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"good shape" is subjective. But you are knee deep in **** already with this build so why start being detail oriented now.
Always nice to hear someone's honest opinion.
Do I know for certain that a rotor housing is safe to reuse? Nope. Not at all. Did I say I did? Did I say I was a rotary expert? Nope. Not at all. The only thing that I can do is take the advice that other people, more knowledgeable people, give me. Ari Yallon has built enough motors to know the difference, and I trust his judgement.
The motor had 31846 miles on it before it was torn down. Yes, some things wore out and lost compression. But not all of it. I know you aren't suggesting that I just buy a completely new motor?
I'm not saying they cause them to grenade but they sure as hell are not preventing them from grenading. But like I said, there is a lot that goes into an engine rebuild besides seal choice and even the best built engine isn't worth a **** if it isn't tuned right. I have hit 13psi many times, I don't imagine another 2psi would would make a difference but I'm done experimenting so 10 is my limit so I have to back it down when it gets colder to stay there,
Well I can tell you without any shadow of doubt that "another 2psi" does make a difference . Especially on a Greddy setup like yours . And you can say "it's all in the tune" till you are blue in the face but what you don't realise is how close to catastrophe a Renesis is , running at that kind of boost .
The tune is only one part of the equation as is the setup . I have come to learn that unexpected occurances that result in only minor variations to your original tune can be the difference between zoom and boom !
To think otherwise ignores the fact that no-one has yet managed to make 400whp reliable, a realistic target .
Do I know for certain that a rotor housing is safe to reuse? Nope. Not at all. Did I say I did? Did I say I was a rotary expert? Nope. Not at all. The only thing that I can do is take the advice that other people, more knowledgeable people, give me. Ari Yallon has built enough motors to know the difference, and I trust his judgement.
The motor had 31846 miles on it before it was torn down. Yes, some things wore out and lost compression. But not all of it. I know you aren't suggesting that I just buy a completely new motor?
Completely new no, but new housings (especially if you are going to be using ceramics), new eshaft for sure, and rotors and irons if you can afford it in any way. And it should be balanced which I don't think they can do. Is he doing custom cut side seals or precut? Any guarantee on the rebuild?
I will not be using ceramic apex seals. We do plan to send it out for balancing. Not everything that is being done will be done by Ari. He has a network of friends in the rotary industry, and things get moved around as needed. Side housings (irons) will be brand new, as will the rotating assembly and gears.
Should be fine, the more new the better IMO. Is he bumping up the oil pressure at all? Where are you getting your turbo oil feed from? I would also consider getting a new SSV (it was updated with a better actuator) when you install the 6 port LIM and also get the injectors tested and cleaned if you are using used ones. Also a used LIM will have a **** ton of gunk on it and the APV's and such so ask if cleaning all that is included. I have seen a ton of remans get old nasty **** slapped back on a clean keg.
Should be fine, the more new the better IMO. Is he bumping up the oil pressure at all? Where are you getting your turbo oil feed from? I would also consider getting a new SSV (it was updated with a better actuator) when you install the 6 port LIM and also get the injectors tested and cleaned if you are using used ones. Also a used LIM will have a **** ton of gunk on it and the APV's and such so ask if cleaning all that is included. I have seen a ton of remans get old nasty **** slapped back on a clean keg.
Oil pressure will be increased, probably with the racing beat regulator. The injectors that are currently on the car (not the stock 4 port ones) have been sent out for testing. If they come back okay (and if Steve agrees on their sizing), they will be reused. If not, new injectors will be purchased. I had not heard of a new SSV actuator. I saw that Rotary resurrection had a complete LIM for sale. I will look into the SSV. The junkyard reclaimed parts will be given a thorough cleaning, as well as any port matching that can be done. Turbo oil feed, good question. I only saw the motor briefly before it was apart. Some minor changes will be made to the plumbing (the turbo water line was badly kinked, so a larger radius turn will be used).
Edit: found the TSB for the updated SSV, and the updated part numbers. Thanks to 9k for the tip, and Jon316G and ASH8 for their post about replacement.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 10-12-2015 at 09:11 PM.
It is always about mass airflow...boost is just a measurement of the restriction of the airflow basically
Not that I need to tell you that...but just couldn't resist LOL
I'll bite
I'm not agreeing with you 100% here ............... as you know mass airflow at say 5000 is not the same as mass airflow at 8000 .............and how much airflow there is depends on how much boost you apply .
How much boost there is does come back to how restrictive the system as a whole is (as you mentioned) but for the purposes of determining what is a dangerous level and what isn't (between similar setups) boost IS more relevant as a reference point than mass airflow !
Especially considering that MAF relies on a sensor that is notoriously difficult to calibrate accurately.
The Cryo seals my buddy got from Atkins. He made the mistake of not checking them prior to installation and the engine wouldn't idle, pulled it part again and found this. Atkins was shitty about replacing them too even though he has bought a **** ton of stuff from them.
All of these horror stories I hear with aftermarket apex seals... I am running goopy seals, but only 6k miles on it so until the next rebuild I wont know how they handle 10 psi of goodness.
The engine is apart. The chassis has been pushed down the block into a rented storage unit. It pains me to say this, but the six port six speed swap is just not going to happen. The cost of a donor car, the amount of wiring that had to be replaced just made it cost prohibitive.
As such, we are moving forward with the four port rebuild. Ari is still on my case to do a manual swap, but until I can be assured that traction control will work, and it will pass inspection, I am not convinced.
The side housings have been sent off for lapping and refinishing. All of the internal parts are in stock, so we are ready to go on that front. There is some other repair and upgrade work yet to be done, but nothing in comparison to the rebuild.
Its a bummer, I wont lie to you. But whats important is getting the car back on the road. I love my Mazda6, but its too long, too slow, and the steering is anemic
Thank you for the advice. But I took an honest look at my lifestyle, my needs, and my goals. A transmission swap was never part of this project. I got tempted by it, yes, but that doesnt mean its the right fit for me.
I'm playing in the sand on the other side of the world right now, but I'll be back early December or mid jan. I haven't decided yet. I'm leaning toward early dec.
When you mess up and don't have it there, you'll change your routine.
Don't get me wrong I still leave the DSC on, just not T/C, traction is easy enough to control with throttle position. I guess winter driving your whole life helps prepare you more for not having traction too
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-04-2015 at 09:04 AM.
10-12-2015, 04:53 PM
