The Turblown Turbo System Differences
12-09-2011, 09:23 AM
#1
Boostin'
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The Turblown Turbo System Differences
For those that don't know, a few pictures might help 
1st and foremost is the turbo manifold; Log style vs our tubular merge collected unit. A lot faster spool up, and more power everywhere, especially in the high rpms, even at low boost pressures. Right angle bends like pictured are terrible for flow, we also don't cheat the entrance to the turbo which basically mimics a on-center turbine housing( We've 600rpm difference in spool time from just swapping tan-gentile to an on-center turbine housing).
2nd is the Hardlines, pretty staight forward. You don't have to worry about anything cooking here. Other kits have lines physically touching 1700+ F degree parts. We hardline both the radiator lines, heater core lines, and turbo cooling lines. Even the oil drain return is very close to the turbo manifold. If any of these lines break you're engine will be toast before you realize what is happening.
3rd we use Garrett Intercooler Cores, and Tial Wastegates/Bovs, no knock offs or ebay parts. Garrett cores produce lower air temps, proven fact. The colder the air, the higher your air density. Air density is the key to power. We can also tuck the intercooler farther back if you live in CA or just want to be stealth. We also don't use any 90 degree couplers, all connections are straight connections which if setup correctly won't blow off.
4th we use a flex connection at the end of our downpipe, and no two piece vband connections which always leak. We can also install as many o2 or egt bungs as you like in both the downpipe and turbo manifold.
5th we hand fit everything on a chassis in house, this ensure the best possible fitment. Nothing is made from Jigs alone.
6th Our turbo system works great with any Mass Air flow sensor based ECU like the CObb AP, and its setup draw through just like OEM. We have since changed our intake track and it works flawlessly. We also use a bosch style recirc blow off valve that is necessary for a MAF setup. We also install an o2 bung in the turbo manifold for the necessary quicker response when using the Cobb's o2 feedback system.
7th All the turbos we sell are water cooled, we don't use oil coolant only turbos on rotaries. Garrett says the turbo will last 30% longer with just adding water cooling. From years of experience rebuilding turbos, I completely agree. We can also put on whatever turbo you want, do you want just a quick spooling 300rwhp? Choose a GT3076R, or do you want 550+rwhp? We can do up to a Gt42R frame.
8th We are always pushing the envelope, making each system better than the previous. We are also now able to turbo the S2 cars properly( no check engine lights, everything works like OEM(dash, etc etc)). And once again we hold the known* record for highest RWHP Rx-8s( using the OEM Rotary engine).
Will update with more photos..
1st and foremost is the turbo manifold; Log style vs our tubular merge collected unit. A lot faster spool up, and more power everywhere, especially in the high rpms, even at low boost pressures. Right angle bends like pictured are terrible for flow, we also don't cheat the entrance to the turbo which basically mimics a on-center turbine housing( We've 600rpm difference in spool time from just swapping tan-gentile to an on-center turbine housing).
2nd is the Hardlines, pretty staight forward. You don't have to worry about anything cooking here. Other kits have lines physically touching 1700+ F degree parts. We hardline both the radiator lines, heater core lines, and turbo cooling lines. Even the oil drain return is very close to the turbo manifold. If any of these lines break you're engine will be toast before you realize what is happening.
3rd we use Garrett Intercooler Cores, and Tial Wastegates/Bovs, no knock offs or ebay parts. Garrett cores produce lower air temps, proven fact. The colder the air, the higher your air density. Air density is the key to power. We can also tuck the intercooler farther back if you live in CA or just want to be stealth. We also don't use any 90 degree couplers, all connections are straight connections which if setup correctly won't blow off.
4th we use a flex connection at the end of our downpipe, and no two piece vband connections which always leak. We can also install as many o2 or egt bungs as you like in both the downpipe and turbo manifold.
5th we hand fit everything on a chassis in house, this ensure the best possible fitment. Nothing is made from Jigs alone.
6th Our turbo system works great with any Mass Air flow sensor based ECU like the CObb AP, and its setup draw through just like OEM. We have since changed our intake track and it works flawlessly. We also use a bosch style recirc blow off valve that is necessary for a MAF setup. We also install an o2 bung in the turbo manifold for the necessary quicker response when using the Cobb's o2 feedback system.
7th All the turbos we sell are water cooled, we don't use oil coolant only turbos on rotaries. Garrett says the turbo will last 30% longer with just adding water cooling. From years of experience rebuilding turbos, I completely agree. We can also put on whatever turbo you want, do you want just a quick spooling 300rwhp? Choose a GT3076R, or do you want 550+rwhp? We can do up to a Gt42R frame.
8th We are always pushing the envelope, making each system better than the previous. We are also now able to turbo the S2 cars properly( no check engine lights, everything works like OEM(dash, etc etc)). And once again we hold the known* record for highest RWHP Rx-8s( using the OEM Rotary engine).
Will update with more photos..
