Attallah_Att

Okay , don't blast my skull into pieces , I know this has been discussed many times (or at least I think so) I was on the phone today with Pettit racing asking about their engine builds n was wondering if they would do a custom job for me (ceramic seals etc) my engine is perfectly fine , 22,000 miles on it , perfect working condition and very well maintained , thing is , I was looking into throwing a GT30 on there , yes I know I know lots of work n parts but I'm almost done with my cooling system suspension and a couple of here's n there's , thing is I dont know if I understood him correctly but is it that when you wanna go high boost or big turbo in the renesis duo to its build you gotta lower down its compression and by that you kill it on the low so being a street car that won't work or am I mistaken ?
I mean how much would a stock renesis really take ? And by take I don't mean a rebuild every 6000 miles , assuming you got all that Pettit work done a nice radiator larger oil pan water injection Premixing and all these important stuff on cant you squeeze a reliable daily use 300-350 whp out of a renesis ? (Transmission aside) ??
I had an STI , somewhere around 500 whp but that 180 whp 6 speed is just a different experience , i love my 8 , it was made for corners and country side drives , can't I squeeze any safe power out ???
Gentlemen ... It was an honor joining your form , you may flame me now =P

jl1rx7

iTrader: (2)

Two choices. Buy a mustang or an REW.

Attallah_Att

So your solooution or advice is actually selling the car and getting a different one ?
Hmmm interesting
How about a 20B or LS1 swap , more realistic I'd say

jl1rx7

iTrader: (2)

It all comes down to money. How much do you want to spend. I mean realistic. turbo a reni 10k plus depending on how you go about. REW 12K plus. 20B 20K, LS1 6 to 12k. This moves a bit if you do your own work, buy used, not top shelf stuff etc.

The 8 doesn't have great high end horsepower potential for cheap. You're better off doing the suspension and tires and learning to use what the strength of the the car is. It's handling.

Yes you can make it have more horsepower and some on here have done it. So it all comes down to how much you are willing to spend and do.

Junkman 6394226

I almost ROFL'ed at this, but no offense.

20B swaps are more costly than you could ever realize. Sure the block is only 5,000 or so, but then there's also...
- Rebuild
- Porting (might as well)
- Turbos (rebuild or new ones, stock ones won't support *big* power from what I've read).
- Custom mounting
- Custom cooling
- Standlone ECU (unless you're using stock block and turbos)
- Tuning
- The appropriate transmission to back it up
- Rear end?
- Custom exhaust
- Materials
- Custom intake
- Paying for it all to be done RIGHT. Unless you're awesome and can do it yourself, (probably not. But if so, WHOOP!)

LS swaps run into the same problems, same expenses (except ECU/tuning)

HOWEVER, not all is lost! 300-350WHP can be had reliably (30K+) on 10psi or so, but you will have to read until your eyes bleed - and then learn brail - before you know how to properly support our engine's weaknesses and strengths. Good luck to you.

P.S. Only 22,000 miles? enjoy your warranty for now, young grasshopper

Attallah_Att

I don't wanna go on a swap , at least not yet , but with good suspension and tires a 240 isn't that bad for an N/A rx8 (I know it's not that simple)
I know FI to that power will cost the engine alone would gallop up 5 easily so yeah 10 would be a fair amount to start with
I'm waiting for some parts to arrive n after that I'm gonna do little research on a piggy back , if I can squeeze 240 on wheels ill be happy ... For now

Attallah_Att

Hehe I did read till my eyes bled , n that's why I'm not swapping + I never liked swapping in a daily driven car , as for the 22,000 miles I guess jumping from other cars to the 8 kinda mixed me up , yet I love how it handles , 30k ? Naaaah I'm good loool

Junkman 6394226

Lmao, ok just to clarify. I meant reliable for 30K+ miles, not dollars

Attallah_Att

Hehe got that dont worry , well for now
BHR ignition system
AEM CAI
greddy pulley kit
Racing beat race pipe
Griffin radiator
Axial short shifter
ACT prolite flywheel
ACT organic clutch disc kit
Stop tech brake disk kit
(Discs pads and lines)
Stainless steel clutch hose
Reinforced clutch pedal
And a griffin radiator

I'm sure ill get some noticeable feeling outta these next would be a nice set of coil overs , can't wait till the parts come

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

Pretty clean setup.

Attallah_Att

Thànks , next would be a set of coil overs (most likely cusco) carbonetics 2 way LSD powerfflex racing kit and hopefully before end up selling the car to afford them the gt strut kit and finally a remap , I'm wondering how would that end

jayrerickson

I think anything is possible with money.

I been researching and reading a lot on different builds. Seems to me that it is possible to have a reliable reni. The number one cause for failure is detonation/tuning. The goal is to with stand shock so things don't break. It's impossible not to detonate and have a perfect tune through out the engines life.

If money wasn't an issue this is what I would do.

