Turbo AT revival
10-02-2013, 02:22 PM
#4
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I wouldn't recommend the Goop seals, or any others either, just stick with OEM seals. My buddy just had his rebuilt with goopy seals and resurfaced housings and it won't make compression. So he is likely going to have to rebuild it a gain with new housings and seals. My other buddy used Atkins seals in his and it would never run either and when it pulled it apart he found the bran new Atkins seals were scalloped, he never thought to measure them because they were new. he rebuilt it with OEM seals and it has been great.
My engine was built by Pineapple Racing with all OEM seals except the coolant seals and it has 20k boosted miles on it and is doing well on a 10psi tune.
My engine was built by Pineapple Racing with all OEM seals except the coolant seals and it has 20k boosted miles on it and is doing well on a 10psi tune.
10-05-2013, 09:09 AM
#5
I am so glad i did not try to run my engine much longer and decided to get another rebuild. The first rebuild was so messed up i had no idea. Front pulley bolt was so loose it could be removed by hand. I had a cracked and rusted rear iron and rusted balancer. Also had various other loose bolts and an oil leak from the front cover. Hopefully none of the internals or housings are messed up.
10-05-2013, 12:15 PM
#8
No. The problem is more obvious than you guys can either see or will admit to.
Ceramic seals require new rotor housings. A set of Iannetti seals and two new housings isn't cheap, but they are proven to the Nth degree. I can appreciate that all your buddies like to experiment and learn the hard way, but that isn't cheap either.
Ultimately the addition of a new pair of rotors and side seals machined to accept the taller 13B style apex seal with the above is the way to go for either NA or FI. It's not hard to understand how an engine can cost $10k when done properly by a serious professional.
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Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-05-2013 at 12:25 PM.
10-09-2013, 05:19 PM
#10
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
It must be the seals, no?
No. The problem is more obvious than you guys can either see or will admit to.
Ceramic seals require new rotor housings. A set of Iannetti seals and two new housings isn't cheap, but they are proven to the Nth degree. I can appreciate that all your buddies like to experiment and learn the hard way, but that isn't cheap either.
Ultimately the addition of a new pair of rotors and side seals machined to accept the taller 13B style apex seal with the above is the way to go for either NA or FI. It's not hard to understand how an engine can cost $10k when done properly by a serious professional.
.
No. The problem is more obvious than you guys can either see or will admit to.
Ceramic seals require new rotor housings. A set of Iannetti seals and two new housings isn't cheap, but they are proven to the Nth degree. I can appreciate that all your buddies like to experiment and learn the hard way, but that isn't cheap either.
Ultimately the addition of a new pair of rotors and side seals machined to accept the taller 13B style apex seal with the above is the way to go for either NA or FI. It's not hard to understand how an engine can cost $10k when done properly by a serious professional.
.
Yeah this one was done by a buddy in Austin who has done a few RX-7 builds of his own, he is not really sure why it's not making compression because he took it part rebuilt it again, spec'd everything, etc. and it's still the same
I understand why good rebuilds are expensive, that is why I had mine rebuilt and did not do it myself. So far so good on mine with 20k boosted miles.
But yeah some like to experiment, that is a personal decision we all make from time to time and we have to accept the consequences of those decisions.
My buddy has a 4AT engine in the garage, let me see if the parts you need are good on it.
10-10-2013, 07:51 PM
#13
I've never run them myself and can't say one way or the other, already gave my vote earlier on the brand. I would say that in general your buddies have a long history of not doing so good, whether it's the product or their other decisions/actions isn't always clear
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...height-200561/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...height-200561/
10-22-2013, 10:13 PM
#15
Agree with TeamRX8 there.
Tried a set of ceramics in a almost new pair of housing, about 5,000kms on them.
The housings were also prepped as well, the whole deal.
No comp when firing up.
Had to change to metal seals.
For what its worth, Rohan from Xtreme/Guru Rotaries stated to me ceramics and housings is a real hit and miss.
With all the engines his done that had ceramics, brand *new* housing from Mazda, about only 50% of the housings are optimal, 30-40% can barely scrape past, 10% wont even fire. He states the quality control at mazda really isn't all that great, he has to send alot of those housings back.
Tried a set of ceramics in a almost new pair of housing, about 5,000kms on them.
The housings were also prepped as well, the whole deal.
No comp when firing up.
Had to change to metal seals.
For what its worth, Rohan from Xtreme/Guru Rotaries stated to me ceramics and housings is a real hit and miss.
