BHR AT radiator - track day use?
10-13-2008, 05:17 PM
#1
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
BHR AT radiator - track day use?
All my temps are well under control for street use, but on the track I'm still seeing coolant temps in the 230s. I'd like to get that more under control, and it seems like the next step is an upgraded radiator. As you can see by my sig, I've got most of the other cooling mods done already. I tried switching to a 60/40 water to coolant mix and saw no difference from the stock mazda mix of 55/45. I also saw a significant reduction in oil temps with the second oil cooler, but it did not seem to help the coolant temps.
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
10-13-2008, 07:17 PM
#2
laulongfei
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Francisco,CA
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All my temps are well under control for street use, but on the track I'm still seeing coolant temps in the 230s. I'd like to get that more under control, and it seems like the next step is an upgraded radiator. As you can see by my sig, I've got most of the other cooling mods done already. I tried switching to a 60/40 water to coolant mix and saw no difference from the stock mazda mix of 55/45. I also saw a significant reduction in oil temps with the second oil cooler, but it did not seem to help the coolant temps.
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
I took my car to track 5 weeks ago. my temp go out really fast, I notice the performance aren't as good as the first 4 laps.
BTW, MDW what kind of 2nd oil cooler you used, oem? or others?
10-13-2008, 08:00 PM
#4
laulongfei
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Francisco,CA
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-13-2008, 11:05 PM
#6
All my temps are well under control for street use, but on the track I'm still seeing coolant temps in the 230s. I'd like to get that more under control, and it seems like the next step is an upgraded radiator. As you can see by my sig, I've got most of the other cooling mods done already. I tried switching to a 60/40 water to coolant mix and saw no difference from the stock mazda mix of 55/45. I also saw a significant reduction in oil temps with the second oil cooler, but it did not seem to help the coolant temps.
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
What I would like to know is if anyone has used the BHR AT radiator on the track, and if so, have you seen reduced coolant temps?
Thanks in advance!
Do any one know which link can take me to purchase BHR AT radiator, because at http://blackhaloracing.com/. they only list the price, there is no "add to the cart" or "checkout" for me to do the purchase.
I took my car to track 5 weeks ago. my temp go out really fast, I notice the performance aren't as good as the first 4 laps.
BTW, MDW what kind of 2nd oil cooler you used, oem? or others?
I took my car to track 5 weeks ago. my temp go out really fast, I notice the performance aren't as good as the first 4 laps.
BTW, MDW what kind of 2nd oil cooler you used, oem? or others?
10-14-2008, 12:17 PM
#8
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Do you know what the stock thermostat shots for temperature wise?
I do know that with the Mazmart water pump and the cooling fan mod, my temps drop very quickly once I get off the track. I'm back into the 190s by the time i get back to the paddock.
I do know that with the Mazmart water pump and the cooling fan mod, my temps drop very quickly once I get off the track. I'm back into the 190s by the time i get back to the paddock.
10-14-2008, 12:27 PM
#9
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
That is the same time that the cooling fans come on with the Mazmart cooling fan mod.
Did olddragger ever perfect his 180 degree thermostat? I forgot to keep up with that development.
Did olddragger ever perfect his 180 degree thermostat? I forgot to keep up with that development.
10-14-2008, 12:33 PM
#10
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
I have sort of a stupid question. I know when we added my trans temp gauge, we didn't have to add any trans fluid in. We only lost a small amount. We plumbed a "T" into the lines that run between the tranny and the cooler. By adding the bigger capacity cooler, will I need to add more trans fluid? I would assume that I would because of increasing the capacity - I think we didn't lose much fluid because the line where we plumbed in was a higher point in the system.
