You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join RX8Club.com today!
For those that have added it to your whole car, how many sq. ft. did you use? I am thinking about 75 but want to make sure. I'm looking to add it to the doors, floor, roof and trunk. Also, which product did you use? I am looking at both second skin and dynamat. If you took dB or SIL levels before and after, I'd love to hear the results as well.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on RX8Club.com!
I've read good results with peel & seal. Roofing industry uses that stuff. It's cheap at $13/roll.
Asphalt is for roads and roofs! It's very heavy per square foot and unsticks itself in summer temperatures. It also smells bad. YMMV, but many many warnings on the interweb about going down this road.:
" do NOT buy asphalt based sound proofing mats or lowes/home depot "peel and seal" type roofing products for interior auto use. They will melt off in the summer heat and stink your car up with a tar smell. Once they come unglued, they are basically useless since they aren't absorbing vibrations and if placed in the door, could leave a black tar streak on your windows every time you lower them. For the same amount of labor, just buy something that was designed for auto temperatures and use."
"Testing I’ve done has convinced me that it takes between 6 and 10 times as much asphalt to achieve something approaching the same result you will get with a real vibration damper. This puts the pennies/dollars question on its head. Add the durability concerns and the huge amount of extra work required and the answer is pretty obvious."
Asphalt is for roads and roofs! It's very heavy per square foot and unsticks itself in summer temperatures. It also smells bad. YMMV, but many many warnings on the interweb about going down this road.:
" do NOT buy asphalt based sound proofing mats or lowes/home depot "peel and seal" type roofing products for interior auto use. They will melt off in the summer heat and stink your car up with a tar smell. Once they come unglued, they are basically useless since they aren't absorbing vibrations and if placed in the door, could leave a black tar streak on your windows every time you lower them. For the same amount of labor, just buy something that was designed for auto temperatures and use."
"Testing I’ve done has convinced me that it takes between 6 and 10 times as much asphalt to achieve something approaching the same result you will get with a real vibration damper. This puts the pennies/dollars question on its head. Add the durability concerns and the huge amount of extra work required and the answer is pretty obvious."
Thanks... I have spent considerable time over on the DIY Mobile Audio forum and same tests with the same results; don't use the peel and seal. I have found some good deals at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for both the vibration dampner and MLV.
Also, it was interesting to read that covering every square inch of interior with dampner is not needed. Most of the audiophiles use about 25 to 30% and then go for the MLV and see impressive results.
Also, it was interesting to read that covering every square inch of interior with dampner is not needed. Most of the audiophiles use about 25 to 30% and then go for the MLV and see impressive results.
Indeed. Since I was not willing to go the MLV route, I "overdid" the dampner. In the case of the car interior, the thought of doing 30% coverage, putting it together, then wanting to add more, requiring it all come apart again - was scarey!
Indeed. Since I was not willing to go the MLV route, I "overdid" the dampner. In the case of the car interior, the thought of doing 30% coverage, putting it together, then wanting to add more, requiring it all come apart again - was scarey!
Agreed. I am looking at the weight differences between different approaches to covering. I'm not as concerned with weight as some of the other folks here. I'd rather quite the car down a bit.
We used Dynamat on one of the cars we upgraded the sound system in. Agree with the other poster about NOT using roofing materials. Personally did that years ago in my younger days and when it got hot outside, the car smelled like a bunch of nasty roofers were in the back seat for weeks on end.
Linear Mode
