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Logalinipoo's Custom turbo build.

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Old 10-16-2014, 02:59 PM
  #101  
Driving my unreliable rx8
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Well i tried a little today with no luck im probably going to swap the stock rail in next.

Today i pulled the fuel temp sensor, with the fuel rail and stock reds. I uninstalled the cobb and still have the same positive fuel trim. So its nit the tune or the temp sensor.

My only other guess is the hose to the fuel rail or wiring. Ill get it I'm just tired of all the work.

On the plus side the turbo is in transit to comp turbo for a rebuild and a smaller billet cold side. Im thinking 60 or 62.

It is currently ct3-6765 the cold side is 67x84. I can go to 62x84. Or a 60x76 will reduce the rotating mass even more for a better spool up, at least thats what I'm thinking.
Attached Thumbnails Logalinipoo's Custom turbo build.-image-1330955001.jpg  
Old 10-16-2014, 03:21 PM
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Fuel temp sensor?
Old 10-16-2014, 03:25 PM
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Driving my unreliable rx8
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Just temporary. To see if the dw300 really heats up the fuel or not. Ive seen a lot of posts about it but not any actual information. I figured you'd like it anyway mr fuel cooling.

If i see a significant temp increase i might add fuel cooling.
Old 10-16-2014, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
Well i tried a little today with no luck im probably going to swap the stock rail in next.

Today i pulled the fuel temp sensor, with the fuel rail and stock reds. I uninstalled the cobb and still have the same positive fuel trim. So its nit the tune or the temp sensor.

.
Fuel pressure is fuel pressure .......... wouldn't mater what shape it was so long as the pressure is there .
Old 10-16-2014, 03:34 PM
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I still have 58 psi at idle under the hood, But that is before the hose and fuel rail. Im thinking there might be a blockage in the hose. Maybe from installing the hose ends.
Old 10-16-2014, 03:40 PM
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Is there a pic of this fuel rail setup here?
Old 10-16-2014, 03:48 PM
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I thought there was, but I'm not finding it. Let me look I know I had some pics somewhere

I cant find them ill get some posted up when i tear back into it.

The rail is just a cheap goodspeed fuel rail and i used -6 hoses

Last edited by logalinipoo; 10-16-2014 at 04:02 PM.
Old 10-16-2014, 04:06 PM
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I just wonder if not having the fuel rail pulsation damper would be causing and issue? I don't think so but IIRC it is recommended to have one on engines that exceed 8000RPM and more than 5 injectors.
Old 10-16-2014, 04:13 PM
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Driving my unreliable rx8
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It could be. I sourced one so if the hose is clear and it goes away stock ill probably order one.

The afr is pretty stable it just has a huge fuel trim. It has good power also so i do t think
Its wiring.
Old 10-19-2014, 04:00 PM
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What vacuum you seeing in the IM at idle? A vac leak could've been introduced during fitting. Unmetered air would cause crazy trims one way at idle and then the other way under boost.

Edit: Just re-read your previous post. Vac seems pretty low (although same as before) - should be closer to 16-20psi when warm, and 24ish when cold?

Also, I had real bad trims when I refitted my intake with a dislodged screen pre-MAF. Air density across the MAF was inconsistent and caused wild trims (more so when air was moving faster than idle). Still worth checking tubing pre-MAF as it's quick.

Last edited by JimmyBlack; 10-19-2014 at 04:11 PM.
Old 10-19-2014, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyBlack
What vacuum you seeing in the IM at idle? A vac leak could've been introduced during fitting. Unmetered air would cause crazy trims one way at idle and then the other way under boost.

Edit: Just re-read your previous post. Vac seems pretty low (although same as before) - should be closer to 16-20psi when warm, and 24ish when cold?

Also, I had real bad trims when I refitted my intake with a dislodged screen pre-MAF. Air density across the MAF was inconsistent and caused wild trims (more so when air was moving faster than idle). Still worth checking tubing pre-MAF as it's quick.


JB is spot on on both counts .... It's very easy to tear a seal when installing the injectors .. Suggest you (Lpoo) pull it all apart and check for tears etc .
Old 10-20-2014, 04:37 AM
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Jimmy, You're thinking of "HG not PSI. Double PSI to get "HG. so I'm running 12-14" HG Which I agree is low, but it's been there before the error. I'm also tracking the same 5 g/sec at Idle.

I will take a good look at all the seals and just replace them either way. I'm so aggrivated at the moment every time I look at it. I just walk away. It's driving good at the moment. So I'll probably wait until I get the turbo back.