With all the engines his done that had ceramics, brand *new* housing from Mazda, about only 50% of the housings are optimal, 30-40% can barely scrape past, 10% wont even fire. He states the quality control at mazda really isn't all that great, he has to send alot of those housings back.
10-24-2013, 01:37 AM
#16
I had Esmeril seals installed in the first rebuild but i cannot comment on how they are because of the bad rebuild job. I will have them replaced with Goopy seals though. Would the Esmeril seals be re-sellable? They haven't even really been used except with the engine idling a few times.
I got my new fuel pump today; an Aeromotive stealth pump rated at 340lph. I will also be getting a set of Injector Dynamics ID1000 fuel injectors. I had to order a new rear iron so i'm waiting on that and some new bearings as well. As soon as i get those parts back to the builder he will put my engine back together.
Now i'm debating throwing a pair of 17" wheels on the car for the winter so i can drive it to break the motor in before spring and DGRR 2014.
I got my new fuel pump today; an Aeromotive stealth pump rated at 340lph. I will also be getting a set of Injector Dynamics ID1000 fuel injectors. I had to order a new rear iron so i'm waiting on that and some new bearings as well. As soon as i get those parts back to the builder he will put my engine back together.
Now i'm debating throwing a pair of 17" wheels on the car for the winter so i can drive it to break the motor in before spring and DGRR 2014.
10-28-2013, 07:05 PM
#19
Since its a turbo build, are you looking at maybe RX7 height seals? Dowelling? Balancing?
I would highly recommend RX7 height seals and Balancing. Dowelling is abit more optional.
Who is doing your tuning? Is it a 6 port AT or 4 port? Just had mine tune brettus and there was quite abit of muck around with ID1000s in a 4 port and injector staging. But its all figured out and sorted now.
I would highly recommend RX7 height seals and Balancing. Dowelling is abit more optional.
Who is doing your tuning? Is it a 6 port AT or 4 port? Just had mine tune brettus and there was quite abit of muck around with ID1000s in a 4 port and injector staging. But its all figured out and sorted now.
Last edited by tofu_box; 10-28-2013 at 07:07 PM.
10-28-2013, 08:20 PM
#22
does 190 kms per full tank, with throttle lag justify it?
Dont get me wrong the ecu is prob the best aftermarket piggy back system, but if just doesnt drive like a factory car anymore.
decel it goes bloody rich rather then lean out like factory ecu, and trust me you feel it.
Before anyone bashes me with bad tuner comments.
I flew the creator of adaptronics, Andy down from Brisbane to Melbourne for it, great bloke, great product. But the factory ECU imo retains the OEM feel best hands down.
Look to further clarify the difference
The Adaptronic being a piggy back will loose the OEM feel of the car, slight throttle lag (which can be minimise through tuning), use more petrol.
Benefits are, on the fly tuning, instant changes, easier to monitor, ability to use aftermarket O2 sensor, boost sensor, further fine tuning.
In a nut shell, MAF ecu tuning provides a better overall feel to the car and can work just as well as aftermarket ecu.
After market ecu, is better for more drastic setups where the MAF is no longer able to cope, or if you find yourself unable to log and have a tuner more used to MAP style tuning. Also definately better for track only cars
Dont get me wrong the ecu is prob the best aftermarket piggy back system, but if just doesnt drive like a factory car anymore.
decel it goes bloody rich rather then lean out like factory ecu, and trust me you feel it.
Before anyone bashes me with bad tuner comments.
I flew the creator of adaptronics, Andy down from Brisbane to Melbourne for it, great bloke, great product. But the factory ECU imo retains the OEM feel best hands down.
Look to further clarify the difference
The Adaptronic being a piggy back will loose the OEM feel of the car, slight throttle lag (which can be minimise through tuning), use more petrol.
Benefits are, on the fly tuning, instant changes, easier to monitor, ability to use aftermarket O2 sensor, boost sensor, further fine tuning.
In a nut shell, MAF ecu tuning provides a better overall feel to the car and can work just as well as aftermarket ecu.
After market ecu, is better for more drastic setups where the MAF is no longer able to cope, or if you find yourself unable to log and have a tuner more used to MAP style tuning. Also definately better for track only cars
Last edited by tofu_box; 10-28-2013 at 08:30 PM.
10-30-2013, 11:40 PM
#23
I was going through some of my stuff earlier today. looks like i will have some stuff up for sale soon.
I dropped off some parts with the builder tonight. He's going to be putting my car back together soon. I might not get to drive it in the winter though.
I dropped off some parts with the builder tonight. He's going to be putting my car back together soon. I might not get to drive it in the winter though.