Procharger Build - Blow Through Maf Supercharger system.
05-29-2011, 12:48 PM
#102
It has been a while since my last update. So here we go.
In march I ordered the Cog Tooth pulley setup from DNA and pieces from Procharger directly. After some modifications and problems getting the correct belt, I got the Cog setup running in mid april. The pulley gearing is basically the same as with the 5 rib belt, but it won't slip.
The Crank pulley has 50 Teeth and the Blower pulley has 28 Teeth. The C2 compressor has a max impeller speed of 80000 RPM and MAX CFM of 1100. The internal step up of the C2 is 4.7/1. So to calculate the impeller speed you simply multiply RPM X ( (50/28) X 4.7 ) or RPM X 8.393. At 9000K RPM the impeller speed will spin 75535. If I redline at 9300RPM it reaches 78050. Run it all the way to 9500 and the impeller is spinning 79700 RPM. My point is that at 9000K RPM the compressor is near enough to its max but not so high that unnecessary strain is placed on it which would cause excess heat. I wish Procharger provided a flow chart for their compressors, but they don’t. Anyways, moving on.
Driving experience. My 8PSI and my 12 PSI tunes worked fine with the Cog setup but I noticed at higher boost levels the AFR were getting a little lean for my liking. Boost levels up to 6K RPM were the same as the previous 12 PSI belt setup. Between 6-8K RPM the boost was about .5 PSI higher (or the same PSI 250 RPM sooner) and above 8k RPM the boost was noticeably higher. For example. On the previous 12 PSI belt setup the boost would reach 10PSI at 8K RPM and then might reach 11PSI by 8750 and if I hit redline it would tough 12PSI for a second. I saw 13PSI once but that was with a super tight and brand new belt. With the COG set up, 10PSI by 7800 RPM, 11PSI before 8300 RPM, 12 by 8700 RPM 13 at 9K and if I ran it to 9300 RPM I would see 14 and sometimes 15 PSI.
As mentioned before, the pulley gear ratios were almost identical, so the increased boost levels were all from a lack of belt slippage. Seat of the pants feel was great. Before the car would pull hard but flatten out above 8K RPM and slow as it approached 9K rpms. This was typical of the renises anyways, but now with the Procharger not slipping the power never seemed to drop which made redlining the car ever shift very tempting.
I had a track day fast approaching so in late April I was using MM’s live remote tuning services to dial in the tune. As mentioned the AFR were a little lean for my liking. We resolved some idle and lower RPM issues but no matter what Jeff tried, it was still showing lean as we approached 9000 RPM. We were also maxing out the MAF by 8500-8700 RPM. I had never maxed the maf before. Jeff recommended bigger injectors. I was currently running stock p1 and Sec injectors with modified yellows in the P2 position. I agreed but no time before a 3 day track weekend at Thunderhill (Friday) Buttonwillow (sat/sun) and Laguna Seca the next Monday.
I parked the car after a Data Log run and 2 days latter I started it up again to load it on the trailer. I immediately noticed something was wrong. The car normaly starts right up, but this time it had an extended crank and vacuum was a little low. I ignored it and hoped for the best. Got to Thunderhill, put some insurance in the fuel tank (4 gallons of 100 Octane mixed with 91) and headed out onto the track. Took a warm up lap and then went for it. I couldn’t ignore what I was feeling now. Up to 6500 RPM the car felt pretty good but over 6500 RPM there was a huge misfire, sluggish, fall flat on your face feel. 1st gear not so much, 2nd was bad, 3rd or forth was horrible. I brough the car in, played with the MAF sensor, checked for boost leaks, pulled the plugs, and even tried going back to 91 octane. Everything I checked and tried did nothing and I found nothing except an engine that ran bad and a ECU that showed rich at WOT. Did I mention I was throwing the most awesome flames? With the plugs out for a second time, I borrowed a standard engine compression tester and confirmed what I feared. Compression in the front rotor was 80/80/80 ( a little low but useable) the rear rang up 80/80/50. From what I am told, that’s a side seal and while low compression can still run okay, the 50PSI makes the car run engine run horrible.
So after kicking some tires and throwing my tools in my truck, I loaded up and went home. No Buttonwillow and Laguna Seca had to be driven in a different car.
Present:
I decided to purchase a second motor to install while I have my current motor rebuilt. The details of the build have not been finalized but it’s looking like BHR will do the build with goopy seals. Maybe a few extras on top of the regular BHR stuff.
I purchased and received my second motor, a fully dressed 07 with 18K miles for $2K. I will be stripping the motor down and replacing almost everything from my current motor except for the injectors and LIM.
For the injectors I have ordered the green 420ish CC Primary injectors from Mazda. Part numbers for S2 injectors.
Primary (located in housing) N3R113250
Secondary (located in LIM) N3R213250
The S2 injectors have been reported to have better fuel atomization. Not so important for the Secondary and p2 positions but for the P1’s the S2 injectors were the logical choice. Additional I will be modifying a second set of yellow injectors to run in the Secondary position.
For the LIM I will be sending it to Brian at BDC Motorsports to have it Ceramic coated. See Link http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=14986 While its there he will see I there is any port and polish work that can be done to improve flow. Additionally I will install a heat shield between the Header and the LIM.
While I get around to stripping the motor I have my car at a local fabricator getting a custom aluminum tube crash bar. The point of the custom crash bar is to open up the grill by removing the large stock crash bar and the black plastic piece off the Mazdaspeed bumper. 2.5” of my intercooler currently sits behind the crash bar so this mod will improve air flow throw the intercooler and to the radiator.
Additionally I will be cutting 3” off the bottom of the intercooler and have a large stacked fluidyne oil cooler installed. This will be my second Fluidyne oil cooler. The first is located on the drivers side and they will be plumped in-line. The stock oil coolers had already been removed and in their place I installed Fluidyne oil coolers. The drivers side was used as a single oil cooler and the passenger side was used as a secondary radiator. This resolved my high track Coolant temps but caused my oil temps to get very hot, 265 on the track. Not a problem for the oil but the Renesis doesn’t like it.
Additionaly when the intercooler and new oil cooler are out, I will have them coated with a Heat Disipation coating designed to improve heat transfer and reduce IAT and oil temps. Pus it comes in a dark grey which will give it more of a stealth look and match well to the Metallic Grey Mazdaspeed trim. See link http://www.nicindustries.com/heat_dissipation.php I will probably coat the blower to intercooler pipe with the same coating and the cool air charge pipe to the TB with a ceramic coating to reduce under hood heat soak.
