Got my new turbo tune, and now my car sounds like a Subaru (w/ video)
01-12-2013, 11:32 AM
#1
Got my new turbo tune, and now my car sounds like a Subaru (w/ video)
Well, well, well.... I'm back with another problem. Got my latest tune from MM and installed it and car was running great. I was finally able to go WOT and reach redline. Well I was on the autobahn in boost and then the car just seemed to lose power... The exhaust note changed (as if I was missing an ignition cycle) and the car could not accelerate and could just barely keep a steady speed. I came to a stop and the engine died right away, and would not restart.
Towed it to the shop... checked for spark coming out the wires, changed the spark plugs, checked for boost leaks, did the deflood procedures, cleaned the MAF, and engine still will not start. Finally decided to tow strap the car and get it up to speed then slip the clutch, and was finally able to get the engine turning under its own power but I have to blip the throttle to keep it alive and it will not idle on it's own. Drove the car around the block a few times and the car is extremely weak and just doesnt have any power.
It almost feels like (and sounds like) the engine is missing a cycle. I have spark coming out all 4 and fuel... what else do I need to look for ? I was also able to start my Accessport and get a datalog while the car was running, its not a very steady log since I was blipping the throttle most of the time.
Datalog: datalog1.csv
Below is a video of how the car is running now after we tow strapped it to get it started.
Towed it to the shop... checked for spark coming out the wires, changed the spark plugs, checked for boost leaks, did the deflood procedures, cleaned the MAF, and engine still will not start. Finally decided to tow strap the car and get it up to speed then slip the clutch, and was finally able to get the engine turning under its own power but I have to blip the throttle to keep it alive and it will not idle on it's own. Drove the car around the block a few times and the car is extremely weak and just doesnt have any power.
It almost feels like (and sounds like) the engine is missing a cycle. I have spark coming out all 4 and fuel... what else do I need to look for ? I was also able to start my Accessport and get a datalog while the car was running, its not a very steady log since I was blipping the throttle most of the time.
Datalog: datalog1.csv
Below is a video of how the car is running now after we tow strapped it to get it started.
01-12-2013, 11:49 AM
#2
Towed it to the shop... checked for spark coming out the wires, changed the spark plugs, checked for boost leaks, did the deflood procedures, cleaned the MAF, and engine still will not start. Finally decided to tow strap the car and get it up to speed then slip the clutch, and was finally able to get the engine turning under its own power but I have to blip the throttle to keep it alive and it will not idle on it's own. Drove the car around the block a few times and the car is extremely weak and just doesnt have any power.
Sounds like its running on one rotor... check engine compression.
.
Last edited by firecran; 01-12-2013 at 11:52 AM.
01-12-2013, 12:31 PM
#4
Bad compression on a Renesis means blown apex... doesnt blown apex mean pieces in the engine ? Because when I was doing the deflood with the spark plugs out there was none of that business going on..
01-12-2013, 12:32 PM
#5
01-12-2013, 12:36 PM
#6
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 239 Likes
on
109 Posts
This has a few wrong assumptions, namely there are several different ways to lose compression. Even the methods which involve losing one or more seals doesn't preclude the possibility of the seal(s) getting ejected out of the exhaust port successfully.
01-12-2013, 12:45 PM
#7
Forgot to mention I got a few engine codes:
P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
EPS
U1900
U2023
RKE
U1900
The P0336 code has shown up in the past... I've resetted the code and it would not pop back up for a long time. The rest of the codes are just communication errors I am assuming from during research (not a problem).
P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
EPS
U1900
U2023
RKE
U1900
The P0336 code has shown up in the past... I've resetted the code and it would not pop back up for a long time. The rest of the codes are just communication errors I am assuming from during research (not a problem).
01-24-2013, 02:25 AM
#13
That's what mine sounded when I lost compression with my original factory engine last June. The engine bogged in the freeway and the RPM couldn't maintain idle or even rev more than 4,000 RPM. It stalled but I coasted and popped the clutch in third gear as I exited and just kept my foot on the throttle at 1,500 RPM and drove it in the city streets like that for about three miles home.
01-26-2013, 03:33 PM
#14
SMH yes I blame myself for blowing the engine... I was just a little too excited after receiving my latest tune from MM. BUT you live, learn, UPGRADE, and hope to never do it again. I was extremely discouraged at first, being overseas with limited rotary support. But Javier20b is a member that recently moved to Germany, he is a rotary builder with 15 years of rotary experience. So I will be rebuilding my engine with some stronger seals and doing some porting.. hoping to come back better and stronger than ever. I hope to view this experience as a "blessing in disguise". 
01-26-2013, 04:15 PM
#15
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Stronger seals? Did your buddy tell you about those. Did you get this engine compression tested prior to going turbo? Get it rebuilt by someone with experience rebuilding a renesis. What works on a previous version of the 13b does not necessarily work on a Renesis.
01-26-2013, 04:21 PM
#16
My engine had 26k on it when it blew... I have no doubt that my engine was strong before I went turbo. Before the engine blew on the autobahn, I had noticed on my boost gauge that I was hitting 13-15 psi so there may be a wastegate adjustment issue that I will need to fix. Stronger seals is a preventative measure... I've researched and I know that with a proper tune the stock seals should be all that you need. If you search "Savannah" on the forum you will see some of the work done by Javier20b. I am confident that I am in good hands.
01-29-2013, 06:02 PM
#18
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah mileage has little to do with it, my first engine died at 22,000 miles. IIRC your car sat for a couple of years right? Either way that is way too much boost for a stock engine, especially if it was a reman.
01-30-2013, 02:04 PM
#20
01-30-2013, 02:20 PM
#22
He's tuned many rotaries but he usually uses Haltechs or other standalones. I've downloaded the ATR, so I'm gonna let him take a look at it and see if he can work with it. He may not have the "rep" that you TX guys have on the forum, but I think I'm in good hands 
.
Thread w/ some of his work--> https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...thread-233442/
. Thread w/ some of his work--> https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...thread-233442/
01-30-2013, 02:36 PM
#23
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
We have a rep but I'm not sure if it's a good one, 
Tuning an RX-7 on an old EK6 Haltech almost has nothing to do with tuning a turbo renny using a Cobb and ATR. Which is why most RX-7 tuners don't tune RX-8's. Having someone learn on your car is a gamble, especially doing so on a fresh engine. I would leave the tuning to MM if you already paid for his services.
Tuning an RX-7 on an old EK6 Haltech almost has nothing to do with tuning a turbo renny using a Cobb and ATR. Which is why most RX-7 tuners don't tune RX-8's. Having someone learn on your car is a gamble, especially doing so on a fresh engine. I would leave the tuning to MM if you already paid for his services.