skc

Car went into the shop yesterday for the installation and tune. It will be away for around two weeks. With the following mods being carried out:
1 Super charger install
2 After market header- ceramic coated
3 100 cell highflow catalytic converter with resonator 3" inch pipe from SMB
4 lightweight flywheel
5 09 fuel pump upgrade
6 upgraded injectors
7 upgraded ignition coils
8 silicon vaccum lines
9 adjustment to control arm for more negative camber to front wheels (up to -6)
10 Gauge and dash mount gauge pod holder

Other possible upgrades will be fresh air ducts to radiator and air box, larger oil cooler.

The current list of modifications are:
Hymee exhaust
Whiteline sway bars
Tein Monoflex adjustable suspension (10kg front and 8kg rear springs)
Front brake Project U slotted rotors and HC+ pads
Rear brake RDA slotted rotors with Project U pads
Track tyres Bridgestone RE55
Aftermarket front strut brace
Replica Mazda speed front bumper bar
Second oil cooler

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

await with interest - good list .

skc

Keen to see how this turns out as well. The tuner, GT Auto has worked on a couple of FI RX 8"s before. He is well known for his tuning abilities in Brisbane so I believe it is all in good hands.

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

What SC?

Also what injector set up are you going with?

skc

Hymee, unit from Revolvers car with upgraded oiling seal and smaller pulley. With the injectors I am looking at Yellows from series 2 and blues from auto.

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

I thought so but was not 100% sure. It is my plan to run the blues from a four port auto in the P2.

Many of the Petite guys are running the stock injector set up. I really did not see the need to go radical with my injector set up.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a really good build! It will be an awesome car man.

If I may --you may want to rethink the headers? By report from Pettit, a header with heat wrap/ceramic coating may be holding the heat around the rear exhaust port longer than it needs to be. That can cause a potential problem in time. Besides headers ( unless they have a really proper design) dont offer much in the way of performance over the oem manifold.
Good lucj with the build and keep us informed--pics too!
OD

8upbad

iTrader: (3)

Subscribed!

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

My Hymee build thread has a lot of fluff cuz its focus is on the build of the car and not just the SC kit but you should swing buy and do some reading.

What oil are you using in the SC itself? Also how do you fill, check and know the proper amount to fill the SC unit since it is no longer connected to the engine oil supply?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

skc - you will have a nightmare getting the Hymee to idle (off throttle) if you are using a piggyback and not the Protuner or Cobb . I saw in the other thread you still have PT - you will need it !

skc

My oiling system uses engine oil as per the original design. Danny, from RX8+ automotive managed to redesign the system to resolve the oil leak.

skc

I guess the tuning will the the critical part of the exercise. I appreciate all your comments and I will be discussing all options with the tuner.

skc

I am thinking of opening up the area between the intercooler and radiator. This would involve cutting a section of the undertray and then covering it up with a mesh grille.

What are your thoughts, will it aid or hinder the cooling process. I am worried about the lack of air getting to the radiator due to the massive IC.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

That was the first thing i noticed about the kit . I had huge cooling issues when i briefly had a 300 deep IC in place . The Hymee IC is not that wide so will be better than what i had . Probably wont be an issue unless you track it .
Do you have 2 oil coolers ?

skc

The car will be tracked on a regular basis. I have two oil coolers and also looking at changing one to a larger unit to compliment the larger opening in the mazda speed bumper

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

/\ in that case I think you would be better going with an IC similar to what the Greddy kit uses .
550x230x65 is a common size and will do the job nicely .

although mounting that up high will stuff up your pipework ...

skc

mmm, I guess it will now be a process of fitting the existing system, testing and finding solutions that work. The first will be directing more air towards the radiator and if that fails then look at IC placement and size.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

BTW . There has been a lot of discussion about cutting the underpanel . I believe consensus is that it is detrimental to cooling .

skc

My concern was that air will escape and not get to the radiator. Another option is a scoop below the front bumper however my car is lowered so it will not work either.

I will have to try other ducting methods first, test it out then plan from there.

skc

The header is being ceramic coated on the inside and outside. I would assume that this will lead to less heat near he exhaust port as the internal coating will reduce the heat absorption. The design appears to be less restrictive then the OEM so it should some benefit.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Ok inside too. Thats better! But remember --heat has to go somewhere and if it is continuing down the pipe watch your cat--it may not be able to take it? Or can you mount it further down the exhaust pipe? You probably already thought of that.

On cooling--youre a/c condensor will be removed? Thats a BIG help if you do that.
If you are going to track this car a lot you really may want to look at a V mount set up?
There is no way to get proper aitflow through the oem radiator with a big a/a intercooler up front. It just blocks too much airflow.
Do not cut the undertray--that will make matters worse.
Radiators work on a pressure difference between the front and rear. Cutting the undertray will allow the pressure in front of the radiator to escape.
And going with another aftermarket oil cooler is a very smart decision!

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

I actually think the combined two stock oil coolers are enough but the stock thermostat inside of them hinders there operation.

Some day when I have time i want to take apart mine remove and drill out the thermostat units and housings and replace them with a single return style unit for both coolers.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I have had one out and it is not in the way of flow? I jimmed the thermostat open with a spacer and it did not reduce oil temps at all. Each cooler has a thermostat--i wonder why Mazda didnt plump these things in parellal? that would work better. The passenger side oil cooler doesnt get nearly as hot as the drivers side. just like Hoss said--Mazda did not do a good job with the oil cooler plumbing.

skc

Clutch fitted and oil filter relocation in progress

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

IMO a V-Mount setup is the way to go if you have the guts to cut the hood for a custom vent duct outlet, it has been grossly overlooked on the RX8