logalinipoo

Good box is installed. I cut a pice from an old broken box and used epoxy to glue it to the face plate.

slash128

Nice work man, looking good. You ran your wires like I did, through the stick shift hole. I used a split loom and zip tied all the gauge wires to the existing wire harness that runs up the tranny to the engine bay. Beats trying to pull it all through the hole by the clutch, especially with a battery cable running through there...

logalinipoo

I brought my gauge wires through the plastic just below the heater core. I drilled a hole in the plastic there and put a grommit on it.

slash128

Ahh, in some of th photos it looked like they were coming thru the trans hole.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Great idea on the Goodbox

logalinipoo

Well the egt and lc1 come through the trans hole, but the others are with the heater core.

Thanks 9k was that a sarx thing i copied?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah it's good to see someone else doing it that way, I really like it. Houstonrx8er and I put leds in our to illuminate the buttons better.

logalinipoo

I like that is looks stock and like decoration. If you hadn't been in a rx8 or 2 you wouldn't know any better. Plug I have my ashtray still. Just to store random junk and coins, but it's still there.

logalinipoo

Fuel rail is in and holding pressure well. Here's my turbo drain tube. Its 5/8 copper tubbing with #10 fittings(the biggest i could find for the turbo. It Slopes down the whole way to the oil pan and is as short as possible. I messed up and my bending spring got stuck on it. Oh well. I used a fitting screwed into my oil pan plug. I drilled it to give as much flow as safely possible. Im hopping ill be okay with it. I think the flow control and regulator will keep it from pressuring up and blowing seals if it does not drain fast enough. Wow i didn't leave much room for making the drain tube up. I might have to pull the turbo just to tighten it. I made a little more progress on the engine mount. The piece that bolts to the block is cut and bolted in place. I just have to make the cross member and get it bolted in place.

hoosier1104

iTrader: (2)

Looks good man. Looking forward to the under tray measurements though.

logalinipoo

Thanks man, I haven't forgotten you. I went to work the 19-22 then My wife had surgery tuesday so i haven't gotten that deep into it. Ive been working on drilling and tapping the flow control today so i don't have to use tee's Also the 1" crowfoot came in today so i can tighten the oil drain line. Ill probably be jacking it up for that soon.

logalinipoo

I modified the vonberg flow control valve. To shorten it and save some room under hood. Then mounted it to the bottom of the filler neck and ran oil lines.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Don't quite get how that will work ......Looks to me like you are measuring oil pressure as it dumps oil into the sump ..............
Are those three ports at one end all open to eachother ?

logalinipoo

Yes they're all open to each other.

Oil goes in one side, then 0.75 gpm goes out the other to the turbo. If there us too much pressure it gets relieved back to the sump. That little fitting is a adjustable pop off.

Im measuring pressure to make sure it is set right I'm aiming for 45ish psi.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

So the fitting going back to the sump is a popoff ? That makes sense ... got it now

Nifty !

logalinipoo

Yeap, its actually a swadgelock adjustable cracking pressure check valve 3-50 psi rated. I set it to crack at 35 and with high air flow it goes into the. 40's. I'm just trying to find a way around the whole what size restrictor to use.

Fingers crossed this gives me plenty of oil without blowing out seals.

logalinipoo

Ok hoosier heres some good pics of the sheet metal air duct. The base plate is 29" across and 17 front to back. Add 1/4" to the sides and back for folds. So 29.5"x20

I have a csf radiator and built a little bracket to hold it right at the base. I did curve the front of the bottom panel so it will need to be 19-20 inches to start. Just cut to fit using the bumper as a template. I bought some little metal clips for the front bumper

The side panels are 10" high 17" long. Add 1/4" to all sides for folds. And 2-3" on the back so 14.5 x 20.5 before folding. They are folded to meet the side of the radiator. No need for foam. I left holes at the bottom on either side to let out water.

Place a 1/4" fd on the edge of the sheet metal to give it a lot more strength. I used a 2" lip on top and bottom of the sides that gave me room to attach it to the crash bar and attach the bottom sheet.

3/8 self taping sheet metal screws to hold it all together. I even screwed it into the sides of the radiatir.

logalinipoo

Heres my engine mount all fitted up. The part that is tie wrapped was to fit it. Ive got one bolt through there now but my charger couldn't keep up so ill finish that tomorrow.

I decided to install the turbo piping. That one off the top of the turbo was a pita. I didn't get far today had a bunch of interruptions. Cranked the car a little and I'm not seeing any fuel or oil leaks. I had to deviate a little on the turbo piping. I dont seam to have enough 3" couplers. I thought i ordered extra too. Ill get it ordered and put together what i can in the mean time.

logalinipoo

A few newer pics .

slash128

How's it goin'?

logalinipoo

I have a issue causing +40 combined fuel trim. Im trying to get that figured out. I decided to have the turbo rebuilt while i try to get this figured out so i pulled it yesterday. I'll be sending it to comp turbo monday.

Until then I'm a little disgusted with the fuel trims so i haven't dealt with it today.

Any ideas.

The problem came when i installed the fuel rail and swapped my red injectors for yellows. I swapped back to my reds and it did not change.

At idle Stft is 18, ltft is 22. Maf is 5( the same as it was before i swapped injectors.) manifold vac is 6-7psi( the same as pre turbo also.)

Since vac and maf are the same i am thinking it is with wiring.

JimmyBlack

Or fuel delivery system. When you put original injectors back in and the issue persisted, was your new fuel rail still installed at that point?

logalinipoo

Yes it is still using the aftermarket fuel rail. I doubt that is the problem but i figured ill go back stock and see if that changes anything.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

More than likely it is in the tune. And why did you swap the reds for yellows in the first place?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You must have messed up the injector install ......perservere with the yellows ..... Did you rescale them and redo the latency tables properly ?