12-09-2011, 03:13 PM
#5
"Due to fitment constraints of the RX-8 chassis, this turbo system requires premixing of injected fuel with two stroke oil as well as relocation of the battery. In addition we highly recommend a Cobb AccessPORT ECU upgrade with a custom MazdaManiac calibration. "
is that due to the OMP?
is that due to the OMP?
12-09-2011, 03:19 PM
#6
Boostin'
Thread Starter
"Due to fitment constraints of the RX-8 chassis, this turbo system requires premixing of injected fuel with two stroke oil as well as relocation of the battery. In addition we highly recommend a Cobb AccessPORT ECU upgrade with a custom MazdaManiac calibration. "
is that due to the OMP?
is that due to the OMP?
If you really cannot live with doing premix I can make a turbo manifold to fit, however you will have to purchase a heatshield for the OMP($199 extra).
Turbo might spool a tick slower also as I will have to put more bends into the manifold.
12-12-2011, 12:29 PM
#10
Yes the OMP is just too close to the 1700 degree turbo manifold. If you look at the 2nd photo attached above, the OMP in one of our competitors turbo kits is actually touching the turbo manifold. Great recipe for disaster see as its a $1500+ unit to replace, not to mention it you will probably have to take over half the turbo kit off just to get to it.
If you really cannot live with doing premix I can make a turbo manifold to fit, however you will have to purchase a heatshield for the OMP($199 extra).
Turbo might spool a tick slower also as I will have to put more bends into the manifold.
If you really cannot live with doing premix I can make a turbo manifold to fit, however you will have to purchase a heatshield for the OMP($199 extra).
Turbo might spool a tick slower also as I will have to put more bends into the manifold.
12-12-2011, 12:42 PM
#11
Boostin'
Thread Starter
12-12-2011, 08:07 PM
#13
it seems to me it would make more sense to make a new engine mount that will allow the OMP to stay in place with a shield yet also allow the manifold to fit through there too. There seems to be plenty of room except the OE mount was not built in mind with multiple exhaust tubes passing through there in the forward direction.
When are you going to offer the ultimate mid-mount setup?
When are you going to offer the ultimate mid-mount setup?
12-12-2011, 08:22 PM
#14
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Thats a good point when i had mounted the race roots driver engine mount it opened up a lot of room on the side which i liked so much, but it just wasn't so user friendly for the driver side for what i had going on.
12-12-2011, 09:26 PM
#15
Boostin'
Thread Starter
I do however have 60,000 miles on a single turbo FD engine I built 9 years ago
I have seen lower rwhp turbo Rx-8 engines last 30K+ miles, so I am sure it can be done.
Hows your car running?
12-13-2011, 10:19 PM
#16
Boostin'
Thread Starter
it seems to me it would make more sense to make a new engine mount that will allow the OMP to stay in place with a shield yet also allow the manifold to fit through there too. There seems to be plenty of room except the OE mount was not built in mind with multiple exhaust tubes passing through there in the forward direction.
When are you going to offer the ultimate mid-mount setup?
When are you going to offer the ultimate mid-mount setup?
Another shot of a recently completed turbo system.. Starting another one soon...
12-14-2011, 11:59 AM
#20
Thanks, I still think a mid-mount turbo with v-mount radiator/intercooler is the way to go even if it means notching and reinforcing the chassis rail to fit, but it is probably more custom than most people will want to engage in. Now that I'm working again it is back on the wish list for a future build in the Street Modified race class ...
12-14-2011, 12:57 PM
#21
The other possible mounting position would be about where the stock air pump is located.
12-14-2011, 01:08 PM
#22
well I didn't think anyone was using the air pump much for these installs, and the SM class allows full removal of the emissions equipment
I have some ideas of my own on how to do it effectively, which is more important to me than just making do with a predefined space
I have some ideas of my own on how to do it effectively, which is more important to me than just making do with a predefined space
12-14-2011, 08:24 PM
#23
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Quick question. What's the mid mount you guys are talking about? I know the low mount and top mount but never heard mid.
I like what everyone is doing on rx8 development. I just don't see spending 10k on 300-350 whp and still might not be reliable enough for me. Gotta pay to play of course. Ive been reading and thinking what route to go.
I like what everyone is doing on rx8 development. I just don't see spending 10k on 300-350 whp and still might not be reliable enough for me. Gotta pay to play of course. Ive been reading and thinking what route to go.
12-14-2011, 09:32 PM
#24
Quick question. What's the mid mount you guys are talking about? I know the low mount and top mount but never heard mid.
I like what everyone is doing on rx8 development. I just don't see spending 10k on 300-350 whp and still might not be reliable enough for me. Gotta pay to play of course. Ive been reading and thinking what route to go.
I like what everyone is doing on rx8 development. I just don't see spending 10k on 300-350 whp and still might not be reliable enough for me. Gotta pay to play of course. Ive been reading and thinking what route to go.
Technically you could say :
Top mount - obvious
Low mount - off the manifold
Mid mount - next to the gearbox
Rear Mount - where the rear muffler is .
