Brettus

iTrader: (2)

DW200 + Brettspeed fuel pump mod

skc

So DW200 is bullet proof? I have had bad experience with Aeromotive and Walbro so a bit reluctant to go after market.

I like the Brettspeed mod so I will give that a go. Just have to find a way to open the retaining ring. I have applied some silicon spray to see if it helps.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Well .... I have the DW 300 which I now know flows too much for the stock system (same size as your old Aeromotive) .
But Charles says that his customers have more success with the DW pumps and ..... listening to the 300...........it sounds like it will last

As far as the retaining ring goes , you really need the tool for the first time you get it off . But i can get mine off with a hammer and blunt screwdriver now after applying lube to the threads.

skc

I have left it to soak with some WD 40 and I will try with the screwdriver again. It has been removed four times within the last two years so it should be easier to remove. I know the mechanic broke the removal tool trying to remove it the first time with two people applying force.

I have the car booked for Friday at the mechanics if my attempts fail.

skc

Success!! the WD40 worked. I tapped on the tabs with a screwdriver and hammer evenly trying to cover the full circle and eventually it started to move. I did not break or damage any tabs with this method.

Still a bit to do to get to the pump. The filter sock was clean. replaced with stock and now it runs fine and no loud whine.

My first attempt to reinstall was a fail as I did not start with the arrow at the start mark. The fumes was a bit overwhelming. I also applied gasket grease so it should be easier to get to next time when I get the bits for the Brettspeed mod.

skc

Possible fuel pump issue again!!

Yesterday was a warm day and I was stuck in pumper to pumper traffic for 45 minutes as the oil temp got to 90 degrees the idle started playing up so turned the a/c off, however, it did not help.

When I got out of the traffic I noticed that when the car went into boost the car was not pulling properly and showed signs of hesitation. I then drove the car a few hours later after it had cooled down everything was back to normal again. I drove the car again this morning and got a TPS code at start up which I cleared and it drove like normal with lots of power.

I also got a code for the neutral switch recently as well. The wires looked ok although I did have to apply electrical tape to one wire as it got burnt against the cat. The connection for the neutral switch at the gearbox also has a slight oil leak so it may need replacing as well.

So I may have electrical gremlins creeping in.

I am thinking of starting off with a new pump assembly even though it is only 20 000km old. And other suggestions?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

What is the specific problem with the DW300? Does it empty out the pump bucket or something?

I'm planning on using one for the lift pump to my surge tank, just wondering if your issue is related to something on the inside of the gas tank.

skc

I went back to stock and all was well until the car experienced warm conditions yesterday in stop start traffic.

I can now successfully remove and reinstall the fuel pump with ease.

skc

I should also mention that the car was originally tuned to run on Aeromotive pump which pushes more fuel.

Now that I have stock fuel pump perhaps a new tune is required?

logalinipoo

Thats why you need a fuel pres gauge. If the pump swap caused a pres change then it would effect your tune.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I found the fuel pressure spiked when the high speed stage kicked in for about 1300 rpm ...so approx. 3700-5000 is where it went rich . Just check your afrs and you will see if it needs retuning .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It flows so much that it overcomes the siphon assembly and you get a spike in fuel pressure as mentioned above . It also causes the fuel to overheat (according to SKC) in some circumstances.
No idea if there would be issues with a surge tank setup ..... will the pump be running continuosly at high speed in the stock assembly ?

skc

Another variable in the mystery is that the ESS was also covered in oil so I cleaned it last night and it drives and idles a lot better. Took it to full boost after warm up and no issues. Now I need to try this after the car is heat soaked to see if the problem resurfaces.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Fuel pressure isn't an issue it will just be filling an unpressurized tank. It will be in high speed all the time. The heat isn't an issue either since it's not a dead end setup, the two Bosch 044 pressure pumps I have will create more heat than that. I just need the venturi to work. The surge return will dump back in the bucket so it shouldn't empty it out either.

skc

There has been an oil leak around the supercharger area that has had me puzzled for some time. I thinks I have finally figured out that its not the supercharger as it is quite likely the connection to the filler neck that is the culprit.

I have isolated the problem by wrapping the joint with a rag and will check the area this afternoon after some hard driving. If surrounding area is free of oil then I think I have solved the problem.

This will also mean that my supercharger has been leak free for the last 2 years and the fixed that Automotive Plus did has worked.

skc

Ok, oil leak was not from the filler neck. I retightened the connection to the remote oil filter which seemed a tad loose.

I also did oil change and checked the spark plugs today and found the plugs in great condition with a nice tan colour. Shone the torch into the spark plug hole at the rotors also had the same tan colour. Squirted the hole with some contact cleaner and I could see the shiny surface of the rotor.

From this I can conclude that the engine and tune is in great order now that all the boost and vacuum leaks have been sorted.

skc

Good news for Hymee supercharger owners. Danny of Automotive Plus will be installing the hymee kit on his car in the near future.

He will also be addressing the oil leak issues and the bypass issue. Danny is in the throes of finishing his 20B PP NC MX5 build for the World Time Attack competition in Sydney this month. The legendary mazda 767B will also be there.

Updates on his build can be found here: AusRotary.com ? Login

skc

The annoying oil leak still persists so it will stay that way until the eventual rebuild as this is one of the issues that needs resolving. There is a design fault in the lower section of the cover plate due to insufficient bolts to tighten it up properly. Hopefully,Danny will be able to machine a new part to resolve this issue.

I also modified my catch can by adding some tubing and dropping the inlet side into a separate container filled with steel wool. It has drastically reduced the amount of oil entering the LIM.

The next step is to add a filter to the outlet to collect any oil vapours.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah there was a guy here in Georgia who was really talented and had the Hymee in and out a few times addressing leaks and design flaws but eventually he just gave up because the down time was just not allowing him to use the car. If anyone can fix it for once and all it is Danny but for most there are just too many issues to work out I think. My buddy is going to try and knows the risks/problems with the kit but I am not that confident since I was sure the other guy would figure it out.

skc

The kit has been on my car for 4 years now and after resolving the boost and vacuum leaks it runs really well. I even had to apply a sealant around the bypass valve cap as its was one of the sources of vacuum leaks.

It is my daily car now and manage to live with the slight oil leak and I very rarely stall when coming to a stop.

One real happy camper despite the minor issues.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

Thanks 9k......I am always a lurker.

I will have to look at adding securing bolts to the cover plate. if you get any pics post them up please

glad to see you DD it

skc

Fuel economy started to slide slightly and mild surging feel when driving at a set speed. I suspected it to be coil related so I started with coil and plug which made the problem a lot better however, it did not go away completely. Purchased a new set of upgraded plug wires and the problem went away. So I guess the coils where ok after all.

Also water did a water decarb and oil change and all is well now.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

so you are not running the LS2/BHR ignition kit?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I fitted a drain tube to bottom of my catch can and routed it back to the oil fill assembly . Has eliminated all the problems I was having ...............

skc

I did purchase the BHR kit however it would not fit due to the supercharger. Charles offered to swap the leads so I could remote mount.

I then had an offer from a forum member who wanted to buy the kit so I ended up selling it. He had a turbo RX8 and had a lot of issues due to the dwell settings and his mechanic could not sort it out using Protuner.

I am glad I did not install it on my car as I would have suffered the same issues. Charles was adamant that the new coils will be ok on FI cars due to the changes he made. I quizzed him a few times and he said that the supplier had made the necessary changes which turns out to be incorrect.

The person that purchased the coil tried to contact Charles about the issue however, I don't know how that panned out. I believe he eventually purchased a new set of stock coils and his problems went away.