least one extension rod makes the job very quick. You'll do it in 15 minutes next time.

FlashSenpai

My questions is, if you delete the Secondary Air Injection pump, does it still throw the Code for the check engine light? And if so, Is there a flash to delete that programming for the code?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

yes and yes

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Never mind that the very first post of this thread explains it, classic noobster

Ported8

Hey man just a quick question i took out everything you said with the diagram and bough the racing beat block off plate. after installing it My car wont start :o? Know anything i may have done wrong?

The only 2 things loose is the big plug removed from the air pump and the little vacumme hose.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Did you take out parts #11 and #13? Because the car needs both to run.

WankeyYankey

bigbd03

Another disadvantage to doing this mod is time spent under operating temperature. Several studies have referenced the wear rates of motors having about five times more wear until coming up to operating temperature. From what I understand Rx8s are even more prone to engine wear. For any engine, you want your engine to reach operating temperature as soon as possible. I don't find this modification very useful. Just my opinion I don't want to rile anybody up being it is only my second post. I am new to the Rx8 an rotary engines world but not new to Mazda. I have had several Miatas including N/A, turbo, and just sold my LS miata. I just picked up my 2009 RX8 with 40,000 miles because it seats the family unlike Miatas. I intend to have fun with the rotary until I eventually engine swap the RX8 as well. I have been reading lots of threads and I am pleased with a lot of the input and expertise.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

the airpump warms up the cat not the engine. if you dont have a cat (no rotary should) you dont need it and it takes up space and adds weight.

bigbd03

No engine should have a catalytic converter or need one, but it is mandated by the government to control emissions. The RX8 engine just pollutes more emissions causing earlier catalytic converter failure. By federal emission standards the RX8 engine should have a catalytic converter.
I think I have a decent idea of how the air pump works on the RX8. Doesn't the air pump recycle air to exhaust manifold causing combustion of exhaust gases there by introducing more oxygen before reaching operating temperature? That combustion produces in that area. Also removing the catalytic converter and air pump will effect air/fuel mixture, especially before reaching operating temperature, causing a delay in reaching operating temperature as well. Again I don't see the point, especially on factory tune. I was just trying to point out my opinion.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

decat, remove airpump, tune and enjoy. it wont hurt anything and actually help the engine

bigbd03

I couldn't agree more with that statement other than the fact that it is against federal emissions standards. However, this post was about a $0-$10 modification not about the multiple ones you just mentioned.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

i do my best to ignore stupid laws. anyway weather you have a mid pipe or hollowed cat may as well ditch the pump

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

With the availability of the HJS cat converter there’s not any reason not to run one, but technically it’s not EPA legal. Even the ultra-high flow 100 cpi motorsport racing cat I had it was clean smelling. No raw fuel smell at all.

Red line envy

I love the smell of my 8. No cat and pre mix with omp delete. Was going to do this mod next.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

everyone up to a mile behind you doesn't appreciate it, that's for sure.

@Team - EPA approval aside, do those CATs get the O2 levels down a level it'll pass readiness and sniffer tests inspection wise?

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

whats up buddy? who cares about the bold part lol

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I never had a cel with it. I’m not aware of OBD2 cars having to pass a sniffer test. Never had to take one other than my own nose and can’t answer that. Their street version is 200 cpi and should pass it depending on which standard is being used. Most of those are rated Euro 2 - 5 depending on the specific cat.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

re sniffer: California "smog cops" / etc

obnoxious smell -- me if I'm behind your stinky a$$!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Well, it doesn’t have CARB approval or look like OE if there’s an inspection, but if it’s not setting off the CEL then my expectation it’d be far enough in spec to meet a sniffer test. I don’t know what they consider the point where it needs to go for an inspection. Or why they would even check it if they can’t smell anything etc.? I never lived there though, so I have to claim some ignorance. Or maybe I’m just misunderstanding whether you mean sniffing it with their nose vs measuring it with some sort of sensor/equipment. If you mean by nose then you should be fine IME.

Rotary0505

Sorry to bump an old thread. Does anyone have a working video of the failing air pump whine? I think that I might the problem with mine, but I'd something definitive to compare to. Thanks!