The turbo is in the mail to comp for a rebuild. (I bought it used). I'm also having it downgraded to a Billet ct-3 6065 ball bearing. It is currently 67 on the cold side.
Old 10-20-2014, 10:06 AM
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12-14 is really low.
Old 10-20-2014, 11:29 AM
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9k, What do you normally see? Mazdamaniac said its common for ported engines.
Old 10-20-2014, 11:33 AM
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Oh your engine is ported? I am ported and I see 15-16 at hot idle.
Old 10-20-2014, 02:09 PM
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Hot idle I'm seeing 12-15 inHg but as I stated in a previous post that is with the shitty GReddy hot air intake and as my temp rises my vacuum drops. New cold air piping is on the way but with winter knocking on the front door I wont be able to note any changes now until I get a retune when the snow melts in 2015
Old 11-05-2014, 09:17 PM
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I haven't attacked the problems yet but It'll be happening soon.

Comp turbo has great customer service I highly recommend them. They offered to rush my rebuild(for free) I told them it was no hurry since they had sema coming up. I talked to them yesterday about what to do and it shipped back to me today.

I've got a Billet CT2-6065BB Balanced with new bearings and seals coming my way. I did downgrade. There is no flow penalty due to the smaller housing size and it's over 3/4" smaller. That'll give me another 3/8" clearance from the manifold and it should help get the outlet tube on there. I haven't had the AR confirmed yet, but the guy said it looks like a 0.63 he's going to give me a definite on it in the box.

Look out Slash, Your spooltastic response inspired me. A little smaller AR and bigger exhaust wheel might do me well. I'm hoping at least.

The sales guy at Comp turbo said their turbo is good for 120 PSI surge, but if I try to keep it under 100PSI then it should never have a problem. They also said IF it starts to smoke just back it off a little. I told him about the regulator system and I was planing on running 60 PSI he said that 100 is just fine and there was no reason to run it down at 60.
Old 11-06-2014, 07:35 AM
  #118  
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Haha spooltastic

I was pretty happy with CompTurbo as well. IIRC they had my turbo to me around a week after I ordered it, and that was even with me changing my mind on the turbine a/r, which the were happy to accommodate. No problems whatsoever.

Awesome stuff, can't wait to see this thing boosting! And you are doing it right, when you get aggravated just take a step back
Old 12-04-2014, 11:12 PM
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Well I am still seeing the injector problem, I can't get it figured out. I went back to the stock fuel rail with reds. Then went up to yellows, I greased everything well then putting the intake back togther. Vac is still holding the same. So I am pretty sure I don't have a vac leak or if I do it's a bad manifold.

It only appears at IDLE so I am thinking of tuning it out and seeing if I develop any cruise LT Fuel trims.

I've got quite a few pics to upload, but I have really bad internet right now so I'll get them up when I can.
Old 12-04-2014, 11:40 PM
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What injector issues, large +/- STFT?
Old 12-05-2014, 01:01 AM
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Stft is +18-21 instantly after resetting the system. If i let it idle long enough it moves to ltft.

Stock rail with reds and stock style tune.

Or yellows on stock rail with stock style tune adjusted for yellows. both scaling and latency.

When i apply the maf scale i had previously it drops 3%
Old 12-05-2014, 07:24 AM
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Is it driveable? Is it possible that this will plane out over time as the reset computer "re-learns" itself? I can't say any exact values but every year when I pull my car out of winter storage and reset my ECU i know my fuel trims are a bit wonky for the first few drives until they level out (and thats just from storage, you made multiple large scale changes to your engine).... excess backfiring, a few slower, stinky, overly rich fire ups, etc until it gets back to steady state if you will

Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-05-2014 at 07:28 AM.
Old 12-05-2014, 09:00 AM
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Slash had similar issues he found a cracked rubber cap. And the cold weather loosened some couplers so he had two vacumme leaks.
Old 12-05-2014, 09:20 AM
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Yeah we made a boost leak tester out of a smoke machine. It is the best thing ever.
Old 12-05-2014, 11:09 AM
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It is very drivable and with each change ive tuned trims to zero.

The only real change i have now is the turbo sitting on the exhaust manifold but its not piped into the intake.


So that should not affect the fuel trims.

9k , when ate you going to bring it up here to find my leak? I do have a fitting to pressure test my turbo piping, but every time I've run it( on a really small compressor) i cant get the system to hold pressure. It flows out if the tail pipe. Ive been tempted to weld on a blank plate to my down pipe just to test it.


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