You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join RX8Club.com today!
Greddy oil pan!!!! wow what a diff! Even if your runnign a basic stock setup .. it helps keep the oil a lil bit cooler and you can use more oil .. i still kept the oil change intervals the same .. but really I could go longer.. the oil pan is semi clean unlike the black goop that resulted before...
ebay ... 300 sh ... other dealers have them for as much as 400
*** note the 300 includes the price of a new gasket
I have a 2nd (mazdaspeed) oil cooler for my AT RX-8 that I got from my Mazda dealer. I would recommend it, heat is a major rotary issue. In fact, I think Mazda lost its mind in taking the 2nd oil cooler out of the ATs and 5 speed Manuals.
Ask a Mazda dealer for price.
The only way I see not going Mazda parts would be if a 3rd party can be proved to have a definitely better or equal and cheaper oil cooler. I would like to see specs on any oil cooler people claim to be better than the Mazda one.
heyarnold69, good point. Anybody else change their oil pan?
Finding different ways to cool down the hot rotary is usually a good idea.
__________________
Odula intake duct, R-Magic Air Filter, R-Magic Exhaust, R-Magic grounding kit, Mazsport cooling fan mod, Mazmart water pump, Greddy oil pan, Re-Amemiya ECU flash, ATF Cooler w/ Red Line AT fluid, Red Line Water Wetter, Greddy catchcan w/ breather, Lucas U.C.Lube+cleaner gas additive/0W30 oil, Mazdaspeed Body kit/Sunroof, Passport G-Timer GT2, ScanGauge2...
I just run the MaZdaspeed oil cooler like you and have no problem with oil temp in the hottest summer track days.
The hottest I have got is 125 degree C.
But I think oil pan, bearing the fact that if it does not decrease the oil pressure, is also a good addition. There are about 6L of oil as it is in teh system with 2 oil cooler.
__________________
TAKA 八仔ブログ(blog) TrAcKie Anonymous *** with Best track results : | Winton: 1:41.8660 | Broadford 1:09.83 | Sandown 1:31.73 | Philip Island GP circuit 1:59.86 |]Haunted Hills (DD ver.) 60.198 | Wakefield Park 1:13.95
That is not good enough... if you were on the track on that day, it will go over the roof.
I think 2 cooler is not enough, whereever you are zero_rotary
__________________
TAKA 八仔ブログ(blog) TrAcKie Anonymous *** with Best track results : | Winton: 1:41.8660 | Broadford 1:09.83 | Sandown 1:31.73 | Philip Island GP circuit 1:59.86 |]Haunted Hills (DD ver.) 60.198 | Wakefield Park 1:13.95
There is a guy in the States (see the parts forum) parting out a six-speed, and since every car on this continent already has two, the second one will likely never sell.....
It still cannot stimulate what it is like on the track.
Anyway, depends where your oil temp gauge sensor is. I have mine under the oil filter. MazdaSpeed put their on the sump plug location. The sump will record the closest position to the actual engine temp (so MazdaSpeed said) although the wire tends to damage when you take it out too many times for oil change.
So I think 120 degree on the oil filter is very high. So I normally change engine oil if oil temp is over 115 or so. If you use synthetic - add 5 degree I think as they are thought to be more heat resistant.
__________________
TAKA 八仔ブログ(blog) TrAcKie Anonymous *** with Best track results : | Winton: 1:41.8660 | Broadford 1:09.83 | Sandown 1:31.73 | Philip Island GP circuit 1:59.86 |]Haunted Hills (DD ver.) 60.198 | Wakefield Park 1:13.95
The coolant temp reached 110 degree at the end. Me very bad , but the oil temp back to 110 degree and coolant temp below 100 after one cooling lap. hehe.
I think I will invest in a radiator next summer.
Your assessment RG?
__________________
TAKA 八仔ブログ(blog) TrAcKie Anonymous *** with Best track results : | Winton: 1:41.8660 | Broadford 1:09.83 | Sandown 1:31.73 | Philip Island GP circuit 1:59.86 |]Haunted Hills (DD ver.) 60.198 | Wakefield Park 1:13.95
I'd try finding ways to get more air in and out of the engine bay more efficiently. If you are going to keep racing you need to do something. The first thing is to optimize what you have. Only after you've reached that level do you upgrade components. I'd work on some ducting that forced all of the air entering the front of the car to go through the radiator/ oil coolers.
FWIW: When done properly, Mazda LeMans race cars of the past typically ran right around 200*F oil and coolant temps as measured before entering the engine.
__________________
"None of us on our own is as dumb as all of us combined."
i only got oil temp 110deg c once while driving very hard on a very hot day...
most of the hard driving reading 100deg c...
normal driving 80-90+deg c...
my sensor is also placed below the oil filter....
according to RG 110 is bad also..hmm...maybe i shud get vented hood ...
There is a guy in the States (see the parts forum) parting out a six-speed, and since every car on this continent already has two, the second one will likely never sell.....
S
Are you sure? My 04 a/t only had one. I added the second.
__________________
Start every day with a smile and get it over with. ~W.C. Fields***black 266 whp AT with red on black interior, supercharged by Pettit, engine management by Cobb AP, engine tuning, rebuild and all mechanical by Black Halo Racing. Too many mods to list here. See my garage http://www.rx8club.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=12315
^mazdaparts.com carries it, but it says it's the japanese version. don't know if there is a difference in parts/components. maybe someone can shed some light on whether it's the same?