10-14-2008, 03:27 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mdw asked for my input so here it is;
The BHR A/T rad is, to my knowledge, the ONLY performance rad for the A/T models. Granted, at $650 (shipped) it may seem rather expensive but it also has a MUCH larger tranny fluid cooler section and the core easily cools 700 h.p. engines. Although my manufacturer warranties the rads for materials and workmanship for 2 years BHR extends that to a lifetime warranty and I add a performance warranty, as well. I dare anybody to legitimately overheat one of my rads while using the Renesis engine. If it is shown that the rad is the weak link in an overheating issue I will swap you a rad of your choice and you can return the BHR rad to me. If you have issues/questions my phone is answered by none other than me. I also would ask anyone using the BHR rads to note how much more air flows across the core when your fans kick on and just how quickly the engine cools down once the fans turn on. The perfecrt performance cooling upgrades would include;
1) Cobb AP (you can set the fan-on temp).
2) Mazmart Re-Medy water pump.
3) BHR radiator.
4) 180-degree thermostat.
The BHR A/T rad is, to my knowledge, the ONLY performance rad for the A/T models. Granted, at $650 (shipped) it may seem rather expensive but it also has a MUCH larger tranny fluid cooler section and the core easily cools 700 h.p. engines. Although my manufacturer warranties the rads for materials and workmanship for 2 years BHR extends that to a lifetime warranty and I add a performance warranty, as well. I dare anybody to legitimately overheat one of my rads while using the Renesis engine. If it is shown that the rad is the weak link in an overheating issue I will swap you a rad of your choice and you can return the BHR rad to me. If you have issues/questions my phone is answered by none other than me. I also would ask anyone using the BHR rads to note how much more air flows across the core when your fans kick on and just how quickly the engine cools down once the fans turn on. The perfecrt performance cooling upgrades would include;
1) Cobb AP (you can set the fan-on temp).
2) Mazmart Re-Medy water pump.
3) BHR radiator.
4) 180-degree thermostat.
this guy is the man! this is the way ALL companys should conduct business! just imagine if ray ran mazda.....
10-14-2008, 09:47 PM
#13
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
^^^
Mark, you should have just asked me.
This doesn't address the coolant issue but I have primo info about making the oil cooler cool a little better..
As for Ray asking about overheating and radiator and airflow.. My car will overheat in the upper rpms. BUT everyone TAKE NOTE: the OEM water pump is a big restriction in the cooling system. Cavitation takes place @ 4300 rpm and up.
I have the BHR Rad from the getgo and have all of the before and after temp datalogs to prove it rocks the oem pos.
So if your 8 see frequent track days at least replace the water pump.. When your coolant temp rise so does the EGT's of the Renesis.
Mark, you should have just asked me.
This doesn't address the coolant issue but I have primo info about making the oil cooler cool a little better..
As for Ray asking about overheating and radiator and airflow.. My car will overheat in the upper rpms. BUT everyone TAKE NOTE: the OEM water pump is a big restriction in the cooling system. Cavitation takes place @ 4300 rpm and up.
I have the BHR Rad from the getgo and have all of the before and after temp datalogs to prove it rocks the oem pos.
So if your 8 see frequent track days at least replace the water pump.. When your coolant temp rise so does the EGT's of the Renesis.
10-14-2008, 10:18 PM
#15
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Yeah, got the water pump already. Have done pretty much all the cooling upgrades except a radiator and a thermostat.
I've got my oil temps down to 210 or so on the track with the second oil cooler (they don't get much more than 180 on the street). But it sounds like you have some info on making the oil cooler work better?
I've got my oil temps down to 210 or so on the track with the second oil cooler (they don't get much more than 180 on the street). But it sounds like you have some info on making the oil cooler work better?
10-15-2008, 09:11 AM
#16
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
I know he has the RE pump. I don't, so I still overheat in "sprited drives" over 4500 rpms.
I'm FI'd , mdw1000 isn't. I'm placing more heat into the cooling systems and overloading them quicker. the BHR AT Rad does a great job of dissapating the heat but it can't dissapate the heat if there is nothing to dissapate from, ie. little to no coolant flow to it.