Port the housing for better coolant flow.
Get cermet coating like the 787B had.
A 3rd spark plug in each housing. This hasn't been tested to much. From what has been tested, it works very well.
Forged aluminum rotors @ 9.1 comp
3mm apex. The material depends on what is best for the cermet. With the cermet, now the housing surface is a lot more durable then the chrome. Now the apex will wear faster. Thinking the atkins seals would work best. It is a durable harden seal. Because of the different expansion rate, tolerances are tighter then OEM.
FD side seals.
FD corner seals
Intake and exhaust porting. Would have to really think about what would be best. To small, you will run into heat issues. To big, you will run into drivability and the side seal catching.
Full balance from the UDP to the FW.

That's about it for the basic "block" to with stand reliability. Of course with this setup you will be running a stand alone system.

No one really knows the out come of it. But if money wasn't an issue, I would try it.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

A turbo Rx8 running a greddy making 260whp ish can be an awesome car to drive if set up properly.
How reliable it is very dependent on how good the install and tune is but if done well such a setup can last many 1000s of happy miles.

You can make 350whp on the stock block but the apex seals are so brittle that they can't take any detonation at those kind of loads . And like someone said - "it's not if that will happen but when " .

Turboing one of these things is a major modification so don't go into it lightly.

Attallah_Att

As tempting as that sounds I'm just gonna research it cause money has a limit here and it is a problem hahaha

Attallah_Att

I guess I'm gonna try to squeeze as much whp out of her while N/A for now , I hope that would be noticeable

bse50

Cyprus is very close to some main greek islands. Turkish bullshit aside cyprus may be considered part of greece actually.
Greece is also home of some of the best european builders, doing a 20b or 13b rew swap for them is easier than it is for most people in the US.

So...
Back to the OP: What's your goal? If you can live with 280\300 rwhp you can just think about going FI on the renesis. The A gt3076 or 3082 will be more than enough and without any retarded lag.

If you want more, go REW or 20b.

In both cases give JDM-R a call, he'll tell you all you need to know... prices included

Attallah_Att

Well 300 whp isn't bad at all especially with the right suspension , I always wanted a GT30 on there that's why I didn't wanna get the Greddy kit since (correct me if I'm wrong) you can't just swap the GT30 on the kit itself , I've seen people "CLAIM" 375 whp on stock Renesis internals now how true is that or how durable isn't something I've found answers to tbh

reddozen

iTrader: (1)

It honestly wont be...
My engine is bridge ported. It may have added 5 HP. These cars typically dyno between 190~210 WHP as a "built" NA. You would be better off placing your dollar bills in the toilet and watching them spin down the drain than to really spend the time with an orthodox NA Renesis build. Unorthodox being more expensive than a turbo, or engine swap.

Attallah_Att

Well ... Ill just work on my suspension n engine breathing (intake exhaust etc) and cooling once it's all done if I do decide to go FI the car would be ready , How come no one mentioned a SC yet ?
I mean Renesis is famous for his GROUND SHATTERING low end torque (sarcasm) so a SC would be something beneficial here , wouldn't it ?
Though I do prefer turbos since you don't need to spool it all the time , throttle control is the key , I've never dealt with a SC so I dunno if u can do the same thing as you would with a turbo though it's still gonna have a belt around that pulley =(
Pettit are developing an electric SC guess we gotta wait to see how that ends up

thunderberk

@Attallah_Att kıbrıslımısın ?

If you want to rebuild or project your car i have friends in north cyprus ?

Attallah_Att

My friend is a rotary specialist he's one of the few best here , he's in Nicosia , His name is Doga I dunno if u know him , but he's kinda busy now working on a LS1 RX7 , thing is , it's not the people as much as its the parts and build , he told me its gonna take a decent amount of money + a long research to get it right but it's done-able (if there's such a word lol) and if you're in north Cyprus you'd know that the petrol here ... Well .... Won't give you that much room to play with if u wanna map it , but the main idea now is the build , I'm thinking of a custom Pettit engine when I wanna go FI , though the guy who builds the engines in Pettit told me over the phone the he's using STOCK Mazda seals and they're working as charm , only thing they do is (I can't remember the term) but they do something to it to make it more flexible on the sides so it won't break

thunderberk

I knew doga too what happened his rew engine ??

If you want to continue renesis engine for FI you must need ported engine, but you need much budget to build with quailty parts. I prefer you swap rew in greece there are many rotary guys jdm-r garage they build many renesis engines and rew swaps, 20b swaps they have many experiences if you know greek their website and projects there.

JDM-R - Japanese-Domestic Market

Attallah_Att

He's working on a LS1 engine for his RX7 , and as for engine swaps it's too early now , my car has 22,000 miles on it so the engine is still new , if I'm going FI it's gonna be on my current engine or another Renesis from Pettit , not cheap , it'll cost around 6000$ (brand new engine) but for now I'm just gonna work on my suspension and ill leave the FI project for next year , I'm already broke from all the parts that I ordered =(
Oh the addiction lol
And I don't speak Greek or Turkish , so I can't really check it but I know their work , these guys are good , real good , too good for my wallet hehe

Attallah_Att

btw , anyone on here has a Pettit Built Renesis ?
these things "SEEM" to be made bullet proof (to a certain limit) , i mean hell , add ceramic seals to that , i think that should withstand the Esmeril Racing kit lets say for 400whp ? good tune of course

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

How are you going to address the side seal springs warping under the extremely high exhaust port heat? Springs are flexible, ceramic is not.