I think that about raps it up. I want to get everything running in the next month so I can do a track day at the end of June. If I miss that deadline, I will need the car ready by July 9-10 for the Dyno tuning/track weekend I am organizing.
My goal is to get 325 RWHP with my used motor and 340 with the BHR rebuild. 300 RWHP was reached with a weak Mazda Reman and a slipping belt so I think 325-340 are very possible.
In march I ordered the Cog Tooth pulley setup from DNA and pieces from Procharger directly. After some modifications and problems getting the correct belt, I got the Cog setup running in mid april. The pulley gearing is basically the same as with the 5 rib belt, but it won't slip.
The Crank pulley has 50 Teeth and the Blower pulley has 28 Teeth. The C2 compressor has a max impeller speed of 80000 RPM and MAX CFM of 1100. The internal step up of the C2 is 4.7/1. So to calculate the impeller speed you simply multiply RPM X ( (50/28) X 4.7 ) or RPM X 8.393. At 9000K RPM the impeller speed will spin 75535. If I redline at 9300RPM it reaches 78050. Run it all the way to 9500 and the impeller is spinning 79700 RPM. My point is that at 9000K RPM the compressor is near enough to its max but not so high that unnecessary strain is placed on it which would cause excess heat. I wish Procharger provided a flow chart for their compressors, but they don’t. Anyways, moving on.
Driving experience. My 8PSI and my 12 PSI tunes worked fine with the Cog setup but I noticed at higher boost levels the AFR were getting a little lean for my liking. Boost levels up to 6K RPM were the same as the previous 12 PSI belt setup. Between 6-8K RPM the boost was about .5 PSI higher (or the same PSI 250 RPM sooner) and above 8k RPM the boost was noticeably higher. For example. On the previous 12 PSI belt setup the boost would reach 10PSI at 8K RPM and then might reach 11PSI by 8750 and if I hit redline it would tough 12PSI for a second. I saw 13PSI once but that was with a super tight and brand new belt. With the COG set up, 10PSI by 7800 RPM, 11PSI before 8300 RPM, 12 by 8700 RPM 13 at 9K and if I ran it to 9300 RPM I would see 14 and sometimes 15 PSI.
As mentioned before, the pulley gear ratios were almost identical, so the increased boost levels were all from a lack of belt slippage. Seat of the pants feel was great. Before the car would pull hard but flatten out above 8K RPM and slow as it approached 9K rpms. This was typical of the renises anyways, but now with the Procharger not slipping the power never seemed to drop which made redlining the car ever shift very tempting.
I had a track day fast approaching so in late April I was using MM’s live remote tuning services to dial in the tune. As mentioned the AFR were a little lean for my liking. We resolved some idle and lower RPM issues but no matter what Jeff tried, it was still showing lean as we approached 9000 RPM. We were also maxing out the MAF by 8500-8700 RPM. I had never maxed the maf before. Jeff recommended bigger injectors. I was currently running stock p1 and Sec injectors with modified yellows in the P2 position. I agreed but no time before a 3 day track weekend at Thunderhill (Friday) Buttonwillow (sat/sun) and Laguna Seca the next Monday.
I parked the car after a Data Log run and 2 days latter I started it up again to load it on the trailer. I immediately noticed something was wrong. The car normaly starts right up, but this time it had an extended crank and vacuum was a little low. I ignored it and hoped for the best. Got to Thunderhill, put some insurance in the fuel tank (4 gallons of 100 Octane mixed with 91) and headed out onto the track. Took a warm up lap and then went for it. I couldn’t ignore what I was feeling now. Up to 6500 RPM the car felt pretty good but over 6500 RPM there was a huge misfire, sluggish, fall flat on your face feel. 1st gear not so much, 2nd was bad, 3rd or forth was horrible. I brough the car in, played with the MAF sensor, checked for boost leaks, pulled the plugs, and even tried going back to 91 octane. Everything I checked and tried did nothing and I found nothing except an engine that ran bad and a ECU that showed rich at WOT. Did I mention I was throwing the most awesome flames? With the plugs out for a second time, I borrowed a standard engine compression tester and confirmed what I feared. Compression in the front rotor was 80/80/80 ( a little low but useable) the rear rang up 80/80/50. From what I am told, that’s a side seal and while low compression can still run okay, the 50PSI makes the car run engine run horrible.
So after kicking some tires and throwing my tools in my truck, I loaded up and went home. No Buttonwillow and Laguna Seca had to be driven in a different car.
Present:
I decided to purchase a second motor to install while I have my current motor rebuilt. The details of the build have not been finalized but it’s looking like BHR will do the build with goopy seals. Maybe a few extras on top of the regular BHR stuff.
I purchased and received my second motor, a fully dressed 07 with 18K miles for $2K. I will be stripping the motor down and replacing almost everything from my current motor except for the injectors and LIM.
For the injectors I have ordered the green 420ish CC Primary injectors from Mazda. Part numbers for S2 injectors.
Primary (located in housing) N3R113250
Secondary (located in LIM) N3R213250
The S2 injectors have been reported to have better fuel atomization. Not so important for the Secondary and p2 positions but for the P1’s the S2 injectors were the logical choice. Additional I will be modifying a second set of yellow injectors to run in the Secondary position.
For the LIM I will be sending it to Brian at BDC Motorsports to have it Ceramic coated. See Link http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=14986 While its there he will see I there is any port and polish work that can be done to improve flow. Additionally I will install a heat shield between the Header and the LIM.
While I get around to stripping the motor I have my car at a local fabricator getting a custom aluminum tube crash bar. The point of the custom crash bar is to open up the grill by removing the large stock crash bar and the black plastic piece off the Mazdaspeed bumper. 2.5” of my intercooler currently sits behind the crash bar so this mod will improve air flow throw the intercooler and to the radiator.
Additionally I will be cutting 3” off the bottom of the intercooler and have a large stacked fluidyne oil cooler installed. This will be my second Fluidyne oil cooler. The first is located on the drivers side and they will be plumped in-line. The stock oil coolers had already been removed and in their place I installed Fluidyne oil coolers. The drivers side was used as a single oil cooler and the passenger side was used as a secondary radiator. This resolved my high track Coolant temps but caused my oil temps to get very hot, 265 on the track. Not a problem for the oil but the Renesis doesn’t like it.
Additionaly when the intercooler and new oil cooler are out, I will have them coated with a Heat Disipation coating designed to improve heat transfer and reduce IAT and oil temps. Pus it comes in a dark grey which will give it more of a stealth look and match well to the Metallic Grey Mazdaspeed trim. See link http://www.nicindustries.com/heat_dissipation.php I will probably coat the blower to intercooler pipe with the same coating and the cool air charge pipe to the TB with a ceramic coating to reduce under hood heat soak.
