Fuel Pump Solution - All Failure Modes
07-19-2014, 08:39 PM
#781
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Anyway , I just cut mine to bits . Turns out the statement is completely WRONG !
If you had figured out how it worked you wouldn't have drawn that incorrect conclusion (pump failure) . More than likely it was blocked fuel filters that were the issue.
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07-24-2014, 05:35 PM
#784
Great info in this thread, after reading it along with some others, I went ahead and ordered the DW200 from BHR.
As for my problem, it was pretty specific.
Fuel cut after hard left turn at a track. Temps were over 90. I filled up the tank and it still did it.
Simulating on the street is not possible as I would accelerate to about 100, hard brake before left hand 180 degree turn followed by hard (well its stock) acceleration up to what should be over 100. It would get to 80 before cutting out to 76 or 78 then back up to 80.
As for my problem, it was pretty specific.
Fuel cut after hard left turn at a track. Temps were over 90. I filled up the tank and it still did it.
Simulating on the street is not possible as I would accelerate to about 100, hard brake before left hand 180 degree turn followed by hard (well its stock) acceleration up to what should be over 100. It would get to 80 before cutting out to 76 or 78 then back up to 80.
08-09-2014, 09:34 AM
#785
Just wanted to post my results.
I upgraded to a series 2 pump and assembly. I was on track last night, stayed on until one tick below a 1/4 tank when I finished my last session. No fuel cut or any problems at all.
I should have done the series 2 assembly a long time ago.
I upgraded to a series 2 pump and assembly. I was on track last night, stayed on until one tick below a 1/4 tank when I finished my last session. No fuel cut or any problems at all.
I should have done the series 2 assembly a long time ago.
09-18-2014, 07:30 PM
#786
Just did this yesterday morning. I upgraded my stock pump to a Deatschwerks DW200. Went with it over the Walboro because the failure rates on the Walboro seem to be pretty high, and I got a DW200 for an awesome deal. Not much of a huge difference but some of the vibrations I've been having with the A/C on have gone away.
Seemed like my stock pump was on the way out anyway. Make sure you guys melt the pop off cap on the Venturi valve. My torch ran out of gas and my bro took the soldering iron
ended up heating up a phillips screwdriver on the stove and used that to melt the cap and it worked like a charm. The jobs a million times easier with a fuel pump removal tool too btw! 
Seemed like my stock pump was on the way out anyway. Make sure you guys melt the pop off cap on the Venturi valve. My torch ran out of gas and my bro took the soldering iron
ended up heating up a phillips screwdriver on the stove and used that to melt the cap and it worked like a charm. The jobs a million times easier with a fuel pump removal tool too btw!
04-16-2015, 04:00 AM
#787
Yellow looks faster.
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I think my pump is on the way out.. After 40 minutes on the highway the car sounds more "put put" when I get to the city and feels generally sluggish. Thinking if I should just replace the whole thing OEM or just the pump itself..
04-16-2015, 11:25 PM
#790
Yellow looks faster.
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Team. I feel like I read and read solutions to all these symptoms my car has and get so many possible solutions. Just trying to get more accurate places to start before I start replacing things.
04-16-2015, 11:29 PM
#791
SARX Legend
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This is a bad idea IMO unless you have a low mileage assembly and you are putting a higher flow pump in for going forced induction or something. A new complete pump assembly is cheap, why only replace one part of it. I never understand putting a brand new pump into a high mileage assembly.
04-17-2015, 12:23 AM
#793
Yellow looks faster.
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9k that's what I thought. The whole thing is around $300 from mazmart. not exactly cheap for me, but affordable.
Team, I will look into a proper diagnosis.
Team, I will look into a proper diagnosis.
04-20-2015, 07:52 PM
#796
You have to disassemble it, silly.
If you want to install a higher flow pump for FI then the Deatschwerks DW65c is a direct fit. There are also Denso options too. It is also replaceable and doesn't require the discharge line modification like the S1.
The relief valve is self-contained in a metal housing and replaceable too. It doesn't require any modification like on the S1 relief valve when installing a high flow pump.
Installing an S2 fuel pump assy on an S1 does require modifying the siphon hose and fuel pump discharge hoses to work with it. See the DIY thread (for those not familiar with this already)
.
If you want to install a higher flow pump for FI then the Deatschwerks DW65c is a direct fit. There are also Denso options too. It is also replaceable and doesn't require the discharge line modification like the S1.
The relief valve is self-contained in a metal housing and replaceable too. It doesn't require any modification like on the S1 relief valve when installing a high flow pump.
Installing an S2 fuel pump assy on an S1 does require modifying the siphon hose and fuel pump discharge hoses to work with it. See the DIY thread (for those not familiar with this already)
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-20-2015 at 07:54 PM.
05-05-2015, 02:43 PM
#797
Yellow looks faster.
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I can't find where I had been reading about the Fuel Pump replacements. Was talking about ordering from Rock Auto and the Airtex pump vs OEM. Anyone have the Airtex replacement? Thoughts?
05-05-2015, 02:52 PM
#798
SARX Legend
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I have bought two Airtex pumps from Advance Auto and both were OEM Aaram pumps in an OEM assembly. But, a guy recently got an Airtex pump from Rock Auto and it was different so I'm not sure why they have different versions and why the Airtex units I have bought have been OEM assemblies.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-05-2015 at 02:55 PM.
05-26-2015, 07:44 PM
#800
THE DIFINITIVE FIX FOR FUEL CUT ON HIGH G LEFTS AND ANY RANDOM LOSS OF FUEL PRESSURE IN A LOWER END HP BOOSTED, STREET, LIGHT TRACK DUTY CAR IS TO ONLY USE A BRAND NEW SLIGHTLY MODDED TO FIT SERIES 2 FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY. DO NOT PUT HIGH FLOW PUMPS IN A SERIES 1 ASSEMBLY IT DOES NOT WORK. I HAVE DONE IT TWICE NOW AND IT STILL DOESN'T WORK!
I also have done the DW200 pump swap and haven't experienced the results I expected. If I am below 7/8 tank when running an autocross going around high G left corners the fuel pressure will "drop off the table" as I accelerate out of the corners.
Guess we should have listened to Olddragger all along. He probably posted on 10 different occasions in this thread that an S2 pump assembly worked for him with excellent results.