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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 03-23-2015, 01:18 PM
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I didn't do a DIY, but I have some pics. I did it before Austin came up with the kit using the twin wire. I have one power going to the front and two grounds in the trunk.



Crappy pic of one of the grounds.




I can't find a pic of the positive distribution block up front but it is mounted on the frame rail under neath the fuse block.
Old 03-23-2015, 02:29 PM
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Talked to Austin today, he should be sending me an invoice for a kit within the next day or two.

Was just looking for some pics etc... to get an idea of how I want to run it.
Old 03-23-2015, 02:39 PM
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His install is a lot cleaner than mine, he made a lot of improvements over how Pelch and I did it, we sort of winged it as usual,
Old 03-23-2015, 02:44 PM
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Yup, that plus intake tray plus radium tank should set up my bay for the foreseeable future.
Old 03-23-2015, 02:48 PM
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But my setup is sound and works perfectly, I even have a pig tail on the battery for my float charger. But to make it even cleaner, I just ordered this:


Old 03-23-2015, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Crappy pic of one of the grounds.


.
What does it look like now with all the rust on it ? I really have a hard time believing that doing that makes any improvement to the ground whatsoever . In my mind the bolt does the grounding through the threads and it isn't necessary for the paint to be taken off the bodywork
Old 03-23-2015, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
What does it look like now with all the rust on it ? I really have a hard time believing that doing that makes any improvement to the ground whatsoever . In my mind the bolt does the grounding through the threads and it isn't necessary for the paint to be taken off the bodywork
Maybe not, but I was told to do it by a guy who wires up equipment on armored military vehicles for a living. And it has been this way for over a year, no rust what so ever. But really rust is a non issue where I live, my car is 11 years old and I can't think of a spot of rust on it anywhere.
Old 03-23-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Maybe not, but I was told to do it by a guy who wires up equipment on armored military vehicles for a living. And it has been this way for over a year, no rust what so ever. But really rust is a non issue where I live, my car is 11 years old and I can't think of a spot of rust on it anywhere.
I'm not saying I know any better from experience . Just that it doesn't seem logical to me ... that's all .

I would imagine your military buddy has to deal with a spray painter who does a great job at filling the thread holes with paint ..............

Last edited by Brettus; 03-23-2015 at 03:50 PM.
Old 03-25-2015, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I take it that you must also enjoy watching molasses drip on a cold day at the North Pole ...
Never knew u had a sense of humour.
Very good.
Carry on.
Old 03-25-2015, 06:29 PM
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they mostly go everyone's head, kind of like this one ....


Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Originally Posted by Brettus
I know someone who could help
Does he go by the initials "WW"?

(think MM down-under .... )
Old 03-27-2015, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I didn't do a DIY, but I have some pics. I did it before Austin came up with the kit using the twin wire. I have one power going to the front and two grounds in the trunk.



Crappy pic of one of the grounds.




I can't find a pic of the positive distribution block up front but it is mounted on the frame rail under neath the fuse block.

9K Thats not a good earth setup, that looks like you have connected a 8-10mm terninal under a small 6mm earth bolt. You should be using a 8-10mm bolt for that size terminal, otherwise you may find over time that vibration could work it loose.
Also it looks like you have used an earth point on a panel which is not a chassis point, only a spot welded panel, better to weld a earth point directly to the chassis.

The removal of paint to give a better earth is a common thing and does help, but you do have to look at ways to stop rust or corrosion forming. The main reason for doing this is to give maximum earth contact for the size terminal, and the other reason is that a lot of factory earth mounting points have paint over the threaded area which makes a very poor earth.
Old 03-27-2015, 07:45 AM
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I also have another ground of the same gauge wire to the trunk floor. But that is a good idea about the larger bolt, I may just drill that and retap it for good measure. Thanks.

Although, electrical problems are one problem I have not had,
Old 03-27-2015, 07:59 AM
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Or just put a fender washer on it.
Old 03-27-2015, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Or just put a fender washer on it.
That is a great idea, I am sure I can find some blingy ones too.
Old 03-27-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotaman

The removal of paint to give a better earth is a common thing and does help, but you do have to look at ways to stop rust or corrosion forming. The main reason for doing this is to give maximum earth contact for the size terminal, and the other reason is that a lot of factory earth mounting points have paint over the threaded area which makes a very poor earth.
I would prefer to just tap out the hole and remove all traces of paint on the threads than create a potential rust problem ...............
Old 03-29-2015, 06:42 PM
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I might do something different with the Mazdaspeed bar but I got it in and she has been running well and the weather has been beautiful

Old 03-30-2015, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I would prefer to just tap out the hole and remove all traces of paint on the threads than create a potential rust problem ...............

But then you have just created the same rust potential in the threaded area anyway. Both can easily be sorted though. I've seen plenty of factory bolt hole areas that have been full of rust. The bolts themselves usually rust first.
There's no doubt that the area with paint removed doesn't look that good though, but these are usually done in areas that are not seen.
Old 03-31-2015, 03:23 PM
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anality is this threads major tag, so this seems appropriate (click the "greases" tab after opening):

Parker Chomerics | Conductive Adhesives - Conductive Sealants - Gap Fillers and Conductive Coatings


Old 04-02-2015, 09:30 AM
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I replaced a couple of hard lines I had made for the coolant reservoir, I believe there is a reason hard lines are not used for such things from the factory,

Old 04-02-2015, 12:29 PM
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You have a love affair with black, sir..
Old 04-02-2015, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Devil Pup
You have a love affair with black, sir..

Black hose are my favorite.
Old 04-02-2015, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Black ho's are my favorite.
Old 04-02-2015, 06:51 PM
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It all makes sense now ....

https://www.rx8club.com/frankenstein...9/#post4676912
Old 04-03-2015, 10:19 AM
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looking good, so when are you going to wire tuck?
Old 04-03-2015, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
looking good, so when are you going to wire tuck?
That is what everyone keeps asking me. I will do it when the engine blows and I get the whole car repainted, including the engine bay.


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