I think that about raps it up. I want to get everything running in the next month so I can do a track day at the end of June. If I miss that deadline, I will need the car ready by July 9-10 for the Dyno tuning/track weekend I am organizing.
My goal is to get 325 RWHP with my used motor and 340 with the BHR rebuild. 300 RWHP was reached with a weak Mazda Reman and a slipping belt so I think 325-340 are very possible.
06-02-2011, 07:45 PM
#103
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before you go through all that trouble i had the same issue with my procharged rx8
check the ignition coil.
i had the exact same issue and it was driving me nuts for days before i realised i lost a coil.
as for the compression, if it is as bad as you think it is then its obiously a seal.
check the ignition coil.
i had the exact same issue and it was driving me nuts for days before i realised i lost a coil.
as for the compression, if it is as bad as you think it is then its obiously a seal.
06-20-2011, 01:02 PM
#105
Brought over from a differnt thread
Eric I appreciate all you comments and suggestions, seriously I do.
I understand what you run, why you run it and why it works.
But I do not have a race team, or a dedicated race car, so I have limitations. One of those is that I dont want to cut or modify stuff unless I have to. Swaping parts is cool, but cutting up the radiator support to get a big radiator in there is not for me right now. Thats why, if I can increase the effeciency of my intercooler, oil coolers and aluminum BHR radiator then thats what I will do. Obviously unplugging the front end would help with effeciency but the heat dissipation coatings do work, how much, I dont know. I for a fact that Swain coatings has been and still is used in racing applications. Not sure how much the heat dissipation coatings are used but their heat barrier coatings are used a lot. http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?p...39&catid=19694
Short history so you know where I am coming from. Temps were great when NA. I install the BHR radiator and mazmart pump at the same time as I put the supercharger on with the Big FMI. Street temos were no problem. On the track oil was 220ish but the ECT went way up to the point where I was pulling off after 1-2 laps of 9/10ths driving. The recommendation was to go with a secondary radiator. I was trying to keep from pluging up the front end even more, so I figures oil temps with the stock coolers was ok, why not pull them both out and intstall 1 big fluidyne oil cooler on the drivers side and 1 secondary radiator on the passenger side. This fixed my ECT but my oil temps went up, street they were fine. On the track they were 230 after 1 lap, 240 after 2 and so on until they settled in at 265. ECT would slowly creap up on a Hot day but never a big concern. I blew my motor due to more power and not enough fuel. Lost a side seal, probably due to a spring failure from elivated EGT.
Now we are up to date. Engine. I bought a 07 18K mile junk yard moto to swap in and run while I am having a motor built. This will allow me to make sure tunning and cooling systems are good before installing a built motor and address any new issues. It will also give me a chance to see the difference a built motor makes with my procharger setup. ( I took notes on all of your recommend internal mods)
To reduce oil temps I need a second cooler and because I cant get a bigger unit in the drivers side and the passenger side already has a radiator, I am left with 2 options.
1st option- Cut intercooler to make smaller and improve air flow to the radiator there by making it unnecessary and then install a second large oil cooler on the passenger side. Pros to this system. Is that the oil coolers will have there own ducting and I shoudl be able to over cool the oil and therfore help with the coolant temps. Cons- if the coolant temps become a problem, I am left with installing a bigger radiator or installing a secondary radiator in the front. There is one person who runs a secondary radiator laying in front of the condensor flat on the plastic under panel and cut some holes under it. The air passes over the top of the radiator and pulls air and heat from the radiator. This method has almost no effect on the air flow to the radiator. I thought about doing this, but I thought I would try option 2 instead.
Option 2 which is what I am working on: Cut the bottom of the intercooler and mount a large oil cooler directly under the intercooler with a small gap for air to travel through. Pros- I am directly addressing the problem. Oil temps were high, I am installing a large secnd oil cooler. I am more then doubling my oil cooling capacity with this cooler which should help bring down and keep down my ECT's. Cons. The front is still plugged up and my intercooler is smaller which is why I want to coat the intercooler and try and regain some of the lost coolign capacity.
Ducting the intercooler under the car. You mentioned it once before and I am sorry but I can not get my head around Why that would help the radiator. I understand why it would help the intercooler (fast moving air under the car will creates a low air pressure and the air will flow better). However I dont really understand how it will help the radiator. My thought is that if I direct the air from the intercooler to the radiator that it will be more air to the radiator then if I directed in under the car. More air getting to the radiator isnt better? Or is it because the slow moving air post intercooler is disrupting the fast moving fresh air going around the intercooler?
Never heard of anybody using that stuff. I would save your money and buy a huge radiator and big azz oil coolers and support them with custom ducts. The hot ticket is to have individual front ducts for each system: One for water and one for intercooler. Putting an intercooler in front of the radiator is on the same theme of the A/C condensor as Denny refers to above. The NASCAR guys will have center mounted radiator ducts specifically for rad and then a specific oil cooler duct for the oil. They each have their own intake and each their own exhaust.
There are going to be some book reading aero guys that are going to argue with this next comment and theorhetically they are correct but for all practical purposes you'll never see or can measure this next issue: Ducting the intercooler spent air UNDER the car. Yeah, yeah downforce blah, blah. The fact of the matter is these are stupid street cars. Air is already going under there and we don't produce any negative lift to matter anyways. It is more important in these "air cooling/heat discharge" applications to do just that----not worry about downforce. You big turbo guys want that cool air/lack of hot air and ducting from the wide center opening and then down and out the bottom of the car can do this. You'll need to find a local fabricator. I would suggest a roundy-round late model guy who builds cars for this market. They do this jazz alllll the time. Cheap sheet metal. You can also build a much better setup for your water radiator (which I would upgrade big time). We use a dual horizontal pass C&R radiator we had custom designed and the path that the hot water travels across the radiator and then across back to the same side is more than 2x than a typically vertical drop from the top to the bottom. Think about that for a second---exposure of this hot water to air flow from a longer period of time. We can run our car all day in heat in the draft at under 190F. At some tracks we have to tape up the front opening because we are running on the 185F thermostat---too much cooling! Add to this custom larger oil coolers and you have now really cooled the engine. More importantly you have used a better water radiator to allow for the new obstructive---the intercooler, to grab more air. Essentially you make a better, more effective water radiator that is not hampered by a big intercooler and then make a more effective intercooler as well. The oil coolers come into play because they are symbiotic----lowering oil temps helps take water temps with them. Therefore, larger more effective oil coolers help your radiator that now has less frontal air because it has a big nasty intercooler in front of it. Make sense?