Which is why I made this comment
It wasn't for Mark. It is for the other people here that will read this info so they can make a better, more informed descision about upgrading thier cooling system.
Peace out, Homies!
I'm FI'd , mdw1000 isn't. I'm placing more heat into the cooling systems and overloading them quicker. the BHR AT Rad does a great job of dissapating the heat but it can't dissapate the heat if there is nothing to dissapate from, ie. little to no coolant flow to it.
Which is why I made this comment
As for Ray asking about overheating and radiator and airflow.. My car will overheat in the upper rpms. BUT everyone TAKE NOTE: the OEM water pump is a big restriction in the cooling system. Cavitation takes place @ 4300 rpm and up.
Peace out, Homies!
Last edited by 09Factor; 10-19-2008 at 10:06 PM.
10-19-2008, 09:59 AM
#17
we pettit guys have the cooling under control
please search in the pettit thread--as the 180F thermostat can be done.
Ray's radiator --for the trans cooling alone--would be worth getting.
If you desire coolant temps below or at 200 on the track you will have to go to a small secondary coolant radiator--placed directly in the airflow---see pettit thread again. Pro teams are finding that at 225 and above side plate warping is occurring which greatly reduces the longetivity of the engine Endurance teams on the track now are running at approx 150F!! DOnt ask how!!
olddragger
please search in the pettit thread--as the 180F thermostat can be done.Ray's radiator --for the trans cooling alone--would be worth getting.
If you desire coolant temps below or at 200 on the track you will have to go to a small secondary coolant radiator--placed directly in the airflow---see pettit thread again. Pro teams are finding that at 225 and above side plate warping is occurring which greatly reduces the longetivity of the engine
Endurance teams on the track now are running at approx 150F!! DOnt ask how!!olddragger
10-19-2008, 10:58 AM
#18
ouch?
Didnt mean that Pettit itself had a solution and Gods know you have more experience with the automatic Rx8 than anyone I know. I havent heard anything but good about your radiator --auto or standard shift versions.
It is just on the track--its a different world and NO radiator plus thermostat/waterpump/coolant change on a daily driver car can get the track temps to 200 or below. On the street and spirited driving episodes--yea--yours will do it by testimony from some i have spoken with. Matter of fact its THE ONLY one than can to the best of my knowledge.
I have an idea--will PM ya.
Olddragger
Didnt mean that Pettit itself had a solution and Gods know you have more experience with the automatic Rx8 than anyone I know. I havent heard anything but good about your radiator --auto or standard shift versions.
It is just on the track--its a different world and NO radiator plus thermostat/waterpump/coolant change on a daily driver car can get the track temps to 200 or below. On the street and spirited driving episodes--yea--yours will do it by testimony from some i have spoken with. Matter of fact its THE ONLY one than can to the best of my knowledge.
I have an idea--will PM ya.
Olddragger
10-19-2008, 12:01 PM
#19
I shall be getting the BHR AT radiator soon. I'll be doing track days (NASA/SCCA) and putting it to the test. So we shall see how it performs on the track. I also have the MazMart Waterpump.
This will be a true test in the summer time here when the temps get above 115.
Right now we have 4 months of lovely 80 degrees. Heaven!
This will be a true test in the summer time here when the temps get above 115.
Right now we have 4 months of lovely 80 degrees. Heaven!
10-21-2008, 12:08 PM
#21
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Especially with all my cooling mods, and my soon to be new radiator. Seems a shame to waste all that capability in the winter, especially when there are tracks to be driven in warmer lattitudes.
Changes in lattitudes, changes in attitudes, nothing remains quite the same....
Changes in lattitudes, changes in attitudes, nothing remains quite the same....
10-21-2008, 06:45 PM
#22
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jay_tibo
Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications
22
09-13-2016 08:10 PM
Touge
Canada Forum
0
08-11-2015 10:19 PM
Touge
Canada Forum
0
07-28-2015 09:52 PM
