Omicron

FYI, I have done some tests to determine how good the reception of the detector is in the location high versus low position on the windshield, and I can now CONCLUSIVELY say that the reception is the SAME in either location.

The local constabulary convienantly put one of those radar-using "your speed is" trailors half way down a hill on a local road with a long, straight stretch leading up to it. Seeing this, I made several passes by it to see where my detector (Escort Solo S2 cordless) would alert. The trailor was using Ka band radar.

First, I approached the hill from some distance off, and the detector consistanly alerted at the EXACT same spot prior to reaching the hill, regardless of whether it was in my dash location (see this link for details https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/another-radar-install-8263/) or up on the sun visor. It can sense the radar from a ways off (roughly just over a mile) because even though the hill is blocking the direct signal, there is enough of it coming over because the "shadow" of the hill is pretty minimal from a distance.

Anyway, I then turned the detector off, drove up to the base of the hill, then turned it back on to see if the shadow of the hill was now great enough to block the signal, which it was... no radar detected. Then I drove up the hill, and once again, the detector sensed the radar signal at EXACTLY the same spot, regardless of where it was located, on the sun visor, or on the dash.

Interesting, no?

Sorry, some of you may have already read this in the thread mentioned above, but I moved it out here to get some discussion going. I'm getting tired of nothing but subwoofer posts in this forum. :D

Sputnik

Even if you were able to detect a difference, you have to remember how fast the vehicle is going to be going (especially if you need to slow down for radar up ahead ), and how much ground it will cover in a little amount of time. The difference will effectively be minimal. You also have to consider the fact that different hills will have different results, too.

When choosing locations on the windshield, the bigger consideration (in my opinion), is how well it can "see" around other traffic. Remember, radar will pass through the glass of vehicles in front of you. For example, when another RX8 is in front of you, a detector mounted on the dash will be blocked out by the trunk lid, while a detector mounted next to the mirror will have a clearer view through the RX8 in front. While some vehicles will be so high that even the highest mounted detector won't be able to "see" through them, the higher mounted detector will have a decent "view" through more vehicles than the lower mounted detector.

For those of us who prefer remote radar detectors, the difference in "over the hill" response is still minimal, and while they won't "see" through the windows of vehicles in front of them, if mounted properly, they will "see" below most vehicles, including semis, etc. etc. Mind you, an unobstructed view is the best, but you won't always get lucky like that. You still have to consider how well the detector can see through partial views.

Another consideration about location in the car is RF interference. There are devices in the car that will affect the radar detectors effectiveness at detecting radar. This will differ between cars, options (like a homelink mirror, NAV monitor, etc.), and radar detectors, so it's something that each person has to try out for themselves.

And remember, most radar detectors are "super heterodyne", which means that they actually transmit a weak radar signal (too weak to fall under FCC regulations, but strong enough to be detected by VG-2 detectors, and the like). Even "stealth" radar detectors operate like that, but that's another conversation. A piece of metal in the right place in front of the detector could reflect those waves, affecting the effectiveness of the detector. Not only in the distance it can detect, but also in false warnings, etc.

---jps

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The height issue is not about RADAR reception but, rather, LASER reception.
If you drive in a jurisdiction that employs LASER, you want the detector to sit high enough to pick up refracted parts of the beam as they hit the front of cars in front of you.
Generally, you don't stand much of a chance against LASER if you are the actual targeted car, so you want to grab what bits you can from down the road.
The higher the detector sits, the better shot you have of catching the beam.

Omicron

Good points all. But a sensitive detector is just as apt to pick up a reflected, or "bounced" signal as it is apt to pick up a direct signal. Something to keep in mind.

Also, my test was not on a completely unoccupied road... there WERE cars between me and the radar source in every test. Guess I should have pointed that out.

I guess my point is, put the detector where you like it... the 2 foot difference between the top and bottom of the windshield doesn't make much, if any difference at all.

I don't worry much about laser because if you've been targeted, you're pretty much caught. But if you DO catch a bounce, you have a better chance at it lower rather than higher, as laser is usually targeted at the front license plate of vehicles.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I've been quick enough to avoid a LASER ticket a few times when I was the target, but keeping low is only useful if you are the target.
I said to keep it high so that you can pick it out before you are the target.
If it is too low, you are less likely to catch some of the reflections off ot the vehicle in front of you or some of the refraction as it goes through the windshield of that vehicle or hits you outright were the cop to aim high - as they often do because the windshield is a much bigger target than the plate, if you even have one.
It is a myth that LASER needs to be pointed at a reflective surface.
Even a semi-opaque surface will do. As it was explained by a LASER cop in Rockville:
"I can aim it at your cotton T-shirt as you are walking away and get an acurate lock in 1/10 of a second at 500 feet! Try that with RADAR!".

Doctorr

Mine is mounted 'high', switched power comes from the mirror, and I have a small aluminum bracket bolted to the map light anchor points.

So the Bel sits high, above the mirror, and behind the 'sun-shade' paint on the windshield.

Excellent location for radar, and comes on with the ignition, but the laser detector window is on top, and tight against the roof liner, so chances of getting an early laser alert, reflected or otherwise, are remote.

Maybe I'll fab a bracket that puts it upside down / laser friendly?

Nah!
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doc

Omicron

Doc, can you post a close up pic of the bracket you made?

Doctorr

I went to take the picture, and remembered I chose thin lexan over the aluminum - it ain't purty.....it is the original suction cup bracket, 'pop' riveted to flexible Lexan, up to the 10mm bolt that holds up the overhead console.

You can't see it from the seats.
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doc

Omicron

Thanks Doc...

So it looks like you (a) attached the bracket to the lexan, (b) slipped the lexan between the headliner and the roof, and (c) I'm assuming you attached it to the 10mm bolt that holds up the overhead console, then put the console back in place. Correct?

Do you have any problems with rattles?

Sputnik

The actual odds of your laser detector actually picking up a refracted laser beam are very low. Odds are better that you will visually pick up a traffic cop in time before your laser detector picks up the laser.

Remember, the reason why it is very hard for you to detect laser when it is targeted at your car is because the beam is very very narrow (at normal targetting distances, less than 1,000 ft, the beam is less than 3 ft in diameter). A narrower beam means that there is much much less laser to refract. Also, since this beam is pointed at the body of the car, the body of that car will block a lot of the refracted laser from getting through to a car behind it.

---jps

Doctorr

My installation is rattle free, due to the lexan being sprung against the roof, and a little black foam pad (you can just see in the photo) to keep it off the glass. You have the sequence right, but after I removed the overhead sunglass holder, it can be done from inside. There are two bolts to the roof, I backed off the drivers side, and slid the plastic between roof and console.
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doc