Now compare and contrast this to coating stock oil coolers and stock radiators with technology that I've never heard results about. Maybe this stuff is the cats meow---have to look for customers using it. I have yet to see oil cooler manufacturers use it nor radiator manufacturers. Why? Perhaps it doesn't really work. Dunno.
A side note: If your spending all this money on the LIM and coatings and such, I would hope that you've started with a new, fresh, professionally built motor which takes advantage of the various tweaks and such. A rotating balanced assembly is a no brainer. Higher oil pressure regulator is a no brainer. The better oil jets, new or better water pump. New rotor and stat bearings. All new seals. New oil control rings. New oil pump and chain. I would go as far as new oil pump delivery lines to the cad coated oil squirters or replace them too. Brian can do all of this and I have confidence he will do a fantastic job and these upgrades and parts are a one-time deal. He offers great customer service and always seems to call me on the weekend when I'm on the boat with my best girl and bug me....eh, er, wants to talk shop. Great guy. He balances all our stuff and has become a great source for technology talk. He could easily tap your front and rear housings to accept a larger -10 oil lines to run to your new larger oil coolers. He can also doctor those housings with a grinder to get more air in and out of there and make more ponies. Brian and I talk about more of this stuff behind the scenes than we do on line here. I can tell you for certain that the ported stuff he does works period. If I was a turbo guy I would be on this like stink on roadkill. IMO your increased air flow from his porting work will perform exponentially better than trying to get there with heat reduction. I'm sure your already doing this. This post is for your benefit if you don't know this and for the benefit of others to think about.
Sometimes (and probably not you) people will skimp on parts of their car do to budget or in some cases they just don't know. Often these things that use to work just fine are now the weak links in the system. You are already addressing this with your frontal cooling upgrades (and I would NOT put an oil cooler in the middle along with the radiator and intercooler. If your running A/C then your asking for trouble. ****....might as well tape off the entire front end and restrict air flow even more. Use two oil coolers on the sides of the nose---the space is already there and you can easily expel air out the backside of them. Your logic is correct but go find somebody with a lot of experience to allow you to hear alternative approaches to your issue. I beleive you will find that putting all that jazz in the front middle of the car is self defeating. Make sense?
Eric
There are going to be some book reading aero guys that are going to argue with this next comment and theorhetically they are correct but for all practical purposes you'll never see or can measure this next issue: Ducting the intercooler spent air UNDER the car. Yeah, yeah downforce blah, blah. The fact of the matter is these are stupid street cars. Air is already going under there and we don't produce any negative lift to matter anyways. It is more important in these "air cooling/heat discharge" applications to do just that----not worry about downforce. You big turbo guys want that cool air/lack of hot air and ducting from the wide center opening and then down and out the bottom of the car can do this. You'll need to find a local fabricator. I would suggest a roundy-round late model guy who builds cars for this market. They do this jazz alllll the time. Cheap sheet metal. You can also build a much better setup for your water radiator (which I would upgrade big time). We use a dual horizontal pass C&R radiator we had custom designed and the path that the hot water travels across the radiator and then across back to the same side is more than 2x than a typically vertical drop from the top to the bottom. Think about that for a second---exposure of this hot water to air flow from a longer period of time. We can run our car all day in heat in the draft at under 190F. At some tracks we have to tape up the front opening because we are running on the 185F thermostat---too much cooling! Add to this custom larger oil coolers and you have now really cooled the engine. More importantly you have used a better water radiator to allow for the new obstructive---the intercooler, to grab more air. Essentially you make a better, more effective water radiator that is not hampered by a big intercooler and then make a more effective intercooler as well. The oil coolers come into play because they are symbiotic----lowering oil temps helps take water temps with them. Therefore, larger more effective oil coolers help your radiator that now has less frontal air because it has a big nasty intercooler in front of it. Make sense?
Now compare and contrast this to coating stock oil coolers and stock radiators with technology that I've never heard results about. Maybe this stuff is the cats meow---have to look for customers using it. I have yet to see oil cooler manufacturers use it nor radiator manufacturers. Why? Perhaps it doesn't really work. Dunno.
A side note: If your spending all this money on the LIM and coatings and such, I would hope that you've started with a new, fresh, professionally built motor which takes advantage of the various tweaks and such. A rotating balanced assembly is a no brainer. Higher oil pressure regulator is a no brainer. The better oil jets, new or better water pump. New rotor and stat bearings. All new seals. New oil control rings. New oil pump and chain. I would go as far as new oil pump delivery lines to the cad coated oil squirters or replace them too. Brian can do all of this and I have confidence he will do a fantastic job and these upgrades and parts are a one-time deal. He offers great customer service and always seems to call me on the weekend when I'm on the boat with my best girl and bug me....eh, er, wants to talk shop. Great guy. He balances all our stuff and has become a great source for technology talk. He could easily tap your front and rear housings to accept a larger -10 oil lines to run to your new larger oil coolers. He can also doctor those housings with a grinder to get more air in and out of there and make more ponies. Brian and I talk about more of this stuff behind the scenes than we do on line here. I can tell you for certain that the ported stuff he does works period. If I was a turbo guy I would be on this like stink on roadkill. IMO your increased air flow from his porting work will perform exponentially better than trying to get there with heat reduction. I'm sure your already doing this. This post is for your benefit if you don't know this and for the benefit of others to think about.
Sometimes (and probably not you) people will skimp on parts of their car do to budget or in some cases they just don't know. Often these things that use to work just fine are now the weak links in the system. You are already addressing this with your frontal cooling upgrades (and I would NOT put an oil cooler in the middle along with the radiator and intercooler. If your running A/C then your asking for trouble. ****....might as well tape off the entire front end and restrict air flow even more. Use two oil coolers on the sides of the nose---the space is already there and you can easily expel air out the backside of them. Your logic is correct but go find somebody with a lot of experience to allow you to hear alternative approaches to your issue. I beleive you will find that putting all that jazz in the front middle of the car is self defeating. Make sense?
Eric
I understand what you run, why you run it and why it works.
But I do not have a race team, or a dedicated race car, so I have limitations. One of those is that I dont want to cut or modify stuff unless I have to. Swaping parts is cool, but cutting up the radiator support to get a big radiator in there is not for me right now. Thats why, if I can increase the effeciency of my intercooler, oil coolers and aluminum BHR radiator then thats what I will do. Obviously unplugging the front end would help with effeciency but the heat dissipation coatings do work, how much, I dont know. I for a fact that Swain coatings has been and still is used in racing applications. Not sure how much the heat dissipation coatings are used but their heat barrier coatings are used a lot. http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?p...39&catid=19694
Short history so you know where I am coming from. Temps were great when NA. I install the BHR radiator and mazmart pump at the same time as I put the supercharger on with the Big FMI. Street temos were no problem. On the track oil was 220ish but the ECT went way up to the point where I was pulling off after 1-2 laps of 9/10ths driving. The recommendation was to go with a secondary radiator. I was trying to keep from pluging up the front end even more, so I figures oil temps with the stock coolers was ok, why not pull them both out and intstall 1 big fluidyne oil cooler on the drivers side and 1 secondary radiator on the passenger side. This fixed my ECT but my oil temps went up, street they were fine. On the track they were 230 after 1 lap, 240 after 2 and so on until they settled in at 265. ECT would slowly creap up on a Hot day but never a big concern. I blew my motor due to more power and not enough fuel. Lost a side seal, probably due to a spring failure from elivated EGT.
Now we are up to date. Engine. I bought a 07 18K mile junk yard moto to swap in and run while I am having a motor built. This will allow me to make sure tunning and cooling systems are good before installing a built motor and address any new issues. It will also give me a chance to see the difference a built motor makes with my procharger setup. ( I took notes on all of your recommend internal mods)
To reduce oil temps I need a second cooler and because I cant get a bigger unit in the drivers side and the passenger side already has a radiator, I am left with 2 options.
1st option- Cut intercooler to make smaller and improve air flow to the radiator there by making it unnecessary and then install a second large oil cooler on the passenger side. Pros to this system. Is that the oil coolers will have there own ducting and I shoudl be able to over cool the oil and therfore help with the coolant temps. Cons- if the coolant temps become a problem, I am left with installing a bigger radiator or installing a secondary radiator in the front. There is one person who runs a secondary radiator laying in front of the condensor flat on the plastic under panel and cut some holes under it. The air passes over the top of the radiator and pulls air and heat from the radiator. This method has almost no effect on the air flow to the radiator. I thought about doing this, but I thought I would try option 2 instead.
Option 2 which is what I am working on: Cut the bottom of the intercooler and mount a large oil cooler directly under the intercooler with a small gap for air to travel through. Pros- I am directly addressing the problem. Oil temps were high, I am installing a large secnd oil cooler. I am more then doubling my oil cooling capacity with this cooler which should help bring down and keep down my ECT's. Cons. The front is still plugged up and my intercooler is smaller which is why I want to coat the intercooler and try and regain some of the lost coolign capacity.
Ducting the intercooler under the car. You mentioned it once before and I am sorry but I can not get my head around Why that would help the radiator. I understand why it would help the intercooler (fast moving air under the car will creates a low air pressure and the air will flow better). However I dont really understand how it will help the radiator. My thought is that if I direct the air from the intercooler to the radiator that it will be more air to the radiator then if I directed in under the car. More air getting to the radiator isnt better? Or is it because the slow moving air post intercooler is disrupting the fast moving fresh air going around the intercooler?
06-20-2011, 01:44 PM
#106
Ok--this is a street driven and tracking car--right?
you are absoulutely correct to get those oil temps DOWN.
One thing you can do that will really help is to stay away from 9K rpms. No higher than 8.2K. those extra little rpms really heats things up and you dont need it.
Not only is cooler placement important but the type of cooler is also. Some coolers are much more "open" than others and will let airflow through them fairly easily. Others will not.
Eric has mentioned some things to do to help the coolers in the oem oil cooler spots--like removing the fender liner etc.
Buts temps are not your only problem.
With 11-12 psi of boost you are running an effective compression ration of greater than 16:1. Pump gas with a little bit of 100 octane will not cut it.....period. Not on the track.
Even water methanol will not be enough on a road course unless it is installed and controlled with more than 1 dimenstional map and in a very hi tech manner. Too much load and throttle variations.
I know MM would have pulled a good bit of timing in your tune, but even conservative timing will not make up for too low octane.
You need more octane dude-- do some research. You can use toluene or buy race gas--to each his own.
Good luck- do the dilagence on temps/octane and kick ***!
you are absoulutely correct to get those oil temps DOWN.
One thing you can do that will really help is to stay away from 9K rpms. No higher than 8.2K. those extra little rpms really heats things up and you dont need it.
Not only is cooler placement important but the type of cooler is also. Some coolers are much more "open" than others and will let airflow through them fairly easily. Others will not.
Eric has mentioned some things to do to help the coolers in the oem oil cooler spots--like removing the fender liner etc.
Buts temps are not your only problem.
With 11-12 psi of boost you are running an effective compression ration of greater than 16:1. Pump gas with a little bit of 100 octane will not cut it.....period. Not on the track.
Even water methanol will not be enough on a road course unless it is installed and controlled with more than 1 dimenstional map and in a very hi tech manner. Too much load and throttle variations.
I know MM would have pulled a good bit of timing in your tune, but even conservative timing will not make up for too low octane.
You need more octane dude-- do some research. You can use toluene or buy race gas--to each his own.
Good luck- do the dilagence on temps/octane and kick ***!
06-20-2011, 02:13 PM
#107
Ok--this is a street driven and tracking car--right?
you are absoulutely correct to get those oil temps DOWN.
One thing you can do that will really help is to stay away from 9K rpms. No higher than 8.2K. those extra little rpms really heats things up and you dont need it.
Not only is cooler placement important but the type of cooler is also. Some coolers are much more "open" than others and will let airflow through them fairly easily. Others will not.
Eric has mentioned some things to do to help the coolers in the oem oil cooler spots--like removing the fender liner etc.
Buts temps are not your only problem.
With 11-12 psi of boost you are running an effective compression ration of greater than 16:1. Pump gas with a little bit of 100 octane will not cut it.....period. Not on the track.
Even water methanol will not be enough on a road course unless it is installed and controlled with more than 1 dimenstional map and in a very hi tech manner. Too much load and throttle variations.
I know MM would have pulled a good bit of timing in your tune, but even conservative timing will not make up for too low octane.
You need more octane dude-- do some research. You can use toluene or buy race gas--to each his own.
Good luck- do the dilagence on temps/octane and kick ***!
you are absoulutely correct to get those oil temps DOWN.
One thing you can do that will really help is to stay away from 9K rpms. No higher than 8.2K. those extra little rpms really heats things up and you dont need it.
Not only is cooler placement important but the type of cooler is also. Some coolers are much more "open" than others and will let airflow through them fairly easily. Others will not.
Eric has mentioned some things to do to help the coolers in the oem oil cooler spots--like removing the fender liner etc.
Buts temps are not your only problem.
With 11-12 psi of boost you are running an effective compression ration of greater than 16:1. Pump gas with a little bit of 100 octane will not cut it.....period. Not on the track.
Even water methanol will not be enough on a road course unless it is installed and controlled with more than 1 dimenstional map and in a very hi tech manner. Too much load and throttle variations.
I know MM would have pulled a good bit of timing in your tune, but even conservative timing will not make up for too low octane.
You need more octane dude-- do some research. You can use toluene or buy race gas--to each his own.
Good luck- do the dilagence on temps/octane and kick ***!
I am not going the water/meth route. Some others making more power and road racing have gone away from it and had no probems.
I use high performance late model fluidyne oil coolers. These are single pass oval tube coolers with 12AN lines. http://www.fluidyne.com/products_oil...rformance.html
The single cooler was a DB-30416 which has a core size of almost the exact dimensions of the mazdaspeed oil cooler openings.
The second cooler I will install is even bigger. A DB-30816 either a 24 or 26. I think it is a 24 which has the exact same core width as the mazdaspeed grill opening.
I will be sure to seal everything up to maximize air flow and add some ducting where I can.
06-21-2011, 10:52 AM
#108
Those are some nice coolers dude!
where you able to get them ducted? Thats makes a huge difference--at least it did on mine.
What thermostat did you use? Cooler face temp differences between driver/passenger sides?
I seem to remember that the mazdaspeed front clip causes some lift on track which means that some air going under the car could be supplied for more cooling with the install of a front lip?
with a big old a/a intercooler and this much heat--maybe its time for a v mount set up?
About the octane--i have to disagree. richer a/f's and the pulling of timing (within reason) wont allow for pump gas and track driving with long periods of substained boost and high loads. Ask youself this question--who out there running a boosted engine with a high effective compression ratio is running basically pump gas? Your adjusted octane with the additional 4 gallons of 100 oct would be around 94 --right? In Ga pump is rated at 93 and that is not even close enough.
What a/f's and timing are you using. I run 11.1's and it has been suggested that i need to run a 10.9? Thats on 7 lbs of boost.
where you able to get them ducted? Thats makes a huge difference--at least it did on mine.
What thermostat did you use? Cooler face temp differences between driver/passenger sides?
I seem to remember that the mazdaspeed front clip causes some lift on track which means that some air going under the car could be supplied for more cooling with the install of a front lip?
with a big old a/a intercooler and this much heat--maybe its time for a v mount set up?
About the octane--i have to disagree. richer a/f's and the pulling of timing (within reason) wont allow for pump gas and track driving with long periods of substained boost and high loads. Ask youself this question--who out there running a boosted engine with a high effective compression ratio is running basically pump gas? Your adjusted octane with the additional 4 gallons of 100 oct would be around 94 --right? In Ga pump is rated at 93 and that is not even close enough.
What a/f's and timing are you using. I run 11.1's and it has been suggested that i need to run a 10.9? Thats on 7 lbs of boost.
06-21-2011, 11:16 AM
#109
Those are some nice coolers dude!
where you able to get them ducted? Thats makes a huge difference--at least it did on mine.
What thermostat did you use? Cooler face temp differences between driver/passenger sides?
I seem to remember that the mazdaspeed front clip causes some lift on track which means that some air going under the car could be supplied for more cooling with the install of a front lip?
with a big old a/a intercooler and this much heat--maybe its time for a v mount set up?
About the octane--i have to disagree. richer a/f's and the pulling of timing (within reason) wont allow for pump gas and track driving with long periods of substained boost and high loads. Ask youself this question--who out there running a boosted engine with a high effective compression ratio is running basically pump gas? Your adjusted octane with the additional 4 gallons of 100 oct would be around 94 --right? In Ga pump is rated at 93 and that is not even close enough.
What a/f's and timing are you using. I run 11.1's and it has been suggested that i need to run a 10.9? Thats on 7 lbs of boost.
where you able to get them ducted? Thats makes a huge difference--at least it did on mine.
What thermostat did you use? Cooler face temp differences between driver/passenger sides?
I seem to remember that the mazdaspeed front clip causes some lift on track which means that some air going under the car could be supplied for more cooling with the install of a front lip?
with a big old a/a intercooler and this much heat--maybe its time for a v mount set up?
About the octane--i have to disagree. richer a/f's and the pulling of timing (within reason) wont allow for pump gas and track driving with long periods of substained boost and high loads. Ask youself this question--who out there running a boosted engine with a high effective compression ratio is running basically pump gas? Your adjusted octane with the additional 4 gallons of 100 oct would be around 94 --right? In Ga pump is rated at 93 and that is not even close enough.
What a/f's and timing are you using. I run 11.1's and it has been suggested that i need to run a 10.9? Thats on 7 lbs of boost.
I dont have the oil coolers in and operational yet. The drivers side is ducted pretty well and I will do some work with the new center mount one.
For the center mount, I cant decide of I want to duct it toward the radiator or down under the car. Its already at the bottom near the under apenl so that make the most sense. Might due the same with the intercooler, just not sure yet.
A V-mount would be nice and I am going to try and angle the intercooler some, but without new piping and mounts, I cant move it far.
Jeff can comment more on the tunning and octane but what I can say is that he was aiming for mid to high 10's where the engine makes max torque (lol rotary and torque always makes me laugh) and it just wasnt happening due to my lack of big enough injectors.
Jeff runs a boosted renesis with the same targeted AFR and timing and on pump gas. As far as I know he hasnt lost a motor due to octane or AFR yet, or at least in a long time.
Like I said, its tuned for 91 and I get it up to about 94 maybe 95 on a hot day.
A side seal failed in my last motor. It had nothing to due with octane or detonation even though I was mid 11's to high 11's (way lean) I lost the motor because of a side seal. Probably a weak side seal spring from extended high EGT's and oil temps. EGT's were high because of the lean tune (not enough injector)
06-25-2011, 12:17 AM
#110
I Was looking my my single oil cooler today and found out I made a mistake when running the lines. I ran the inlet line into the top fitting and the outlet at the bottom. This significantly reduces the flow and effeciency of the cooler which explaines why my oil temps were so high. So I have a new plan.
Cooling:
I am going to pull the single fluidyne cooler mounted on the drivers side. Send it out for heat dissipation coating and reinstall it with the lines ran correctly. At the same time I am adding some additional foam to maximize air flow.
I already had the bottom 4" cut off my intercooler to add the second oil cooler but now I am not going to install the second oil cooler (yet) and instead i will take advantage of the increased air flow to the radiator. Additionally I purchased some thin, flexible and yet strong plastic I am going to use around the intercooler to duct air to the intercooler and radiator. Intercooler is still going to get Heat Disspation coating and I increased the air flow to the top 4 inches of the intercooler by modifying the stock crash bar.
Update on the crash bar:
My plan was to build an all custom front crash bar with aluminum. The idea was to move the bar higher to allow me to remove the plastic mazdaspeed piece at the top of the grill and improve air flow to the top of the intercooler which was mounted behind the crash bar.
After looking at the bar with my builder and working out the details, we came up with a good plan to meet my goal of less weight, improved airflow to the intercooler and keep the factory saftey feature of the crush cans.
Were going to remove the end caps and horizontal bar by removing the 6 spot wields on each end cap. He will be making new end caps and the horizontal bar with Chromoly plate and round tubing. Probably using .125" plate and 1.5" X .065 tubing. The tubing will be bent slightly to match the shape of the bumper. I will place some roll bar padding on the tubing.
Using the stock crush cans will insure the I still have the factory deisgned 5 MPH crash bar and using the chromoly will ensure strength but still remove weight. The factory crash bar weighs 16LBS. Most of the weight is the horizontal bar. I am guessing the crush cans only weigh 4 pounds or less combined, leaving 12 pounds for the horizontal bar. The 2 foot section of chromoly tubing will weigh 2-3 pounds and the two end plates another 2-3 pounds. So a total weight savings of 6-8 pounds.
Mounts for my splitter struts and a grand am style tow loop will be wielded on.
Cooling:
I am going to pull the single fluidyne cooler mounted on the drivers side. Send it out for heat dissipation coating and reinstall it with the lines ran correctly. At the same time I am adding some additional foam to maximize air flow.
I already had the bottom 4" cut off my intercooler to add the second oil cooler but now I am not going to install the second oil cooler (yet) and instead i will take advantage of the increased air flow to the radiator. Additionally I purchased some thin, flexible and yet strong plastic I am going to use around the intercooler to duct air to the intercooler and radiator. Intercooler is still going to get Heat Disspation coating and I increased the air flow to the top 4 inches of the intercooler by modifying the stock crash bar.
Update on the crash bar:
My plan was to build an all custom front crash bar with aluminum. The idea was to move the bar higher to allow me to remove the plastic mazdaspeed piece at the top of the grill and improve air flow to the top of the intercooler which was mounted behind the crash bar.
After looking at the bar with my builder and working out the details, we came up with a good plan to meet my goal of less weight, improved airflow to the intercooler and keep the factory saftey feature of the crush cans.
Were going to remove the end caps and horizontal bar by removing the 6 spot wields on each end cap. He will be making new end caps and the horizontal bar with Chromoly plate and round tubing. Probably using .125" plate and 1.5" X .065 tubing. The tubing will be bent slightly to match the shape of the bumper. I will place some roll bar padding on the tubing.
Using the stock crush cans will insure the I still have the factory deisgned 5 MPH crash bar and using the chromoly will ensure strength but still remove weight. The factory crash bar weighs 16LBS. Most of the weight is the horizontal bar. I am guessing the crush cans only weigh 4 pounds or less combined, leaving 12 pounds for the horizontal bar. The 2 foot section of chromoly tubing will weigh 2-3 pounds and the two end plates another 2-3 pounds. So a total weight savings of 6-8 pounds.
Mounts for my splitter struts and a grand am style tow loop will be wielded on.
Last edited by Highway8; 06-25-2011 at 12:34 AM.
06-25-2011, 08:03 AM
#112
whines all the way home
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I just cut the bottom portion of the crush bar off, the three sides of the lower box frame I figure were just there to fulfill a height requirement. The middle of the box frame remains, I also cut a triangle section out of the lower corner, if you were to look at the crush bar in side elevation I measured up 2in and over and cut the diagonal, then welded a plate in the hole,,,
06-25-2011, 09:41 AM
#114
I just cut the bottom portion of the crush bar off, the three sides of the lower box frame I figure were just there to fulfill a height requirement. The middle of the box frame remains, I also cut a triangle section out of the lower corner, if you were to look at the crush bar in side elevation I measured up 2in and over and cut the diagonal, then welded a plate in the hole,,,
07-26-2011, 02:57 PM
#117
My new brash bumper, tow hook and splitter strut mounts. Plus you can see my intercooler, oil cooler and secondary radiator set up. The oil cooler and intercooler were coated with a heat dissipation coating called Transfer black from Nic Industries. Applied by West Coast Speciality coatings in Concord Ca. Both done for $250 Total. http://www.nicindustries.com/heat_dissipation.php
I am going to paint the crash bar Red to match the car, but the tow hook Black so it stand out. I have a roll bar protection foam I will place over the bar.
The whole setup compaired to stock removed about 5 pounds and opened up air flow to my intercooler. I still have plastic ducting to add.
I am going to paint the crash bar Red to match the car, but the tow hook Black so it stand out. I have a roll bar protection foam I will place over the bar.
The whole setup compaired to stock removed about 5 pounds and opened up air flow to my intercooler. I still have plastic ducting to add.
07-26-2011, 06:40 PM
#119
I am sure it will be good enough for normal towing, if the car gets barried in something or looses the front wheels it might not be good enough. At that point the whole front end will be damaged and I can tow from the suspension.
08-25-2011, 01:47 PM
#120
Finaly found enough motivation to replace the motor, although I am employeing some experianced paid help. Atleast this way it will go faster and I can learn from someone who has done it before. Next time I will do it myself.
I will get the motor replaced next weekend (early September), just before MM has his next tunning session (Tues september 6th). With the bigger injectors I will need a new base tune.
Aiming to get things togeather and sorted out in time for a some September track days. I would love to attend a track day september 7th, but I think it woud be better to aim for Buttonwillow September 17/18.
After I get all the powertrain issues worked out, I will be moving on to some more suspension and aero work. New Energy susp bushings, maybe revalve my KW coilovers with increased spring rates and I want to flat panel the bottom (90%) of the car with Aluminum coated with Lizard skin for sound control.
I will get the motor replaced next weekend (early September), just before MM has his next tunning session (Tues september 6th). With the bigger injectors I will need a new base tune.
Aiming to get things togeather and sorted out in time for a some September track days. I would love to attend a track day september 7th, but I think it woud be better to aim for Buttonwillow September 17/18.
After I get all the powertrain issues worked out, I will be moving on to some more suspension and aero work. New Energy susp bushings, maybe revalve my KW coilovers with increased spring rates and I want to flat panel the bottom (90%) of the car with Aluminum coated with Lizard skin for sound control.
10-29-2011, 01:53 PM
#121
Update.
Took the car to buttonwillow on Sept 17/18th. The procharger and motor ran great and pulls hard but still runs hot. My issue is with engine oil temps. The 1 larger oil cooler on the drivers side is not able to keep temps down for more then 5 minutes of WOT driving with 100 deg track temps. ECT's start around 190 just cruising around the pattock, 200 for a warm up lap and 210 for a full wot lap but slowly work there way up to 230 once the oil gets over 250. As the oil passes 260 (yes I know it hot) the ect passed 230 and I had to take a cool down lap.
Solution:
I bought a setrab 50-619-7612 series 6 19 row oil cooler (ebay $70 delivered). Core measures 11 1/18" X 5 3/4" x 2" and has m22 fittings, bought m22 to an12 adaptors. With both factory oil cooler openings in use and the interooler already blocking most of the radiator, I came up with a unique way to mount and duct the cooler.
I will mount the oil cooler flat on the underpanel about 4" behind the bottom edge of the mazdaspeed bumper. I will use louvers on both sides of the cooler to force air in (open toward air flow) and pull air out (open away from air flow) of the cooler. The cooler will be plumbed in sequence with my current cooler. The oil will pass through the setrab cooler and then the fluidyne.
Instead of cutting up my stock plastic underpanel, I am having an aluminum one built with the louvers attached. I will also have louvers placed behind the radiator for air to escape.
I am also adding some ducting around the intercooler to improve air flow through the intercooler and to the radiator.
I am really hoping this is the final solution for temps.
Took the car to buttonwillow on Sept 17/18th. The procharger and motor ran great and pulls hard but still runs hot. My issue is with engine oil temps. The 1 larger oil cooler on the drivers side is not able to keep temps down for more then 5 minutes of WOT driving with 100 deg track temps. ECT's start around 190 just cruising around the pattock, 200 for a warm up lap and 210 for a full wot lap but slowly work there way up to 230 once the oil gets over 250. As the oil passes 260 (yes I know it hot) the ect passed 230 and I had to take a cool down lap.
Solution:
I bought a setrab 50-619-7612 series 6 19 row oil cooler (ebay $70 delivered). Core measures 11 1/18" X 5 3/4" x 2" and has m22 fittings, bought m22 to an12 adaptors. With both factory oil cooler openings in use and the interooler already blocking most of the radiator, I came up with a unique way to mount and duct the cooler.
I will mount the oil cooler flat on the underpanel about 4" behind the bottom edge of the mazdaspeed bumper. I will use louvers on both sides of the cooler to force air in (open toward air flow) and pull air out (open away from air flow) of the cooler. The cooler will be plumbed in sequence with my current cooler. The oil will pass through the setrab cooler and then the fluidyne.
Instead of cutting up my stock plastic underpanel, I am having an aluminum one built with the louvers attached. I will also have louvers placed behind the radiator for air to escape.
I am also adding some ducting around the intercooler to improve air flow through the intercooler and to the radiator.
I am really hoping this is the final solution for temps.
12-28-2011, 06:26 AM
#122
Big shift on the Procharger build.
I blew another motor. After Buttonwillow the vacuum was down at idle, car was harder to start and it did not feel as strong despite my GPS MAF readings were maxing out.
Went to thunderhill, first session cut short, 3rd lap of the second session and the motor was missing above 7K rpm. Felt like a rich miss fire and then somethig let go in the rear rotor. Braught it in and I immediately knew what it was but checked plugs, wires and compression anyways. Loaded up and went home early.
I already had my last victim sitting in my garage so I emailed Brian with BDC again and we made a plan to get my motor Street Ported and returned to me in about 4 weeks.
Motor made it back on time but I was a week late installing it. Got it running on Christmas Eve despite some drama. Started breaking in the motor on Christmas day (Merry Christmas too me). Managed to put 350 miles on it before tuning with MM. A couple of calibrations down and the Engine is feeling strong. Still lean in spots and rich in others but were working on that. Pulling over 275 GPS of air from 8K RPM's and up.
More details to come, not sur eif I am done with FI but I am done for now. I am tired of blowing Engines, I just want to enjoy my track days, improve my driving and work on other things.
Custom KW V3's, 4.7 gears, OS Gilken LSD, underpaneling, weight removal and a racing cage are all on the list.
I blew another motor. After Buttonwillow the vacuum was down at idle, car was harder to start and it did not feel as strong despite my GPS MAF readings were maxing out.
Went to thunderhill, first session cut short, 3rd lap of the second session and the motor was missing above 7K rpm. Felt like a rich miss fire and then somethig let go in the rear rotor. Braught it in and I immediately knew what it was but checked plugs, wires and compression anyways. Loaded up and went home early.
I already had my last victim sitting in my garage so I emailed Brian with BDC again and we made a plan to get my motor Street Ported and returned to me in about 4 weeks.
Motor made it back on time but I was a week late installing it. Got it running on Christmas Eve despite some drama. Started breaking in the motor on Christmas day (Merry Christmas too me). Managed to put 350 miles on it before tuning with MM. A couple of calibrations down and the Engine is feeling strong. Still lean in spots and rich in others but were working on that. Pulling over 275 GPS of air from 8K RPM's and up.
More details to come, not sur eif I am done with FI but I am done for now. I am tired of blowing Engines, I just want to enjoy my track days, improve my driving and work on other things.
Custom KW V3's, 4.7 gears, OS Gilken LSD, underpaneling, weight removal and a racing cage are all on the list.
Good luck with the new motor! Looking forward to seeing the results once you get it dialed in 
12-28-2011, 10:35 PM
#125
Highway are you running a large single oil cooler or 2 oil coolers? any chance i can see your latest underpanel tray? Im looking into running a larger single oil cooler on one side and a secondary radiator on the opposite side of the oem oil cooler position. Mine will be occasional hot lapping days. Reading up there are soo many mixed reviews on larger single oil coolers, looking foward to seeing what your thoughts and current setup is. BTW I have my eye on the setrab 25 row 7"x11" being i have a larger oil cooler opening with the INGS bumper.